Explorations

The Pandoro Case

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On the society of appearance


We examine the Pandoro case involving Chiara Ferragni, as it serves as an opportunity to shed light on the shallowness prevalent in modern communication. Beyond its facade, it conceals a fraudulent side often overlooked. Although we value independent thinking, so influencers are not for us, it seems people love them.

The controversy


Ferragni collaborated with Balocco, resulting in a pandoro, usually priced around 4€, sold for approximately 9€, promising a portion to charity. Despite a previous donation of 50 thousand euros by Balocco, no additional proceeds were given. Journalist Selvaggia Lucarelli raised concerns about misleading advertising. So, the case exploded. Yesterday, with fake-natural makeup and donning a grey shirt against a neutral backdrop, the influencer apologized in tears on her social media account.

Paolo Ercolani: highlighting the broader context


Amidst this controversy, Paolo Ercolani, a philosopher and Professor at the University of Urbino, provided insights in “Il Fatto Quotidiano.” His article unveiled the true nature of social media, and we couldn’t agree more. In fact, the Professor does not judge the influencer herself or her misleading advertising practice. Specifically, he directs attention to the broader contexts enabling deceptive practices and influencers to thrive.

We quote Paolo Ercolani:

“What is deceptive is rather what Guy Debord called in 1967 the ‘society of the spectacle,’ in which ‘the truth is a moment of the false’ and the spectacle itself turns out to be ‘the affirmation of appearance and the affirmation of human life, that is, social life, as a simple appearance.’ Ercolani adds, Debord tells us no more than this: ‘What appears is good, and what is good appears.'”

via “Il Fatto Quotidiano”

Ercolani emphasises that Ferragni has already triumphed. Whether erroneous or deceitful, her actions have catalysed immense media attention. She has won because people buy – in huge quantities – products she endorses. Categories like truth or falsehood have become fluid in our society, like other categories.

According to Debord, Ercolani writes, “The spectacle subjugates living men to itself to the extent that the economy has totally subjugated them.”
Modern capitalism was based on a “degradation of being into having,” while postmodern capitalism transitioned from ‘having’ to ‘appearing’ – where those who appear gain, and those who gain, appear.

Eventually, Ercolani pinpoints two prerequisites for this lucrative system:
First, a passive public opinion reduced to connected automatons devoid of critical thought.
Second, an inadequate political class, ‘boiled’ and kneeling to the dictates of finance. Therefore, unable to counteract this trend.

Modern communication and capitalism


Modern communication in the hands of a few people fosters misleading practices. Unfortunately, charities (and non-profits) are the new frontier of capitalism, another way to make money.
The solution? Since the political and corporate realms prioritise power and profit, we do not trust them much. However, we believe education stands as a beacon for enlightenment and change.

So, we thank “Il Fatto Quotidiano” and Prof. Ercolani for their insightful analysis. But also for introducing us to Guy Debord and his “The Society of the Spectacle.” It prompts us to explore its contemporary relevance.

Ultimately, we hope the Pandoro case serves as an eye-opener, urging a reevaluation of our perceptions.

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The Greenwashing Effect

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& where sustainability can grow


Today, we read on Modem about Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana’s presence at COP28, and the greenwashing effect starts itching. By the way, the entire conference sparked a considerable sense of discomfort.

Indeed, the recent presence of the fashion world at COP28 in Dubai raised eyebrows and questions about the authenticity of the messages from mainstream fashion entities. Likewise, the event “Climate Change is not Cool: A Sustainability Message from the Fashion World” by Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana.

COP28 & the fashion industry


While it’s promising to witness fashion institutions addressing sustainability on global platforms, there’s a deep concern about greenwashing. True sustainability isn’t a marketing tactic; it’s a fundamental shift in values, production methods, and consumer behaviour. Which we failed to witness so far. When mainstream brands adopt sustainability as a buzzword without genuine commitment, they dilute the essence of real change.

The authentic roots of sustainability


A genuine, sustainable culture in fashion starts as a counter-culture, born from grassroots movements, independent designers and shops, and community-driven initiatives. It’s radical, disruptive, and not easily co-opted by corporate agendas. These movements champion transparency, good quality, ethical production, and circular economies. 

The power of the counterculture


History has shown that meaningful change often originates from the fringes, where unconventional ideas take root. These movements challenge the status quo, paving the way for a new fashion narrative that prioritises craftsmanship, durability, ethical practices, and a deeper understanding of the environmental impact.

Shifting perspectives and empowering choices


As consumers, we hold significant power in shaping the fashion industry. Embracing a more sustainable mindset involves supporting independent, ethical brands, vintage and secondhand fashion, and demanding transparency from big corporations. It’s about making informed choices that align with our values and contribute positively to a more sustainable future.

The fact that fashion entities participate in events like COP28 can create a false impression of sustainability – the greenwashing effect, indeed. However, real change happens through the efforts of communities, alternative movements, designers and shops that prioritise quality – less, much less but better – not overconsumption. 

Eventually, we must remember that we vote with our wallets; that’s how we shape the world we want. And that’s how we attest our commitment to sustainability.

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The Essence of Quality

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Spotlighting niche fashion brands in a mainstream market


In the labyrinth of modern consumerism, the line between quality and quantity is increasingly blurred, and the essence of quality is overlooked.

Brands – both big and small, compete for attention in a marketplace flooded with options. Amidst this deluge, an unfortunate casualty emerges: the capacity to discern quality.

Mainstream fashion: top brands vs fast fashion


On the one hand we have fast fashion: at the cheapest prices, quality is not a priority, as well as ethical practices. That encourages a disposable mindset where purchases are made without considering the repercussions of their swift discarding.
On the other hand, even within famous brands, a troubling trend surfaces: quality dilution. Perhaps they try to apply the principle of homeopathy to fashion! The research for cheaper production takes precedence, compromising the essence of what defines a superior product. This sacrifice leads to a paradox: a branded label no longer guarantees enduring quality or just quality.

Niche brands & the essence of quality


In this chaotic landscape, a beacon shines through: the small, lesser-known brands. These niche fashion brands uphold a different standard. Their ethos revolves not around mass production but good design. So meticulous craftsmanship, tailoring, and quality materials. A commitment to excellence and sustainable practices. However, this dedication comes with a price. Therefore, their offering is not for all. First, from a design perspective, as they promote a subtler approach, no prominent logos in favour of a more discreet or minimalist presentation. And second from the price point.

However, these brands offer a glimpse into a different narrative. One where quality triumphs over quantity, where every stitch and detail reflects an artisan’s dedication. They invite us to reconsider our approach to consumption, to reassess what truly defines value in our purchases.

In fact, to navigate this maze and rediscover our ability to discern quality, we must equip ourselves with knowledge. Understanding the hallmarks of craftsmanship, learning to identify materials and production processes, and valuing longevity over fleeting trends can guide us toward recognizing true quality amidst the noise.

In a world where fast fashion and mass production dominate, these niche fashion brands stand as reminders of the value of excellence. While their audience may be niche, their impact transcends the boundaries of commerce, urging us to recalibrate our perspectives and rediscover the essence of quality amidst the tumultuous sea of options.

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Fashion Creative Roots

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The significance of creativity for the fashion industry


In the wake of Giancarlo Giammetti’s observations, the discourse around fashion creative roots gains further depth when considering the overarching exits of industry creative giants like Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang, and the perspectives of Akira Onokuza, the mind behind Zucca. Their departures were not only about individual choices but symbolic of a larger shift in the fashion paradigm. Specifically, the industry moved from creativity to financial metrics.

Creativity & the current fashion industry:


1. Financial Focus versus Creativity: 

Put into perspective, Martin Margiela, Akira Onozuka, or Helmut Lang’s exits resonate with Giammetti’s comments. Their departures from the industry were not merely personal decisions but reflections of a system that prioritises sales forecasts and mass production over artistic expression and innovation. This departure of creative visionaries underscores the broader trend affecting the industry’s core.

2. Consequences of Overproduction: 

Akira Onokuza’s statement to Brutus Japan in 2021 about pervasive overproduction: “People are overproducing anything and everything,” further accentuates the problem. In fact, the industry’s obsession with churning out excessive quantities, fueled by consumerism, has led to environmental degradation and a devaluation of creativity in the pursuit of profit margins.

3. Reinforcing the Commitment to Change: 

These departures and insights reinforce our conviction that the fashion system must undergo a radical reevaluation. By advocating for limited production, emphasising quality craftsmanship, and prioritising sustainability, we stand with industry leaders who focus on creativity and conscientious consumption.

Creative essence: the core of fashion


In short, the departure of iconic designers and industry voices like Martin Margiela, Helmut Lang, and Akira Onokuza (to mention some of the true geniuses) serve as poignant reminders of the urgent need to shift the fashion industry’s focus. By staying steadfast in our commitment to a redefined value on creativity, craftsmanship, and sustainability, we aim to contribute to the revival of a meaningful fashion.

As fashion strayed from its creative origins, its essence eroded into a pursuit solely driven by financial gain. Therefore, restoring a connection with creativity, its core – is the first step toward achieving sustainability. Only through the reclamation of its creative roots will the fashion industry find purpose and direction.

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Threads of Change

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Elevating fashion with purposeful design and limited quantities


In this exploration, we delve into the threads of change, the transformative power of good design and limited quantities. Join us on a journey where fashion intersects with purpose, quality, and conscious consumption.

The British Fashion Council recently unveiled the winners of the Fashion Awards 2023, an event that celebrates the forefront of fashion and serves as a fundraiser for the BFC Foundation Charity. This gala not only spotlights creative talent but also underscores the pivotal role of fashion at the crossroads of culture and entertainment.

One of the most notable moments of the evening was the tribute to Valentino Garavani for his outstanding contribution to fashion. The celebration was marked by a spectacular fashion show featuring 24 iconic red dresses, all set against the backdrop of “An evening at the opera with Valentino.” This ballet, filmed in his hometown of Voghera, paid homage to his legacy, even dedicating the local theater to his name.
Giancarlo Giammetti, Valentino’s lifetime business partner, received the award on his behalf. His interview to the Financial Times Fashion is a lesson on contemporary fashion industry.

Fashion, culture and change


In our journey through the blogging world, we’ve consistently emphasised the intrinsic connection between fashion and broader cultural themes. While this relationship might not be immediately evident to everyone, we firmly believe it exists.

Our message has been clear: fashion is not merely about an endless array of clothing and accessories. Endless catalogues with tons of options, or stores packed with clothes with the consequent need to push people to shop more and more.
Meaningful fashion, to us, embodies the principles of slow fashion, handcrafted garments, precise tailoring, and, above all, limited quantities. This approach isn’t just an aesthetic choice; it’s the cornerstone of sustainability within the fashion industry.

It’s crucial to distinguish true sustainability from what often amounts to greenwashing. In fact, brands or stores claiming sustainability while continuing to overproduce garments are missing the mark entirely.

However, reflecting on Giancarlo Giammetti‘s recent interview in the Financial Times resonates deeply with us. His sentiments echo the very challenges we face in today’s culture, which seems distant from this vision.

Giammetti’s words, particularly, strike a chord:

“We left because the industry changed and meetings were all about money, not design. Sales forecasts decided what got created. The conglomerates made each label work to the same model. We couldn’t launch today. If we did, we’d be doing slow fashion, inviting fewer people to buy, at the highest quality. You don’t have to be judged on the number of dresses you make. And sustainability must be everyone’s preoccupation right now.”

via Financial Times Fashion
Giancarlo Giammetti

In fact, our radical fashion proposition and business model sometimes feel demotivating in a world fixated on overconsumption. But Giammetti’s stance is a comforting reminder. Indeed, it reaffirms our belief: embracing a model based on good design, quality and limited quantity.

These threads of change are a pivotal shift towards a more conscious and sustainable fashion industry. Embracing this ethos isn’t merely a choice; it’s a statement—a commitment to crafting a better, more responsible future through our fashion choices.

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