contemporary culture

NO SALES

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The ultimate sustainable strategy


It’s the second year of our NO SALES resolution. If you come across our activity by chance, you may discover now that we do not participate in sales or promotions anymore.

What is the reason?


The market is hyper-saturated. Full to the brim of disposable clothing. Heavy discounts and obsessive promotions are indicators of a sick system. In fact, they reflect an economy whose basic assumption is overproduction. And compel the unceasing construction of fake needs for blind consumers. In other words, people are manipulated and induced to buy any discounted item.

Therefore, sales are not a sustainable strategy. The selling price should take into account creativity, quality and labour. Which also means fair wages for the production chain. We already discussed the trick of modern-day slavery in our previous posts.

Once we have realised the whole economic system is corrupted, as a consequence, we have reduced the quantity we order. And by refining our selection, we opted for a capsule wardrobe focused only on meaningful items.

This is what:


1 – we no longer need quantity
2 – we choose quality and good design
3 – we select items made to last

NO SALES

Quantity is not the answer, so we invite you to buy less.
Indeed, we suggest you buy intentionally and choose only thoughtful products.

We are here to make something different. To change for the better. And educate ourselves for slower consumption.
If the status quo is what you still want to promote, just look around. It surrounds you everywhere. You don’t need us.
But if you have lost that frenzy and search for value instead, we are here for you.

NO SALES


It’s the ultimate sustainable economic model for a long-term approach. That supports creativity, quality, and fair wages.

No sales mean less stuff, more meaning. It’s a radical and conscious lifestyle choice #formodernhumans

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The End Of Fur Farming in Italy

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A step towards banning animal abuse


Good news: it’s the end of fur farming in Italy. Yes, we’ll say it again: Italy has shut down fur farming.


Animal killing for fur production has been banned in Italy. Despite profit and vanity, every now and then, an ethical choice prevails.

It is a fact we do not need fur to warm our bodies anymore. And we have known it for a long time. Killing animals for the sole purpose of garnishing our clothing and accessories has completely lost its sense in our modern society. We are not primitives, and the era of the ’50s divas is gone. Furthermore, there are countless alternatives to keep the body warm when it’s cold or embellish our garments, all while avoiding that senseless cruelty.

So finally, in Italy too, the Government has passed a law to ban this horrendous practice. As of January 2022, the ban on fur farming, including the breeding and killing of minks, foxes, raccoons, chinchillas, and other animals for their fur, is officially in place in Italy. As a result, mink farms will be closed within six months.

Not all evil leads to harm


When the pandemic struck, many fur farms in the Netherlands reported numerous cases of Covid-19. It was soon revealed that minks were spreading the virus due to their heightened sensitivity to it. They could be infected and then transmit the virus in a mutated form, posing a significant risk to public health. Naturally, this discovery played a key role in the decision to close fur farming.

Many countries in Europe have already moved or are moving in that direction. But, even if they all banned fur production, it’s still possible to commercialise fur items everywhere. What’s the point? It is obvious that someone will benefit from this situation. And that “someone” is China.

The end of fur farming in Italy marks significant progress. This law is one step forward. However, banning fur farming is not enough. To solve this issue, a ban on commercialising fur items must follow.

Perpetrating animal abuse is a cruel practice – definitely NOT a choice #formodernhumans

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Wheelchair? Please, Don’t Come!

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana: fashion, disability and non-inclusion in the industry


Inclusion and diversity are topics to which we are particularly sensitive. However, we had to overcome a certain discomfort to share this story with you. But if we want to make a change, we have to open up on this matter.

We acknowledged that Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana holds an event, at its second edition, named: “Including Diversity”.

Specifically, on Sept 20th – today – Camera Moda will address diversity and inclusion to promote both matters within the Italian fashion system. If you happen to read about it, you might think the intent is noble and the words powerful. Everything seems on point.

Yes, agreed. If only words truly aligned with actions.

As we wrote in one of our recent posts, inclusion and diversity are much-discussed topics in the fashion field. We call them “the fashion bullshit” – because the smell of marketing is so strong. 

Inclusion and diversity: facts vs words 


After being diagnosed with a degenerative disease, I can report a much different reality about fashion and inclusion based on my personal experience. Indeed, as a wheelchair user, I can attest that not only showrooms lack accessibility but fashion events too. So, this means you have to rely on the empathy of the staff working there – and that empathy can’t always be taken for granted!

In September 2019 – Covid hit the previous season – I was consulting for a brand participating in one of the exhibitions connected to Camera Moda. The designer had received an invitation to an event dedicated to fashion buyers and emerging designers, and so, the designer extended the invitation to me. I couldn’t attend alone; I needed assistance with my wheelchair. Therefore, the designer informed the Camera Moda press office about the need for a plus-one, which, frankly, shouldn’t require much explanation. Should it?

Their response was that because of the pandemic, they had limited access, so I wasn’t allowed to bring another person with me. Naturally, this meant I couldn’t participate in the event.

My friends were shocked by the idea that I put myself in the position of asking permission. In the case of walking disability, plus-one is a fact, period. But I was afraid any reaction would cause problems for the brand I worked for.

Disappointed by that reply, I posted something on my Instagram. I was fuming, frustrated. Unable to respond as they deserved in that precise moment. Shortly after, a beautiful human DM’d me, asking if she had understood my message correctly.

Laura Mohapi, a talented artist based in London, offered her support. Also, she believed I had to address what happened and offered to write a letter to Camera Moda on my behalf. The thought of having to explain myself made me feel awful, even though I knew it was the right thing to do, so her offer was a much-needed gesture of kindness.

I read the letter she wrote, and it was like receiving a punch in my stomach. I pondered a lot. But eventually, I decided to forward it by email.

No response came to my inbox. Probably it went ignored. And so I sent a registered letter as well.

Disability in fashion: Wheelchair? Please, don’t come!


This time, the message got a little attention – though not much. Indeed, I received in my inbox a forwarded email – in English. They didn’t even bother to make an effort to copy and paste the English version they received into a new email. They paid zero attention to the form, which gave the impression that what happened had no relevance for them. Or perhaps, they weren’t familiar with how to handle official correspondence coming from the president of Camera Moda.

In the end, it took me nearly two years to find the courage to write about it. But the sadness, frustration, and disappointment I feel when I see those ‘Include Diversity’ events still make me sick to my stomach.

And so, Cri and I wonder: when they launch those events for the fashion industry, what do they truly mean?

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Change: Between Reality and Dream

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Post-pandemic fashion: illusions of change – A talk with Antonio Miranda


The alleged change brought in by the pandemic, and widely discussed in the fashion field, is mostly imanginary. We explored this topic in a conversation with Antonio Miranda, the designer behind the Anmi jewellery brand. With a lifetime of experience in fashion, Antonio offered unique insights into the industry.

Antonio invited us to the Piccolo Teatro to watch “Doppio Sogno” (Dream Story), by Arthur Schnitzler. Firstly, the show was absolutely stunning – far surpassing Kubrick’s film Eyes Wide Shut. Each character embodied multiple versions of oneself simultaneously, highlighting a dense psychoanalytical landscape. The interplay of mixed emotions and a profound flow of consciousness made the experience intensely captivating.
A special thank you to Ugo Fiore (assistant director and Antonio’s nephew) – we truly appreciated the opportunity!

However, before the show started, we exchanged some thoughts about fashion.

change
ANMI Collections – Made in Italy

Fashion and change


We quote Antonio Miranda:

“Those who changed because of the pandemic were already on that path before Covid19 hit. This is evident in the fact that most people either regressed or remained unchanged. And, look, in the fashion field, we talked endlessly about change. It seemed everything had to be different the following season. Well, now the fluff is even more pronounced.”

According to Anmi’s designer, those who changed were already sensitive to the topic. Somehow they were ready or at least open to it. In fact, they were on the route towards change. Therefore, the pandemic simply became the last drop or an invitation to take the next step.

But for the majority of people, nothing has changed – for the better, at least. And fashion remains stuck in the same cycle of emppty words – hot air, indeed.

In fact, the path towards change is individual. It is a matter of awareness and perspective. But, even though a shift in attitude depends on our journey, whatever our situation may be, we can get inspired by virtuous people and activities.

A play, a book, what we buy, define the universe we want. Let’s keep the door open, search for value, support and share it. That’s how we change!

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The Wind of Instachange

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Navigating fashion’s social media revolution


The fashion system needs to change. In fact, social media accounts release various content on this topic, amplifying the conversation. New developments emerge, and the news has to be shared with everyone. Perhaps because they believe we haven’t heard this story yet.

The discussion about resetting the fashion industry started during the pandemic, although the system was in bad health a long time before. And the reason why it came out is not that it made sense to shift the approach by reinventing a stale system but because companies lost large amounts of money.
Indeed, money is the engine that drives the world. And apparently, finances are the only force capable of provoking any real shift. Many of those who operate in the system completely ignore the problems. Better avoid the risk of any further loss of capital.

Fashion system and change
Image via Ode to things Tumblr


However, the debate still goes on. Those who are aware of the multiple issues talk profusely and release interviews, podcasts. Top brands like to talk about change, but unfortunately, it is not tangible yet. Not even a hint of change.
Only a few smaller brands follow a different direction.

Real change or Instachange?


So we wonder if all the talks are just catchy content for social media, food for the so-called experts in the field who can show how cool they are by interviewing this or that designer. Yet, we fear that the entire debate will end up like COP26: nothing accomplished.

It is helpful to repeat concepts more than once because we tend to forget words quickly. And so listening again might help us keep the focus. But in the end, we must find solutions. If the fashion system needs to change, actions must follow the words. Otherwise, we’ll have beautiful Instagram graphics showcasing the wind of ‘Instachange,’ but no real progress will be made. So, we won’t solve any issue.

By the way, overproduction is the biggest concern in the fashion field. Any news about if and how are they going to solve it?

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