A step towards ending animal abuse or another non-binding guideline?
Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI) has recently published new guidelines banning animal fur. Is it a crucial step toward eradicating animal abuse? Could be. But the guidelines are voluntary.
Animal fur: the new guidelines
Camera Moda released new regulations on animal fur. Starting from the next edition, September 2026, brands are invited to avoid presenting garments and accessories made from animal fur during Milano Fashion Week shows.
Notice the wording: invited, not required. This is no hard ban. No fines, no disqualification, no exclusion from the official calendar. Creative and entrepreneurial autonomy? Fully intact.
Voluntary by design, but why?
At first glance, a “voluntary ban” sounds like an oxymoron. If it’s voluntary, can we call it a ban at all?
Yet context matters. CNMI’s move doesn’t emerge from nowhere. It builds on a sustainability path the association started back in 2012, and it reflects a concrete legislative fact: Italy banned fur farming as of 2022. You can’t raise animals for fur on Italian soil anymore. Imported fur, however, remains perfectly legal.
So the guidelines sit in a strange in-between space. They echo the law’s spirit without enforcing it. They push toward ethical fashion without punishing those who resist.
Let’s not forget: animal fur is not a necessity. It never was — at least not in any modern context. In 2026, with exceptional faux fur, recycled materials, and innovative textiles on the market, using real fur is an aesthetic choice, not a functional one.
Italy no longer allows animals to be farmed for fur. That’s the law. CNMI’s guidelines simply ask: if we don’t raise them here, why should we showcase them here?
What changes, really?
For many major luxury brands, nothing changes. Gucci, Prada, Armani, Valentino, Versace — they all went fur-free years ago, often ahead of any industry guideline. For them, this is validation, not transformation.
For those still using fur, the message is softer: keep your autonomy, but know the runway is no longer neutral ground. Showing fur in September 2026 won’t get a brand kicked out of Fashion Week. But it might get you noticed — and not in a good way.
That’s the real lever here: reputation. In an industry built on image, reputational pressure can sometimes move faster than legislation. CNMI is betting that fashion houses care more about public perception than about sanctions.
A step or a trick?
Let’s be honest. A genuine ban would require oversight, enforcement, consequences. This has none of that. From a purely legal standpoint, it’s barely more than a strongly worded suggestion.
But here’s where it gets familiar.
If you’ve been following Italian fashion politics lately, you’ve seen this movie before. The voluntary nature of the fur guidelines echoes something much darker: the attempt to make labour exploitation voluntary too.
Remember Article 30 of the Small and Medium Enterprises Bill? Approved by the Senate, debated in the Chamber of Deputies, it tried to exempt major fashion brands from liability for crimes committed along their production chains. Human rights abuses. Wage theft. Caporalato — the gangmaster system that reduces workers to modern slaves.
Widely described as a legal shield for luxury brands, the amendment was eventually withdrawn following protests by trade unions, workers, and the Clean Clothes Campaign. It will now return to the Senate.
But the logic behind it never left: let brands decide for themselves whether to be responsible.
Final thoughts
In conclusion, what does the Camera Moda animal fur ban mean? Is this a definitive victory against animal abuse? No. Absolute bans are still rare, and voluntary guidelines won’t stop every brand.
The fur guidelines say: we invite you to be ethical, but no pressure. Article 30 said: we invite you to monitor your supply chain, but if you don’t, don’t worry — you won’t be liable.
Same melody. Different verse.
No sanctions for fur. No liability for labour. In both cases, the system protects the brand, not the victim — whether that victim is an animal or a worker.
CNMI’s fur guidelines are not bad. They move the needle, however slightly. But they also reinforce a dangerous logic: the idea that the fashion industry should regulate itself voluntarily.
But if the fashion industry can be trusted to self-regulate on animal welfare, why not on human welfare?
Because we’ve already seen the answer. When given the chance to self-regulate on labour, major brands lobbied for a law that said: don’t hold us accountable.
LVMH-owned Italian leather maker lobbied to weaken EU anti-deforestation law while importing hides linked to forest destruction, NGO says
Greenwashing has become so pervasive that the connection between LVMH and deforestation rarely springs to mind when thinking of the luxury giant. But a new investigation by environmental NGO Global Witness suggests it should. The findings, shared exclusively with POLITICO, reveal fresh links between LVMH’s supply chain and forest destruction in South America. They also raise uncomfortable questions about who really pays the price for luxury leather.
LVMH and deforestation: The Global Witness investigation
Global Witness has uncovered evidence that Nuti Ivo — an Italian tannery group owned by LVMH — imported hides from Paraguay through suppliers allegedly tied to large-scale deforestation in the Gran Chaco forest, one of South America’s most threatened ecosystems.
The timing is critical. The EU’s anti-deforestation regulation (EUDR), approved in 2023, is designed to keep products linked to recently cleared land out of European markets. Beef, cocoa, soy, palm oil, and cattle-related products are all covered. But parts of the leather industry are now lobbying for leather to be excluded from the regulation. Their argument is that leather is only a byproduct of the meat industry and therefore should not be considered a driver of deforestation.
One of the most vocal advocates in this debate has been Fabrizio Nuti, CEO of Nuti Ivo and president of Italy’s tannery association. During discussions in the European Parliament, Nuti argued that stricter traceability requirements could become impossible for the sector to manage, especially regarding imports from South America.
Traceability gaps and deforestation links
Yet according to Global Witness, companies connected to Nuti Ivo sourced hides from Paraguayan suppliers linked to over 100,000 hectares of deforestation. Including land claimed by Indigenous communities. Trade records show that in 2025 alone, the Nuti Ivo Group imported thousands of tons of leather from Paraguay. Moreover, traceability remains alarmingly thin: the group can track only part of its hides back to individual slaughterhouses, leaving significant blind spots within the supply chain.
LVMH responded by stating that it is committed to ending deforestation across its operations and supply chains by 2025. The group also said it has never lobbied to weaken the EU deforestation regulation. After being confronted with trade data showing imports from Paraguay, the company described the quantities as “very small” and linked them to contracts that predated its acquisition of Nuti Ivo in 2023. LVMH added that discussions were underway to phase out those remaining agreements.
But environmental organisations disagree with attempts to exempt leather from the EUDR. In a joint letter to the European Commission, groups including Human Rights Watch and ClientEarth argued that excluding leather would undermine the logic of the law: if meat from cattle raised on deforested land is banned, they say, the animal’s skin should not be treated as an innocent byproduct.
Source: POLITICO, reporting on an investigation by NGO Global Witness (published April 27, 2026)
From green certifications to greenwashing: a familiar pattern
This is not an isolated case. In This is Greenwashing, when we tried to find sustainable options to print, we realised how tricky the situation is. Specifically, we acknowledged a global scandal of green labels: companies accused or convicted of environmental crimes continued to obtain and trade under “green” certifications.
“Over a 25-year period (1998–2023), at least 347 companies received sustainability certifications despite being publicly accused of illegal logging, deforestation, or fraudulent environmental practices” (ICIJ, Deforestation Inc., 2023).
In our eBook, we explore how sustainability language can sometimes coexist with business practices that tell a very different story. Especially in industries where supply chains are long, fragmented, and difficult to monitor.
The luxury industry has long sold itself on an idea of perfection. Flawless products, pristine images, and increasingly, unassailable sustainability pledges. But the case of LVMH and deforestation reveals a less polished reality. One where legal loopholes, opaque supply chains, and quiet lobbying efforts can undermine even the most well-intentioned green laws.
If leather is truly a byproduct, then it inherits the environmental cost of the meat it accompanies — not a free pass. The EUDR exists precisely to close that kind of accounting trick. Exempting leather wouldn’t just weaken the regulation; it would signal that luxury, once again, plays by different rules.
For LVMH, the path forward is clear but not easy. Promises to end deforestation by 2025 mean little if supply chains in 2025 are still tied to Paraguay’s disappearing Gran Chaco. The industry needs less lobbying and more traceability. Fewer claims of “very small” quantities and a full accounting of every hide.
Because in the end, green laws don’t fail in Brussels. They fail in the gap between a CEO’s testimony and a forest on fire. And that gap is where luxury must finally choose a side.
Vintage-inspired tailoring for modern humans: slow fashion, no gender, no noise
This is The Suspenders Trousers by Meagratia. In a system that produces tonnes of disposable clothing, we curate: one piece, one story. A radical view for ethical and aesthetic resistance — meaningful garments, an expression of good design. Slow fashion —made to last, made by hand.
The Suspenders Trousers arrive with presence but no stiffness. They hold their line without holding you back. A tailored pinstripe softened by an unexpectedly plush handfeel — structure that doesn’t fight the body. The attached suspenders, nostalgic yet modern, designed for ease. No cinching. Just a clean fall from shoulder to hem. A silent gesture of considered dressing.
They honour the discipline of tailored form: four front tucks that release into a refined drape, not bulk. The inner satin drawstring — hidden, pragmatic — lets you adjust without breaking the outer silhouette. A trouser that champions softness without losing its spine.
Black, but not flat. The pinstripe adds a ghost of rhythm — faint, like light through venetian blinds. Against the matte fabric, those thin lines catch just enough attention. A neutral with a secret.
Genderless contemporary tailoring for modern humans
The design: Tailored pinstripe trousers with integrated black suspenders. Tapered silhouette sitting at the natural waist. Four front tucks release volume without widening the hip; the inner satin drawstring fine-tunes fit from inside, unseen. Two side slip pockets. Two back welt pockets, one button-closed. Black suspenders on black pinstripe — tonal, not loud. Fabric: 63% polyester, 34% rayon, 3% polyurethane (soft as flannel, resilient as tailoring).
The make: Made in Japan. Soft-handle fabric that moves like knitwear but holds a crease. Clean internal finishing, reinforced tucks, suspenders attachment points stress-tested. Designed to be worn all day — from desk to dinner — without bagging at the knee or cutting at the waist.
The Suspenders Trousers: the bridge between comfort and polish
The Suspenders Trousers offer something rare: tailoring that breathes. You move from morning meeting to evening train without tugging or tightening — because comfort and poise are not opposites.
• For the studio or office: paired with a loose cotton poplin shirt, half-tucked. A uniform for creating or presenting. Hands free.
• For a weekend market or walk: worn with a plain white tee or thin cashmere knit. Suspenders relaxed. A balance of proportion and soft tailoring.
• For an evening out: worn with a sleeveless top or a tucked-in silk blouse. Suspenders doing the work of a belt — cleaner, quieter. Minimal heel or leather flat. The peak of quiet luxury.
For the modern humans who curate, not consume — whose wardrobe is a library of dog-eared favourites, each piece a chapter in their story.
🌟 The Suspenders Trousers – Meagratia Limited edition. Like a second skin with a spine — one for personal style. For life.
Available by appointment for shopping in Milano or worldwide — from screen to doorstep. From our hands to your daily ritual.
P.S. Ask us about why pinstripes don’t need contrast to work. Or how to build a full uniform that moves from dawn to dark without a single tuck or tug. We are here for the conversations, not just the transactions.
Soft structure meets silent poise — a shape for personal style, for life, for modern humans
This is The Curve Hem Tee by Ujoh. In a system that produces tonnes of disposable clothing, we curate: one piece, one story. A radical view for ethical and aesthetic resistance — meaningful garments, an expression of good design. Slow fashion—made to last, made by hand.
The Curve Hem Tee arrives without noise. It settles. The unexpected foundation of a modern uniform — a clean silhouette that offers both ease and quiet precision. In its mocrody fabric, it promises breathability; in its curved hem, it grants a sense of motion. A silent, grounding gesture of elevated simplicity.
It honours the discipline of essential form: structure that follows the body, yet leaves room for air. The difference in length between front and back becomes a study in balance. The crew neck — not tight, but exact. The half-sleeve — not short, but considered. A beauty that champions softness without sagging.
Mulberry. Not a primary, but a presence. The same deep richness as fruit in late summer light — a colour that holds warmth and mystery in equal measure. A hue with nothing to prove and everything to offer.
Slow fashion, no gender, no noise: the anatomy of timeless fashion
The detail: A curved hem that rounds the silhouette — front slightly cropped, back sweeping lower. Not accidental, but architectural. Half-sleeves for freedom without exposure. Crew neck that sits clean, never clutches. Made from mocrody: a high-gauge knit fabric from fine-count Supima cotton, with distinct front-and-back construction for natural firmness. A special softening finish adds an ultra-soft touch. Lightweight. Breathable. Moisture-wicking.
The design: Minimal crew neck tee with a generous, comfortable fit. Half-sleeves. Signature curved hem — longer at the back, shorter at the front — creating a fluid line that moves with you. Clean, unbroken surfaces. Nothing added that does not need to be there.
The make: Made in Japan — from 100% Supima cotton (mocrody). Breathable, soft, impeccably finished. Fully considered inside and out: clean seams, hand-wash care, private refinement. Tangible quality designed to travel, to settle, to last.
The Curve Hem Tee: the complement of a thoughtful wardrobe
The Curve Hem Tee offers something rare: presence without weight. You move from morning studio to evening walk without adjusting, without thinking — because living is the point.
• For the studio: tucked loosely into high-waisted trousers. Mulberry against tropical wool or linen. A uniform for making. For thinking.
• For a weekend afternoon: worn out, over wide-legged jeans or cotton shorts. The curved hem catching the light. A study in proportion, colour, and breath.
• For an evening gallery visit: half sleeves pushed up. The difference in length between front and back pooling gently over relaxed pants and minimal heels. The apex of considered softness.
For the modern humans who curate, not consume — whose wardrobe is a library of dog-eared favourites, each piece a chapter in their story.
🌟 The Curve Hem Tee – Ujoh Limited edition. Like a second skin — one for personal style. For life.
Available by appointment for shopping in Milano or worldwide—from screen to doorstep. From our hands to your daily ritual.
P.S. Ask us about the philosophy of its design in fashion — and how a single tee can move from studio to afternoon to dinner without changing its soul. Or how to build a full uniform — tee and trousers — that moves with you from dawn to dark. We are here for the conversations, not just the transactions.
Footnotes: The intelligence of this piece lies in its restraint. It offers the ease of a t-shirt alongside the structural intrigue of a curved hem — resolving a contemporary sartorial need. It proves that avant-garde design does not need to shout. And it simply needs to fit. Design refined to its most personal expression.
Scientific and informative day promoted by the Microplastics on Human Health Committee with the municipality of Milan
This is the second annual outreach conference on micro- and nanoplastics, organised by the Microplastics on Human Health Committee in collaboration with the Municipality of Milan.
Last year’s conference opened the conversation — covered in a three-part series: Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3.
Why this event? Because scientific knowledge is often poorly communicated. Misinformation is widespread.
This topic spans multiple domains: • effects on human health • the biological world • the industrial world • disposal and reuse of plastic • the fashion world
The goal is simple but essential: to share accurate information with the public and with institutions. You can watch the event here.
The weight of things: a brief history of anthropogenic mass
Telmo Pievani – professor of philosophy of biological sciences, University of Padua.
He opens the panel.
What is plastic? He starts with a quote:
“The material that nature forgot to invent.”
On one hand, it’s a sign of human inventiveness — the creation of a democratic material. On the other hand, it also has a dark side: if nature didn’t invent it, it means there are no bacteria capable of destroying it.
How long have we been inventing materials that nature forgot to invent? We have become physiologically dependent on technology. Just think of something as basic as cooking. We changed the world through technology, and we have become dependent on it. Now, we must learn to interact with nature in a virtuous way.
The problem is time. Let’s consider the human impact on the environment: from the 1950s onwards, there has been a great acceleration. In the last three generations, the human impact on the planet has gone out of control.
The weight of human artefacts used in our lives has exceeded the combined weight of all the plants, organisms, and microorganisms on Earth. (Ron Milo, study published in Nature, December 2020).
If we continue like this, by 2050, there will be more plastic than fish in the sea.
We must learn to make peace with nature. Nature-based solutions — as explored by Frances Arnold. She has found enzymes capable of reducing pollutants.
So, back to where we started: this, too, was not invented by nature, but it is a solution. Harnold exploited evolution to produce an enzyme that nature hadn’t invented. Researchers are now looking for bacteria capable of degrading plastic.
The attractiveness of plastic and its environmental implications, with particular reference to water
Nicoletta Ancona – Curator of the Aquarium and Civic Hydrological Station of Milan.
Plastics — what are they? Polymers — very long chains. Many different substances that we group together under a single name.
They have responded to human needs in every circumstance, as they are very cheap materials. The main problem issingle-use plastic — it degrades very slowly. Therefore, its use must be severely limited.
Plastic production is rapidly increasing. But where does all this plastic end up? Only a tiny portion is recovered. The rest is dispersed everywhere, through the water cycle. Concentrations of plastic are found everywhere. Microplastics are the most damaging. Micro- and nanoplastics are much less visible but make up a significant portion of our diet. It starts with filter feeders — oysters, shellfish, whales — so they enter the food chain. There are also substances that bind to plastic and amplify its harmful effects.
So, there is an ethical and health issue. It is important to inform, raise awareness, and educate. Let’s start from the bottom — from our daily lives — to limiting plastics.
A striking note: It’s sad to hear that in a facility like the Aquarium, they still use plastic cups for coffee. Due to existing agreements, bla bla bla… When we say the system is designed to fail, are we really wrong?
The hidden threats of plastics on human health
Prof. Claudio Fenizia – Professor of Immunology, University of Milan
Threats of plastic to human health. Highlighting the critical issues.
How plastics enter the body: Plastics enter through inhalation, food, food and beverage containers, food storage containers, and transdermal application. Plastics have been found in blood, testes, placenta, and amniotic fluid. What is the effect? • In atherosclerotic plaques, a higher concentration of plastic corresponds to greater inflammation. • Plastic has been found in tumour tissue. • A higher amount of plastic in the brain corresponds to a higher proportion of individuals with disorders such as senile dementia.
But – and this is key – Until the causal mechanism is identified, the effect cannot be demonstrated. Or rather: it must be defined whether plastic is the cause or the effect of inflammation or disease.
Environment, water and health
Prof. Caterina La Porta – Professor of Pathology, University of Milan
The environment we live in determines our health. A single vision of health emerges — One health.
Water is one of the most important vectors of exposure. We drink. We bathe. We wash our clothes. Everything in the environment reaches us.
Heavy metals, pesticides, and organic compounds accumulate in the environment. This isn’t just an environmental problem — it’s becoming a health issue.
Regarding the impact of micro- and nanoplastics, we need to determine whether there is correlation or causality. Whether there is a single effect or bioaccumulation.
The microbiota — the complex network of bacteria, fungi, and viruses present in our intestines — is key. Studies are being conducted to understand what happens with microplastics, which function as a concentration of toxic substances.
Climate change multiplies the risk. For example, drought increases concentration.
Education means making it clear that there is a problem. And making the right choice together.
What kind of future do we want?
Are PFAS and plastics really eternal pollutants?
Prof. Edoardo Puglisi – Professor of Agricultural Microbiology, Catholic University of the Sacred Heart, Cremona
The question — which may seem philosophical, but it’s a scientific one — concerns whether we can solve the problems posed by these invaders.
First, a distinction: pollutant vs. contaminant. When we talk about pollution, we use the words pollutant and contaminant in the same way, as synonyms. Technically, they are two different things.
• Contaminant: a natural or man-made substance that reaches a certain threshold. • Pollutant: when that substance reaches levels high enough to cause adverse effects.
Another related issue is natural vs. synthetic substances. There’s a tendency to think that natural substances are less toxic, but this isn’t always true. We must have a scientific approach that allows us to understand how and to what extent substances can be dangerous.
Some natural substances are much more toxic than chemical ones. In science, it’s best not to have multiple words that mean the same thing.
Another key distinction: danger vs. risk
• Danger: a substance that is toxic and can be dangerous to humans and the environment. • Risk: depends on exposure. Risk combines danger and exposure. How much we are exposed to these substances. Risk assessment involves addressing these two elements.
A tiger can be dangerous, but the risk depends on the exposure. The same goes for pollutants.
As a microbiologist, the answer he tries to give as to whether PFAS are truly contaminants starts from the observation of microorganisms. These are the oldest organisms on Earth. They are a constant with an enormous capacity to adapt, even to new invaders.
New substances are called xenobiotics — substances that have never existed on Earth. Like PFAS, like plastics. Organisms were unaware of them, but they learned to interact with them.
Microorganisms are, therefore, allies in remediation. If we are dealing with an organic pollutant, microorganisms can learn to degrade and consume it. There is a coevolution between microorganisms and the xenobiotics existing in the environment. New metabolic pathways are developing that can lead to degradation.
What are PFAS?
PFAS are a highly heterogeneous family of chemical molecules containing a covalent bond between carbon and fluorine. They are called “eternal pollutants” because they are difficult to degrade.
PFAS and microplastics move through the environment and enter humans. Plastics tend to become micro- and nanoplastics. The smaller they are, the more they tend to accumulate.
Plastifera, the communities of bacteria and microscopic fungi that have learned to colonise plastics. The degradation of plastics is still very limited. But fungi are beginning to degrade plastics.
Remediation is possible PFAS can be remediated. The costs are high, but the costs associated with pollution are even higher. There are enzymes that have learned to colonise PFAS.
Case study: Veneto In Veneto, there has been a significant accumulation of PFAS in water and the environment. A study is underway to identify degradation genes.
His conclusion: He is confident that solutions can be found to degrade PFAS.
Micro and nanoplastics — closing notes
If by 2050 we’ll have more plastic than fish in the sea, these bacteria need to hurry up.
From Pievani’s “material that nature forgot to invent” to Puglisi’s microbes slowly learning to eat it, one thing is clear: nature is trying to catch up. But time is not on our side.
We left the panel with more questions than answers— Not just about causality and bioaccumulation, but about who to trust. Greenwashing wasn’t mentioned by name, but it hung in the air like the plastic cups of the Aquarium.
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Coming Wednesday: Micro and nanoplastics: what can we actually do? From daily choices to institutional action.
