contemporary culture

The New Categorising

Reading Time: 2 minutes

A human need, or an empty extremisation?


The new trend of categorising—or the need to assign labels that define where specific groups should fit—is growing rapidly. Terms like genderless, sustainable, recycled, upcycled, and inclusive are some of the most popular labels in fashion today. Yet, while we see these pretty, or not really so, boxes clearly labelled, they often feel too artificial, fake.

Categorising: a marketing byproduct


Why are brands so obsessed with labelling their work? And, in parallel, why do people need these labels? To identify themselves? or to be represented?

Jean-Paul Gaultier created the majority of the fashion topics that are trending now. Yet, during the ’80s and ’90s, there were no labels to claim in the fashion world. It was, instead, a celebration of freedom—both from the designer’s perspective and for those who wore his creations.
Fast forward to 2022, and the obsession with labelling has exploded. Genderless and sustainable are among the most popular, with nearly every brand now claiming to be genderless. Similarly, terms like recycled and upcycled have surged to the forefront. Clearly, it’s a trend.

Coming from a family of seamstresses, disassembling a pair of trousers to make a skirt or transforming a shirt into a blouse was part of our daily routine—essentially, the essence of upcycling and recycling. Moreover, in our boutique, we always offered men’s items to women and women’s items to men, but we never felt the need to categorise them. This, in many ways, embodies the true spirit of genderless fashion, inclusion, and diversity.

Even though about five years ago, we started focusing more on genderless or recycled as valuable concepts, now brands overuse them. Indeed these leabel became so mainstream that they are abused or intentionally misleading, as in the case of sustainability.

We are not happy to be classified. So we wonder, what happened recently? What does the new categorising mean?

We believe that the less meaning we find in brands and their products, the more they rely on labels to make their offerings easier to market.

The supply far exceeds the number of people in the world who can actually purchase these products—the demand. To reach the masses, brands have lowered the bar. And the more they lower the bar, the less value they offer. This is where the need for aggressive marketing and labelling comes into play.

In conclusion, labelling is an attempt to legitimise and promote an otherwise hollow system. Rather than focusing on what truly matters—the substance—they rely on labels to create a facade of value.

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The Challenge of Selling Sustainability To the Youth

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Identity or Identical: discovering your own style


Throughout many generations, there has always been the chapter of one’s young adult life when the opportunity of freedom and finding themselves is made available.
A topic within the discovery of oneself is figuring out your preferred style of clothing. Although this topic has always been apparent, it has flourished more than ever in recent years since more styles from the past have resurfaced and more alternative designs are being discovered.

Today’s youth are born into a society where they have effortless access to every clothing style imaginable. Indeed, they are given more flexibility upon various purchases because of discounted stores, and thanks to fast fashion, shelves are constantly reloaded with new trends.
They rely on mass production and endless options in order to discover the type of person they want to be in society. They use fashion as a method of showing the world who they are. And how they want to be portrayed.

Youth and sustainability: mixed messages


A strong message of environmentalism, as well as activism for unjust labour and mass waste in the fashion industry, have been shoved in the faces of many young adults. They are the future. So they should be informed because inevitably, they will have to be the ones to fix it.
But how are young people supposed to comprehend the immense troubles of mass production when that is the tool used for constructing their individuality?

Ethical production, made-to-order business strategies, and high-end thrifting apps seem to be one solution to mass waste. But how are the youth expected to contribute to the solution when they are supporting the problem in order to find themselves?

Sustainably identical or identity through corruption


Will sustainability among the youth insinuate an ideal of cloning or constricting youth creativity? There have been many new sustainable brands on the rise recently. So access to creativity and options is not the problem. The problem is general access due to price.

A brand is not truly sustainable unless the price is high. Profits go towards ethically paying for all processes of production, distribution, and finding high-quality environmentally friendly materials. Which are expensive. So does that place a cement barrier between the youth and sustainable living?

How do we expect the new generation to contribute to the solution? When rationally, they are one of the biggest components of the problem.

We inform them, we educate them, and we make them aware. Rather than remaining the problem, they can be one of the biggest solutions.
Since Generation Z and Millenials are what makes up one of the biggest factors in overconsumption, waste, and over-production. Convincing them to halt their current mindset would tear down the entire system.

You can’t continue the unhealthy cycle if there is no one left to buy into the lies.

✍️ A piece written by Gavriel Ewart. An American girl studying fashion and communication at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

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It’s war! The World We Don’t Want

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Can fashion stay relevant during a war next to our door?


It’s war! Yesterday we awoke with a clear feeling of insanity and disgust as the first news we heard in the morning told us that Russia declared war on Ukraine.

From the end of the Cold War to the onset of a real war


The news sent us back to the past. It felt like a flashback to 1985, the year Sting released the song Russians. We were teenagers then, and music was the center of our universe. That song had a profound impact on us. By the way, the world was nearing the end of the Cold War.

Russians lyrics came to our mind evoking sad thoughts:
“In Europe and America, there’s a growing feeling of hysteria
Conditioned to respond to all the threats
In the rhetorical speeches of the Soviets.”

Nothing has changed over time, nor can we say humanity has ever learned anything from past events—most of which were man-made disgraces. In fact, humans keep on repeating the same mistakes over and over again, and perhaps we like it too.

war


The backdrop of Milano Fashion Week


Against this backdrop of horrible events, we should talk about Milano Fashion Week, and to be honest, it doesn’t come so easy.

The first impression we have is that the language has become cloying. All the wording, from sustainability to diversity, from inclusion to genderless, flooded the industry and flattened the proposals. These empty claims seem to depict a fake universe detached from reality. In the end, brands follow one another without having a real character that makes them unique.

“Balenciagitis” is a kind of contagious phenomenon which has affected many brands, depriving them of their core identity.

The mood so far seemed very 90’s: tank tops, layering, see-through dresses.

However, Putin’s frightening words and actions today resonate with us more than fashion does. So, we turn to Sting’s song once again:

“There’s no such thing as a winnable war
It’s a lie we don’t believe anymore!”

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The Curve Of Understanding

Reading Time: 2 minutes

How long does it take to open our eyes?


The case of plastic illustrates the tension between convenience and value, tracing our curve of understanding.
Plastic was invented in 1920. Around 1960 humans started using disposable plastic profusely. One of the greatest inventions ever. You could use cutlery, plates and cups and throw them away! Likewise, we could use plastic bags and toss them. Well, that’s what disposable means. It just got out of hand, or we didn’t realise that there’s a certain number of people inhabiting planet earth, and we aren’t so good with multiplication.

‘Buy – consume – toss’
The perfect innovation for everyday life, and no one considered any side effects. For about 50 years, at least. Till one day, we realised the oceans are full of disposable plastic. And that by 2050, there will be more plastic than fish in the oceans!

So, it took about 60 years to notice that single-use plastic was polluting oceans. Finally, the EU banned plastic in 2021, but the damage is done. Sixty years to open our eyes. And even now that is known, people do not worry much about that.

Learning the lesson
Will it take us that long for technology too? Since we are kindly invited to change a device every year. Or for furniture? Which, of course, is cheap but made to self-destruct within the shortest time possible. Or for clothing, because ‘the industry of cheap’ is flourishing! People want more. ‘And who cares if I wear it for less than a season? I’ll throw it away!’

How can a different approach resonate in a world made of beautiful facades or people who don’t care?

Perhaps, it will resonate with a tiny niche of active thinkers who want to make the change. Because they care, they can make a difference.

#formodernhumans

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Fashion In The Metaverse

Reading Time: 2 minutes

The final frontier of business


While billionaires are busy conquering Mars and developing Space tourism, fashion moves the first steps into the metaverse.

Life on Mars?

We are boiling planet earth. Issues at hand are appalling: climate change, modern-day slavery, poverty. An impressive number of people have no access to water and food – which are basic needs. Plus, a pandemic. And what do they do? They plan to go to Mars!

Well, those billionaires could bring their contribution to solve problems here, in order to ensure a better life on planet earth. But instead of helping humans, they plan to move somewhere else. Develop space tourism and more pollution, consequently. Though, they are the same who advertise sustainable practices of their terrestrial businesses.

Mars doesn’t even seem a nice place to be. So it’s not understood what kind of alternative they are envisioning. These expeditions produce zero scientific value, just 100% business. To use Eckhart Tolle words: “I call it intelligence in service of madness.”

In parallel to Space colonization, what happens in the fashion field?

Fashion brands are launching clothing, handbags and accessories for the metaverse. What may seem unmissable for the early adopters, who would even jump off a cliff to parade their coolness, in truth, sends alarming messages. If capitalism enters into the metaverse, it’s hard not to imagine any social and environmental cost related to that.

The illusion of consumption


At least a couple of thoughts jump to our minds. This is what brands tell us: if you cannot afford our stuff in real life, you can buy them in a fake environment. An easy way to pretend to be rich! Also, there is a manipulation towards overconsumption. Since we don’t consume enough in real life, brands urge us to do so in an imaginary world, reinforcing the physical model.
The need to show off one’s status isn’t elegant and scarcely appreciable in real life. Doing it in a fake environment only doubles the illusion of status and consumption.

Is it the world we want?


Prof. Emilio Gentile, an Italian historian, said on tv at Passato e Presente:

“that is modernity, the horrendous can coexist with the marvellous.”

We believe that a conscious lifestyle on our marvellous planet earth is worth more than any Mars or fake universe.

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