fashionindustry

Fashion Devastation and Mindless Shopping

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Another Example of People’s Inaction in Hunting for Cheap Clothing


Last week, we witnessed yet another TV program highlighting the immense devastation caused by the fashion industry and mindless shopping. This time, the focus was specifically on the fast fashion and ultra-fast fashion segments, although the issue pertains to the fashion system as a whole.

The program “Newsroom,” titled “Buy, Wear, and Toss,” covered aspects we’ve discussed repeatedly. Indeed, there was nothing new.

“Every year, 150 billion new pieces of clothing are produced worldwide, sold at rock-bottom prices, and of increasingly poor quality. They are worn only a few times, then end up at the back of the closet and are never used again. But what happens when we get rid of them? Where do all these clothes end up? The episode follows their long journeys to Ghana – where they pollute the beaches and the ocean – and the Atacama Desert in Chile, magnificent places that have become immense open-air dumps. Behind every t-shirt sold for a few euros, there is not only pollution but also the exploitation of low-cost labour and a huge business on which organised crime has also set its sights.”

Fashion devastation means overproduction, overconsumption, waste, pollution, exploited workers and modern-day slavery. We have explored these topics in detail in previous posts:

The land of waste
From fast to ultra-fast: a cultural regression
Fashion waste visible from space
Behind the Seams: Fashion Industry & Forced Labour


Conclusion

These are just a few examples, as we frequently share news, information, and thoughts on these crucial matters. Indeed, discussing style without setting priorities would be naive and utterly pointless.

In the end, no piece of clothing that costs just a few euros comes without the exploitation of a worker. However, one image powerfully captured the fashion devastation and mindless shopping: a man standing on heaps of garbage, mountains of clothing piling up, holding a tag from a certified green company. Sad irony! The consequences of mindless shopping in the Global North significantly impact the Global South. That conveys a clear idea of how fake the façade of sustainability in the fashion industry is.

While we are glad to see these issues gaining attention, as we have explored over the past five years of blogging, we feel a sense of bitterness in realising that nothing ever changes.

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Exclusive Slow Fashion in Small Batches

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Good Design & Thoughtful Lifestyle #ForModernHumans


What do we do?


We offer exclusive slow fashion in small batches, carefully selected from independent international designers, with a particular passion for Japanese brands. Our selection intentionally offers limited pieces to ensure uniqueness and a sustainable approach. Indeed, to minimise waste, we limit the quantities of pieces we order. Also, we reduce packaging to the essentials. Our aim is not to accumulate more but rather to prioritise quality over quantity. So, it is not whether an item is from the current season or not, but rather it is about whether it is truly worth having. It’s about enduring value.

Why do we do it?


The traditional fashion industry model, focused on endless growth, overproduction, and rampant consumption, is no longer viable. Game over. With 2024 potentially surpassing 2023 as the hottest year on record due to human-caused climate change, the need for a different approach is urgent. We must make a change.

Who is it for?


Our approach isn’t for everyone. If you don’t see a problem with overconsumption, disposable garments, frequent flights, constantly upgrading tech devices, and so on, our offerings may not resonate with you. However, if you recognize the urgency of climate breakdown and believe in the necessity of change, you’ll find kindred spirits here.

Our selections are for those who reject business as usual and understand the importance of respecting planetary boundaries. We cater to individuals who are passionate about discussing climate change, ethical business practices, and a thoughtful lifestyle. If we fail to understand and operate within these limits, we risk heading towards extinction.
Change must happen now, not later.

Evolved fashion design must start from this awareness. A meaningful lifestyle begins here. Our exclusive slow fashion in limited pieces reflects this ethos: encouraging questions, finding solutions, and sharing meaningful ideas.

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What is the Problem with People?

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Modern Lifestyle in the Face of Climate Emergency


What is the problem with people? Why, in the face of a looming climate disaster, do they fail to take action and persist in irresponsible behaviours? This question is crucial in contemporary society.

Any serious reflection on the fashion industry, which is our focus, must consider the big picture – human nature, psychology, economics, philosophy, and more. Setting priorities and reaching a consensus on that.

“People don’t want to see” – Rupert Read


“At the end of the day, the problem is not that the people aren’t smart enough to see; it is that they don’t want to see. These people don’t want to face reality. But reality is starting to bite us.” So stated Rupert Read, an academic, former spokesperson for Extinction Rebellion, and current director of the Climate Majority Project, during a panel addressing climate emergency.

Investigating the reasons behind inaction in the face of an undeniably alarming reality, Rupert Read offers a sobering response. We seem to be heading toward the end of civilization.

However, these insights are crucial for any serious analysis of the fashion industry and the broader economic system. As we scrutinise the fashion system, revealing its outdated and irresponsible practices, we realise we are confronting a cultural issue. This issue is deeply embedded in our economic system and human nature.

For instance, consumer spending has skyrocketed because products are now designed to be disposable, necessitating continuous replacement. Despite the obvious unsustainability of this model, people seem unwilling to change their habits.

We chose to act now. That’s why we changed how we operate our fashion business: small, lean, independent, value-driven. We select a limited number of pieces – no packaging, no waste. But most don’t understand it’s an intentional radical choice. Good design, quality and fairly paid workers – therefore made-to-last products – don’t come at low prices.

Conclusion


In short, what is the problem with people? According to Rupert Read, it’s not that people don’t see; they prefer to deny reality. This denial allows them to maintain their lifestyle – shopping for cheap green-labelled garments, eating fast food, or taking frequent flights, yet opting for improbable sustainable hotels. So conscience is clear.

And you, what are you choosing to do?

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Who Supports Independent Labels?

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Exploring The Current Fashion Scenario


There’s a poignant question in the fashion industry: who supports independent labels? The current fashion context is volatile, unstable and tough – especially for independent designers who struggle to survive. Just like independent fashion retailers. Therefore, many are making the difficult decision to close their businesses.

The current fashion scenario: mass fashion


On the one hand, there is mass fashion, encompassing both luxury brands and fast fashion. Despite their differences in price and perceived exclusivity, they follow the same model: overproduction, overconsumption, and exploitation of natural resources, labour, and human rights.
What do mass brands do? Business as usual; now cloaked in a veneer of greenwashing. And what do people want from them? Business as usual. Greenwashing allows consumers to feel comfortable with their purchases and lifestyles. We can affirm this because, even though consumers are aware of brands’ unfair practices towards people and the planet, they continue to support them wholeheartedly.

Niche brands and independent labels


On the other hand, there are niche designers, or small independent labels who produce limited quantities, creating a leaner and respectful business. Their prices are much higher than fast fashion for obvious reasons, yet lower than luxury brands. Unfortunately, according to Financial Times Fashion, many independent labels have had to close their doors this year. Although the article focuses on the US situation, it’s no different in Europe.

What happens to them, as well as to the independent retailers who support them? People complain about their prices, showing little understanding or respect for their work. In the end, what do they do? Consumers often choose fast fashion or discounted luxury brands while preaching sustainability and human rights support.

Conclusion


So, who supports independent labels? A very tiny percentage of free thinkers. Perhaps not enough to sustain their businesses. The risk of a polarised fashion industry is very strong. Based on this brief exploration, we must ask: will information and education ever contribute to creating a more diverse fashion scenario?  Or are we doomed to an irresponsible and destructive mass fashion?

Share your thoughts with us. We’d love to hear from you!

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What Does it Mean to Be a Fashion Designer Today?

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Emerging Brands & Investors: Between Change and Status Quo


What does it mean to be a fashion designer today? Launching a brand in today’s fashion landscape is a complex and challenging endeavour. But most follow outdated rules, missing the crux of the matter.

Aspiring designers often invest heavily in their education, attending expensive fashion design schools. However, upon graduation, they face a harsh reality: many brands prefer to hire celebrities to design collections, capitalizing on their fame rather than nurturing new talent. Perhaps someone does the actual work while the celebrity of the moment enjoys the spotlight. But that’s what it is.

New brands & investors


So, young and brave creatives launch their namesake brand. That step demands immense hard work, effort, commitment, and consistency. But once they enter the market, these small, independent brands realize that the panorama is crowded. Very crowded. Most importantly, to survive in such a competitive world, they need financial backing.

That seems to be the foundation upon which AZ Factory launched the new AZ Academy: teaching how to attract investors in the fashion field.

So, is it all about that? If a brand finds an investor, does the journey become easy? Money undeniably helps. But it comes with its own set of challenges. When big companies invest in a brand, designers lose the creative freedom that inspired them to start their journey in the first place. Profit margins and commercial viability take precedence over creativity and individual liberty. For instance, consider the case of Martin Margiela.
After his brand was acquired by OTB Group, he found himself increasingly constrained by the demands of a fast-paced, novelty-obsessed, and hyper-communicated fashion industry. The pressure to constantly produce new collections and maintain commercial success stifled his creative vision, leading him to leave his own brand. 

Now, let’s be clear. You won’t hear us saying money isn’t fundamental when launching and sustaining a brand. But, in this specific context of deep change, we need more than that. Priorities have changed, and we cannot separate fashion from the current cultural context. Does it make sense for a well-funded brand to promote huge collections, pre-collections and showcasing hundreds of samples, encouraging overconsumption? Therefore, perpetrating the same old overproduction pattern in a world on the edge of ecological breakdown?

Indeed, we cannot understand brands, established or new, who cannot distance themselves from this dangerous thought.

Conclusion: what does it mean to be a fashion designer today?


Launching a brand today is not just about finding investors. It goes far beyond that. Being a designer in the modern world is about having a vision – envisioning the future. It involves asking oneself: What future do I see? Do I want to maintain the status quo, or do I want to wipe out everything and start something better?

Well, corporations are not interested in that. That’s why we wonder if it makes sense to search for that kind of investor. Or is it better to clench your teeth and stay small, independent and free to bring about change?

Business as usual doesn’t work. New rules, new systems, and new ways of interacting with the audience. That is what we need.

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