contemporary culture

Chronicles From The Middle Ages

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Women against women


Sometimes, women can have a tremendously negative impact on women’s emancipation. This is evident in the words of Elisabetta Franchi, which felt like like chronicles from the Middle-Ages.

This is what Elisabetta Franchi said in an interview with “Il Foglio”:

“When you put a woman in an important position, you cannot afford not to see her coming for two years because that position is uncovered. An entrepreneur invests time, energy, and money and if a woman cannot show up it’s a problem, so I too, as an entrepreneur, am responsible for my company, have often focused on men.”

“An entrepreneur cannot afford not to see a woman show up for two years, that’s why I often bet on men.”

“I only hire over forty women who already have children.”

Daily life in Middle Ages


This is not men’s opposition to women’s emancipation. This is women against women. When it comes to our vision of fashion, Elisabetta Franchi has never been under our radar. Style speaks, and her fashion perfectly represents her worldview, which is explained above–in her own words. A tacky style for women who dress to impress men. That’s what society and tradition want, so let’s give it to them. And so, we witness the same old patriarchal rhetoric depicted through clothing. A regressive portrayal of women, where career opportunities are nonexistent, but their value lies in attracting men.

It’s something we would never offer to our women. But what we find sad is that most women like that style.

A while ago, we promised to write an exploration of fashion and patriarchy. Indeed, the only fashion that men can appreciate is the one that pleases them. Consequently, that is the most popular style among women, and therefore, that is the best-selling fashion.

Now pair Franchi’s retrograde words with the recent news that three girls couldn’t enter a bar on the beach near Ostia because their clothes weren’t sexy enough. What do we see, then? A disturbing snapshot of a society where women have no opportunities and no evolution.

And we just needed a woman to remind us about it! From the Chronicles of the Middle-Ages, that’s it!

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The Diffusion Of Bad Taste

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Why elegance is dead


The diffusion of bad taste has never been more dominant. You see it in fashion magazines, street style outfits, events, workplaces, everywhere. People cannot dress properly. And dressing up depending on the occasion does not seem to be a rule, so the dress code is dead along with elegance. Without a doubt, we can say that bad taste has become widespread. Yet, they call it fashion!

However, good taste is not limited to luxury clothes. Indeed, we see many rich people wearing expensive clothes, but without a trace of elegance. Just scroll through your social media, and the show is served with disarmingly gross images. But the same tacky style dominates television too. There are no icons of elegance anymore.

About elegance


We came across this interview Stefano Pilati released to Vice in 2012. Still very current and worth reading. We quote him:

“My idea of elegance—and this refers to women as well as men—is that someone is elegant when he or she shows a good knowledge of what fits them, where you can find naturalness and self-esteem. Not showing off. Elegance is the idea of showing an optimistic depiction of oneself and to lose oneself in the frivolity of style and fashion. Nowadays nobody gives a shit about being elegant, or chic. If you’re doing it, you’re doing it for yourself, because it’s your way of being. When you’re not thinking, “This is fashion,” and you’re not buying clothes to create statements, you’re on the right path. If fashion goes low waisted and you’re fat bottomed, well, forget it; don’t put slim-fitting jeans on. They’re going to look awful on you. You should dress in black; it would be better.

But seriously, it’s not easy to find elegant women. There are a few, the majority of whom are old—and there are one or maybe two in the world who created a new style when they were young. Today when I go to New York and survey art and fashion, I see smart women and the level is high. But there’s a difference between this and saying a woman is elegant.”

Clearly, the downfall started a while ago… it’s just more evident now.

The bad taste era: what went wrong?


Elegance, for both men and women, is about understanding what suits you and embracing it with confidence and authenticity, rather than chasing trends or making bold statements. It’s a natural, understated expression of self-esteem and optimism, free from the pressures of fashion. True elegance is rare today—most who embody it are older, with only a handful having redefined style in their youth. While many women today are smart and stylish, there’s a distinct difference between being fashionable and being truly elegant. Elegance is timeless, personal, and unforced.

The diffusion of bad taste is a consequence of the relentless pursuit of trends over individuality, where the noise of fast fashion and social media overshadows the quiet confidence of true style. It thrives in a culture that prioritizes instant gratification and visibility over authenticity and refinement, leaving little room for the timeless elegance that comes from knowing and embracing oneself.

The diffusion of bad taste is a phenomenon strictly connected to the decadence of our society. To put it another way, it is a cultural issue. In fact, in a context of growing uncertainty, we lost the points of reference. Many rules and roles collapsed. We seemed to have acquired certain freedom, which unfortunately reveals more about rudeness and lack of manners than freedom of expression.

If elegance is a dying breed, the problem is rooted in our society.
Culture is at the heart of the issue, but if elegance is dead and bad taste takes its place, it signifies that our culture is in a poor state.

We should rediscover a sense of limit and dignity.

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The Coherence Gap

Reading Time: 2 minutes

The clash between sustainability and fast fashion’s growth


Our society has a problem with consistency, revealing a glaring coherence gap. Indeed one point seems quite clear: what people say is not consistent with what they do. It’s like coherence is a fault, or it’s not necessary. So you are allowed to say something and then do the opposite without being held accountable.

Consistency and sustainability


Magazines these days released the news that Shein, the fast-fashion giant, is raising funds at 100 billion USD value.
Considering that their price range is around 10 – 20 euros, two things are certain. First, the materials have zero quality. Second, their production chains raise serious doubts. If 15 euros is the price of one dress, how much are workers getting paid to make that garment?
Quality can be something one could renounce, but an ethical production chain is the foundation of a healthy society. And therefore, crucial in any discussion, even about sustainability.

Yet no questions arise in those who buy Shein. In fact, in a moment when communication and marketing are all about sustainability, the fast-fashion giant is growing enormously. And there is similar news too. Recently Primark opened in Milano, and people were packed in line to get in.

Overcoming the coherence gap


People talk about sustainability and maybe show up at ‘Friday’s for Future’, but they buy fast fashion. Why?
Everyone, adults and teenagers, say something, but they do the opposite. This lack of consistency reveals that sustainability is just a marketing trend. It is a popular topic, something people like to discuss to show they are up-to-date, but they don’t really care.

In fact, if they were consistent, they wouldn’t buy fast fashion at all! And the case of low budgets is just an excuse to avoid the change since the business model is profitable for corporations and “convenient” for short-sighted masses. Vintage items are accessible to anyone, and nothing is more sustainable.

So, here’s the way to overcome the coherence gap: let actions follow thoughts. In the same direction, of course!

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Violent Responses in Modern Society

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Where do we want to go next?


Violent responses have become a daily occurrence in modern society. Violence is served to us continuously. It happens in movies as well as in tv shows. But sadly, it happens in reality too. Even if we focus on our work, the current exceptional facts are inescapable. Anyway, the war is turning the fashion industry upside-down.

Violence is the response we see on a daily basis and to any act, and it is curious to see how people condemn it or accept it depending on the case.

How does a violent response happen?


Someone says something. Someone does not respect an agreement, or someone crushes your foot. The list could be longer because we can find endless occasions that would trigger a mindless reaction. However, by crushing the foot, that someone hits someone else’s nerves. And what does this someone else do? This someone else reacts with violence. A violent reaction can go from slapping someone in the face to invading a country, just to name two possibilities.

Perhaps both examples may sound familiar. Whatever may have caused the violent response – “You assault somebody, you get escorted out the building, and that’s it.” So stated the Oscar co-host, Wanda Sykes, for instance.

Following the same logic: you assault another country, you get invited to stop! Because whatever caused your reaction, borders cannot be violated. Of course, we weigh both sides considering the wider picture, but only one side is the aggressor. Therefore, to remain equidistant means being on the side of those using violence.

Violence is a human tendency, but it’s a brutal response


Violence is an inherent human tendency, which explains why violent responses have become a daily occurrence in modern society. But violence is a brutal response and must always be condemned. Because when you react violently, you’ve already lost. Even if provoked by someone, it shouldn’t be accepted.

As a matter of fact, we get accustomed to violence more easily than to respect or kindness. It’s time to understand that this attitude is not constructive.

Violence is never the answer. Let’s make it clear. Let’s make them stop.

#STANDWITHUKRAINE

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Dissecting Gender Norms: “My Brain Is Up Here”

Reading Time: 3 minutes

The elegance and beauty of the female brain


Through dissecting gender norms, I explore how societal expectations and discrimination continue to shape the female experience in a world striving for equality.

When I was a little girl, I remember being told quite often that I should be aware of how revealing my wardrobe is. How much makeup I am wearing, or how intense I am behaving. People would say that it is distracting to boys when they are in school.

Sadly, I never heard anyone try to teach a boy not only that they should respect women and look to them for intellectual guidance. Since it’s scientifically proven that the female brain matures faster than the male. But also that they shouldn’t be viewing us as distracting sexual objects.

As a result of this misguided message, women are viewed as a trophy or accessory for a man. Other terms that come to mind are: “bitchy”, “too much”, “bossy”, “confrontational”, or “stubborn”.
Ironically, when men present the same behaviour that usually gives us these titles, they are said to be “determined”, “a leader”, “well-spoken”, or “hard-working”.

How gender discrimination is portrayed in society


A consistent example of women being negatively targeted in our society is prevalent in our female celebrities. In interviews, they often receive questions about the outfit they are wearing, the fitness regime they follow. What diet they are restricted to for maintaining their figure. Or my favourite, “are you dating anyone new”. They are rarely asked about their career goals and opinions on current social issues.

One of my favourite interviews was with Simone Biles. When the interviewer commented on her lack of smiling during routines, Biles responded: “smiling doesn’t win you gold medals.”
In this interview, Biles was able to break the lens that is typically looked through when reviewing a woman. We are beautiful and elegant. But we are also powerful, determined, disciplined, and honourable.

Female celebrities are constantly bombarded on the red carpet, being asked about their romantic life or if they will be “leaving with lots of men tonight”.
The key focus is always about who they will be the trophy for, not that they are their own trophy.

Gender norms: it’s a man’s world. . . so let’s make it ours too


By dissecting gender norms, we uncover how we live in a world defined and constructed by men, from the language to the ground we walk on. Yet they are utterly confused to find us questioning everything around us. In a global society dominated by men, women are often criticised when doing something that was assumed to only be possible by a man.

Every success or power move beyond a man’s comfort level is questioned, every opinion verbalised in an important room is critiqued. And every social step-forward is categorised as a “female revolution of empowerment”, since any progress from zero is applaudable.

We shouldn’t be settling for minor improvements in our system, and we shouldn’t have to answer to every man who interrogates our purpose in the field he generally occupies. We have normalized our whispers as a way of accommodating men, avoiding the offensive titles they have given us.

Since it’s brutally obvious that men don’t have any agenda to flip the conversation, rather than adapting to our gender-exclusive environment, it’s time we counteract their close-minded reality with the truth of what being a woman truly means.

We live in a world paved for men. Although women have made great leaps in upheaving this pavement, we still have a long way to go.

Don’t forget the beauty, and elegance within your mind that makes you a woman. Most importantly, don’t forget to speak your mind unapologetically. No more whispers.

✍️ A piece written by Gavriel Ewart. An American girl studying fashion and communication at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

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