Takeaways from Men’s Fashion

Decoding Fall/Winter 24 Menswear & Gender Neutrality

Here are our takeaways from Men’s Fashion Week in Milano and Paris. Let’s decipher the latest shows and presentations in the evolving landscape of men’s fashion and genderless designs.

No age boundaries with mixed-age models

Finally, the myth of eternal youth and perfection is questioned, and the idea of making fashion accessible to all ages conquers the runways. In fact, those who appreciate concepts like quality or tailoring aren’t typically young people. While the youth are too immersed in showcasing brands, some middle-aged individuals with unique styles value niche fashion over a big logo. Addressing independent thinkers directly through fashion shows gets straight to the point.

White for winter

Trousers, blazers, coats, knitwear or shirts in candid, pure, soothing white. Not only in wool but also in cotton. A kind of spiritual take. Specifically, the juxtaposition of white cotton garments with wool blazers emerged as a modern and effortlessly cool style. Although we know it’s not easy to sell, we adore it.

Punk fusion

Punk aesthetics took centre stage with elements such as zippers, leather garments, checks, stripes, and shoes featuring chunky soles. The revival of punk style, when blended with tailored clothes, creates a sublime and edgy fusion. It seems like punk never dies!

Genderless fashion & fluid identities

Silhouettes and styles are undeniably more fluid; identities on the runways are less defined. Moreover, men’s and women’s designs coexisted seamlessly in the same shows. The sense of sharing clothes is ingrained in our DNA, and we appreciate this style. However, despite embracing genderless fashion, the question arises: why maintain separate men’s and women’s fashion weeks? The potential for unification, discussed during the challenges posed by Covid-19, seems to have dissipated. Some, like Sacai, clarified their stance by naming the show: “Men’s Autumn/Winter 24 & Women’s Autumn 24.” But what’s the point of a double women’s show for an industry that strives for sustainability? Clearly, the industry’s commitment to sustainability remains inconsistent.


In conclusion, in light of our takeaways from Men’s Fashion, it is clear that the industry is grappling with a paradox: actions don’t align with principles. In fact, the industry talks about timeless fashion while being a sales-driven system. Promotes genderless fashion but maintains separate shows. Ultimately, it discusses sustainability but cannot stop revealing its inconsistency. To move forward, the fashion industry needs a more coherent and progressive approach.

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Man comes, and man goes!

What’s the point of fluidity if brands still present gendered fashion shows?

“Man comes, and man goes” is the feeling we get analysing this men’s fashion week. First was men’s fashion shows, then designers said, man no, not anymore. It was better to present men’s and women’s in one event. And now men’s shows are yes again! 
So, what’s going on? Do designers have an idea of what the world needs, or are they just babbling?

Man’s fashion and style

On the one hand, the vision of men lately has become more free. They can wear clothes that weren’t appropriate a while ago. Although sometimes man’s image seems confused, certainly, it’s almost devoid of elegance. That is because fluid style is associated with an often ridiculous portrayal.

Furthermore, we wonder who brands are talking to. Young boys? In fact, the age seems lowered a lot. But can teenagers afford luxury designer clothes? Apart from a tiny audience, it doesn’t seem likely. So, again we wonder what worldview these top brands promote.

Women and gender-fluid

On the other hand, the idea of women remains quite antiquated and vulgar, even when approaching gender-fluid. But with the claim of showing a woman free from patriarchy and who imposes her own personality. Free to dress as she likes, they say. In other words, a woman’s style that reflects her liberation from man-imposed rules. 
Of course, we do not agree with this storytelling at all. It’s just a fake representation in order to sell the same old things.

Spring-Summer 24 men’s fashion show: gender-fluid and sustainability

Specifically, as regards men’s fashion week, we touch upon a few considerations:
From a style perspective, there’s no need for gendered lines, though we believe that fluidity doesn’t mean ridiculous. 
But what’s the point of fluidity if brands still present gendered shows?

Most importantly, from a sustainability viewpoint, we can’t see the need for a separate fashion week for men and women. In fact, it seems like designers say everything and its opposite six months later, completely disowning words of common sense they pronounced earlier. There’s no clear and consistent line of thought. Which, in times of climate change and tangible disasters we face on a daily basis, seems absolutely crazy.

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Prada / Simons: What went wrong?

FW 22-23 men’s fashion show – Consistency “did not report”

Consistency is a fundamental value in designing a product. And also in contributing to keeping it alive over time, shaping a recognisable aesthetic. Which evolves, but its DNA is always perceivable.

Some brands become a one-hit-wonder, a flash in the pan. But it takes hard work to remain on the market (and a lot of money too).

For this purpose, as a strategy, brands follow what’s popular, doing what other designers already did. In this way, they hope to sell more and thrive. But, doing so, they lose their core image, their identity. They lose their face.
Therefore, the message sent will lack that fundamental value – consistency.

We saw the Prada Fall-Winter 22/23 men’s fashion show. And we were very, very surprised. Though not in a good way.
The silhouette recalled Balenciaga so much that the point of the direction wasn’t clear. Also, underlining – “we do luxury, they do Slavic thrift shop” sounds like an excuse.

What went wrong?

There’s no evolution in terms of style. The runway was just a reproduction of things already seen.
And not that we do not appreciate oversize clothing. On the contrary, baggy was part of our selection long before it became popular.
We just gave up trying to understand Balenciaga’s nonsensical extremization. But we cannot see why the lady who has launched the ‘aesthetics of the ugly’ – now carried over by everyone, undoubtedly not with the same refinement – could ever take the decision to follow the mainstream.
That is a surprise! The biggest news! Instead of making a trend, Prada follows the trend.

Where’s the Pradaness?

If the presence of Raf Simons was supposed to bring fresh air in co-designing the brand, it was better when she was doing by-herself-herself-alone-her-own-brand.

With hindsight, Mrs Prada searching for support in co-designing sounds like ‘Hey, I cannot cope with the new trends.’
Did she have to cope with the new trends? No. She simply had to be herself. Be consistent by giving her own vision of ‘the new.’

But this is the love for fashion that speaks. What really counts are numbers. So, let’s finance rule the game. And say goodbye to consistency.

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