valentino

Giancarlo Giammetti: The ultimate word on creative directors

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Valentino’s co-founder declares: “Style must be defended like freedom”


At Rome’s Forme festival – a celebration of fashion academies – Giancarlo Giammetti delivered what may stand as his ultimate word on creative directors. Between recollections of Valentino’s golden era and warnings about today’s industry, one declaration rang out like a battle cry: 

“Style must be defended like freedom.”


The Valentino co-founder served as guest speaker for the third talk of Forme – Perspectives on Fashion, Art, and Creativity, held March 21-22 at Massimiliano Fuksas’ striking Nuvola complex. In conversation with Tg1’s fashion director Barbara Modesti before an audience of students, Giammetti wove personal history into a masterclass on fashion’s shifting values.

Beauty as a form of radical resistance


“True beauty transcends aesthetics,” Giammetti asserted. “For Valentino and me, it now represents peace and serenity.” This philosophy drives their PM23 Foundation at Rome’s 23 Piazza Mignanelli, where fashion and art converge deliberately. “We’re simply honouring what always was: to create beauty through art and fashion.”

The lost art of creative freedom


His advice to emerging designers cut through the noise: “Create what you love. Believe in what you do, in your style, and try to assert it – even if times have changed.” The comparison to his and Valentino’s early struggles was inevitable. “Valentino and I were two twenty-year-olds coming together, facing a thousand difficulties. Today, the times impose business logic, and designers are no longer free to create. The system demands economic values. But the true values are those tied to solitude, freedom, and beauty.”

He recalled Valentino’s epiphany in Barcelona: “Spanish women in red at the opera, crimson flowers everywhere – that became his red. Not a Pantone, but blood and passion made visible.”

Creativity, not algorithms


Giammetti’s voice turned wry discussing fashion’s digital decay: “We dined with Warhol; Valentino dedicated collections to Basquiat. Art has always been fundamental to him.”  

Now? Designers create for Instagram’s hunger, not women’s lives. “We didn’t need to make a fuss on the runway or send messages. Today, with social media, it seems that designers make clothes more for photos on social media than for women.”

He praised the talent in the room but issued a warning: “Defend your style. Creative directors now bend to corporate wills—Valentino’s era of four-person ateliers is gone.”

Heritage vs. hype: Giancarlo Giammetti on creative directors – The ultimate word


Here came his most pointed critique as he pronounced the ultimate word on creative directors:

 “The relationship between a brand’s heritage and business strategy must be respected by creative directors. It’s not about copying the archive, but neither should it be turned into a mockery.”

The unspoken reference to Alessandro Michele’s Valentino tenure hovered like Roman humidity.

Giancarlo Giammetti: Support to young creatives


When prompted for a favourite anecdote, Giammetti shared: “We were visiting Queen Elizabeth, and Valentino said, ‘Your Majesty, may I introduce my assistant?’ I wanted to die.”
The crowd erupted in laughter—and later, a standing ovation—as he confirmed the Garavani Foundation’s mission: “To support young creatives.”

Final thoughts


At Forme – Perspectives on Fashion, Art, and Creativity, Giancarlo Giammetti offered clear, wholehearted guidance. His reflections encapsulated an unrepeatable chapter in fashion history—a true lesson for the younger generation. Yet, it also served as a powerful reminder for those beyond their youth.

His support for emerging creatives was evident. Yet, what resonated most was his ultimate word on creative directors: respect heritage, don’t merely copy the archive, and never turn it into a circus—wisdom much needed in today’s collapsing fashion industry.

In short, Giammetti distilled sixty years of fashion work into pure doctrine:

  • Style is sovereignty – defend it or lose it.
  • Beauty is responsibility – not Instagram currency.
  • Legacy isn’t Lego – don’t dismantle what you should elevate.

In an industry suffocating under frequent changes and instability, his words charted a course.

Giancarlo Giammetti: The ultimate word on creative directors Read More »

SS25 Haute Couture Week Final Thoughts

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Marine fantasies from two visionary designers


As SS25 Paris Haute Couture Week unfolds, we dive into a realm where fashion transcends reality, offering a glimpse into the fantastical and unattainable. Haute couture is not just about garments—it’s a space for dreams and artistic expression at its peak. By the way, it’s about true luxury for a few.

Whether drawing from mythological fantasies or embodying a designer’s essence, haute couture captivates with its artistry. Among the collections that resonated with us were the mesmerizing creations of Jean Paul Gaultier and Yuima Nakazato—each echoing the enchantment of marine life in their own distinctive ways.

SS25 Haute Couture – Jean Paul Gaultier: nautical fantasies reimagined


We were captivated by Naufrage, the sea-inspired collection by Ludovic de Saint Sernin, this season’s guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier. From shipwrecked mermaids to daring sailors, pirates and majestic sailing ships, the show was an ode to the nautical themes so deeply embedded in Gaultier’s DNA. Corsetry, second-skin gowns, and audacious tailoring wove a seamless narrative, staying true to the house’s heritage while offering a fresh, contemporary twist.

This was so much Gaultier—bold, imaginative, and beautifully executed. The brand’s iconic codes were reinterpreted with a modern edge, proving that reinvention doesn’t mean losing identity but rather refining it with artistry.


Yuima Nakazato: ethereal nomads in a dreamlike desert


A dim light. A barren desert at the center of the stage. The distant sound of waves. Models moving in slow motion, as if suspended in time. The Japanese Yuima Nakazato transported us to a world where tradition and futurism merged effortlessly. His garments, a fusion of ethnic beauty and modern innovation, carried an almost sacred quality. The craftsmanship was exquisite, with accessories that perfectly complemented the ethereal silhouettes. The overall effect was mesmerizing—like watching a noble tribe with luminous souls making their way through the vastness of a quiet, moonlit night.


Valentino through the eyes of Alessandro Michele—Valentino?


Alessandro Michele’s first haute couture collection for Valentino left us wondering: do we still need designers who are actually capable of doing their job? Apparently, not anymore. 

A black backdrop illuminated by LED lights. Exaggerated silhouettes. Two details we appreciated: the graceful presence of models of all ages, including middle-aged and beyond; and the focus on individual pieces. And yet…

What we saw wasn’t couture but costume. The collection felt like a direct extension of Michele’s Gucci era, repurposing his own aesthetic that, while impactful, didn’t translate into the world of Valentino. The essence of Valentino’s haute couture— gowns for a few lucky ones —was missing as most pieces were unwearable.

We couldn’t help but wonder: why doesn’t he launch his own brand instead? And above all, how is Mr. Valentino doing after seeing this show?

SS25 Haute Couture Week endnotes


In conclusion, as the SS25 Paris Haute Couture Week comes to a close, we are once again caught in the whirlwind of musical chairs—who exits, who enters, and what it all means. The relentless cycle of change seems to overshadow the very notion of timelessness, while the designer’s ego increasingly takes centre stage, shaping the narrative more than the heritage itself.

🖤 We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears

📲 Connect with us on WhatsApp, by e-mail, or by commenting below (just register first).

Let’s start a conversation #formodernhumans

SS25 Haute Couture Week Final Thoughts Read More »

The Role of the Designer

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

Examining the changing face of fashion


Understanding the evolving dynamics of the role of the designer is crucial for navigating industry shifts. Often, we’ve been pondering a recurring question: Does it still make sense to keep an eye on luxury brands?

The so-called but no-more-so luxury brands. Or the once esteemed but now seemingly entangled in the pursuit of profit. Therefore, they change designers for short-term profit, to the point of sacrificing their legacy. It’s a reflection that delves into the core values of an industry now seemingly driven by financial gains rather than its intrinsic essence.

In one of our most recent posts, we wrote a thought we want to repurpose here. Indeed, a significant issue that requires additional investigation. In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, where trends shift like sand dunes in the wind, algorithms emerge as a formidable force, reshaping the industry in unprecedented ways.

Fashion designers: from skills to loudness


But what are the consequences of algorithms?
One of the consequences of this transformation is the shifting role of the brand’s central figure: the designer. Alber Elbaz’s poignant observation sheds light on this evolution:

“We designers, we started as couturiers, with dreams, with intuition. Then we became ‘creative directors’, so have to create but mostly direct. And now we have to become image-makers… Loudness is the new cool, and not only in fashion, you know. I prefer whispering.”

Alber Elbaz

Indeed, in today’s digital age, the clamour for attention on social media platforms necessitates a cacophony of noise from brands. Loudness has become the modus operandi to cut through the clutter of images inundating our feeds. In other words, social media has corrupted fashion.

Of course, recent developments follow this logic. Specifically, Maison Valentino appointed Alessandro Michele as the new creative director. That underscores the industry’s relentless pursuit of attracting young, social media-savvy audiences. And to the expenses of decades of legacy, consistency and beauty. While these individuals may possess an innate understanding of visuals, the question arises: Can they perceive the depth of quality, skills, and ability essential for authentic creative direction beyond surface aesthetics?

As we move forward in the fashion industry, it is crucial to reflect on the shift in the role of the designer. And question whether profit has eclipsed the industry’s once-revered artistic and creative integrity.

The Role of the Designer Read More »

Pierpaolo Piccioli Announced Departure From Valentino

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Fashion industry: financial gain at the expense of creative vision


Seismic news rocked the fashion industry: Pierpaolo Piccioli, the creative force behind Valentino, has announced his departure. This startling development prompts us to question, even further, the essence of fashion itself.

Piccioli’s sole leadership modernised Valentino with unparalleled and undeniable beauty. His visionary approach to fashion exuded poetic elegance, expressed through magnificent couture pieces. Also, he championed inclusivity and diversity, embodying a powerful political stance. 

PP Piccioli: an exception in the fashion industry

However, Piccioli has been an exception in fashion: he’s been the only designer who has fully respected the Maison’s DNA he designed for. (We wrote about it here). Very few others have shown such humble respect for the founder. In fact, Mr Valentino’s own words after the announcement sum it up perfectly: 

“Thank you, @pppiccioli, first and foremost, for your friendship, respect, and support.
You’re the only designer I know who hasn’t tried to distort the codes of a major brand by imposing new ones and the megalomania of a ridiculous ego. “

Mr Valentino via Instagram

Mr. Valentino’s insights shed light on the contemporary approach of creative directors in their roles. The presumed objective is to revitalise the brand’s image, infusing it with modernity. However, lacking humility or reverence, many creative directors recklessly discard past achievements. More often than not, this results in designs devoid of beauty or purpose, merely serving marketing interests. In other words, the fashion industry is all about financial gain at the expense of creativity and consistency.

It’s undeniable that the luxury sector is experiencing a slowdown. But it’s crucial to recognize that creative designers don’t have a magic wand. Moreover, no other designer can uphold Valentino’s legacy to the extent that Piccioli has thus far.

Financial gain vs creativity and consistency

Indeed, it’s disconcerting how the fashion industry incessantly targets younger generations. The reality is, most young people cannot afford a 2,200 euro mini dress! So, this prompts reflection on whether the true essence of design has shifted towards more accessible items. Should we expect fashion Maisons to sell logoed baseball caps?

Should we anticipate another ‘Balenciagan’ spectacle? Or a new lace & blossom Alessandro Michele’s Gucci style? These are just a couple of examples of larger-than-life egos in the industry. Alessandro Michele’s radical transformation of Gucci begs some questions. After he killed Gucci’s heritage, will the Maison ever regain its credibility? And does it make any sense to risk a similar fate for Valentino?

Conclusion

In conclusion, Pierpaolo Piccioli announced his departure from Valentino, leaving many perplexed. Beyond expressing admiration for the immense beauty that he has brought to the forefront over the years, we struggle to grasp the underlying rationale. Or, perhaps, we understand it all too well. But we are fed up with that game.

We invite you to share your thoughts in the comments below!

Pierpaolo Piccioli Announced Departure From Valentino Read More »

The Exception To The Rule

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Unique perspectives in the fashion realm


They say every rule has its exception. And, of course, we couldn’t escape. In fact, just a few days ago, we wrote that fashion maisons whose original designer has left, lose their meaning. In other words, fashion brands lose their essence once the original designer is no longer at the helm.

Indeed, this is not the case with Valentino, which stands as the exception to the rule. Since the duo Piccioli – Chiuri has split from co-designing the brand, Mr Pierpaolo Piccioli didn’t miss a single beat. Though, we cannot say the same about Chiuri’s work.

From the moment he went solo, Piccioli’s sense of design has been a celebration of the Valentino codes. He carefully paid respect to the founder’s work, elaborating the brand DNA while adding a touch of modernity. Elegance has certainly not been lost.

On July 15, we saw the Fall/Winter 21-22 Valentino couture show, streamlined from Venice’s Gaggiandre, Arsenale. What better occasion to find a valid exception to the above rule. The show was a dialogue between fashion and art, presented from a magnificent set-up.

If fashion is not art, it is true that both forms of expression have many aspects in common: creativity, the vital and foundational element that shapes the entire process. But also time, experimentation, and skilled hands. All these are crucial elements needed to reach a perfect realization.

For the show, Pierpaolo Piccioli collaborated with 17 painters, and the final result was sublime. The overlapping of bold colours was a joy for the eye, a breath of fresh air. The fluid silhouettes and clean-cut lines, the game of form and colours, showed a modern way to make couture.

Impeccable tailoring and know-how. Effortless beauty and elegance. An expression of art, and a real celebration of couture.
Bravo!

The Exception To The Rule Read More »