Explorations

Ujoh FW25/26 at PFW: A small act of rebellion

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Tailoring, layering, and the pursuit of freedom


The Ujoh FW25/26 collection, unveiled at the Palais de Tokyo during Paris Fashion Week, stands as one of the season’s most compelling visions. As heritage luxury brands struggle with creative identity—often reduced to absurd headlines about creative directors—emerging designers boldly redefine the narrative, bringing fresh concepts and deeper meaning to the fashion landscape.

Paris Fashion Week: Ujoh FW25/26 fashion show


For their Fall-Winter 2025 presentation, Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki of Ujoh drew inspiration from the formative years of Japanese youth, shaped by the ubiquitous school uniform. This collection is a homage to the ‘90s—a decade when high school students, quietly rebelling against the rigidity of established norms, began to craft their own sartorial identity. Through meticulous tailoring and innovative layering, Ujoh deconstructs these structured codes, revealing a profound sense of freedom and individuality.

In this reimagined wardrobe, silhouettes capture the stylistic defiance of the era. An oversized cardigan draped effortlessly over an asymmetric skirt challenged the rigidity of tradition. While fluid leg warmers echoed the iconic loose socks once emblematic of a generation’s quiet rebellion. These elements, both nostalgic and forward-thinking, speak to a spirit of nonconformity that continues to resonate powerfully today.

UJOH FW25/26 Paris Fashion Week – Watch the show


The collection masterfully blended structured uniformity with deconstructed details, reimagining Ujoh’s signature asymmetric tailoring. Suiting, a house staple, appeared in wool gabardine and soft brushed flannel, with cropped, tab-fronted jackets in brown, grey, and navy paired with half-skirts or shorts, accented by bursts of lime or sky blue. Hybrid collars merged classic tailoring with sailor-inspired necklines, while oversized rugby sweaters and pleated skirts echoed the spirit of schoolyard rebellion.

Nostalgic yet inventive details abounded: slouched leg warmers, glossy quilted skirts in recycled polyamide, and a delicate black floral embroidery on a bias-cut skirt—a nod to tulip bulbs given to Japanese schoolchildren. Textural depth came through in handwoven jacquards and layered faux-fur coats, while a standout black shearling aviator jacket highlighted Ujoh’s outerwear prowess.

The show closed with models casually seated on vintage classroom chairs, chatting and laughing—a moment of carefree spontaneity that perfectly captured the collection’s balance of structure and rebellion. Ujoh’s FW25/26 was a heartfelt ode to youthful defiance, blending past and present with effortless charm.

Final toughts


The Ujoh FW25/26 collection at Paris Fashion Week was more than just a display of innovative tailoring and layered silhouettes. It was a celebration of freedom and individuality. By revisiting the quiet rebellions of ‘90s Japanese youth, the designer duo crafted a narrative that feels both deeply personal and universally resonant. In a fashion landscape where heritage brands grapple with inconsistency, Ujoh stands out as a bold voice of reinvention, proving that true luxury lies in the courage to defy norms and embrace the unexpected. This collection was more than an homage to the past; it was a compelling vision for the future—one where rebellion and refinement coexist in perfect harmony.

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Seasonless garments: The art of dressing beyond the calendar

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A guide to building a wardrobe that works year-round


Seasonless dressing offers a smarter, more sustainable approach to fashion, championing garments that transcend seasonal limitations while remaining relevant and versatile year-round.

Yet, for many, the concept remains elusive. Fashion is often perceived as a seasonal affair, dictated by shifting trends and ever-changing collections. The constant demand for newness still dominates. So, items carried forward over time are not understood or appreciated. But true style isn’t about keeping up with fleeting trends—it’s about adaptability, longevity, and building a wardrobe that works effortlessly in any season.

It’s no secret that sustainability has vanished from corporate agendas. But climate change is a reality, making mindful consumption more urgent than ever. That’s why, at suite123 Milano, we remain committed to our values, advocating for fashion that respects both people and the planet—because the true cost of style should never be our future.

What does ‘seasonless’ really mean?


Seasonless garments are timeless, versatile pieces designed to be worn all year round. They are not confined to a specific trend or weather condition but instead adapt seamlessly through functionality, layering, and styling.

Think of them as the backbone of your wardrobe—reliable, adaptable, and always in style. A well-cut mannish shirt or a silk dress, for instance, transitions effortlessly from summer, worn with sandals, to winter, layered with tights and boots.

The practical magic of seasonless garments


Beyond aesthetics, seasonless dressing offers tangible benefits:

  • Cost-effective: Investing in timeless pieces reduces the need for constant new purchases, ultimately saving money and cutting down waste.
  • Space-saving: A curated wardrobe of versatile items means less clutter and a stronger focus on what truly matters.
  • Effortless styling: Thoughtfully designed pieces mix and match with ease, making getting dressed easier and more intuitive.

A deeper emotional connection: A style that grows with you


Seasonless garments are more than just clothes—they are companions that evolve with you. They tell a story of intentionality and thoughtful selection, reflecting a lifestyle that values quality over quantity. By choosing seasonless pieces, you are not merely dressing for the present moment; you are curating a wardrobe that stands the test of time. A wardrobe for life that tells the story of you.

How to embrace seasonless dressing


Building a seasonless wardrobe is simpler than it seems. Here’s how:

  • Prioritise fabrics: Choose natural, breathable materials like cotton, linen, wool, and silk, which regulate temperature and adapt to different climates.
  • Embrace versatile colours: Choose shades that complement each other, allowing for effortless mixing and matching.
  • Master layering: A single piece can be styled for multiple seasons—for instance, a lightweight blazer worn over a summer dress in spring or paired with a turtleneck in winter. Specifically, layering means adding or removing pieces depending on the weather or your own perception of it.
  • Use accessories wisely: Scarves, belts, and jewellery can refresh the look of seasonless staples, adding variety without excess.

The bigger picture: Seasonless garments are a sustainable choice


Above all, seasonless dressing is a quiet rebellion against fast fashion. Here’s why it matters:

  • Investing in garments that last beyond a single season reduces environmental impact.
  • It challenges the relentless cycle of overconsumption, encouraging a slower, more intentional approach to fashion.
  • It is not just a passing trend but a movement towards a more mindful, sustainable future.

Conclusion: Seasonless garments – A call to action


With sustainability fading from corporate agendas, the power to drive change lies with you. We invite you to rethink your approach to fashion—not as a seasonal cycle of consumption, but as a mindful, personal, and sustainable practice.

Seasonless garments are a smart, stylish, and responsible choice—one that aligns with your values and enhances your lifestyle. After all, true style isn’t about keeping up with seasons; it’s about building a wardrobe that works for you, all year round.

Ready to take the first step?
📲 Get in touch via email or WhatsApp to explore our curated selection of seasonless pieces. We’re here to help you make the shift.

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PFW FW25: What heritage brands teach us about identity and timelessness

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How heritage brands stay relevant without radical reinvention


As Paris Fashion Week FW25 comes to a close, we reflect on what heritage brands reveal about identity and timelessness.

One of the most striking aspects of this season was the renewed sense of identity—a quality that had been diluted in recent years, causing brands to lose what once set them apart. Now, more than ever, brands seem to require flexible, inspired approaches rather than rigid strategies or merely marketing-driven narratives.

Equally noteworthy was the restrained nature of many shows, with a noticeable reduction in unnecessary excess. While this could suggest a shift towards more mindful practices, it reflects financial caution in uncertain times rather than a commitment to sustainability. Indeed, sustainability appeared to have lost its place as a key marketing tool.

Heritage brands: Let’s talk style, not just designers


Chanel remained unmistakably Chanel, proving that heritage brands can thrive with a strong design team. Despite the absence of a creative director, the collection was impeccably conceived, weaving in the signature themes so dear to Madame Coco. (Watch the show here). For heritage houses, perhaps the real question is: should the focus be on the designer at the helm, or on the enduring style and craftsmanship?
That said, it will be interesting to see what Mathieu Blazy’s vision brings next spring.

Miu Miu, on the other hand, was quintessentially Miuccia. Feminine yet subversive, the collection channelled 1950s elegance with a rebellious edge—pointed bras, handbags carried in the crook of the arm, vintage-inspired accessories, and bold gold jewellery pieces. What could be more authentic than Miuccia Prada staying true to her vision for Miu Miu? Feminine, chic, and unmistakably hers—a strong, clear signature. (Watch the show here). However, we want to believe the furs are faux.

Final thoughts


In conclusion, heritage brands have shown that timelessness is not about radical reinvention but about staying true to a distinct identity. Chanel demonstrated that strong design can uphold a brand’s legacy, even without a star creative director, while Miu Miu reaffirmed the power of a designer with a clear, unwavering vision.

Perhaps this season signals a shift—not towards relentless reinvention, but towards refinement, consistency, and a deeper understanding of what makes a brand unique. In a landscape often dominated by marketing gimmicks, fashion may be rediscovering the value of authenticity.

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Paris Fashion Week FW25/26: a reaffirmation of identity

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Is identity boring or a thoughtful choice?


At Paris Fashion Week FW25/26, collections seemed to centre on a reaffirmation of brand identity. With the era of ‘Balenciagitis’—where many creative directors seemed infected by a uniform aesthetic—behind us, designers have returned to their distinct visions. But for heritage maisons, does this emphasis on identity feel stagnant, or is it a conscious, thoughtful approach?

Paris Fashion Week FW25/26: A stronger focus on identity 


One of the most anticipated debuts this season was Haider Ackermann for Tom Ford. Ackermann is a designer who understands his craft. In January 2023, he delivered a remarkable interpretation of Jean Paul Gaultier, demonstrating his ability to modernise a collection while staying true to the essence of a maison.

In fact, his debut at Tom Ford was no exception. The formula? Identity with audacity. A bold, commanding collection with a distinct brand DNA, executed with deep respect for the house’s legacy. The result? A resounding success—one that seems to have won over everyone, Tom Ford included. (Watch the show here).

On a similar note, Julian Klausner handled Dries Van Noten transition with a deep respect for its codes, proving that identity can be both preserved and evolved. (Watch the show here).

Chloé embraced modern romantic hippy-chic, with its iconic silk blouses and chiffon dresses catering to women of all ages. Chemena Kamali revitalised the brand after Gabriela Hearst, though we can only hope the furs were faux. (Watch the show here).

The standout moment


Our favourite? Sarah Burton’s debut at Givenchy—an absolutely breathtaking collection that felt like a breath of fresh air. A masterclass in blending the maison’s heritage, paying due respect to the founder while adding refined modernity, it exuded pure femininity through exquisite tailoring. Marvellous! (Watch the show here).

Where the PFW FW25/26 fell short


While Alexander McQueen was an improvement over the previous Spring/Summer show, it lacked strong pathos. Again, one wonders: should all brands strive for mass appeal? That was never the essence of McQueen.

Ann Demeulemeester? A disappointment.

And then, Valentino—or Valentucci? Or GVucci? A chaotic blend that echoed the marché aux puces aesthetic so characteristic of Alessandro Michele. Staging Valentino in a public toilet—an unsubtle metaphor for the house’s current trajectory? Once again, Michele seems to show little reverence for the houses he designs for—except for his own ego. Why entrust a storied maison to a costume designer? Given how things ended at Gucci, does this approach make any sense?

Final thoughts on Paris Fashion Week FW25/26: identity matters


In conclusion, Paris Fashion Week FW25/26 reaffirmed one key theme: identity matters. But what is the relationship between costume and identity? And how do you balance timelessness with continuous innovation?

We recently came across a post by 1Granary lamenting the lack of innovation in luxury brands. Yet, within the industry, many—including us—value the concept of timelessness over relentless reinvention. When the original founder or creative visionary is no longer at the helm, what remains? The brand’s DNA.

Reinforcing identity isn’t stagnation—it’s preservation of meaning. A brand’s DNA is its essence, the very thing thatmakes it unique. In an era obsessed with novelty, timelessness and slowness are values to protect—not obstacles to overcome.

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Indiscriminate discounts: a policy spinning out of control

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Camera Showroom Milano takes a stand to regulate discounts


We’ve often discussed the issue of indiscriminate discounts, a practice that has spiralled out of control. What was once a strategic tool for end-of-season sales has become a year-round phenomenon, undermining both economic and environmental sustainability.

Sales, in their current form, are a short-sighted strategy that fuels compulsive consumer behaviour and perpetuates a toxic production cycle. The fashion industry is a significant contributor to the triple planetary crisis: climate change, biodiversity loss, and pollution. Addressing unsustainable consumption and production patterns is a key focus of the UN’s recent guidelines. Against this backdrop, the initiative by Camera Showroom Milano (CSM) is a welcome step forward. 
Well, finally, we would say…

At first glance, year-round discounts might appear to benefit consumers. However, the reality is far more complex. Not only do they tarnish the image of Made in Italy, as CSM highlights, but they also harm end customers by devaluing products and fostering a culture of price-driven consumption over quality and craftsmanship.

Camera Showroom Milano: tackling indiscriminate discounts


In a recent press release, CSM highlighted how year-round discounts, now a common practice among retailers, are damaging the Made in Italy supply chain. Under current legislation, once retailers purchase goods, they are free to resell them at any price, including steep discounts, throughout the year.

This practice undermines the value of products and the creative effort behind them, while also destabilising the retail sector. It erodes trust between brands and consumers, as products are increasingly seen as disposable rather than desirable.

The issue is particularly acute for Made in Italy products distributed across the European market, where retailers often resell items without adhering to price regulations designed to protect brand integrity. As a result, the window for selling products at full price has shrunk to just two or three months, causing significant harm to individual retailers, the broader sector, and the entire supply chain.

CSM notes that the constant availability of discounts has transformed the purchase of fashion and Made in Italy products from a prestigious, intentional act into a race for the lowest price. This shift not only devalues the products but also undermines the industry’s long-term viability.

Proposed solutions: a call for collective action to end indiscriminate discounts


To address this issue, CSM is advocating for institutional support and the revival of specific agreements between manufacturers and retailers. These agreements would enforce brand-suggested retail prices until the official sales periods in July and January each year.

CSM emphasises the need for clear, shared rules to ensure discount policies align with market dynamics and respect the efforts of all stakeholders, from individual operators to the entire supply chain. Collective action, they argue, is essential to regulate the retail market effectively. This includes fostering collaboration between small and medium-sized manufacturers and sellers, with a focus on commercial loyalty. The goal is to maintain brand-recommended retail prices until the official sales periods begin, creating a fairer and more balanced market environment.

A deeper issue: the role of brands and showrooms


While CSM’s proposal is a step in the right direction, it raises a critical question: Are brands and showrooms prepared to stop demanding increasingly high budgets from retailers?

The current system operates in a vicious cycle (we explored the topic here). Brands set minimum budget requirements for retailers, which often increase season after season. To meet these demands, retailers purchase more than they can sell, leading to overstock. This overstock, in turn, drives up retail prices during the season to offset losses incurred during end-of-season sales.

To clear excess inventory, retailers resort to frequent promotions, markdowns, and discounts, further encouraging overconsumption. This cycle is self-perpetuating, linking production and consumption in a way that harms both the industry and the environment.

Among other things, a special mention should go to online retailers who disregard the rules and do as they please—Italians first and foremost.

Final thoughts on CSM and indiscriminate discounts


In conclusion, year-round sales and promotions are not just a symptom of a broken system; they are a driving force behind it. They encourage compulsive buying and sustain a production model that is both environmentally and economically unsustainable. To promote healthier consumption patterns, we must break this cycle.

While we applaud CSM’s efforts to curb indiscriminate discounts, real change will require a broader shift in the industry. Brands and showrooms must reconsider their demands on retailers, and all stakeholders must work together to create a system that values quality over quantity and sustainability over short-term gains.

Ultimately, the question remains: Is the fashion industry ready to take this bold step towards a more sustainable future?

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