overconsumption

Sustainability is ridiculous

7 June, 2023 / Leave a Comment

Why playing this shell game should be banned


Sustainability is ridiculous. Not because the concept per se is stupid or does not make sense. But because it is too broad, too vague, and, therefore, deceptive. 

Sustainable fashion? This is greenwashing

Sometimes for ignorance or superficiality, yet in most cases, with intentionality, as those who play the sustainable game are perfectly aware of what they do. But, in the end, sustainability is just a new way to make money by showing a green facade. The industry, which goes from consultancy to fashion brand retail to NGOs, is flourishing. As a matter of fact, industry players spend time on “eco – green – conscious” labels, but it seems they are playing a shell game. The purpose is to hide and manipulate truths. 

In most cases, the effort is all about running after the latest eco-friendly label. But is it enough to achieve sustainability? It is the case of Chloé, for instance. Richemont hired Gabriela Hearst for her eco credentials, and now, three years later, the designer is exiting the company. Though they say revenue increased by 60%, their design is far away from the beauty of the past. 

Why sustainability is ridiculous

However, we have some doubts about the strategy Chloé has promoted so far. How can a luxury brand based on seasonal trends manage its business without damaging the planet? We wonder how fashion brands that shift to a purpose-driven business can be credible if they still run their activity on an overproduction pattern. Also, they attain the status of B-Corp. Most importantly, we wonder how B-Corp certification can combine with overproduction.
That seems contradictory. In fact, in this context, sustainability is ridiculous.

Specifically, we wonder if a drastic reduction of supply by offering only beautiful design garments made with “sustainable materials” and respecting the production chain would be an effective strategy.

But, of course, we understand that manipulating reality with the effect of fueling overconsumption is the most effective way to make money. So keep up promoting a green world!

Cultural change

29 May, 2023 / Leave a Comment

Between utopia and feasibility

Are we ready for cultural change? The real one, we mean. When it comes to sustainability, do we believe in all the marketing bullshit that flooded communication lately? Or are we open to change for real? Ready to pick this opportunity up and make something better beyond the facades? 

People are bombarded with deceiving information: 
“We are sustainable because we recycle garments!”
“We use milk, coconut or whatever fibres.” 
“Hey, we have a conscious section in our store!”
“There’s a sustainable selection on our e-shop.”
“And we are the ones who do it best because we plant trees!”

Forget all that! Even the ‘plant a tree’ claim is proven misleading. Indeed, all these messages have the sole purpose of making people over-consume. As a matter of fact, not a single company has changed their overproduction pattern.

On the one hand, this is marketing, what brands need to say in order to show a clean face. But, on the other, we can find alternative reports and explorations that dig the truth out. Are we open to reading those reports? Understand how things really are? And, therefore, start questioning? 

Of course, sustainability is a path to pursue with conviction and self-commitment, despite all the difficulties, misleading messages, and smoke and mirrors. 

But is the effort worth it? Or, as many people with whom we exchange thoughts tell us, sustainability is just one of those beautiful utopias! To sell, one must think only of selling more. That is what companies have to do. And people, for their part, have to buy whatever product. 

So, in the context of trade, specifically in the fashion field, is sustainability a utopia or is it feasible? What’s your viewpoint on this?

Are you open to cultural change? We would love to hear your thoughts. 
Drop us an email, WhatsApp, or comment here below!

Is sustainable fashion elitist? BOF questions

12 April, 2023 / Leave a Comment

Misunderstanding sustainability or a manipulated behaviour

In a recent post, Business of Fashion raised the question: is sustainable fashion elitist?

Earlier, a fashion writer, Derek Guy, tweeted his thoughts about menswear, inviting his audience to “buy less, buy better”, considering quality pieces over fast fashion.
Well, we agree! But this post sparked controversy: many said sustainable fashion is elitist because most people cannot afford luxury clothes.

Surely we cannot deny that sustainable materials plus production chains that give proper wages to their workers cannot provide cheap products.

But let’s go through some points:

• cheap clothes and disposable fashion are not sustainable!
They offer an easy-to-connect narrative, but they aren’t sustainable. Not only do they damage the environment, but need an underpaid workforce to thrive.
• luxury doesn’t mean sustainable! Indeed, fast fashion and most “luxury” brands are two faces of the same coin. They both share an overproduction pattern based on people and planet exploitation.
• brands that call themselves sustainable but are distributed everywhere, so mass-produced, aren’t sustainable.

Download “The sustainability basics” here!

Education, not just money

Mindful consumption is one of the building blocks of a modern lifestyle, and it is a matter of education, which not necessarily rich people have! The conversation on sustainability is not about inducing low incomes to stop consumption but helping them develop better habits. On the contrary, high incomes must reduce their purchases drastically because their lifestyle’s impact is much higher.

Sustainability is not just about shopping. It’s a lifestyle choice in respect of nature, and people and workers’ rights. A necessity in the face of climate change!

It is tricky to say what is sustainable and what is not. So, the fashion industry can force brands to stick to specific regulations, making things clear to consumers. But, in the end, each individual must learn and become a conscious consumer. Nothing happens on one side only.

How can we explain this complex situation?

We live in a consumer society where everything revolves around consumption. People overconsume at the expense of other human beings and the planet as if it is the only reason for living. Of course, many cannot afford expensive items. But vintage represents a sustainable and circular option. Also, you can find up-cycled clothes in every price range.

So, is sustainable fashion elitist? And why people prefer to buy fast fashion? A quote by Upton Sinclair gives a perfect insight:

“It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends upon his not understanding it.”

Upton Sinclair

Sustainable Christmas, the news says!

11 April, 2023 / Leave a Comment

Festive season greenwashing is on

While people hunt for cheap gifts, TV is awash with stories about sustainable Christmas. And the narrative is getting awkward.

You must have heard the news describing millions of led lights that decorate towns or giant Christmas trees. Recyclable but enormous. Of course, in the spirit of a sustainable Christmas.

Millions. Giant. Any doubts? Are you ok with this version of the story?

Sustainable Christmas?

“Millions” and “sustainable” in the same sentence don’t make sense. But also, giant and sustainable sounds weird. However, in the middle of an energy crisis, with people invited to save electricity consumption, we expected something different than lights everywhere!
Even the idea: “Look, we change decorations every year, but we are sustainable!” is meaningless.

Greenwashing news is the practice of reporting nonsense to manipulate people. In the end, they talk about trillions of eco-friendly decorations to promote overconsumption and disposable gifts.

Overconsumption and cheap gifts

As the Christmas season approaches, disposable product supply grows enormously. Indeed, people want more, and retailers satisfy the request, triggering a vicious cycle that leaves no hope. During the festive season, all the resolutions about mindful consumption disappear.

Christmas is about finding cheap gifts, little presents that will end up soon in the trash bin. Unfortunately, our waste will not disappear.

Low-impact Christmas

This Christmas, purchase your gifts with a purpose: buy only items that will not end up in the landfill. Check materials: are they made to last? Don’t go for fast fashion or disposable items, but choose quality. For instance, a book is always a great gift.

Also, limit the packaging. Since metallic paper isn’t recyclable, use magazines, brown paper or newspapers to make your creative wrappings. And reuse your Christmas decorations, no one will be offended! Most importantly, don’t waste food.

Sustainable Christmas does not exist unless we are ready to change our habits completely. Choose meaningful gifts and inspire the others around you to see things differently.

Change the narrative and your actions to make Christmas sustainable for real!

Black Friday? Buy nothing!

10 April, 2023 / Leave a Comment

Why say no to Black Friday

Here we go again: Black Friday is back, and we urge you to buy nothing! Yes, we are still at this point. That is where the matter rests: filling up the world with rubbish products.
Even though our economic system failed, and the effects are visible, most people ignore it. And they do not realise we cannot suffer the consequence of mindless shopping behaviours anymore.

Black Friday: the chain system

Manufacturers increase the production of poor-quality goods. Retailers, in turn, order more of them in order to satisfy their customers’ compulsive desire for novelties.
Indeed, that is capitalism: overproduction, which leads to unnecessary overconsumption. And all this happens by exploiting workers and the planet. In other words, those who pay the true cost of these heavy discounts with no fair wages, tons of waste, gas emissions and pollution.

buy nothing

Why should we care?

The point is this: we failed the 1.5-degree target for carbon emission. One of the biggest reasons is that we consume too much. How is it not clear yet? So we have only one possibility: to reduce our consumption drastically. And look, that is what sustainable consumption means! It’s not just about purchasing sustainable products but reducing the goods we buy, consume and throw away.

What can we do? Buy nothing!

Eventually, excessive consumerism is destroying the world. And massive sales aren’t consistent with a thoughtful lifestyle. So we need to get rid of this toxic culture. You know what? No change will ever come from corporations or governments. The system won’t change. But we can change and educate ourselves. Because with our ideas and wallet, we promote the world we want. Also, lower turnovers would be the only language corporations would listen to.

Modern humans are conscious consumers. “Less stuff, more meaning” is our guiding principle. Use this day to spend time with your family or your beloved ones. Read books, more books! Listen to music! But do not contribute to a system that leads to destruction.

What can you do? Buy nothing!

Fashion brands and Russian oil

10 April, 2023

How fashion is funding the Russian conflict

Have you ever thought there’s a link between fashion brands and Russian oil? Yes, your mass-produced clothing might be indirectly fueling the war in Ukraine.

Changing markets Foundation released the report: “Dressed to Kill: Fashion brands’ hidden links to Russian oil in a time of war.”
This investigation uncovered hidden supply chains connecting fashion brands and Russian oil. So, purchasing some specific polyester clothing might be a way to fuel the war in Ukraine.

Fashion & Russian oil – the connection

Major Indian and Chinese polyester producers source oil from Russia to make synthetic fibre. Then, they sell yarn and fabrics to garment manufacturers, who, in turn, produce clothes for well-known fashion brands.

Even though many countries have imposed sanctions on Russia, they continue selling clothes made with Russian oil. So, in the end, these same countries are financially supporting Russia’s economy during the invasion of Ukraine. Also, the research highlights links with Saudi Arabia and fracked gas from the US.

We invite you to watch this video:

Fossil fashion thrives on overproduction and an infinite growth system, a clear expression of capitalism. But, as we can see with our eyes, exponential growth is not sustainable for our planet. Indeed, it pushes people toward overconsumption of cheap garments, fostering that buy-use-toss behaviour typical of our society. A toxic consuming habit which, in turn, led to a spiralling waste crisis.
The result is a massive exploitation of people and the planet, with an immense climate cost.

Are your clothes made with Russian oil?

Cheap fashion brands are attractive, but someone else pays the cost: exploited people and our burning planet. And you may also end up supporting Russia’s war.

So, be mindful and choose quality items made to last. One quality garment is better than two bags full of fast-fashion garbage!

Generation Z & sustainability

10 April, 2023

The topic of sustainability has a warped meaning and understanding amongst most consumers today, Generation Z included.

Gen Z is said to be the upcoming generation for a positive environmental shift in our society. This generation has been at the forefront of the sustainability movement. Pushing companies and brands to conduct sustainable practices in an effort to save the planet we are destroying.

What sustainability means to Generation Z

But does this young generation truly know what sustainability means?
Unfortunately, this “green movement” has become misunderstood as greenwashing. With the lack of research and education on environmentalism, brands have been able to blatantly lie to their consumers. By engaging in greenwashing tactics, they conveyed an image of sustainability and ethicality that simply does not exist to them.

It is now the responsibility of the younger generations to wake up, and do their research. And hold these brands accountable for their greenwashing schemes and harmful environmental practices.

The research on Gen Z

I spent some time interviewing college students currently studying abroad in Milano to understand their point of view. What sustainability means to them. And how they practice it in their daily lives. From these conversations I concluded a distorted idea of greenwashing and an unhealthy practice of overconsumption.
All this is due to a lack of transparency between brands and consumers. When discussing the students knowledge of sustainability or familiarity with the term ‘greenwashing’, I received a variety of answers. Many had never heard of greenwashing or how it affected the choices they make daily.

The truth on Gen Z & sustainability

Students told me that sustainability meant being cautious and putting the environment first. Also, an item or lifestyle alleged to be sustainable, can be trusted with no further questioning. Such contradictory answers surprised me. How can one be cautious yet trust that the word ‘sustainable’ is 100% true?

Students attest to practising sustainability by donating clothes, vintage or thrift shopping, and creating capsule wardrobes. But, when asked what brands they typically shop from, the most common response I received was some of the brands guilty of the greatest greenwashing techniques. The brands these students shop from attest to caring for the earth and market themselves as “conscious” or “committed” to sustainability. Yet still participate in mass overproduction.

Although students brought up capsule wardrobes quite often, overconsumption still seems to have a huge hold on this generation due to the hyper-fast fashion movement. Students claimed to go shopping regularly, at least once a month.

An advice I can give to this generation who yearns for a more sustainable lifestyle is to question everything you see. Don’t support brands that shout about sustainability to sharpen their image for the purpose of gaining social acceptance. But a brand that does good because they care. The word ‘sustainable’ is not regulated and, ultimately, does not need to hold any truth. So, when you see that buzzword word on a tag, don’t forget to fact-check that claim.

Generation Z seems to have an interest, and desire for a more sustainable earth. But, unfortunately, lacks the inclination to question the brands they shop from. Hiding behind the term “ignorance is bliss” is not a viable excuse for a dying planet screaming for change.

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A piece written by Leyla Jackson – apparel merchandising student from Washington State University. Currently studying at Università Cattolica Del Sacro Cuore in Milan and interning for suite123. Passionate about working towards a more sustainable future for not only the fashion industry, but our planet.

How products change

3 April, 2023

Changing fashion to change our culture

Products change when consumers’ tastes change. But given that consumption is all about cheap and disposable products, we are in big trouble.

The fashion industry was oriented toward a new direction to preserve the environment and people’s life. But the reality highlighted even more terrible consumption habits, as in the case of ultra-fast fashion we discussed in our previous post.

The combination of overproduction and overconsumption is the economic pattern that dominates the fashion industry. Also, it is the same as we see in any other field. Therefore, it is a cultural issue.
Consuming disposable products is a trend that has captivated young generations too. Indeed, accessible cheap products give the illusion of richness.

Mass culture is the commercialization of culture. So, making products for commercial purposes only. People are so involved in this extensive offer that there’s no escape from it. Or so it seems, at least.

But climate change is the issue we need to face, and it’s urgent.
And so, how do we change consumers’ tastes?

Change products: fashion and culture

Changing fashion means changing the culture.
Fashion makes products that portray our culture, revealing our society’s tastes. That means fashion tells what we consume.
In other words, changing what we consume involves changing fashion. And so, our culture.

The change starts with acknowledging the new needs and incorporating them into designing meaningful products for people who care.

As a boutique and insiders, we contribute by selecting only valuable garments and good design. And by presenting a different viewpoint for people like us, who do not recognize themselves in the mass trends.

Your choice, if you care, is evolving towards a conscious lifestyle aiming to change for the better. Or leave things the way they are, persisting with the blind exploitation of people and the planet.

In the end, you have two options: either you can play the game, or you can change it!

From fast to ultra-fast: a cultural regression

3 April, 2023

Is ultra-fashion what people learned from the pandemic?

From fast to ultra-fast fashion, we are witnessing a cultural regression in the fashion industry. And so, in our society. Something that makes you question the human ability to learn, especially in the face of such serious events we have lived in lately.

Forget the long-awaited thoughtful consumption habits! Started after the pandemic, this trend represents a sharp and clear setback.

To reduce its impact on the planet, the fashion industry was supposed to evolve, experimenting with new sustainable paths. The pandemic, which worked as a catalyst, highlighted this urgent matter.
Therefore, a more balanced structure and timing, shorter production chains, and healthier consumption habits seemed a conscious evolution to pursue. A need to change for the better.

The ultra fast growth

But unfortunately, the industry moved from fast fashion to ultra-fast fashion! And you know what? Consumers really loved it!
Astonishing! That is the biggest change trending everywhere.

Now with 5€, you can buy a dress. Of course, this new production trend is more polluting than fast fashion. But does anyone care? Even if it is more polluting, ultra-fast fashion has become very very popular.

Ultra-fast fashion and resale

At the same time, the resale of these extremely poor-quality items grows. But what is the point of reselling ultra-fast fashion garments? Reselling garments made with a zero concept of durability is just smoke and mirrors.

Indeed reselling garbage clothing that, if you are lucky, will survive the first laundry simply hides a push to overconsume. The industry makes higher productions of very cheap garments. And as a consequence, young and not-so-young purchase more and more pieces.

All of this has nothing to do with sustainability! So, when they say Gen Z prioritises sustainability, what are they talking about? And what do they mean by sustainability?

Ultra fast: the wrong answer

The problems we are witnessing will not be solved by making more things and consuming more!
But it seems very few people really care. Do you care?

Enslaving workers: has anything changed?

3 April, 2023

It seems clear that our economic system is based on enslaving workers. That’s how it thrives.

Here we quote an excerpt of Li Edelkoort’s talk from the Voices stage – via Business of Fashion. Edelkoort is one of the most respected trend forecasters. This talk is from 2015, definitely not something new. 

So, why it’s worth sharing again? Because nothing has changed over time!

Enslaving workers and cheap deals

Low prices are enslaving workers and destroying cultural value. 
“The manufacturing of clothes has gone through a rapid and sordid restructuring process, which has seen production leave the western world to profit from and exploit low-income countries,” said Edelkoort. “How can a product that needs to be sown, grown, harvested, combed, spun, knitted, cut and stitched, finished, printed, labelled, packaged and transported cost a couple of Euros?” she asked, comparing fashion’s supply chain to slavery.

“On the hunt for cheaper deals, volume companies, but also some luxury brands, have trusted the making of their wages to underpaid workers living in dire conditions,” she continued. “What’s more, these prices imply the clothes are to be thrown away, discarded like a condom before being loved and savoured, teaching young consumers that fashion has no value. We should make legislation to have minimum prices.”

Has anything changed so far? 

No. That’s why it makes sense to touch on this issue again.

No one planned to find solutions. Brands and governments will never do it! A spontaneous act of understanding is not part of their plans. But the pandemic has contributed to exacerbating the situation. Many people lost their job, and the working conditions are even worse now.

Seven years later, we are still just talking. And talking about change when nothing ever changes can be frustrating. We like words, but actions must follow or change won’t happen.

So we signed the “Good clothes fair pay” petition, which demands a living wage for the people who make our clothes. They need 1 million EU citizen signatures. 

Let’s help them!