Explorations

Ujoh: The Essence of Contemporary Tailoring

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Discover the designer duo’s vision for modern, minimalist fashion


This fall/winter season at suite123, we’re excited to introduce Ujoh – a Japanese brand that captures the essence of contemporary tailoring through an innovative approach to fashion design. With clean lines, thoughtful silhouettes, and precise attention to detail, Ujoh redefines tailoring for today’s world.

Founded by designer duo Mitsuru Nishizaki and Aco, who also share their lives outside of fashion, Ujoh embodies a blend of personal and professional harmony. Indeed, their partnership results in a design language that seamlessly balances form and function. So, they create pieces that reflect a shared vision of modern elegance.

Let’s dive deeper into what makes Ujoh unique and why this Japanese fashion brand deserves a place in your wardrobe.

Image of Ujoh designer duo Mitsuru Nishizaki and Aco, greeting the audience after their SS25 fashion show at the Paris fashion week showing the essence of contemporary tailoring
Ujoh – designer duo Mitsuru Nishizaki and Aco

Ujoh: brand story


After years as skilled pattern makers, Mitsuru Nishizaki and Aco founded UJOH in 2009. The brand respects clean lines yet introduces a fresh, innovative perspective on tailoring, intentionally defying convention with asymmetrical and bold cuts. Specifically, UJOH’s sophisticated aesthetic unfolds as it explores the dynamic relationship between body and clothing, blending technical mastery with designs that harmonize with the human form. In fact, every collection showcases meticulously refined details, creating distinctive styling and layering options. In 2019, UJOH launched its men’s line, thoughtfully incorporating elements from traditional clothing motifs like uniforms and military wear. All while staying true to the essence of expert tailoring. The brand debuted at Paris Fashion Week with its 2021 Fall/Winter Collection. And continues to present each season in Paris, bringing its unique vision to an international audience.

The essence of contemporary tailoring


Ultimately, UJOH reshapes tailoring by focusing on structure and lightness through the cutting. And so, utilising signature techniques specific to the brand, the collection merges sleek design with effortless comfort.

Experience the essence of contemporary tailoring with our curated selection from Ujoh, each piece thoughtfully chosen to showcase the brand’s distinctive style. 

Feel free to reach out for more details – we’re here to assist!

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Ahou Daryaei: Say Her Name!

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Mandatory hijab laws – Iran isn’t a country for women


Ahou Daryaei: Say Her Name! Say the name of Ahou Daryaei. Say it aloud. Her name joins a list of brave women fighting for their rights in a country where expressing freedom means risking one’s life. We remember Mahsa Amini, who died after being arrested for not properly wearing her hijab. And now, yet another appalling incident confronts us with a painful truth: Iran isn’t a safe place for women.

Ahou Daryaei is a 30-year-old student at Tehran’s Azad University. Her “crime”? Allegedly violating hijab laws. During a confrontation with university security, Daryaei was harassed by members of the Basij, a volunteer paramilitary group, who reportedly tore off her headscarf and clothes. So, in a defiant act of protest, Daryaei chose to remove her clothes, challenging an unjust system from within the very grounds of her university. In response, she was brutally beaten and detained by the “Morality Police,” who publicly declared that she is mentally unstable. The university’s public relations director claimed she suffers from mental health issues, an accusation frequently levelled against women who defy Iran’s strict moral codes. (CNN)

Image of a mural of Ahou Daryaei by aleXsandro Palombo in front of the Iranian consulate in Milan
Mural of Ahou Daryaei by aleXsandro Palombo in front of the Iranian consulate in Milan.

International outcry for Ahou Daryaei


News of Daryaei’s courageous stand spread rapidly, igniting widespread anger and sparking calls for justice from human rights advocates across the globe. In fact, Amnesty International has demanded her immediate release, while the UN Special Rapporteur on human rights in Iran has confirmed that her case is under close observation. Also, Iranian actresses, activists, and students have shown solidarity, underscoring the urgency of protecting personal freedoms and dignity.

The reality behind the “mental disorder” label


But how many times have we heard that a woman challenging injustice is “mentally unstable”? In the Islamic Republic, there is a profound gender apartheid. Specifically, under Iran’s rigid interpretation of Islamic law, the hijab is mandatory for all women in public spaces, enforced by the country’s morality police. But even minor infractions can lead to severe punishment. So, labelling these women as “insane” is a tactic to discredit their courage and silence their voices.

Conclusion


If patriarchy is entrenched across much of the world, in Iran, it’s institutionalised. So, say her name: Ahou Daryaei. She isn’t insane. She is a fighter for freedom, an emblem of resistance in a land that refuses to let women live freely. Amnesty International demands her release, and we echo that call. Stand with her – demand her release.


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Valencia’s Nightmare: Catastrophic Flooding & Human Inaction

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Climate change: what do we do with the information?


Valencia’s nightmare of catastrophic flooding wreaking havoc underscores a grim truth about climate change. Despite mounting evidence, human inaction remains the norm. 

So, “what do we do with the information?”
Rupert Read, author and professor of philosophy, poses this question as he reflects on this tragedy.

Valencia’s nightmare: flooding wreak havoc


In the span of just eight hours, Valencia was hit with a year’s worth of rain, resulting in more than 200 deaths. But this brutal event isn’t an isolated incident. Indeed, it mirrors extreme weather patterns seen in Italy and across the globe. And yet, our response remains inadequate in the face of such overwhelming evidence. There is a disturbing trend of growing numbness. A tendency to witness these catastrophes from a distance, accepting them as a new normal.

Climate emergency & humans inaction


Rupert Read’s poignant words, shared in a recent video, go straight to the heart of the issue:

“How do we handle the fact that people are suffering immensely because of the climate crisis and the response to that suffering doesn’t seem to be adequate? This is a very important dimension of the crisis that I don’t think has been fully understood yet. There is a gap between the amount of response, the amount in this case of, say, sadness we are feeling on the one hand, and the appropriate amount, on the other hand, of us collectively as a society, as a civilization. There isn’t nearly enough in the mass media about the immense suffering that the Spanish people are going through right now. And, about what it should mean to us.

Consider the idea of us being in a climate and ecological emergency, as a good reason for saying that we are, we are not treating collectively as an emergency. There is a gap between the actual emergency and the extent to which it’s being treated as an emergency.”


Read calls this crisis a “meta-emergency,” where our inability to treat the situation with the urgency it deserves amplifies the problem itself. He notes, “The meta-emergency is that we are not treating the emergency as an emergency. And that makes it so much worse. If we were responding adequately, we would be in a much better position than the one we find ourselves in today.”

In Read’s view, our collective failure to grasp the full scope of our environmental crisis is staggering. And this lack of recognition is a critical part of the problem. “This is the most troubling aspect of our failure,” he argues, “that it hasn’t even been fully recognized as a failure.” He advocates for a sweeping public inquiry on a global scale – a massive truth and reconciliation commission for climate, to understand how we’ve allowed things to go so terribly wrong for so long.

The emotional toll of these events also warrants attention. Read observes that our sadness, worry, and anger for the Spanish people don’t suffice. Instead, he identifies a secondary layer of sadness – “meta-sadness” – which arises from the inadequacy of our emotional response to these events.

What solution does Rupert Read offer?


So, Valencia’s nightmare of catastrophic flooding make us sad or angry but that is not enough. Read suggests that by recognizing our “meta-sadness” – our grief over our collective emotional inadequacy – we put ourselves in a better position to act. By acknowledging our insufficient responses, we open the door to more meaningful action. It’s a call to move beyond passive observation. And to challenge the systems that perpetuate this cycle of apathy and inaction.

This awareness could be the first step toward bridging the gap between understanding the problem and taking the decisive action required to address it.

Ultimately, only a true, intense, and profound awareness can wake us from this torpor, and push us toward collective action.


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The Trivialization of Luxury: A Growing Threat to High-End Brands

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Chanel’s head of watches and jewelery warns of a ‘Crisis in Luxury’


While economic factors continue to erode luxury growth, a far more insidious threat looms, the trivialization of luxury itself. In a recent interview with Le Temps, Frédéric Grangié, Chanel’s Head of Watches and Jewelry, offered a noteworthy assessment of the industry’s shifting landscape.

Grangié warns that the luxury industry is facing a crisis, one that extends beyond temporary economic slowdowns. This shift is reshaping the allure of exclusivity, as luxury loses its mystique and customers grow weary of high-end brands.

2025 and 2026 forecast complicated years for the luxury industry


In recent years, luxury has seen impressive growth in China. But now two critical factors – an economic slowdown spurred by a real estate crisis and high youth unemployment – have slowed demand. However, Grangié’s analysis goes further. He argues that the issue stems from factors like the economic and geopolitical climate, as well as the overdistribution of luxury brands saturating key markets. Yet, an even deeper threat looms: luxury fatigue. 

This fatigue is “a feeling that affects mature markets, where customers are beginning to question the meaning of this sector.” “While economic and geopolitical issues are cyclical and will pass,” Grangié says, “this crisis will impact our business more deeply.” In fact, “customers are tired of being fleeced by luxury.”

So, looking to 2025 and 2026, Grangié anticipates turbulent times ahead, with crises in the luxury sector likely to become “more frequent.” To navigate these challenges, he insists brands must adopt a focus on creativity and make bold, long-term choices that reestablish the value of exclusivity.

By the way, we previously addressed the topic of luxury in one of our posts: Luxury is Dead, which we invite you to read again.

Conclusion: how to overcome the luxury trivialization


The luxury market faces a crisis. Although optimistic voices like Carlo Capasa, President of the Italian Chamber of Fashion, project a recovery by late 2025, this seems uncertain. For Grangié, the issue isn’t merely an economic downturn or geopolitical tension. It’s the growing trivialization of luxury.

His response is clear: genuine creativity and a long-term strategy are the only paths forward if luxury brands hope to recapture their essence and survive the mounting crisis.


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Why Recycling Fast Fashion Isn’t the Solution: An Industry on the Brink

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Europe’s textile crisis shows the limits of recycling in the age of ultra-fast fashion


Recycling is a key component for achieving a sustainable fashion industry, yet the rise of fast and ultra-fast fashion has pushed Europe’s textile recycling sector to the breaking point. In fact, a harsh truth has emerged: recycling low-cost, mass-produced garments is often both economically and environmentally unfeasible.

Recently, the European Recycling Industries’ Confederation (EuRIC) and Municipal Waste Europe (MWE) have issued an urgent call for financial and legislative support. Specifically, they warned that the current structure of fast fashion renders much of the textile waste essentially “unrecyclable.”

Ultra-fast fashion relies on cheaply produced, low-quality materials, which often combine synthetic and natural fibres. These blends complicate recycling, as separating materials is time-intensive and costly. Most concerning is the sheer volume of waste generated by the fast fashion industry, which overwhelms recycling facilities. At the same time, low-quality textiles degrade quickly, making them unsuitable for reuse.

This unsustainable model has led to a crisis, with EU textile exports plummeting and warehouses overflowing with unsellable items that may soon face incineration.

EuRIC and MWE argue that recycling alone cannot solve the issue of textile waste in Europe. Instead, the industry needs policy reform to address the root cause. Therefore, they urge EU policymakers to lower VAT for textile repair and reuse while introducing taxes on new petroleum-based materials to discourage fast fashion production. Also, the organisations call for stricter regulations to help curb waste from the outset. For instace, mandatory minimum recycled content for all new textiles.

In conclusion, without immediate intervention, Europe’s textile recycling industry could face severe setbacks, undermining its climate goals and threatening the future of sustainable fashion. Prioritising waste reduction, ethical production, and quality over quantity is essential to preserving both the industry – and the planet.


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