contemporary culture

Stop Killing Innocents!

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Nurturing seeds of peace in a polarised reality


Protesters march in the major cities to demand a cease-fire in Gaza: stop killing innocents! Even Jewish activist groups are demanding it. Tavi Gevinson is among the Jewish writers who signed an open letter: Critiquing the State of Israel is not antisemitic. These voices are like seeds of peace, attempting to overcome divisions.

On October 7, Hamas perpetrated a brutal attack on Israeli towns and kibbutzes, killing 1400 people – innocent civilians; an immense horror strongly condemned. But the consequent massacre of Palestinians by Israel is even worse. The revenge is genocide: Israelis killed thousands of people. In Gaza, about half the population is under 18. 

The matter of Palestine and Israel is complex. Also, it hides layers of prejudice, taking this or that political side and polarizing the debate, dumping the consequences on innocent people and children.

“During times of conflict and suffering, we can only hope that outsiders who are not immediately affected will nurture seeds of peace. The job of intellectuals, artists and scholars is to try and go deeper. To try and see the complexity of reality, especially in today’s climate of post-truth. It feels intellectually and emotionally lazy to just pick a side.” – Yuval Noah Harari (historian and author).

On both sides, there’s so much pain and grief. To understand what’s going on, we found illuminating Doctor Gabor Maté’s video. Gabor Maté is a Hungarian naturalised Canadian physician, best-selling author and speaker. Renowned addiction expert sought after for his expertise on trauma, addiction, stress and childhood development. Also, he is a Holocaust survivor.

Indeed, his personal life experience lived the brutality of the Nazis, and such a horrendous trauma impacted him as a child. So, we share his latest video here below.


How far does Israel want to go with revenge? Furthermore, to what extent can the international community accept infringements on the Geneva Convention?

When we read about the Nazis, one of the questions is: how could people remain silent? Silence equals passive complicity, so we cannot make the same mistake now.

Above all, we need to overcome divisions by nurturing seeds of peace. So, we stand with those who demand to stop killing innocents!

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Fashion and Books

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Can fashion be a vehicle of culture?


Last week, we attended an event at Nonostante Marras, Antonio Marras‘ store. It was an intimate gathering that connected the worlds of fashion and books.

Fashion: a set for books


With its eclectic mix of fashion, art, and interior design, the shop perfectly reflects the designer’s personality. Indeed, the internal courtyard, filled with plants, provided a serene and welcoming atmosphere. A lovely place for the book launch of “Ostaggio” (Hostage) by Maria Francesca Chiappe.

Lately, fashion doesn’t seem the place for cultural gatherings. Imagine books! According to the ISTAT (National Institute of Statistics), in 2022, 39.3% of the population aged six and over read at least one book a year.
However, we appreciate people who challenge massified trends by offering alternative views for those who still love reading.

The journalist, Giorgio Porrà, conducted a friendly interview with the writer, Maria Francesca Chiappe, who shared her experiences as a reporter in Sardinia and her inspiration for her latest crime novel. Over her career as a reporter, she witnessed so much blood that she doesn’t want to dig into that in her books. So, no blood, her genre is a pure crime.

Fashion and books


What is the book about?


The book is set in Cagliari, Sardinia, during Covid-19. A woman disappears from her home in Poetto. Her car is in the courtyard, car doors open, keys in the ignition, while her five-year-old daughter desperately cries in the yard.
There’s no English translation for now, but you can practise your Italian!

The writer explained the title “Hostage” reflects the many layers of meaning behind the word. And the challenge of distinguishing between good and evil, somehow tracing a line that perfectly separates them.

During the Q&A, someone asked her: “Who do you write for? Do you have someone in mind?” The author replied: “When I write, I do it for myself. I enter into my world, and it’s my moment of pleasure.”
As to say, writing is not just a matter of marketing! Which we loved!

The event ended with a delicious buffet of Sardinian food and an opportunity to connect with like-minded individuals. We adored meeting Maria Francesca Chiappe and the Marras family! But also Guido, a passionate independent bookseller and owner of “Libreria Popolare.”

Books in a fashion context showcase the importance of preserving a diverse perspective in a homologated society. Indeed, fashion needs to be a vehicle for culture.

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More On Modern Feminism

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Is it true liberation and women’s empowerment?


Modern feminism mainly corresponds to exposing almost naked women’s bodies. From red carpets and fashion shows to music events, that seems to be the most visible trace of female affirmation.

As a demonstration of emancipation, women want to express themselves as they like. And, of course, that makes sense. Hence, dressing, or we better say, undressing, is part of this liberation. But look at music and movie stars, influencers, TV entertainment, and professionals. Followed by all the women who flooded social media with parts of their bodies as the only thing they can convey. Unfortunately, women’s image is more stereotyped than ever. So, we were happy to read about Chinese women who are challenging “beauty-duty” and traditional standards.

When it comes to dressing or undressing, the women’s so-called gained freedom strangely unveils traits that win the favour of men. Doesn’t any light bulb switch on in your head? Don’t we even question why our supposed freedom corresponds to men’s preferences?

Perhaps there is something we’re missing. But let’s take as a fundamental detail the liberty of showing our body as a reflection of our power. Take red carpets, for instance. Or any other event, since there’s no difference in terms of outfits, which are mainly inelegant. Women show up almost naked, as it seems that’s the only way to reveal all their femininity. But have you ever seen men show up naked on red carpets?

Indeed, this is the crux of the matter: Have you ever seen men show up semi-naked to promote their masculinity?

Are we talking about liberation and women’s empowerment, or is there something else behind it? As women, is our worth expressed only by nudity? Or by cages and standards – hair, make-up, plastic faces and bodies – we must fit in in order to satisfy societal expectations? If so, it doesn’t sound really new. In fact, it’s the same old story, which tells more about patriarchy than fashion or modern feminism.

But the reality is so well manipulated that they made us believe it’s about women’s power and modern feminism.

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What is Fashion Design Today?

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Sharing some thoughts on contemporary fashion design


What is fashion design today? What is it? When everything is already done and nothing new can be made? But you still happen to read news about “the one who complained the other one copied her.”

So what is it when those who started their own collection or image concept already did it by taking inspiration from others and remixing what other designers have already done! Perhaps they don’t even realise where their ideas come from.

And what is fashion design today? When contemporary creatives have no humility to say: ‘I made this’ – and this is my style because I took inspiration from this or that designer who made such a fantastic work.

What is fashion design today? If people praise the ones who complain that another designer has copied them! But for what? For flower prints? Or for flowered head decorations? Really?

Again, what is fashion design today? When everything is possible. So brands who assemble clothes as we’ve seen trillion of times, feel like the new gods of fashion.

And when inspiration and remixing have flattened the fashion industry to such a degree that everything, every brand, looks the same. And doing so has deprived fashion of its DNA, core differences and, in essence, of its meaning.

Can modern designers, creative directors and so on stay humble? If they feel copied, Mr Cristobal should resurrect and say something about endless collections made from his archive! Can people understand there is no true genius in the fashion industry nowadays?

On 14 October, in Florence, Antonio Marras arranged a show making clothes for 20 cancer patients; the defilè – “Sfilata del prendersi cura” (the show of taking care) – was a message of hope. You can watch it here. But, an Italian brand accused him of copying her.
Really?

This sterile controversy made us reflect. First, Marras’ idiosyncrasy has never been in question. Also, bravo for this caring project! In the end, what is fashion design today? It’s about copy and paste. In some cases, following a valuable guiding idea. In most cases -those who tend to complain – pointless reproductions we could avoid seeing. Moreover, it has been done so many times, that the arrogance to claim originality seems out of context.

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New Beauty Standards In China

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Empowering women vs societal expectations


Whether for feminism or practical reasons, women are redefining beauty standards in China. By challenging the traditional ideal of femininity, some young Chinese women want to be free to express their individuality. And we couldn’t be more proud of such a brave choice.

Women, buzz cut & beauty duty


Patriarchal society shaped the rules which subdued women over time. Long hair has always represented the image women have to conform to, not only in China. However, a new trend reports a step towards empowering women against societal expectations. Specifically, Chinese women started breaking the rule by switching the classic haircut with a bold buzz cut.

The buzz cut is easier to manage, low-maintenance and high-impact. It is not just a matter of fashion, it goes beyond that. Indeed, it represents a powerful statement: freedom and self-determination. The buzzcut is a synonym for self-confidence and independence. And so the trend is rising in China, and more women are opting for it.

Along with it, another trend is growing: “embrace beauty without makeup.” It’s a way to defy the “beauty duty” that forces women to maintain their appearance, imprisoning them in oppressive standards.

Beauty standards: western vs Chinese


We live in a man’s world. By analysing historical and cultural context, we can see that beauty standards are the embodiment of a male perspective and a market demand. In fact, everywhere in the world, society brainwashes women to conform to a specific image. And to stick to those precise features that women – of course – believe are the fruit of their personal reasoning or independent thought. On the Western side of the world, we witness this distorted idea of feminism: women conform to contemporary stereotypes that (just by chance?) perfectly reflect a man’s viewpoint. And women call it freedom!

So, what happens in China surprises us positively. In a society where social norms and traditions are so deeply rooted, Chinese women’s choice against “beauty duty” represents a brave move.

Indeed, by rejecting traditional ideas of feminine beauty, new beauty standards in China are an inspiration to nonconformism and women’s empowerment. Most importantly, it should make us reflect on what beauty standards really hide.

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