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Ahou Daryaei: Say Her Name!

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Mandatory hijab laws – Iran isn’t a country for women


Ahou Daryaei: Say Her Name! Say the name of Ahou Daryaei. Say it aloud. Her name joins a list of brave women fighting for their rights in a country where expressing freedom means risking one’s life. We remember Mahsa Amini, who died after being arrested for not properly wearing her hijab. And now, yet another appalling incident confronts us with a painful truth: Iran isn’t a safe place for women.

Ahou Daryaei is a 30-year-old student at Tehran’s Azad University. Her “crime”? Allegedly violating hijab laws. During a confrontation with university security, Daryaei was harassed by members of the Basij, a volunteer paramilitary group, who reportedly tore off her headscarf and clothes. So, in a defiant act of protest, Daryaei chose to remove her clothes, challenging an unjust system from within the very grounds of her university. In response, she was brutally beaten and detained by the “Morality Police,” who publicly declared that she is mentally unstable. The university’s public relations director claimed she suffers from mental health issues, an accusation frequently levelled against women who defy Iran’s strict moral codes. (CNN)

Image of a mural of Ahou Daryaei by aleXsandro Palombo in front of the Iranian consulate in Milan
Mural of Ahou Daryaei by aleXsandro Palombo in front of the Iranian consulate in Milan.

International outcry for Ahou Daryaei


News of Daryaei’s courageous stand spread rapidly, igniting widespread anger and sparking calls for justice from human rights advocates across the globe. In fact, Amnesty International has demanded her immediate release, while the UN Special Rapporteur on human rights in Iran has confirmed that her case is under close observation. Also, Iranian actresses, activists, and students have shown solidarity, underscoring the urgency of protecting personal freedoms and dignity.

The reality behind the “mental disorder” label


But how many times have we heard that a woman challenging injustice is “mentally unstable”? In the Islamic Republic, there is a profound gender apartheid. Specifically, under Iran’s rigid interpretation of Islamic law, the hijab is mandatory for all women in public spaces, enforced by the country’s morality police. But even minor infractions can lead to severe punishment. So, labelling these women as “insane” is a tactic to discredit their courage and silence their voices.

Conclusion


If patriarchy is entrenched across much of the world, in Iran, it’s institutionalised. So, say her name: Ahou Daryaei. She isn’t insane. She is a fighter for freedom, an emblem of resistance in a land that refuses to let women live freely. Amnesty International demands her release, and we echo that call. Stand with her – demand her release.

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Valencia’s Nightmare: Catastrophic Flooding & Human Inaction

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Climate change: what do we do with the information?


Valencia’s nightmare of catastrophic flooding wreaking havoc underscores a grim truth about climate change. Despite mounting evidence, human inaction remains the norm. 

So, “what do we do with the information?”
Rupert Read, author and professor of philosophy, poses this question as he reflects on this tragedy.

Valencia’s nightmare: flooding wreak havoc


In the span of just eight hours, Valencia was hit with a year’s worth of rain, resulting in more than 200 deaths. But this brutal event isn’t an isolated incident. Indeed, it mirrors extreme weather patterns seen in Italy and across the globe. And yet, our response remains inadequate in the face of such overwhelming evidence. There is a disturbing trend of growing numbness. A tendency to witness these catastrophes from a distance, accepting them as a new normal.

Climate emergency & humans inaction


Rupert Read’s poignant words, shared in a recent video, go straight to the heart of the issue:

“How do we handle the fact that people are suffering immensely because of the climate crisis and the response to that suffering doesn’t seem to be adequate? This is a very important dimension of the crisis that I don’t think has been fully understood yet. There is a gap between the amount of response, the amount in this case of, say, sadness we are feeling on the one hand, and the appropriate amount, on the other hand, of us collectively as a society, as a civilization. There isn’t nearly enough in the mass media about the immense suffering that the Spanish people are going through right now. And, about what it should mean to us.

Consider the idea of us being in a climate and ecological emergency, as a good reason for saying that we are, we are not treating collectively as an emergency. There is a gap between the actual emergency and the extent to which it’s being treated as an emergency.”


Read calls this crisis a “meta-emergency,” where our inability to treat the situation with the urgency it deserves amplifies the problem itself. He notes, “The meta-emergency is that we are not treating the emergency as an emergency. And that makes it so much worse. If we were responding adequately, we would be in a much better position than the one we find ourselves in today.”

In Read’s view, our collective failure to grasp the full scope of our environmental crisis is staggering. And this lack of recognition is a critical part of the problem. “This is the most troubling aspect of our failure,” he argues, “that it hasn’t even been fully recognized as a failure.” He advocates for a sweeping public inquiry on a global scale – a massive truth and reconciliation commission for climate, to understand how we’ve allowed things to go so terribly wrong for so long.

The emotional toll of these events also warrants attention. Read observes that our sadness, worry, and anger for the Spanish people don’t suffice. Instead, he identifies a secondary layer of sadness – “meta-sadness” – which arises from the inadequacy of our emotional response to these events.

What solution does Rupert Read offer?


So, Valencia’s nightmare of catastrophic flooding make us sad or angry but that is not enough. Read suggests that by recognizing our “meta-sadness” – our grief over our collective emotional inadequacy – we put ourselves in a better position to act. By acknowledging our insufficient responses, we open the door to more meaningful action. It’s a call to move beyond passive observation. And to challenge the systems that perpetuate this cycle of apathy and inaction.

This awareness could be the first step toward bridging the gap between understanding the problem and taking the decisive action required to address it.

Ultimately, only a true, intense, and profound awareness can wake us from this torpor, and push us toward collective action.

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The Trivialization of Luxury: A Growing Threat to High-End Brands

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Chanel’s head of watches and jewelery warns of a ‘Crisis in Luxury’


While economic factors continue to erode luxury growth, a far more insidious threat looms, the trivialization of luxury itself. In a recent interview with Le Temps, Frédéric Grangié, Chanel’s Head of Watches and Jewelry, offered a noteworthy assessment of the industry’s shifting landscape.

Grangié warns that the luxury industry is facing a crisis, one that extends beyond temporary economic slowdowns. This shift is reshaping the allure of exclusivity, as luxury loses its mystique and customers grow weary of high-end brands.

2025 and 2026 forecast complicated years for the luxury industry


In recent years, luxury has seen impressive growth in China. But now two critical factors – an economic slowdown spurred by a real estate crisis and high youth unemployment – have slowed demand. However, Grangié’s analysis goes further. He argues that the issue stems from factors like the economic and geopolitical climate, as well as the overdistribution of luxury brands saturating key markets. Yet, an even deeper threat looms: luxury fatigue. 

This fatigue is “a feeling that affects mature markets, where customers are beginning to question the meaning of this sector.” “While economic and geopolitical issues are cyclical and will pass,” Grangié says, “this crisis will impact our business more deeply.” In fact, “customers are tired of being fleeced by luxury.”

So, looking to 2025 and 2026, Grangié anticipates turbulent times ahead, with crises in the luxury sector likely to become “more frequent.” To navigate these challenges, he insists brands must adopt a focus on creativity and make bold, long-term choices that reestablish the value of exclusivity.

By the way, we previously addressed the topic of luxury in one of our posts: Luxury is Dead, which we invite you to read again.

Conclusion: how to overcome the luxury trivialization


The luxury market faces a crisis. Although optimistic voices like Carlo Capasa, President of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, project a recovery by late 2025, this seems uncertain. For Grangié, the issue isn’t merely an economic downturn or geopolitical tension. It’s the growing trivialization of luxury.

His response is clear: genuine creativity and a long-term strategy are the only paths forward if luxury brands hope to recapture their essence and survive the mounting crisis.

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Why Recycling Fast Fashion Isn’t the Solution: An Industry on the Brink

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Europe’s textile crisis shows the limits of recycling in the age of ultra-fast fashion


Recycling is a key component for achieving a sustainable fashion industry, yet the rise of fast and ultra-fast fashion has pushed Europe’s textile recycling sector to the breaking point. In fact, a harsh truth has emerged: recycling low-cost, mass-produced garments is often both economically and environmentally unfeasible.

Recently, the European Recycling Industries’ Confederation (EuRIC) and Municipal Waste Europe (MWE) have issued an urgent call for financial and legislative support. Specifically, they warned that the current structure of fast fashion renders much of the textile waste essentially “unrecyclable.”

Ultra-fast fashion relies on cheaply produced, low-quality materials, which often combine synthetic and natural fibres. These blends complicate recycling, as separating materials is time-intensive and costly. Most concerning is the sheer volume of waste generated by the fast fashion industry, which overwhelms recycling facilities. At the same time, low-quality textiles degrade quickly, making them unsuitable for reuse.

This unsustainable model has led to a crisis, with EU textile exports plummeting and warehouses overflowing with unsellable items that may soon face incineration.

EuRIC and MWE argue that recycling alone cannot solve the issue of textile waste in Europe. Instead, the industry needs policy reform to address the root cause. Therefore, they urge EU policymakers to lower VAT for textile repair and reuse while introducing taxes on new petroleum-based materials to discourage fast fashion production. Also, the organisations call for stricter regulations to help curb waste from the outset. For instace, mandatory minimum recycled content for all new textiles.

In conclusion, without immediate intervention, Europe’s textile recycling industry could face severe setbacks, undermining its climate goals and threatening the future of sustainable fashion. Prioritising waste reduction, ethical production, and quality over quantity is essential to preserving both the industry – and the planet.

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The Game of Musical Chairs and its Impact on Consumers

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Fashion reshuffling: an industry lost in translation, struggling to grasp the change


As 1Granary shares their Halloween-themed take on “Creative Director Musical Chairs,” the game of musical chairs in fashion, we felt it was the perfect moment to revisit our original blog post from July 29, 2024 – covering this topic.

These days, we are witnessing a fashion reshuffling, a game of musical chairs that mirrors the unserious behaviour of politics. Indeed, by hopping from chair to chair, trying not to lose visibility or power, fashion imitates politics.

The turbulence of fashion creative directors’ reshuffling


Recent news reports that Peter Hawkings is stepping down from his role at Tom Ford, Galliano will exit Margiela next autumn, and Virginie Viard has just left Chanel. Where are they headed next? Here and there, come and go. The industry is abuzz with speculation. In fashion, as in politics, enjoy the game!

This excessive mixing has significant effects: brands lose consistency, and consumer trust erodes. In fact, the original design codes and unique DNA that identified each Maison become blurred, making the brands look all the same. But egos are bigger than ever in the fashion industry. And so, keeping the chair – whatever it is – is the ultimate goal for designers.

Entering the era of creative directors frequent changes


It seems we are entering an era of frequent changes in fashion Maisons. This constant reshuffling and the game of musical chairs is becoming the norm. While a designer moving to a new brand might result in a short-term revenue boost, in the long run, brands lose consistency and integrity, risking their image. But for many designers, this game is the lifeblood of their egos.

However, the market for luxury goods is slowing down. Even strong brands and corporations struggle mainly because of the declining demand from Chinese and US clients. Additionally, a probe has linked brands such as Armani and Dior to sweatshops. Of course, they are not the only ones exploiting labour. Sadly, the practice is familiar to modern corporations. So talking about who goes where is the easiest way to avoid discussing these fundamental issues.

In light of this, we wonder: can the CEOs feel the deep change occurring in the fashion industry? Can they sense the earthquake shaking the foundation of a fashion system that has lost its way? Is it possible that consumers are realising luxury is no longer what it once was?

Creative directors & the game of musical chairs


In conclusion, to combat the industry’s slowdown, fashion houses are increasingly relying on the vision of creative directors, leading to frequent rotations at the helm of major Maisons. However, this fashion reshuffling addresses only a symptom of a much deeper issue: the loss of luxury’s true essence and the collapse of an outdated and inflexible system. 

Ultimately, can the industry believe that this game of musical chairs will resurrect the fortunes of its once-glorious past?

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