responsiblefashion

Destroy to Create

Reimagining the Fashion Industry

Destroy the fashion industry, dismantle it entirely, to create something better.
On the day Dries Van Noten bids farewell to fashion, let’s take a moment to acknowledge all the brands that continue to put in the effort to create something meaningful amidst the senseless fashion landscape of today.

Actually, there were indications of Van Noten’s decision to step down from his eponymous brand. Specifically, when he launched the beauty line. In fact, it is telling that luxury brands are recognized more for their perfumes, lipsticks, or nail polishes than their clothing lines! Which says a lot about people’s perception of fashion. Now, Van Noten’s announcement explains the motivation behind the beauty line. Of course, it was a strategic, calculated business move to play it safe.

However, throughout his career, Van Noten remained steadfast in his singular vision, unfazed by the dictates of the press. He proudly declared himself a “small brand in a big fashion industry,” embodying a spirit of defiance against conformity.

Generating a new fashion industry #formodernhumans

Therefore, we think about all the designers we meet in our fashion research, aiming to assemble a wardrobe of meaningful pieces. Beyond the commercial giants, there is a multitude of small to tiny brands that offer exceptional value. These brave creatives are a beacon of hope. They dare to challenge the status quo, striving to redefine the essence of good design. And that in a world where people can only understand a famous label but hardly go beyond that.

So, we applaud these courageous dreamers, recognizing that we must dismantle the existing paradigm to usher in a new era of fashion. We must destroy to create a better fashion industry. Disrupt the conventional way of operating the business, the unethical practices, and the machinations of commerce. In their place, let us construct a new lexicon. One that starts by acknowledging reality. One rooted in accountability. And that promotes responsible creativity with respect for people and the planet.

In a world where we are drowning in plastic, waste and too much of everything, less is deemed more, but quality must reign supreme. We must embrace a philosophy of value, cherishing each garment as a testament to craftsmanship and integrity.
Destroy to create means leave the superfluous and embrace the essential, for in destruction lies the power to generate the new.

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Fashion Industry: a Dying Patient

Why do Brands Insist on Therapeutic Obstinacy?

As the fashion industry prepares for the FW24-25 selling campaign amidst a myriad of challenges, it becomes increasingly evident that it is teetering on the brink of irrelevance, reminiscent of a dying patient. Despite being aware, industry operators persist in maintaining the status quo. This begs the question: are they awaiting a miraculous revival or resigned to an inevitable collapse?

The fashion industry operates within its own framework, dictated by seasonal trends and gender divisions. As suite123 boutique, these days, we’re accustomed to receiving updates on fashion brands, showrooms, and exhibitions worldwide for the Fall/Winter 24-25 season. Most, conveniently accessible online, minimising the need for extensive travel and promoting sustainability in our research endeavours.

Yet, it is evident that the fashion industry as a whole is grappling with profound challenges. Clearly, it’s in a state of extreme struggle. Moreover, this realisation permeates the industry, acknowledged by insiders who witness its struggles firsthand.

In such a climate, one might expect brands to conduct their business with a paradigm shift.

However, the status quo remains largely unaltered. In fact, there’s a reluctance to embrace change. No adjustments in how brands assemble, present and sell their collections. Also, no change in garment manufacturing processes, contractual agreements, or collaborative endeavours aimed at mitigating the decline of the fashion industry. No change in policies, no alternative pathways. None of that!

Brands persist in adhering to an outdated model, clinging to a production pattern characterised by overproduction. But, that production model based on overproduction has failed and proven unsustainable. Indeed, it is no longer suitable for our times.

Stagnation or evolution: can the fashion industry thrive by clinging to an outdated model?

So, the question arises: Can the fashion industry evolve while obstinately clinging to a failing paradigm? By insisting on pursuing an outdated failing model?

For genuine progress to occur, the industry must reconsider its approach, presenting a viable path forward. Therefore, move away from the unsustainable cycle of the overproduction model, corporate world, and unending growth. Adopting more sustainable and ethical practices such as producing items in response to demand, implementing made-to-order initiatives, reducing waste, and embracing circular economy principles.
In essence, the call is for a shift towards a more responsible approach to ensure the industry’s long-term viability.

As new FW24-25 season campaigns unfold, the fashion industry resembles a dying patient, teetering on the brink of irrelevance. However, brands persist in their therapeutic obstinacy instead of trying new strategies.

Perhaps it will take the complete demolition of the fashion industry for the voices advocating change to be heard. And for those trying to make a change to be finally seen.

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Stop sales!

Things that matter #formodernhumans

In order to promote a healthier consumption pattern, we need to stop end-of-season sales. In fact, sales, in general, are a short-sighted strategy that triggers compulsive behaviour and perpetrates a toxic productive system.

Fighting unsustainable consumption and production patterns is part of the new guidelines the UN released recently. The fashion industry contributed directly and significantly to the triple planetary climate change crisis, nature and biodiversity loss, pollution and waste.

This is what really matters! But changing consumption habits takes immediate action.

So, the purpose is to eradicate overconsumption. Therefore, we address high markdowns as an element of a money-driven system that has generated a devastating environmental impact. But first, we need to understand how the system works. Then, we find solutions.

How the fashion system works:

Brands ask for budgets (minimum amount or quantity) from retailers. Usually, these budgets increase season after season.
Because of this practice, retailers buy way more than they can sell. So, they generate overstock.
This overstock, in turn, leads to a higher retail price. That is because a high quantity of merchandise gets sold during end-of-season sales. And higher prices during the season covers partially this loss.
Because of this overstock, retailers apply frequent promotions, markdowns and sales in order to induce clients to purchase more.

It’s a vicious cycle where everything is connected. Consumption and production go hand in hand. So, we cannot fix one if we do not fix the other.

Stop Sales! How retailers can eradicate overconsumption:

  • reduced quantities of clothing and accessories ordered per season in store
  • avoiding overstock would allow equitable prices throughout the season
  • stop Black Fridays, promotions and sales
  • teach clients to buy less, much less, but only quality products. Clothing and accessories made to last over time. Also, teach them the value of their purchase.

Sales aren’t a sustainable strategy. The more you buy discounted items, the more brands flood the market with pointless products. And where are we heading with this behaviour? Read it here!

What consumers can do:

Don’t be part of the system that has generated the climate crisis. Try to change it instead.
Buy less, much less during the season. Take only quality garments you can match with the clothes you already have and that you can reuse.
Don’t buy trendy items, but choose a timeless aesthetic.
Quality, not quantity. And remember: good design doesn’t have an expiry date.

If you want to share your views or know more, comment here below or WhatsApp!

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UN against overconsumption

Fashion marketers as the key to a new narrative

The UN says fashion needs to stop promoting overconsumption. Indeed, we are perfectly aligned since we focused more on this evolved path, about four years ago. Though a selection of pieces to wear for a lifetime has always been part of our viewpoint.
Specifically, the UN Environment Programme and UN climate change have just released new recommendations for those who work in fashion marketing and communication.

“We are draining humanity’s lifeblood through vampiric overconsumption and unsustainable use, and evaporating it through global heating,” said U.N. Secretary-General Antonio Guterres. (source)

UN against overconsumption: a systemic issue

According to the UN, mass consumption is a systemic issue. So, they identify marketing as the key to fostering cultural change. That is how: leading consumers to change consumption rates, increasing consumer knowledge and shifting consumer behaviours. The idea is to tackle misinformation and greenwashing through science-based communication and transparency.

Although we agree with the idea of fighting overconsumption and overproduction, we are afraid that many of the words suggested in the playbook are buzzwords hiding greenwashing.
Marketing is an ensemble of activities finalised to sell products or services. So far, fashion marketing has contributed to creating confusion through deliberate operations. It isn’t likely that corporations are ready to leave behind their growth pattern. Ethics over money sounds weird from a capitalistic view.

Fashion industry: overproduction & overconsumption

Overproduction and overconsumption are two faces of the same coin, capitalism. In other words, a vicious and exploitative economic system which triggers toxic behaviours.

Overproduction leads to overconsumption: this point was clear to us. So, as a fashion retailer, about four years ago, we thought it made sense to reduce the quantity of clothing we ordered each season dramatically. That allowed us to avoid overstock and end-of-season sales while promoting a reduction of consumption based on fewer products but good quality. And so, a timeless selection of non-trend-based garments with great design value.
Also, getting familiar with the concept of degrowth as an effective strategy to drive change, we trust our choice was valuable.

However, it’s not enough, and we need to do more. But it’s complicated to work since most fashion industry players still promote growth, perhaps hiding it behind traceability QR Codes. Now they call it green growth. Which, as clearly explained in Kevin Anderson’s video, is meaningless. It leads nowhere.

Furthermore, it’s hard to find solutions when consumers shop from retailers who still work on an overproduction basis. How can these retailers stop promoting overconsumption with shops full to the brim of clothes?

Most importantly, does the UN leave the fight against overconsumption to the good heart of marketers? Of course, fashion marketing is part of the problem. And an ethical approach could work. But expecting redemption without regulations and strict controls in a rotten system seems a bit naive.

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Fashion waste recycling

An urgent issue every fashion designer must confront

March 18th was Global Recycling Day, highlighting the challenge of waste recycling, which is deeply connected to the fashion industry. As a matter of fact, recycling is crucial for a circular economy and circular fashion too.

These international days aim to raise awareness on important matters. Unfortunately, we celebrate something but tend to forget the issue the day after.

Fashion industry & waste

As widely highlighted in our previous posts, the fashion industry is part of the waste problem. According to Earth.org, of the 100 billion garments produced each year, 92 million tons end up in landfills. To give a prompt idea, this means that the equivalent of a rubbish truck full of clothes ends up in landfill sites every second.

Waste colonialism

Waste is a global issue. In fact, that is the byproduct of our economic system – capitalism. A structure based on overproduction and exploitation. However, the civilised global north found a way to get rid of it. Because we don’t want to see our garbage. Also, in front of problems, we prefer to close our eyes.
So, how does the global north get rid of waste? By dumping the problem in the global south! In case you missed the news, please, read what happens in the Atacama desert in Chile. Or in Ghana, Africa.
As we can see, Northern countries, the rich and civilised ones, are still perpetuating colonialism. Specifically, waste colonialism.

Recycling waste

“Global Recycling Foundation” promotes the idea of considering waste as an opportunity:

“Every year, the Earth yields billions of tons of natural resources and at some point, in the not too distant future, it will run out.
That’s why we must think again about what we throw away – seeing not waste, but opportunity.”

Waste recycling in fashion industry

First, in order to reduce waste, we need to consume less, much less! But also, we must find solutions for the tons of discarded clothing already shipped to Africa and Chile.

Most importantly, we expect every fashion designer and every company to do their bit and hold themselves accountable. Recycling and upcycling must become part of the plan for the fashion industry. Now!

There’s no time to waste!

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