Explorations

Dissecting Gender Norms: “My Brain Is Up Here”

Reading Time: 3 minutes

The elegance and beauty of the female brain


Through dissecting gender norms, I explore how societal expectations and discrimination continue to shape the female experience in a world striving for equality.

When I was a little girl, I remember being told quite often that I should be aware of how revealing my wardrobe is. How much makeup I am wearing, or how intense I am behaving. People would say that it is distracting to boys when they are in school.

Sadly, I never heard anyone try to teach a boy not only that they should respect women and look to them for intellectual guidance. Since it’s scientifically proven that the female brain matures faster than the male. But also that they shouldn’t be viewing us as distracting sexual objects.

As a result of this misguided message, women are viewed as a trophy or accessory for a man. Other terms that come to mind are: “bitchy”, “too much”, “bossy”, “confrontational”, or “stubborn”.
Ironically, when men present the same behaviour that usually gives us these titles, they are said to be “determined”, “a leader”, “well-spoken”, or “hard-working”.

How gender discrimination is portrayed in society


A consistent example of women being negatively targeted in our society is prevalent in our female celebrities. In interviews, they often receive questions about the outfit they are wearing, the fitness regime they follow. What diet they are restricted to for maintaining their figure. Or my favourite, “are you dating anyone new”. They are rarely asked about their career goals and opinions on current social issues.

One of my favourite interviews was with Simone Biles. When the interviewer commented on her lack of smiling during routines, Biles responded: “smiling doesn’t win you gold medals.”
In this interview, Biles was able to break the lens that is typically looked through when reviewing a woman. We are beautiful and elegant. But we are also powerful, determined, disciplined, and honourable.

Female celebrities are constantly bombarded on the red carpet, being asked about their romantic life or if they will be “leaving with lots of men tonight”.
The key focus is always about who they will be the trophy for, not that they are their own trophy.

Gender norms: it’s a man’s world. . . so let’s make it ours too


By dissecting gender norms, we uncover how we live in a world defined and constructed by men, from the language to the ground we walk on. Yet they are utterly confused to find us questioning everything around us. In a global society dominated by men, women are often criticised when doing something that was assumed to only be possible by a man.

Every success or power move beyond a man’s comfort level is questioned, every opinion verbalised in an important room is critiqued. And every social step-forward is categorised as a “female revolution of empowerment”, since any progress from zero is applaudable.

We shouldn’t be settling for minor improvements in our system, and we shouldn’t have to answer to every man who interrogates our purpose in the field he generally occupies. We have normalized our whispers as a way of accommodating men, avoiding the offensive titles they have given us.

Since it’s brutally obvious that men don’t have any agenda to flip the conversation, rather than adapting to our gender-exclusive environment, it’s time we counteract their close-minded reality with the truth of what being a woman truly means.

We live in a world paved for men. Although women have made great leaps in upheaving this pavement, we still have a long way to go.

Don’t forget the beauty, and elegance within your mind that makes you a woman. Most importantly, don’t forget to speak your mind unapologetically. No more whispers.


✍️ A piece written by Gavriel Ewart. An American girl studying fashion and communication at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

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The New Categorising

Reading Time: 2 minutes

A human need, or an empty extremisation?


The new trend of categorising—or the need to assign labels that define where specific groups should fit—is growing rapidly. Terms like genderless, sustainable, recycled, upcycled, and inclusive are some of the most popular labels in fashion today. Yet, while we see these pretty, or not really so, boxes clearly labelled, they often feel too artificial, fake.

Categorising: a marketing byproduct


Why are brands so obsessed with labelling their work? And, in parallel, why do people need these labels? To identify themselves? or to be represented?

Jean-Paul Gaultier created the majority of the fashion topics that are trending now. Yet, during the ’80s and ’90s, there were no labels to claim in the fashion world. It was, instead, a celebration of freedom—both from the designer’s perspective and for those who wore his creations.
Fast forward to 2022, and the obsession with labelling has exploded. Genderless and sustainable are among the most popular, with nearly every brand now claiming to be genderless. Similarly, terms like recycled and upcycled have surged to the forefront. Clearly, it’s a trend.

Coming from a family of seamstresses, disassembling a pair of trousers to make a skirt or transforming a shirt into a blouse was part of our daily routine—essentially, the essence of upcycling and recycling. Moreover, in our boutique, we always offered men’s items to women and women’s items to men, but we never felt the need to categorise them. This, in many ways, embodies the true spirit of genderless fashion, inclusion, and diversity.

Even though about five years ago, we started focusing more on genderless or recycled as valuable concepts, now brands overuse them. Indeed these leabel became so mainstream that they are abused or intentionally misleading, as in the case of sustainability.

We are not happy to be classified. So we wonder, what happened recently? What does the new categorising mean?

We believe that the less meaning we find in brands and their products, the more they rely on labels to make their offerings easier to market.

The supply far exceeds the number of people in the world who can actually purchase these products—the demand. To reach the masses, brands have lowered the bar. And the more they lower the bar, the less value they offer. This is where the need for aggressive marketing and labelling comes into play.

In conclusion, labelling is an attempt to legitimise and promote an otherwise hollow system. Rather than focusing on what truly matters—the substance—they rely on labels to create a facade of value.

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Beyond Our Control?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Natural threats and human behaviour


Last Wednesday night, a 7.4 magnitude earthquake hit eastern Japan, the same region devastated by a powerful quake 11 years ago.

And so my friend, who lives in Fukushima prefecture, texted me: “the trauma comes back again.”

In 2011, a tsunami up to about 40 meters high arrived at the coast within 30 minutes, destroying entire cities, and damaging nuclear power plants in Fukushima.

It was the most severe earthquake in recorded history. I was only 11 years old, but still, I vividly remember that day.
So last week, the same tragic pictures just crossed my mind.
I was terrified. I was scared of what I was watching on television. And I wish it was just under the scope of human control.

Beyond our control, or within it?


Boyarovskaya released their digital show for Fall/Winter 2022-2023 during the Paris fashion week.

In the end, it says:

“Nature cannot be controlled, but war can.”

Indeed the video was filmed in a town destroyed by a great earthquake.

A natural disaster is a catastrophe, yet we need to live with it. It kills thousands of people indiscriminately. The power of nature is frightening, intimidating, and out of control.

But what about the war?

Fashion as a means of communication to convey a powerful message


The simple words by Boyarovskaya are straightforward enough for the world today. But they leave such a strong message to all of us.

What we are now watching on television is a 100% man-made tragedy. Something we did not want.

With great respect, they chose to include their message in their digital show. It touches us, makes us think, and leads us to actions.

Only 4 minutes. No words spoken, but it tells so much about what we need to do in a very powerful, yet touching way.

Again, “Nature cannot be controlled, but war can.”
This is the word we need to live up with.


#STANDWITHUKRAINE



✍️ A piece written by Kotono Sakai, a Japanese girl studying history and fashion at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

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The Challenge of Selling Sustainability To the Youth

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Identity or Identical: discovering your own style


Throughout many generations, there has always been the chapter of one’s young adult life when the opportunity of freedom and finding themselves is made available.
A topic within the discovery of oneself is figuring out your preferred style of clothing. Although this topic has always been apparent, it has flourished more than ever in recent years since more styles from the past have resurfaced and more alternative designs are being discovered.

Today’s youth are born into a society where they have effortless access to every clothing style imaginable. Indeed, they are given more flexibility upon various purchases because of discounted stores, and thanks to fast fashion, shelves are constantly reloaded with new trends.
They rely on mass production and endless options in order to discover the type of person they want to be in society. They use fashion as a method of showing the world who they are. And how they want to be portrayed.

Youth and sustainability: mixed messages


A strong message of environmentalism, as well as activism for unjust labour and mass waste in the fashion industry, have been shoved in the faces of many young adults. They are the future. So they should be informed because inevitably, they will have to be the ones to fix it.
But how are young people supposed to comprehend the immense troubles of mass production when that is the tool used for constructing their individuality?

Ethical production, made-to-order business strategies, and high-end thrifting apps seem to be one solution to mass waste. But how are the youth expected to contribute to the solution when they are supporting the problem in order to find themselves?

Sustainably identical or identity through corruption


Will sustainability among the youth insinuate an ideal of cloning or constricting youth creativity? There have been many new sustainable brands on the rise recently. So access to creativity and options is not the problem. The problem is general access due to price.

A brand is not truly sustainable unless the price is high. Profits go towards ethically paying for all processes of production, distribution, and finding high-quality environmentally friendly materials. Which are expensive. So does that place a cement barrier between the youth and sustainable living?

How do we expect the new generation to contribute to the solution? When rationally, they are one of the biggest components of the problem.

We inform them, we educate them, and we make them aware. Rather than remaining the problem, they can be one of the biggest solutions.
Since Generation Z and Millenials are what makes up one of the biggest factors in overconsumption, waste, and over-production. Convincing them to halt their current mindset would tear down the entire system.

You can’t continue the unhealthy cycle if there is no one left to buy into the lies.


✍️ A piece written by Gavriel Ewart. An American girl studying fashion and communication at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

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