fastfashion

The Environmental Economic Principles Illustrated by Fast Fashion

Delving into Environmental Economics Related to the Most Polluting Segment of the Fashion Industry


This post examines how environmental economic principles manifest in the practices and consequences of the fast fashion industry.

Fast fashion is known for its rapid turnover of trendy clothing at very low prices and has been incorporated more and more in our day-to-day clothing. However, behind the illusion of trendy and cheap pieces, this pressure to minimise costs and speed up production leads to a complex range of environmental and economic implications.

Some of the reasons fast fashion is becoming a progressively bigger issue for the environment include its use of toxic and heap textile dyes, polluting waterways as well as the amount of landfill waste generated by the industry. According to Ting and Stagner (2023), the life cycle of clothing has been constantly shorter, starting from the 1980s. This means that we are using and disposing of clothes faster and faster. As this analysis explores, most of the unused or unwanted pieces end up in a landfill or burned, contributing to climate change. Otherwise, research shows that about 450,000 tonnes of clothes exported from the United States become part of a second-hand clothing trade. That impacts low and middle-income countries.

Fast fashion’s environmental economic principles (full analysis)

Inefficiency of resource extraction

This concept relates to the long and complex supply chain of the market. Starting from agriculture and petrochemical production (for synthetic fibre production, such as the famous polyester) to manufacturing, logistics and retail. Each step of the production of the garments has an impact on the environment due to chemical, energy, material and water use.
In fact, research shows that approximately 60% of clothing is made from petroleum and 30% from cotton. Thus having a large impact on the environment. Additionally, many of these chemicals used in the production of textiles are harmful to both the factory workers, the environment as well as the end consumers ( Niinimäki et al., 2020).
Even though consumers are now aware of the environmental and personal impact of those chemicals, why do they keep on buying these products?

Fast-fashion marketing

Marketing becomes an even stronger tool when brainwashing consumers with the famous concept of “Green Washing.”Greenwashing explains the behaviour of firms when engaging in misleading marketing strategies/ information about their environmental performance or the environmental benefits of a product (Delmas & Burbano, 2011).

Pollution as a negative externality

A negative externality is the imposition of a cost by one party (in this example, a fast fashion firm) onto another. The process of manufacturing the clothes involved in producing the fast fashion items generates significant pollution. This includes air pollution when producing textiles, water pollution from dyeing fabrics and waste generation from packaging. Additionally, the growth of textile fibres, manufacturing and clothing assembly tends to take place in countries with cheaper labour, such as China and Bangladesh. According to Ting and Stagner (2023), there has been such an enormous increase in fast fashion during the past 10 years that firms had to increase supply, increasing the risk of slavery-like working conditions in those middle/low-income countries.

Waste generated

One of the pillars of the increase in fast fashion is the rise in consumerism in society. A world with a culture of over-consumption and rapid disposal of goods will consequently have problems with excessive waste in landfills. When it comes to the textile industry, it is challenging to recycle or biodegrade due to the complex nature of synthetic fibres which are the base for most fast fashion garments. The business model of fast fashion is designed to be unsustainable and by definition. It is “a fast-response system that encourages disposability” (Ting & Stagner, 2023).

Conclusion

In conclusion, all consumers share responsibility for this waste crisis that the fast fashion industry has created. The rapid pursuit of economies of scale in this industry leads to the expense of sustainability, as mass production and global supply chains also allow fashion brands to keep their unsustainable business model. This practice leads to several environmental economic principles, such as negative externalities, resource extraction and depletion, waste disposal and labour exploitation.

In order to address this issue, there is a need for a multifaceted approach that considers all factors such as social, economic and environmental. For instance, sustainable alternatives, circular economy models, ethical fashion practices, and consumer awareness campaigns are essential to mitigate the negative effects of fast fashion on the environment and the people.

References

ABC News In-Depth. (2021, August 12). The environmental disaster fuelled by used clothes and fast fashion | Foreign Correspondent. 

Barnosky, A. Matzke, N., … Tomiya, S. (2011). Has the Earth’s sixth mass extinction already arrived? Nature, (471), 51-57.

CBC News. (2023, October 28). Exposing the secrets of sustainable fashion (Marketplace). 

Niinimäki, K., Peters, G., Dahlbo, H. et al. The environmental price of fast fashion. Nat Rev Earth Environ 1, 189–200 (2020).

Kitson, J. C., & Moller, H. (2008). Looking after your ground: Resource management practice by Rakiura Maori Titi Harvesters. Papers and Proceedings of the Royal Society of Tasmania, 161-176.

The Economist. (2018, November 30). The true cost of fast fashion

Ting, T. Z.-T., & Stagner, J. A. (2023). Fast Fashion – wearing out the planet. International Journal of Environmental Studies, 856–866.


✍️ Credit: Post written by Gabriela Preuhs, a Brazilian scholar pursuing studies in economics and psychology at Massey University in Auckland, New Zealand.

The Environmental Economic Principles Illustrated by Fast Fashion Read More »

 The Role of Fear in Contemporary Society

From Fast Fashion to Climate Change: Challenging the Norms For Meaningful Change


Addressing the role of fear in contemporary society is crucial if we want to make meaningful change. Fear resides at the core of our society, holding such influence over our lifestyles that change cannot occur. We are afraid to be the first ones to say something, always looking to others for direction instead of following our own path. Because most of the population supports fast fashion brands like Zara, H&M, or Shein, cultural acceptance is created, and the devastating impact of fast fashion becomes insignificant. 

Accepting the norms vs. making progress


Although we may have an idea of the harms of fast fashion, the widespread acceptance of brands like Zara, H&M and Shein makes us feel that our choices are justified. If others accept them, we can accept them too. So, this societal acceptance pushes us to continue supporting these brands. But how can change ever occur if this cycle continues? 

In fact, a new marketing technique in the fashion industry aims to make customers feel safe. However, we are not meant to feel safe; we are meant to be challenged and encouraged to ask questions. Indeed, this is the idea – brands like Zara do not want you to ask questions. They want you to be a robot or a follower so that they can increase their profits. 

But the right brands will help you find meaning and encourage individuality and change. This is our mission.

Questioning authority: power, knowledge and profit


Power does not always correlate with knowledge; it often has more to do with profit. Our society frequently succumbs to the influence exerted by the relationship between power and knowledge. When fear arises, we look to those in power for safety. However, we should not rely on power for safety and awareness since we can be led falsely. It’s important to form our own opinions and analyze information before accepting it. 

For example, climate change is a great fear at the moment. Corporations and government leaders tell us that they’re working on improvements to stop the crisis, but, in reality, they’re the root of the problem. In fact, leaders take private jets to attend climate conferences, completely counteracting the point of a climate conference. At the 2021 COP26 climate summit, 118 private jets for the attendees emitted 1,400 tons of carbon. This demonstrates that much of what we see is a facade.

Taking control of our future 


In examining the dynamics of fear in contemporary society, it becomes evident that our collective hesitance to challenge the status quo extends beyond consumer habits. From the acceptance of fast fashion giants to the alarming complacency regarding climate change, fear hinders our potential for meaningful change. We find ourselves entrusting our future to those who may not have our best interests at heart. 

Yet, amidst this landscape of apprehension, there emerges a call to action — a call to break free from fear and societal norms and take control of our destinies.


✍️ Credit: Post written by Joelle Elliott, an American scholar pursuing studies in Fashion at Cattolica University in Milan; currently interning with suite123

 The Role of Fear in Contemporary Society Read More »

How to cut fashion waste

Reuse and repair in the era of fast fashion

In order to cut fashion waste, the French government will pay a repair bonus to help people with their damaged clothes and shoes. An amount from 6€ to 25€ will cover the repairing cost of garments in workshops or cobblers who will be part of the scheme.

Indeed, an alarming amount of clothes end up in landfills. Since fashion brands keep putting out new garments in huge quantities, governments must find solutions.

The point on fashion waste

The news sounds really great! But let’s consider a few things:

Would anyone throw away clothes of value? Of course, not. Or, at least, it is extremely rare. The garments ending up in the garbage bin aren’t pieces made to last but clothing intentionally made for that purpose. Buy, wear and toss. That is mass production: low prices, poor quality and slaves for manufacturing (individuals no one cares about because if they did, they would stop buying certain products).

In fact, over the last twenty years, purchasing fast-fashion clothing and shoes has become popular. Rich and poor people enjoy it. For the rich is a whim, and for the low-income a necessity. But both love purchasing products that last like a bag of chips.

Product longevity is one of the principles that attests to sustainability. What demonstrates product longevity?
Good design
Quality materials
Skilled craftsmanship

What if the repair cost is higher than the average price tag?

Now, it makes sense to put a patch on the bleeding, but common sense should guide human choices. Therefore, can we cut fashion waste without stopping fast fashion? It doesn’t seem likely. In fact, curing the illness without eliminating the cause isn’t a good strategy.

Here comes the second point, if the French government wants to fight fashion waste, why did they allow the Shein runway in Paris? It may sound like a joke, but in the case of ultra-fast fashion, the repair costs would be higher than the price tag! Does it make any sense?

On how to cut fashion waste, there’s no easy solution. But for sure, we need a more radical approach.

How to cut fashion waste Read More »

Fashion waste visible from space

Atacama Desert: fast fashion’s disaster view via satellite

Fashion waste is now visible from space. Indeed SkyFi, an American startup that provides high-resolution satellite photos and recordings, has confirmed a giant pile of clothes in the Atacama Desert, Chile. And so, it happens that a piece of news released in 2021 is brought back, highlighting human inactivity and carelessness towards the waste we put out.

The Atacama Desert and the cost of fast fashion

The Atacama Desert, the driest desert in the world, is in Chile. Now it is an island of discarded clothing, including Christmas sweaters and ski boots, piling up in the desert. Indeed, Chile is a hub for secondhand and unsold clothing ending up there from all over the world. USA, Europe and Asia. Approximately 59,000 tons of garments arrive there every year. Clothing merchants buy part of it, but the majority, about 39,000 tons, end up in rubbish dumps in the desert. 
You can read our exploration here.

This is via the SkyFi website:
“The satellite image that we ordered of the clothes pile in Chile’s Atacama Desert really puts things into perspective. The size of the pile and the pollution it’s causing are visible from space, making it clear that there is a need for change in the fashion industry. Our mission to make Earth observation data easy and transparent is vital to identifying and addressing problems like this one.” 

Fashion industry vs change

On the one hand, it’s good to have another viewpoint on what is going on with fashion waste. That perspective about the earth from a distant observation is appalling. On the other, almost two years have gone by since the first news release, but nothing has changed over time! So, were we waiting for a satellite view to make a change?

The fashion industry, a capitalistic system based on the exploitation of people and the planet, has a huge responsibility. Despite the giant pile of clothes being confirmed, CEOs will not change. The fashion system will not change. But people have the power in their brains and wallet!

Today is World Environment Day, and the big news is that fashion waste is visible from space! Are we waiting for a satellite view from Mars to start moving a finger? Or is it time to educate ourselves and have an independent thought?

Fashion waste visible from space Read More »

Fashion brands and Russian oil

How fashion is funding the Russian conflict

Have you ever thought there’s a link between fashion brands and Russian oil? Yes, your mass-produced clothing might be indirectly fueling the war in Ukraine.

Changing markets Foundation released the report: “Dressed to Kill: Fashion brands’ hidden links to Russian oil in a time of war.”
This investigation uncovered hidden supply chains connecting fashion brands and Russian oil. So, purchasing some specific polyester clothing might be a way to fuel the war in Ukraine.

Fashion & Russian oil – the connection

Major Indian and Chinese polyester producers source oil from Russia to make synthetic fibre. Then, they sell yarn and fabrics to garment manufacturers, who, in turn, produce clothes for well-known fashion brands.

Even though many countries have imposed sanctions on Russia, they continue selling clothes made with Russian oil. So, in the end, these same countries are financially supporting Russia’s economy during the invasion of Ukraine. Also, the research highlights links with Saudi Arabia and fracked gas from the US.

We invite you to watch this video:


Fossil fashion thrives on overproduction and an infinite growth system, a clear expression of capitalism. But, as we can see with our eyes, exponential growth is not sustainable for our planet. Indeed, it pushes people toward overconsumption of cheap garments, fostering that buy-use-toss behaviour typical of our society. A toxic consuming habit which, in turn, led to a spiralling waste crisis.
The result is a massive exploitation of people and the planet, with an immense climate cost.

Are your clothes made with Russian oil?

Cheap fashion brands are attractive, but someone else pays the cost: exploited people and our burning planet. And you may also end up supporting Russia’s war.

So, be mindful and choose quality items made to last. One quality garment is better than two bags full of fast-fashion garbage!

Fashion brands and Russian oil Read More »