Explorations

Fashion & Global Boiling

Reading Time: 2 minutes

How can the fashion industry adapt to the extreme weather?


Temperatures are peaking, hitting a record around the globe, and as we have entered the global boiling era, the fashion industry needs to rethink its business models.

“Climate change is here, it is terrifying, and it is just the beginning. The era of global warming has ended and the era of global boiling has arrived.” – said the UN Secretary-General, Antonio Guterres.

Scientists confirmed that July has been one of the world’s hottest months. Of course, what is happening is consistent with the predictions, but the change seems to accelerate faster than expected.

Though Guterres calls for immediate action in order to turn the tide, we are not optimistic. Big corporations will not approach degrowth, which would be the only valuable possibility to reduce our impact on the planet.

For the fashion industry, global boiling means getting ready with a different plan, a leaner way to operate the business. In fact, this new normal makes it difficult to think in terms of foreseeable seasons, as the industry has done so far.

Therefore, fashion brands should rethink how they set up their Spring-Summer collections by presenting patterns, fabrics, and silhouettes designed for a new reality. Most importantly, they need to reconsider how they sell to retailers.

Retailers, on their hand, need to order from brands that allow them to purchase smaller quantities and give them the possibility to reorder. In fact, ordering six months earlier is not really smart since it is impossible to foresee the weather in the long run.

Global boiling: possible solutions for the fashion industry


Pre-order: retailers can show the products to their customers and then pass an order to the brand.
Made-to-order: products made within certain specifications, such as materials, colours, and dimensions, but in a limited range of options.
Customised product: clothes or accessories created for an individual customer, according to their needs and requirements.

Benefits:
All the above models would limit overproduction and fashion waste. Also, they would help improve inventory allocation.
Retailers would sell during the season, limiting frequent markdowns because of overstocking.
Products would keep a higher value throughout the year.

People would purchase fewer garments but better quality.

Something needs to change in the fashion system. The industry must be flexible and adapt to specific seasons and unforeseeable events.

Fashion must consider global boiling, or it will end up boiled.

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Uncompromising, Sinéad O’Connor

Reading Time: 3 minutes

The sad post-mortem recognition as a feminist icon


The passing of Sinéad O’Connor, uncompromising woman and beautiful soul, left us speechless. Not to mention celebrities’ tributes posted on the web.

Modern society, which is basically (and sadly) a big market, is not the place for uncompromising women. A rebellious attitude does not play well with patriarchy and market requests. What sells, marketing, and who sells more – are the only things that count in a money-driven society. In this context, even the female aesthetic is strictly linked to what sells. In fact, there are specific norms, rules or standards to which every woman needs to conform in order to be accepted.

Inimitable talent and uncompromising style


Around the end of the 80s, we saw a face of rare beauty with a bald head and a voice of unique intensity, and we fell in love with her. When interviewed, Irish singer Sinéad O’Connor revealed that the music industry expected her to conform to a certain image, urging her to have long hair and wear revealing clothes. Instead, she showed up bald and in combat boots.

Her shaved head became a trademark, a symbol of protest against traditional views of femininity. Although she tried to hide her beauty, the result was exactly the opposite. Indeed, very few women can cut their hair that way and still look so very beautiful!

Conformism & contemporary feminism


If a woman wants to be considered beautiful or accepted as an artist, or whatever she wants to do in her life, the standards are long hair and tight-fitting clothes. So we have some problems understanding the contemporary idea of feminism. For instance, look at all the celebrities who call themselves feminists; celebrated by the mainstream culture, they look as the system wants them to be, calling it freedom of expression. Is that real feminism? We don’t think so. For sure, hitting the number one charts thanks to an immense voice and a clean face and piercing eyes, was different. So, follow what the system wants, conform if you feel ok, but don’t call it feminism.

We have always searched for news from her social media accounts because we appreciated her outspoken personality, anti-establishment position and political activism. Most celebrities, though having platforms, do not say a word on crucial matters.
In fact, she was so brave to speak in support of child abuse, human rights, women’s rights, and against wars and racism. Most importantly, being a victim of abuse, she showed her vulnerability by disclosing her struggles with mental health and fibromyalgia. But she got hate and disregard in return.

On July 26, the uncompromising Sinéad O’Connor was found dead. And, all of a sudden, she becomes a feminist icon, understood only after her death. Insulted when alive, celebrated after death!

One comment really made sense:

“You praise her now ONLY because it is too late. You hadn’t the guts to support her when she was alive and she was looking for you.”

Morrissey

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Extreme Weather: The New Normal

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Why people don’t care about climate change


It seems extreme weather bothers people in proportion to the intensity of heat, cold, or devastation they suffered. Beyond the dramatic headlines, these events often spark conversations and complaints, but all too frequently, the discussion ends there.

But now that information is everywhere, accessible more then ever, why do people choose not educate themselves? Why is there indifference and inaction?

Extreme weather in Europe


A massive storm and hail have devastated Milano. Also, in the Mediterranean, flames are devouring everything. That happens in Sicily, Greece, Croatia, Turkey and Gran Canaria. From droughts to wildfires, these days, Europe is burning. The climate emergency is tangible. Also, we know what has caused climate change, which drives extreme weather, as scientists made it clear decades ago. They said we had to change the way humans impacted the planet. But we kept on abusing nature in the name of money.

Furthermore, instead of listening to those who tried to open our eyes, instead of changing our lifestyle to avoid extinction, we changed the marketing! So now, every product or service is green. Brilliant! But guess what? The world is in flames.

Misleading messages on climate change


Recently, the Italian Prime Minister spoke at the Vox rally in Valencia. She said we need to “stop ultra-ecological fanaticism.” Also: “ecological sustainability must go hand in hand with economic sustainability.”
In other words, according to the Italian government, we need to stop those who take a step to protect nature but do not say a word about oil companies.

These messages on how to handle climate change are disturbing. Besides, this viewpoint goes hand in hand with the fake slogans of green capitalism and sustainability, which are expressions of greenwashing.

Please, stop it all. Stop talking! No more words on sustainability because they are unnerving.
We are fed up with hearing governments and brands talking about growth. We cannot stand hearing about sustainable fashion, organic food, sustainable tourism or net zero! There is no such thing as sustainable growth.

Climate change worsens, but we keep doing what we have done so far. More flights, more cars, more travel, more consumption. Like someone driving a car about to hit a wall but does not care!

Now more than ever, information is available to everyone. In fact, there is enough information about climate change to educate ourselves and hold ourselves accountable. Yet most people prefer to credit those who deny it. Either there is a lack of understanding, or we are kidding ourselves.

But one thing is clear: extreme weather is the new normal. And we cannot afford this inconsiderate behaviour anymore.

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Education To Value

Reading Time: 2 minutes

How to survive in a world of destructive overproduction


Going from “fashion is dead” to a style rebirth as the reflection of a thoughtful lifestyle involves a renewed education to value. Which, in an era of devastating overproduction and immense confusion, takes time, a lot of time. Also, patience and humble work–getting rid of pointless stuff. And silence rather than loudness and obsessive presence. Because it can be ok to post on social media, but for instance, if designers’ voices speak louder than their product, they are not for us.

The paradox of sustainability


Paradoxically, because of sustainability, buzz increased, yet no change ever happened. Noise, just a lot of noise. Who’s the greenest one? The show is on, but the conversation is demeaning. Thanks to green capitalism, in fact, many individuals found new job opportunities even though it has nothing to do with being sustainable. It’s about making money, not making change. Apart from climate activists, sustainability and green capitalism turned out to be a profitable bandwagon.

Indeed, green brushstrokes seemed very cool. And what’s absurd is that most people buy into it.

Therefore, from the perspective of seeking value and offering value, favouring interactions in smaller communities seems more effective than social media screaming. More real, more human. Fake conversations lead nowhere.

Education to value: what does it mean?


How can you educate yourself to value?
Start by avoiding mass production, mass tourism, and intensive farming. Specifically, in fashion, rediscovering value means developing an understanding and appreciation of good design, as well as learning about quality and artisanal craftsmanship.
Respect workers’ rights and human rights, and care about whether workers receive fair wages.. Above all, it’s essential to work within the planet’s means.

It involves the need to eliminate the garbage that brands try to sell, and not wanting to be part of a system that wants to promote it. Rather than buying pointless stuff, buy nothing at all.

Break the moulds.
Escape marketing slogans,
Search for quality, not quantity.
Because education to value means learning that less is more, even if the rest of the world still follows another direction.

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Jane Birkin, Farewell

Reading Time: 3 minutes

A style icon: the impact of inspiration on reality


On July 16, Jane Birkin passed away aged 76 in her Parisian home. The British-born singer, actress and muse has shaped the image of the French allure. Indeed, she will represent the symbol of Bohemian coolness forever.

Cinema, music and style icon, she also inspired the famous Hermes Birkin bag. Actually, she hadn’t just provided the inspiration, but she had suggested what kind of capable handbag she needed when she had met the French maison president on a flight.

Of course, everyone knows Jane Birkin. So, the purpose of our exploration is not to revisit her life. In fact, you may watch “Jane by Charlotte,” the documentary released by her daughter, Charlotte Gainsbourg, in 2021. Instead, we want to analyse to what degree Jane Birkin, regarded by other women as a style example, impacted women’s fashion in reality.

Jane Birkin: timeless style


Undoubtedly, her 60s and 70s outfits marked women’s fashion, making her a point of reference for all designers. But, her latest style represented an evolution: white men’s shirts, oversized coats, blazers, boyfriend jeans and white denim, and flat shoes. Yes, in some interviews, she said she started wearing men’s clothes (now fashion marketing has discovered genderless style). Rugged but refined, mannish but feminine, clothes mixed with that touch of nonchalant elegance typical of someone who can say: ‘my clothes are nice, but I look cool because I am so.’ Indeed, style goes beyond clothes: it reflects that inner quid that clothes alone cannot give. And her style reflected her attitude. In the end, people can buy the bag, but reaching that level of coolness is another story.

However, her effortless style passed through time and evolved with a sense of timelessness, making her an eternal muse.

She could choose to age according to contemporary standards. On the contrary, she left her face to show the signs of time, with no trace of plastic surgery. A woman who aged beautifully–true to herself and always elegant.

Jane Birkin: from inspiration to reality


Now think about women who celebrate her as a style icon. How do these women process their style from inspiration to reality? What do they wear? And how are they manipulating their image? Swollen faces, bigger and bigger, to the point of losing traces of human features. Smooth but fake. Bodies are an explosion of plastic. Not to mention clothes that have no idea of elegance.

So, from idolising a muse to reality, what goes wrong? If women say: “we love her style” – what happens afterwards? We’re curious to hear some comments.

Ultimately, no woman in our contemporary universe could wear a naked dress as Jane Birkin did. Her timeless, chic, unforgettable style is on the verge of extinction.

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