Fashion & lifestyle

Identity and Ethics

Peering Behind the Veil of the Fashion Industry

When it comes to identity, the spotlight often shifts away from ethics. That seems especially evident during the Milano Fashion Week.

The recent emphasis on rediscovering lost brand identities amid transitions between creative directors is appreciable. Instead of merely chasing trends and pushing boundaries to the point of absurdity, there’s a noticeable return to celebrating heritage and the unique DNA of fashion houses. However, amidst this shift, one can’t help but question the credibility of companies that have previously indulged in such superficial games.

The discrepancy between image and reality at MFW

The day before the conclusion of Milan Fashion Week, a revealing program titled “Indovina chi viene a cena” (Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner) aired on Rai3 (you can watch it here). The journalist Sabrina Giannini and her colleague shed light on the stark reality behind sustainability claims in the fashion industry. It became evident that the more brands flaunt their sustainable slogans, the less sustainable their practices proved to be. Sustainability is 90% greenwashing! This disillusionment extends beyond just material choices and production processes. In fact, it delves into the exploitation of cheap labour through outsourcing. A practice that starkly contrasts with the Italian craftsmanship ethos.

Fashion industry, identity and ethics

While these issues aren’t new to those who follow fashion’s undercurrents, the program highlighted some uncomfortable truths. Particularly striking was the response of the influencers when questioned about their awareness of designers’ materials and sustainable practices. Their dismissive reactions have underscored a glaring disconnection between the industry’s rhetoric and its actual impact. Specifically, these girls giggled or ran away, having no means to participate in a more than necessary discussion. By the way, does the fashion industry need these kinds of people? Really? Is this what the fashion industry is about?

Furthermore, Sabrina Giannini attempted to engage with designers and fashion houses on these pressing matters. What response did they get? Silence and indifference. Despite sustainability being touted as a pivotal theme in fashion, the lack of willingness from brands to engage in open dialogue is concerning. Indeed, it raises questions about the industry’s true commitment to ethical principles beyond mere lip service.

If the aim was to reveal the stark misalignment between the industry’s professed values and its actions, then the brands, with their silence, have succeeded!

Ethics, respect for work, workers’ rights, impact on the planet. All fall under the sustainability hat. But the fashion industry is not interested in that. Dear designers, refusing to open your doors, you have succeeded in unveiling your true faces.

Ultimately, Milano Fashion Week was all about identities. But clearly, no one cares about ethics!

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In The Name of Cleanliness

Reflections on Milano Fashion Week: A Blend of Style, Substance, and Identity

Milano Fashion Week unfolds in the name of cleanliness. Style cleaning, image cleaning, and even people cleaning.

A distinct narrative emerged amidst the flurry of runway shows. One characterised by themes of neatness, precision, and authenticity. Cleanness of designs accompanied by a less showy audience. It’s a mood that permeated many collections, reflecting a need to restore brands’ identity.

Fall/Winter 24-25 Milano Fashion Week

Designers such as Fendi embraced this ethos, presenting a collection defined by immaculate tailoring and modern elegance, with precise references to its heritage.

But also Prada was in this flow: fluttering ribbons and bows contrasting with mannish blazers and maxi skirts. A lot of grey. Military silhouettes accented by marine hats, feathered or in velvet.

Antonio Marras‘ homage to Eleonora D’Arborea stood out. A historical figure who lived between 1300 and 1400, seen as a national heroine of Sardinia. Marras’ collection has exuded opulence. Elaborate silhouettes, intricate embroideries, and textured fabrics evoked a sense of bygone grandeur. The spectacle captivated audiences with its unique blend of history, theatrical performance and defile.

Our heart breaks for MM6. Unfortunately, it seemed to have lost its way. Once, it was synonymous with avant-garde innovation under the helm of Martin Margiela. This runway looked like Diesel. In fact, the collection felt disconnected from its original identity. One might say Martin Margiela is no longer there, which is true, but Margiela is still the brand name. Therefore, shouldn’t we expect a certain continuity?

FW24.25 Moschino by Adrian Appiolaza

Moschino‘s new creative director, Adrian Appiolaza, made a promising debut, infusing a sense of contemporary flair. The designer honoured the brand’s iconic codes, mixing wearable silhouettes in a game of basics and boldness. Bravo Appiolaza! Even for bringing a message of peace on the runway. In fact, we applaude designers who use their platform to support important causes.

Yet, a sense of dystopia looms in the fashion industry. Brands celebrate new collections in the name of cleanliness and restoring their identities. Yet they all feature too many outfits. Furthermore, yesterday, a major TV news report was all about vintage fashion. Entirely!

One might wonder, what are the new clothes for?

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The Futuristic Fusion of DassùYAmoroso

Exploring the Metahuman Fashion Landscape

Today, we invite you to discover the futuristic fusion of DassùYAmoroso. A pioneering force at Fashion Hub, where innovation meets imagination in a spectacle that blurs the lines between reality and the digital realm. In an era where fashion and technology intertwine more than ever, Milan Fashion Week unveils a groundbreaking collaboration that epitomizes this union.

Fashion Hub showcasing a futuristic fusion

Fashion Hub is an initiative by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana dedicated to nurturing emerging talents. Today, it provided the stage for DassùYAmoroso to showcase their vision: “Wonder of a metahuman.” Amidst the buzz of Milano Fashion Week, their presentation captivated audiences with its bold exploration of the intersection between fashion and technology.

At the helm of DassùYAmoroso are Stefano Dassù and Pasquale Amoroso, visionaries who embrace a no-gender, contemporary Street-Punk aesthetic. Freedom defines their brand, transcending conventional boundaries and celebrating diversity without compromise. With collections like “I AM WHAT I AM” and “I AM AN ALIEN,” they challenged societal norms and championed individuality as the ultimate form of expression.

DassùYAmoroso: Wonder of a meta human

DassùYAmoroso at Fashion Hub

The Italian duo isn’t new at experimentation and pushing the boundaries of innovation. Yet, it’s their latest endeavour that pushes the envelope. Through an array of innovative collaborations with tech partners, DassùYAmoroso introduces a collection inspired by the enigmatic allure of sirens. These mythical beings, reimagined as travellers in the metaverse, symbolise the bridge between worlds. A motif echoed in the brand’s seamless integration of fashion and technology.

In a conversation with Cri (founder of suite123) at Fashion Hub, Stefano and Pasquale elaborate on their groundbreaking approach:

“It’s the first time an emerging brand has forged such extensive partnerships with technology firms, effectively melding fashion and technology into a singular entity. The collection draws inspiration from the siren, a mythical figure navigating the metaverse. For us, the siren embodies a journey between realities, a fusion of two complementary worlds. Through our collaborative efforts, we’ve crafted an immersive experience, leveraging augmented reality to traverse this cross-universe landscape.”

As the fashion industry continues to evolve, the futuristic fusion of DassùYAmoroso stands at the forefront, redefining the boundaries of creativity. And paving the way for a new era of metahuman fashion.

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Creativity or Reality?

Exploring the Struggle to Sustain Fashion Amidst Economic Collapse

These days, we are here with one eye on creativity, or the dream as we like to call it in fashion, and one on the tragic reality surrounding us. In other words, we are trying to strike a balance between maintaining the fashion business and witnessing a world that falls apart.

As we are currently reviewing collections, we would love to stay focused only on the creative side of fashion. Therefore, delve into volumes and silhouettes, hand-detailings, materials and colours. Also, N.Y. Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, or lookbooks we receive. Yet, we cannot ignore the sobering reality that surrounds us. With each passing day, we are bombarded with news of industry giants facing closures, layoffs, and financial uncertainty.

creativity or reality

Navigating turbulent times

We explored the issue of the leather goods compartment in Florence, which is stuck. Consequently, 250 manufacturers are at risk of downsizing or closure. Furthermore, the latest news reveals that 26 Galeries Lafayette affiliated stores are at risk of administration under control. Also, Nike is about to fire 2% of its global workforce, so 1.500 people will lose their jobs. The data, beyond depressing, shows the picture of a collapsing system. Piece after piece. Field after field. Indeed, it is also the case of “The Body Shop,” which filed for bankruptcy, so 2.000 will be jobless. And these are just a few examples.

The fashion industry’s battle for survival

While navigating such adversity, the question is: creativity or reality? Dreams or facts? Perhaps we can ignore that the economy is crumbling. And more people are losing their jobs. But ultimately, who do brands make garments for? Who will buy expensive clothes? The truth is, the economic collapse is reshaping consumer behaviour. It might be that consumers’ preferences will shift towards lower prices, ignoring any sustainable and ethical aspects. So, the percentage of those shopping niche products will be thinner.

In light of the failure of the existing system, it becomes imperative for fashion businesses to embrace change. As we navigate the unprecedented turbulent times the fashion industry is facing, it’s important to remember that adversity breeds innovation. In times of crisis, the ability to pivot and adapt becomes essential. Therefore, fashion businesses must be open to reassessing their strategies.

And if adversity breeds innovation, now it’s the time for it!

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Florence Luxury Leather Goods in Stagnation

No Orders, Overproduction Trap Leads to Thousands on Furlough

It is concerning that Florence luxury leather goods compartment is experiencing stagnation.

Specifically, “Il Corriere Fiorentino” titled: “in Florence the luxury district is stuck: no orders from the brands and 4.000 workers on furlough.” The article says that it’s been many weeks that the area of Scandicci is on alert. The fact has been discussed for a few months but hasn’t officially emerged due to the social safety nets. However, the latest data from the syndicates exceeds the level of concern. Moreover, it seems that around Florence, warehouses are packed with unsold goods and can no longer contain them for space reasons.

What caused the leather goods stagnation in Florence?

Apparently, the perfect storm hit the luxury leather goods field: inflation and international crises reversed more on the middle class, the main target of accessible luxury leather goods. As a result, 250 companies that typically produce for luxury and affordable luxury brands are now facing the threat of downsizing or closure. On the contrary, it’s interesting to notice that the fast fashion area in Prato is thriving. There’s no sense of sustainability, but with low prices, people don’t care about being sustainable.
Also, the mechanization of production implemented to churn out more pieces in less time represents another possible cause.
Currently, there is an ongoing negotiation between the representatives of the workers’ unions and the most important international fashion brands that make production in the area.

A brief background

The Florentine leather tradition is renowned worldwide. Upon fully embracing the capitalistic framework, companies planned the relocation to China to maximise profit. Please forget the “made in” labels… Then, COVID-19 dismantled this system by interrupting production chains and long-distance delivery. So, we witnessed the re-shoring: brands repositioned production in Italy. Yet not to reward or develop artisanal production but rather for large quantities and numbers. In other words, the scheme tells a story of mass production and eternal growth. Now, the mechanism has jammed.

In conclusion, the stagnation of Florence leather goods compartment has resulted in a huge surplus of luxury and affordable handbags in storage. Perhaps the fashion industry can put down the mask of sustainability.
So, we wonder, how can brands still plan their fashion business on overproduction? How consciously do brands approach the new Fall/Winter 24-25 sales campaigns releasing numerous new items?

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