Milano Fashion Week 24

Simplicity and practicality for Spring-Summer 24

Milano Fashion Week 24 is over. So we want to analyse the overall feelings. What’s in the air?

It looks like fashion designers had to focus on safety. So, they provided simplicity and practicality through those tailored techniques typical of the Italian style. In fact, collections were more down to earth. Easy to wear, which also means easy to sell. Market demands, not creative genius.

Spring-Summer 24

We were happy to witness the end of the circus Alessandro Michele made for Gucci. Perhaps Sabato De Sarno needs time to develop his own path, but anything would have been better than the flea market jumble. However, it would be interesting to understand to what degree this collection is the result of his view or a commercial request.

Still related to the above topic, there’s a discussion about the expectations on genderless fashion or the end of it.
We are astonished! Specifically, we cannot understand why people identify genderless style with the circus! Can anyone explain?
Take a garment without asking yourself if it comes from a specific gender category. Then wear it (with elegance, if you can). This is genderless! And it’s still here!

Indeed, isn’t the work of Mattieu Blazy for Bottega Veneta a blend of blurred gender identities? Though fabrics and outfits seemed too heavy for a Spring-Summer collection.

Thoughts on Milano Fashion Week 24

Overall, the impression is that clothing was the background as brands mainly plan to sell accessories. On the one hand, we are happy for the end of the circus. It was time to take a sense of elegance and Italian tailoring back. But on the other hand, brands mostly looked the same. Unless you have a trained eye, and so you can say, ‘this accessory is from this designer’ – it is almost impossible to tell the difference from one to another.

Milano Fashion Week 24 has probably satisfied people’s needs and the industry turnover. But, in this game of overlapping design codes, and by compromising to any current contingency, we wonder where brands are going. More precisely, do you think brands are reliable?

Milano Fashion Week 24 Read More »

Man comes, and man goes!

What’s the point of fluidity if brands still present gendered fashion shows?

“Man comes, and man goes” is the feeling we get analysing this men’s fashion week. First was men’s fashion shows, then designers said, man no, not anymore. It was better to present men’s and women’s in one event. And now men’s shows are yes again! 
So, what’s going on? Do designers have an idea of what the world needs, or are they just babbling?

Man’s fashion and style

On the one hand, the vision of men lately has become more free. They can wear clothes that weren’t appropriate a while ago. Although sometimes man’s image seems confused, certainly, it’s almost devoid of elegance. That is because fluid style is associated with an often ridiculous portrayal.

Furthermore, we wonder who brands are talking to. Young boys? In fact, the age seems lowered a lot. But can teenagers afford luxury designer clothes? Apart from a tiny audience, it doesn’t seem likely. So, again we wonder what worldview these top brands promote.

Women and gender-fluid

On the other hand, the idea of women remains quite antiquated and vulgar, even when approaching gender-fluid. But with the claim of showing a woman free from patriarchy and who imposes her own personality. Free to dress as she likes, they say. In other words, a woman’s style that reflects her liberation from man-imposed rules. 
Of course, we do not agree with this storytelling at all. It’s just a fake representation in order to sell the same old things.

Spring-Summer 24 men’s fashion show: gender-fluid and sustainability

Specifically, as regards men’s fashion week, we touch upon a few considerations:
From a style perspective, there’s no need for gendered lines, though we believe that fluidity doesn’t mean ridiculous. 
But what’s the point of fluidity if brands still present gendered shows?

Most importantly, from a sustainability viewpoint, we can’t see the need for a separate fashion week for men and women. In fact, it seems like designers say everything and its opposite six months later, completely disowning words of common sense they pronounced earlier. There’s no clear and consistent line of thought. Which, in times of climate change and tangible disasters we face on a daily basis, seems absolutely crazy.

Man comes, and man goes! Read More »