Man comes, and man goes!

What’s the point of fluidity if brands still present gendered fashion shows?

“Man comes, and man goes” is the feeling we get analysing this men’s fashion week. First was men’s fashion shows, then designers said, man no, not anymore. It was better to present men’s and women’s in one event. And now men’s shows are yes again! 
So, what’s going on? Do designers have an idea of what the world needs, or are they just babbling?

Man’s fashion and style

On the one hand, the vision of men lately has become more free. They can wear clothes that weren’t appropriate a while ago. Although sometimes man’s image seems confused, certainly, it’s almost devoid of elegance. That is because fluid style is associated with an often ridiculous portrayal.

Furthermore, we wonder who brands are talking to. Young boys? In fact, the age seems lowered a lot. But can teenagers afford luxury designer clothes? Apart from a tiny audience, it doesn’t seem likely. So, again we wonder what worldview these top brands promote.

Women and gender-fluid

On the other hand, the idea of women remains quite antiquated and vulgar, even when approaching gender-fluid. But with the claim of showing a woman free from patriarchy and who imposes her own personality. Free to dress as she likes, they say. In other words, a woman’s style that reflects her liberation from man-imposed rules. 
Of course, we do not agree with this storytelling at all. It’s just a fake representation in order to sell the same old things.

Spring-Summer 24 men’s fashion show: gender-fluid and sustainability

Specifically, as regards men’s fashion week, we touch upon a few considerations:
From a style perspective, there’s no need for gendered lines, though we believe that fluidity doesn’t mean ridiculous. 
But what’s the point of fluidity if brands still present gendered shows?

Most importantly, from a sustainability viewpoint, we can’t see the need for a separate fashion week for men and women. In fact, it seems like designers say everything and its opposite six months later, completely disowning words of common sense they pronounced earlier. There’s no clear and consistent line of thought. Which, in times of climate change and tangible disasters we face on a daily basis, seems absolutely crazy.

Prada / Simons: What went wrong?

FW 22-23 men’s fashion show – Consistency “did not report”

Consistency is a fundamental value in designing a product. And also in contributing to keeping it alive over time, shaping a recognisable aesthetic. Which evolves, but its DNA is always perceivable.

Some brands become a one-hit-wonder, a flash in the pan. But it takes hard work to remain on the market (and a lot of money too).

For this purpose, as a strategy, brands follow what’s popular, doing what other designers already did. In this way, they hope to sell more and thrive. But, doing so, they lose their core image, their identity. They lose their face.
Therefore, the message sent will lack that fundamental value – consistency.

We saw the Prada Fall-Winter 22/23 men’s fashion show. And we were very, very surprised. Though not in a good way.
The silhouette recalled Balenciaga so much that the point of the direction wasn’t clear. Also, underlining – “we do luxury, they do Slavic thrift shop” sounds like an excuse.

What went wrong?

There’s no evolution in terms of style. The runway was just a reproduction of things already seen.
And not that we do not appreciate oversize clothing. On the contrary, baggy was part of our selection long before it became popular.
We just gave up trying to understand Balenciaga’s nonsensical extremization. But we cannot see why the lady who has launched the ‘aesthetics of the ugly’ – now carried over by everyone, undoubtedly not with the same refinement – could ever take the decision to follow the mainstream.
That is a surprise! The biggest news! Instead of making a trend, Prada follows the trend.

Where’s the Pradaness?

If the presence of Raf Simons was supposed to bring fresh air in co-designing the brand, it was better when she was doing by-herself-herself-alone-her-own-brand.

With hindsight, Mrs Prada searching for support in co-designing sounds like ‘Hey, I cannot cope with the new trends.’
Did she have to cope with the new trends? No. She simply had to be herself. Be consistent by giving her own vision of ‘the new.’

But this is the love for fashion that speaks. What really counts are numbers. So, let’s finance rule the game. And say goodbye to consistency.