Explorations

Fashion and Patriarchy

Reading Time: 2 minutes

How men’s taste shapes women’s style


An anthropologic examination of fashion helps us understand why men’s taste becomes the favourite one.

But is that style favuoring women’s empowerment? Or is it just the expression of man’s vision? Also, is fashion for women or against women? These are questions we should be asking ourselves.

By analysing the context in which we live, the conclusion is that societal rules, beauty standards, and fashion are manifestations of patriarchy. Yes, it doesn’t take a subtle analyst to understand that. The whole world tells a story of patriarchy because we live in a man-shaped society.

Education for a men’s world


The way women behave, talk, think and see themselves is the sedimentation of centuries of male domination. And so it is for the way women dress. Indeed, it’s not really about expressing women’s taste, but it’s about fitting in an image stitched on us by male figures. It’s a cultural moulding representing an eternal story of dominance and submission.

Women are educated–or brainwashed–to please men in everything they do. Indeed, they are a playful accessory for men. That was the female’s role in the past, and so it is now. Nothing ever changed for real. Women’s style must conform to men’s taste, or they complain.

How men's taste dominates
Fashion and patriarchy


For instance, take the ’50s. Fashion during that time was all about catching men’s attention with lines that highlighted the body. That taste never went out of fashion. And if you ask a woman what style trend she prefers, the ’50s are always on top.

And so, from abortion to clothing, it seems we are glad to let men decide everything about our lives.

The idea is to question conventional rules and notions. Decontextualising fashion to remove all the layers that, century after century, were placed on us. They are just a reflection of patriarchy.

By understanding that, we embrace our freedom. Men do not define us–we define ourselves!

Women must be aware of their worth and choose what best suits them. Understanding this point is a process that leads to self-appreciation and self-awareness.

Recently (again), we heard the story of a woman who couldn’t buy a dress because her husband didn’t like it. Years of feminism for this? Really?

The question is: do you like it?

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The Truth About Sustainability

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Green terms: no rules, just fluff!


Labelling products as sustainable is mainly a marketing trick, so let’s uncover the truth about sustainability. Although people believe that products marketed as sustainable are effectively so, the reality is much different. And when renowned experts in the field point it out clearly, we really appreciate it.

The Portas Pov is one of our favourite newsletters. The last one released was about sustainability and how tricky the topic is.
We quote it:

“But the reality is that, right here and now, there are no rules: no governance defining all those fluffy green terms. No legislation keeping businesses in check. So, all these words and phrases that the fashion world is co-opting with such success – sustainable, natural, “made from ocean plastics” – are, in large part, meaningless.”

The truth: sustainability or greenwashing?


So is it sustainability or greenwashing? A transparent message or a trick to sell more?

Indeed, there is no interruption with our previous post about a very timely and provocative show: “The end of the world.”

In fact, the story continues right on the same line where two main factors strive: first, the lack of responsibility. Whatever we do, we do not hold ourselves accountable. Like we could go on wasting, polluting, discarding, and then maybe move to another planet. Or, we just do not care about leaving an open-air landfill to our children. Enjoy life and leave them the troubles!
Second, our industrial society or an economic system known as capitalism. This, in other words, means constant growth based on unstoppable productions and rabid comption habits.

One factor is ingrained into the other: an eternal lack of responsibility coexists with a capitalistic society. And one supports the other.

Whatever the political side, governments will hardly have the capability to do something because those who move the pawns are the ones who own the money. They stay behind but will never change because they have no interest in doing it.

How to escape meaningless claims


Labelling products as sustainable will not change things. Indeed, these are just meaningless claims. If we want to be 100% sustainable, the truth is we should not produce a single new thing! Which is impossible.

Therefore, the best possibility is to change ourselves, our behaviour, our perspectives, and our lifestyle. Sticking to our values and our accountability is where our power resides.

Don’t buy into everything!

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The End Of The World Is Here!

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Ready to party?


The end of the world or the moment we have touched the point of no return is perceived differently. But these are facts, and we’re all invited to the party!

There are thoughts and ideas in the air that touch certain people, connecting and making them feel somehow similar. The environmental emergency is one of these. Indeed, a topic we have discussed many times, even before starting this blog.

And so, we were pleased to receive the invitation from Lab121 to the play “The end of the world” (script by Fabrizio Sinisi, directed by Claudio Autelli), staged at the Franco Parenti Theatre (Porta Romana district).

The end of the world!


It is the story of a contemporary Venice in a dystopic future in which, due to global warming, the lagunar city faces its last day before sinking. Well, call it a dystopic future if you wish!

The catastrophe weaves together the stories of the four characters, two brothers and two sisters. Luca, an actor (Umberto Terruso); Dora, his colleague and former fiancé (Alice Spisa); Diego (Angelo Tronca), Luca’s brother hospitalised in a mental institution; and Atena (Anahì Traversi), an environmental activist and partner of a tycoon and philanthropist.
So, in a game of brilliant intersections, global warming mirrors personal tragedies and vice-versa. And the narrative revolves around a party for the end of the world!

Indeed, the play triggers intense emotions and bitter laughter. It is a pondering on our lifestyle, a poignant, desecrating and, at times, irritating narrative on the lack of responsibility of the generations that preceded us. But ours too! People who have lived by ignoring what could have been the effect of their actions on the environment. Also, the show addresses the resistance to change in the industrialised world even when a catastrophe is tangible. Highlighting, in fact, the expression of an egoistic view, where people live avoiding any worries.

Of course, this show is totally aligns with all the posts we have written so far, even if it risks being annoying, boring or alarmist. And it aligns even with the new path that we have decided to take because of the pandemic: change. Change because life is about change, evolution, and growth. But what makes the difference is the moment you realise action is needed. Moving from words, or mere marketing, which are of little use, to tangible facts and actions.
Those little actions that, put together, can lead to something bigger.

Now the change is up to us!

Let’s celebrate!


“The Real has won
officially won
we can finally
stop fighting.
A possible catastrophe creates anxiety,
but a sure catastrophe, instead, creates joy.
Best wishes and congratulations “

Check the next dates here
And enjoy the end of the world!

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Enemies Of The Women – Afghanistan

Reading Time: 2 minutes

How the Taliban erases women from the public scene


Appalling news confirm that talibans are enemies of the women. In fact, in Afghanistan, the intent to erase women from public life is back at the centre of the Taliban’s barbaric activity.

Recently, the Taliban released a new decree which states some utterly regressive points: first, women are not allowed to travel alone for long distances. Second, women aren’t allowed to work outside the healthcare and education fields. Third, women cannot receive a secondary education.

In addition to that, the Taliban government ordered women to cover their faces in public. And you may think that the horror stops there, but it does not! If that isn’t enough, male relatives would be fined or jailed if the women go uncovered.
In other words, they are suggesting women should stay home!

So, in the end, not only can Afghan women not study and receive an education, but they must follow the Taliban dress code, which forces them to cover their faces fully.

We tend to have many things to say about patriarchy in the western world. But if in our culture, we still have to do a lot of work in order to reach gender equality, being a woman in Afghanistan is a nightmare.

For instance, how can a journalist give the news with her mouth covered? Again, this is a clear invitation for women to stay home.

As the press released the news, some male tv presenters covered their faces with face masks in solidarity with their female colleagues. And they launched a campaign on social media with the hashtag #FreeHerFace

These people are so brave that we should support them and share their cause.

No rights, no freedom, no school, no work. Nothing without their male guardian. A male guardian?!
These are acts of despicable misogyny. Troglodytic and brutal oppression which confirms that talibans are enemies of the women.

Afghan women, you are so brave! #FreeHerFace

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Tom Ford & The Change

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Analysing the fashion business in a post-pandemic world


Even if it is not easy to plan the best strategy, the need to change is in the air. Strong and palpable. Brands pretend to care but avoid the matter. However, since the pandemic hit, nothing has changed. Only a few involved in the discussion are truly concerned.

Now, the news is that Tom Ford will step down as chairman of the CDFA on May 31st.

We quote him:

“When I began my role as chairman in June of 2019, my goal was to help the American fashion industry become more globally recognised for its talent and importance. I could not have imagined the extraordinary circumstances that both the industry and the world would have to navigate — that a pandemic would shut the world down and change the course of our lives and of our businesses forever.”

“The pandemic challenged all of us to think about our businesses in new ways—from the design process and production, to how we reach and speak to our customers.”

Tom Ford

The need to change


In other words, Tom Ford reflects on his role as chairman, aiming to elevate American fashion globally. However, the unforeseen pandemic disrupted the industry, forcing a fundamental shift in how businesses operate, from design and production to customer engagement.

Since the beginning of our blog, we have talked profusely about change and shifting behaviours in our lifestyle. Therefore, finding new business models. And we highlighted how the pandemic was the catalyst which opened our eyes and led us to a new perspective. So, we find it interesting to listen to Tom Ford and recall his evolution. From the moment he revived Gucci with his minimal, bold, and ultra sexy style saving the brand from bankruptcy in the 90s. To how he revamped Yves Saint Laurent and the launch of his namesake brand in 2005.

Many years have passed, and now things are different, so what was right in the 90s does not work anymore.

The need to change is evident. And finding new ways to pursue the fashion business is something we cannot ignore anymore.

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