Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification

Exploring the Impact of Galliano’s Vision on Maison Margiela and the Fashion Industry

Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification, completed in the recent Artisanal SS24 couture show, prompts questions about the direction of the fashion industry.

As John Galliano fully embraces his creative role at Margiela, we witness a brand transfiguration under a new vision. The show, a clear display of Galliano’s aesthetic, raises inquiries about the essence of this transformation. Why not celebrate Galliano’s vision under his own brand name? What is the significance of reshaping Margiela into something it originally was not?

SS24 Haute Couture: Margiela’s Gallianification completed

A play of lights and shadows. In an underpass of the Seine, a theatrical representation showed the ritual of dressing, using the body as a canvas, attempting to express the emotional form of man. Like puppets moved by invisible strings, the models seemed to come to life step by step together with the clothes and accessories they wore. Lace, latex, very tight corsets, jackets and suits with visible stitching.
In fact, Margiela Artisanal SS24 couture show was one of the most beautiful during the recent Haute Couture Week in Paris. Definitely, Galliano knows what couture is. Yet, it was 100% Galliano and almost no trace of Margiela, if not for a few tabi shoes or the four-corner white-stitch of the logo.

A brief background

In 2011, Dior ousted John Galliano after a video emerged in which the British designer hurled anti-Semitic insults at a couple in a Paris bar. So, following the scandal, he was fired from his own fashion label, majority-owned by Dior.
In 2014, OTB – Only The Brave, Renzo Rosso’s company – appointed John Galliano as designer for Maison Margiela.
The news, to us, sounded like a joke. For instance, it was like asking Dolce & Gabbana to design Helmut Lang. Two different visions, opposite perspectives, indeed. Both should exist in the fashion industry, providing a diverse representation. Yet, each one under the creative guidance of a designer who can allow a specific sensibility to emerge.

Implications for the fashion industry

Of course, in the hands of Galliano, Margiela took a different turn. And now, with this Haute Couture skilful show, Gallianification of Margiela has been fully completed. Therefore, a reputable designer becomes the creative director of another label, taking just a few hints from the original designer. And in the end, celebrates his own vision of fashion, but under another brand name.

Perhaps, a revenge for Galliano in a field deprived of meaning. However, we wonder, what’s the point of this? Why doesn’t Galliano do Galliano under his own brand name? Why do they need to transform Margiela into what Margiela is not?

In the grand spectacle of Galliano’s creative takeover at Maison Margiela, the Margiela Artisanal SS24 couture show provided a poignant chapter in the ongoing saga of Gallianification. As the brand transforms under Galliano’s unmistakable vision, we’re left contemplating the broader implications for the fashion industry. In fact, this issue regards all the luxury brands in which the creative founder is no longer in charge. Specifically, we suffer for Margiela because we adore it, the original… Martin Margiela. In fact, we carried MM6 in our boutique in the past.

Decoding Margiela’s Gallianification unveils an absurd reality: an industry once celebrated for its idiosyncrasy now seems an empty vessel awaiting the next lucrative trend. Simply a game. But where is the fashion industry heading with these games?

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Paris Fashion Week 24

Between power and creativity

What was in the air at Paris Fashion Week 24? Less excessive designs, except for a few ones. In general, more elegance and simplicity. As well as in Milano, collections seemed to be more wearable.

Every season, the fashion Maisons presents high-budget commercial shows competing with the best location. Luxury venues contribute to making it a matter of power more than creativity. For instance, Eiffel’s background at Saint Laurent was impressive. However, we found intriguing the image of a worker-chic woman.

Above all, we applaud the Undercover brand, which really stood out with its essential but very evocative presentation. Its fashion show had the feeling of poetry with suits, sweatshirts, jewellery and chandeliers encapsulated in tulle. Also, the dreamy atmosphere piqued in the finale, with terrific x-ray terrarium dresses, was so mind-blowing, the chills it gave us!

Apart from the overall mood and the idea of style, we cannot understand the choice of switching Sarah Burton with the umpteenth young male designer. Sarah Burton’s collection for McQueen SS24 is absolutely stunning: a maxi red rose printed on a white slip dress or two evening gowns that seem like petals that fluctuate at every step, revealing the shade of colours. Isn’t the Kering group satisfied? Seán McGirr, the new designer, comes from JW Anderson, a move that gives the idea of a more commercial take. Perhaps they believe McQueen must reach a larger audience to grow and make more money, assuming McQueen can be a mass brand.

But what do these groups try to do? Such a move reminds us of the game played with Margiela. Perhaps they made it for a larger audience, but it’s not Margiela anymore. Will this be the path for McQueen, too?

In the end, celebrities and more celebrities. No big risk. The Paris Fashion Week 24 seems to be a matter of power and money more than creativity.

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Fashion out of the beaten paths

Emotions & beauty in a distinct venue

Come and discover fashion out of the beaten paths, where you’ll find exceptional artisanal work made with care and love for uniqueness.

Walking through showrooms for our Spring-Summer 24 research, it’s been amazing to witness the work of some designers who express their own vision of fashion. Those who follow their own path, meaning they don’t feel involved in the latest trends just to sell more. Those who offer a good design, beautiful fabrics, and timeless quality. Away from the commercial logic of overproduction and mass distribution. Precisely, they do the opposite. Few words and hard work. Therefore, they provide real value.

A path of recognizable value

For instance, entering Marc Le Bihan‘s space was like opening the Narnia door: you open it and get in a world apart. Set up in a post-industrial structure, a large room with big windows from which a late summer September sun brightened the garments. After a look around, a shiny black piano in a corner gave us a clue we didn’t get immediately, just because we did not expect it. Indeed, while peaking through the clothing along the perimeter of the four-room sides, we noticed a wood bar behind them. So we connected the dots: it was a dance school! 

Fashion out of the beaten paths

Marc Le Bihan’s “Danseuse Line” has found the perfect frame. But so it was for the gorgeous pristine white lace or linens, the silk slip dresses in different shapes. And the tye-dye knitwear. Likewise, Jean-Francois Mimilla’s materic jewels, whose precious crocheted hand work makes them unique. 

Uniqueness out of the beaten paths

And so, the atmosphere was unique, warm, quiet and poetic. Marc le Bihan’s clothes, like Jean Francois Mimilla jewels, delivered a tactile experience made of dreamy creativity, out of the ordinary, and, because of its uniqueness, even more beautiful.

Independent designers and artisanal fashion provide the opportunity to own unique, high-quality pieces that are not mass-produced or widely available. That is the essence of luxury style.

However, the whole set-up affirmed that there’s still something meaningful in fashion. It doesn’t have to mingle with the mainstream. Indeed, it’s not for all, but you can find exceptional fashion out of the beaten paths. 

Another note of appreciation: the space was fully accessible. Don’t take it for granted in the fashion field!

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Delicate erosion: Meagratia SS24

Inspiration from Rakuten Fashion Week

In search of inspiration for the SS24 season, from the Rakuten Fashion Week, which just took place in Tokyo, we share the Meagratia collection film “Delicate erosion.”

Meagratia is a Japanese brand, and Takafumi Sekine is the designer. What do we expect from Tokyo? Creativity, unconventional design, uniqueness.

On a side note, we still divide collections into seasons for pure convention. In other words, it’s just to give a sense of order. However, we usually select meaningful pieces with a timeless aesthetic. Good design and quality last forever. Also, we tend to pick many seasonless garments: pieces that, with a layering style, work almost throughout the year.

We love the Meagratia brand and find his work interesting for its subtle sense of style and meticulous detailing. Also, the designer’s passionate research of vintage pieces made modern through skilled design work represents a labour of love for fashion. Definitely not for the mass market; it’s for those who appreciate uniqueness.

Delicate erosion – Meagratia SS24 collection film

His unconventional, personal language emerges in his collection films, season after season. And so, we invite you to see “Delicate erosion” Meagratia SS24 collection film here:

As you can see, getting some inspiration from the Meagratia SS24 collection film, the colour palette is delicate but intense. Fabrics are textured or printed but easy to wear. And the design elements are so unique they beautifully stand out. Another great point is the genderless approach, which makes the collection contemporary and transversal. Indeed, all of these elements come together to create a sensory experience that evokes feelings of elegance, sophistication, and timeless beauty.

Meagratia’s designs are the perfect style choice #formodernhumans
Always keep in mind that you don’t need more; you need only the right pieces. Which means less but much better quality.

Get in touch with us wherever you are! We will show you only the most unique pieces worth buying.

Last reminder:
Worldwide shipping is available!
In order to provide unicity and a sustainable approach, our selection offers a limited number of pieces.

WhatsApp us directly from here!

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Fashion experts vs sustainable brands

Spring-Summer 24 fashion exhibitions

With Spring-Summer 24 selling season-opening, fashion experts are meeting sustainable brands. And so, we received invitations for panels and fashion events, aiming to facilitate the shift towards eco-conscious products. But the ultimate goal isn’t sustainability. It never is so. 

Unfortunately, brands that have an idea of what sustainability is, aren’t understood by fashion buyers and showrooms. Indeed, both industry players had the same comments, which seems weird and leaves little hope for specific brands to find a market that would sustain their business in an evolved fashion panorama. But fundamentally, these comments say a lot about what sustainability represents in the fashion industry.

Fashion experts’ remarks on sustainable brands

We’ll guide you through some opinions we heard about these new brands:
1- Is this clothing collection sustainable?
2- This collection is too small. Why just a few pieces?
3- It’s expensive! Prices are too high. We want the same clothes at a much lower price.

Now the responses we would love to give, point after point and face to face, to the fashion experts:
To the very first question everyone asks when approaching a booth: is it sustainable? 
What do you mean? Can’t you understand it from the size of the collection, style choice, quality and materials? Do you need a tag stating if a garment is eco-conscious? 

The second one: your collection is too small! 
Guess what! Capsule collections should be the way out from decades of racks packed with new items! The way out from overproduction! Isn’t a capsule collection more sustainable? It seems showrooms and buyers still need endless items, fabrics and colour options, which is the opposite of sustainable fashion.

Then comes the third request, which makes you understand these experts have no idea what they say: it’s expensive! We want this dress, but cheaper. Well, sustainable materials are expensive! And if that designer makes a specific dress in a much cheaper material, it wouldn’t make sense. 

And so, the last request takes us back to the first: is it sustainable? 
Why do you ask? What do you expect from sustainable brands if you ask for much cheaper materials?

Is sustainability the goal?

Dear fashion experts, buyers and showrooms, are you sure you want sustainable fashion brands? Do you know what sustainable means? It seems your ideas are confused, indeed. And perhaps those panel discussions have a different goal. 

In fact, it sounds like your interest in sustainability stops at justifying your presence on the market.

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