Paris Haute Couture FW23-24

Riots and Fashion in Paris

Paris Haute Couture FW23-24 risked cancellation due to five days of riots across France, which spread after the police killed a young boy. Though Celine cancelled its defile, the fashion shows took place.

We have seen so much vulgarity lately that runways like Chanel, Dior, and Armani, at least, gave a sense of elegance. That is on a positive note.

“In my opinion, today there are few maisons that really do haute couture. I’m starting to no longer recognise myself in this Paris. I have always placed myself in a more glamorous Paris, and now I no longer find myself there. I wonder if it’s not time for a change.” – said Giorgio Armani

However, it seems clear, once again, that megabrands aren’t willing to take any effective action to fight the climate emergency, apart from lots of talks about sustainable fashion. Which is pointless since nothing ever changes.

Paris Haute Couture FW23-24 vs sustainability

On the one hand, some brands had the plus of showing elegance, which stands out in an ocean of horrible and gross clothing. On the other hand, they sent on the runway countless numbers of new outfits. Precisely on the latter, we need to take into account two main points:
First, very few lucky ones can afford these couture clothes. Maybe they would have enough choices even with smaller collections. Even because couture is tailor-made, so it allows customising every single item.
Second, these clothes will be worn by celebrities who receive very generous compensation for wearing them. A marketing operation that isn’t free. Meaning it is not free for the fashion Maison but, in the end, for the final customers, too. In fact, consumers who purchase from those brands will bear the price. Indeed the cost of celebrities gets spread on the company costs in general and on any product category.

Therefore, we wonder: what is the point of the overproduction behind these couture shows? Who is it for? Is it to allure consumers while ignoring a climate emergency, but then, taking part in sustainability round tables? Please stop it!
Smaller couture collections would work anyway. By having, at the same time, a lower impact and less waste of materials and resources.

Further news: Saudi Arabia is a newcomer to Paris Haute Couture FW23-24. Indeed, they are investing billions to become the new favourites in the high-end fashion segment. Money that comes from oil, which, we expect, brands will invest in sustainable fashion!

In short, couture, by definition, is sustainable. But mega brands are doing their best to make it unsustainable.

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The fashion regeneration

A circular vision from the Paris Haute Couture Week

Although the status quo is hard to fight, some designers made a strong visual impact showing fashion regeneration at the Paris Haute Couture.

Regeneration: a new narrative in the fashion industry

While showing beautiful clothes, some brave young designers proposed thrilling setups to make people think. Specifically, they delivered a new narrative raising awareness of fashion overproduction and waste. Therefore, they promoted a more sustainable lifestyle based on circularity.

Since finance owns top brands, the fashion business is an uneven fight. Indeed, small or independent designers put a lot of effort into competing with big luxury conglomerates that have no interest in changing.

But, some spectacular shows made a difference at the Paris Haute Couture week.

One-of-a-kind: a positive change

Yuima Nakazato is a talented designer who presented impressive work!
The collection named “INHERIT” wants to inspire a positive change. Born from upcycling, it is a mix of captivating design, enveloping lines and evocative colours. So, he showed the beauty of fashion innovation and the downside of fashion pollution. Chills and creativity.
Inspired by a trip to Kenya, the introduction video showed an Africa devastated by fashion waste.

“There are many places in Nairobi that have been contaminated with textiles. We need to change that.”

Yuima Nakazato SS23 Couture

Circular couture

Marine Serre: proposed a fashion regenerated through a circular design. To explain, we quote her concept for her Couture show:

“The RISING SHELTER show featured a fully circular set design. The tower weighs 1.3 tons of vintage clothes inside three 8m high towers full of used denim, silk scarves and t-shirts that will be regenerated for the collection’s production.”

Marine Serre SS23 Couture

Perhaps highlighting the reality with the terrifying imposing towers full of fashion waste will help understand the urgency no one wants to see.

However, these young designers deserve credit for addressing fashion waste and climate change, leading fashion regeneration with creativity and skilful design. And so, a positive change for the future.

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