fashionindustry

Greenpeace: Stop Fast Fashion

/ Leave a Comment

Take Action and Sign the Petition!

Greenpeace has just launched a new petition urging people to stop fast fashion. The issue is very dear to us,  indeed, our perspective on fashion stands in stark contrast to this. So, we invite you to read and take action.

Notice: The content presented in the post is sourced from Greenpeace investigations and reports.

Fast fashion: a polluting and unsustainable industry

Clothes sold and returned immediately. Accessories designed to last only one season. Destined to break within a few weeks. And soon ending up in landfills or in the Global South. With mass production, low quality, and ridiculously low prices, the fast fashion industry generates enormous amounts of waste and pollution. And behind the false promises of sustainability often lies greenwashing and a devastating environmental and social impact.

Fast fashion in 3 numbers:

  • 25%: the percentage of new clothing unsold and discarded every year
  • 1 second: every second, a truckload of discarded clothing is either burned or thrown into landfills
  • -1%: it’s the amount of clothing that is actually recycled into new garments.

Every year in Europe, 230 million pieces of clothing get destroyed.

Greenpeace: stop fast fashion clothing discarded in Africa
Image credit: Greenpeace

Textile fibres

Over 60% of the textile fibres (acrylic, polyester, nylon) used to produce our clothing are synthetic fibres, and many are derived from hydrocarbon refining, such as gas and oil. Polyester, derived from petroleum, begins to release microplastics after the first few washes, which end up in the oceans and then move up the food chain, also in our food. The fossil fuel industry grows and proliferates thanks to fast fashion as well.

The dark side of the most famous brands

  • Shein: According to 2022 data, many of its garments contain toxic substances, with some exceeding legal limits, particularly phthalates, up to 600% of the legal limit.
    (source: Greenpeace investigation 2022)
  • Nike, Ralph Lauren, Diesel: A 2022 investigation demonstrated that waste from the production of clothing and footwear for these three brands was being burned in brick kilns in Cambodia, exposing the involved workers to toxic fumes.
    (source: Greenpeace/Unearthed investigation)
  • Amazon, Temu, Zalando, Zara, H6M, OVS, Shein, Asos: Clothing returned after purchase on the most famous e-commerce platforms travels up to 10,000 kilometres and often is not resold.
    (source: Greenpeace investigation 2024)

Online returns: clothing travelling up to 10,000 kilometers

Clothing purchased and then returned multiple times. Parcels of clothing travelling for tens of thousands of kilometres between Europe and China, with no cost to the buyer and minimal expenses for the producing company. But with huge environmental impacts. This is what emerged from the Greenpeace Investigative Unit Italy investigation, which, for about two months, in collaboration with the television program Report, tracked the journeys of some garments in the fast-fashion sector purchased and returned through e-commerce platforms. It revealed a schizophrenic logistics chain, extremely long journeys, and the environmental impact in terms of equivalent CO2 emissions.

Sustainability? It’s just greenwashing!

Fast fashion companies promote their supposed sustainability and respect for better working conditions by stating on labels that their clothing items are produced with a lower environmental impact. However, it often amounts to nothing more than greenwashing. Our investigation of 29 brands has revealed the truth, and globally recognized brands such as Benetton Green Bee, Calzedonia Group, Decathlon Ecodesign, H&M Conscious, and Zara Join Life, just to name a few, have received a red mark regarding the credibility of the statements on their labels.

Greenpeace: sign the petition!

In conclusion, fast fashion, the ultra-rapid fashion sold at very very cheap prices, is not harmless. Unfortunately, the low prices are achieved through the exploitation of workers and harm to the environment. Of course, it wouldn’t exist without modern-day slavery. However, there are alternatives to fast fashion for every budget, for instance, vintage, second-hand and slow fashion. Most importantly, it’s a matter of education and awareness, accessible to all. No excuses left!
So, take action now by signing the Greenpeace petition to stop fast fashion and protect our planet! 👉 sign it here!

Greenpeace: Stop Fast Fashion Read More »

Destroy to Create

/ Leave a Comment

Reimagining the Fashion Industry

Destroy the fashion industry, dismantle it entirely, to create something better.
On the day Dries Van Noten bids farewell to fashion, let’s take a moment to acknowledge all the brands that continue to put in the effort to create something meaningful amidst the senseless fashion landscape of today.

Actually, there were indications of Van Noten’s decision to step down from his eponymous brand. Specifically, when he launched the beauty line. In fact, it is telling that luxury brands are recognized more for their perfumes, lipsticks, or nail polishes than their clothing lines! Which says a lot about people’s perception of fashion. Now, Van Noten’s announcement explains the motivation behind the beauty line. Of course, it was a strategic, calculated business move to play it safe.

However, throughout his career, Van Noten remained steadfast in his singular vision, unfazed by the dictates of the press. He proudly declared himself a “small brand in a big fashion industry,” embodying a spirit of defiance against conformity.

Generating a new fashion industry #formodernhumans

Therefore, we think about all the designers we meet in our fashion research, aiming to assemble a wardrobe of meaningful pieces. Beyond the commercial giants, there is a multitude of small to tiny brands that offer exceptional value. These brave creatives are a beacon of hope. They dare to challenge the status quo, striving to redefine the essence of good design. And that in a world where people can only understand a famous label but hardly go beyond that.

So, we applaud these courageous dreamers, recognizing that we must dismantle the existing paradigm to usher in a new era of fashion. We must destroy to create a better fashion industry. Disrupt the conventional way of operating the business, the unethical practices, and the machinations of commerce. In their place, let us construct a new lexicon. One that starts by acknowledging reality. One rooted in accountability. And that promotes responsible creativity with respect for people and the planet.

In a world where we are drowning in plastic, waste and too much of everything, less is deemed more, but quality must reign supreme. We must embrace a philosophy of value, cherishing each garment as a testament to craftsmanship and integrity.
Destroy to create means leave the superfluous and embrace the essential, for in destruction lies the power to generate the new.

Destroy to Create Read More »

The Algorithm Dictatorship

/ Leave a Comment

Exploring Challenges for Niche Fashion within Totalitarian Thought

The algorithm dictatorship, sculpting the fashion industry with utmost precision, has created a perfect regime where every click, swipe, and trend is meticulously curated. Yet, beneath this facade of efficiency, the danger of totalitarian thinking looms large.

In the ever-evolving landscape of fashion, where trends shift like sand dunes in the wind, algorithms emerge as a formidable force, reshaping the industry in unprecedented ways. In recent years, algorithms have become the silent puppeteers pulling the strings behind our screens. They curate our social media feeds, tailor our online shopping experiences, and even influence the designs we’re presented with.
According to Business of Fashion, ‘algorithms are increasingly driving what consumers see, like, buy, and wear, and not always for the best.’

While on the surface, this might seem like a convenient way to streamline decision-making and personalise experiences, the reality is far more complex. In fact, it’s never been easier to manipulate the masses. Like never before, people have the same faces, the same clothes, and the same accessories. Ultimately, the same conformist, homogeneous mass thought.

Niche fashion & the algorithm dictatorship

People like us, independent minds passionate about niche fashion, can see the danger of the algorithm dictatorship. Niche fashion thrives on creativity, individuality, and unconventional styles. Therefore, it finds itself at odds with the algorithms. But in a world where algorithms prioritize mass appeal and mainstream trends, the space for niche fashion to flourish is shrinking.

However, the issue goes beyond mere visibility. It strikes at the heart of diversity and innovation within the fashion industry. Algorithms, by their very nature, favour the familiar over the unfamiliar, the safe over the daring. While algorithms excel at processing large quantities of data, they may overlook or undervalue items or trends with lower levels of engagement or popularity. In essence, algorithms prioritize the visibility and promotion of items associated with larger numbers, potentially overshadowing niche or less prevalent offerings. This means that emerging designers and niche labels, already operating on the fringes of the industry, struggle to compete for attention against established brands.

Specifically, algorithms contribute to the homogenization of fashion, stifling creativity and diminishing the sense of discovery and excitement intrinsic to niche fashion. The possibility of stumbling upon a unique piece that speaks to your soul is gone. Instead, we’re fed a constant stream of cookie-cutter styles tailored to fit within the narrow confines of algorithmic preference.

Alternative sources #formodernhumans

To resist this contemporary totalitarian regime, the first step is to understand that algorithms control what we see. Second, seek out alternative sources of inspiration. This could involve following independent fashion designers on social media, exploring niche fashion blogs and publications, or shopping at small independent boutiques. Also, choosing alternative social media like the Fediverse. Therefore, prioritize platforms which offer diverse perspectives.

In conclusion, the algorithm dictatorship has created a totalitarian regime that manipulates people’s preferences in the fashion industry. And, more generally, in our lives. But amidst the stifling conformity, a rebellion brews: a call for passionate individuals to preserve the essence of niche fashion. A call for individuals to reclaim their autonomy.

The Algorithm Dictatorship Read More »

What Happened to Slow Fashion?

/ Leave a Comment

An Opportunity Lost in the Shadows of Rapid Change

What happened to slow fashion? As the foundations of the old world crumble, the emergence of a new one is fraught with struggles. Amidst this turmoil, we find ourselves pondering the fate of slow fashion.

Fashion industry: contradictory news

Headlines boast of growth and soaring sales for some brands, yet these reports seem akin to acts of sleight of hand, illusion games. Indeed, they prioritise the interests of banks over the stark realities that surround us. Moreover, these narratives clash with reports of top conglomerates stockpiling billions in unsold inventory.

In the relentless cycle of overproduction, an increase in output translates to a surge in revenue. However, much of this surplus finds its way to the incinerator rather than into the luxury retail.

Further underscoring the disintegration of the traditional fashion world are the ongoing bankruptcy reports. Most recently, Matches Fashion has found its place on this list. The Fraser Group, two months after the acquisition, claims the luxury e-tailer is on the brink of insolvency, a casualty of slowing demand for high-end products. Fraser laments: ‘The company systematically missed the targets of its business plan and, despite the group’s support, continued to record significant losses.’

Deciphering the destiny of slow fashion

In the wake of the pandemic-induced instability, sustainability has emerged as a cornerstone of discourse. Slow fashion, heralded as a rational solution to the problem of overproduction and resulting surplus inventory for shops, has garnered significant attention.

So, we’ve seen a lot of talks, round tables with the usual experts. Of course, by giving a voice to the same names that had caused the overproduction issue. A possible solution emerged, but after a few years of discussions on slow fashion, almost no one talks about it.

So, what happened to slow fashion? Was it just a temporary marketing strategy? Indeed, it languishes in obscurity, championed only by a handful of new brands struggling to gain traction. Meanwhile, the fashion industry remains wedded to antiquated profit models, heedless of its impending catastrophe.

The truth is, the world of fashion as we have known it has long been on shaky ground, particularly since the 1990s. But this reality holds little sway over the major players who continue to prioritise short-term profit over long-term sustainability.

Despite appearing as a missed opportunity amidst the whirlwind of rapid change, our commitment to and belief in slow fashion remains unwavering. We wholeheartedly support its principles and practices.
Please don’t hesitate to reach out to us with any thoughts or reflections you may have on this matter!

What Happened to Slow Fashion? Read More »

The Rise of the No-Phones Trend

/ Leave a Comment

Has Social Media Democratized Fashion? Or our Lives?

The no-phones trend is gaining momentum, extending its reach from fashion shows to theaters. Also, it prompts a critical examination of whether social media has truly democratized fashion.

The no-phones trend in fashion

At the recent Paris Fashion Week, The Row took a bold stance by banning phones, aiming to encourage attendees to fully engage with the runway spectacle without the distraction of screens. This move not only allowed spectators to immerse themselves in the live experience but also disrupted the instantaneous sharing of images on social media. Instead, attendees could reflect on and digest the show before sharing their experiences.

Critics argue that such restrictions, stating that social media has democratised fashion. But does merely observing luxury clothing on screens equate to affording luxury those items? So, can we define “democratic” a product we can only see but cannot afford to purchase?

The no-phones trend in theaters

Yesterday, we attended “Jesus Christ Superstar” -a glorious show at the “Teatro Sistina Chapiteau.” It reinforced the growing prevalence of the no-phones trend beyond fashion events. The announcer urged the audience to power down their devices and refrain from taking photos to fully appreciate the performance. Only during the grand finale, featuring the iconic Ted Neely, were attendees permitted to capture the moment on their phones. The show, commemorating the 50th anniversary of the film and the 30th anniversary of the production by Massimo Romeo Piparo, showcased remarkable talent and creativity, demonstrating the effectiveness of the no-phones policy.

Prof. Paolo Ercolani quotes Guy Debord: “The society of spectacle”

However, Professor Paolo Ercolani referenced a quote from Guy Debord’s “The Society of the Spectacle,” highlighting the danger of life becoming a mere accumulation of spectacles detached from genuine experiences.

“In societies where modern conditions of production prevail, life is presented as an immense accumulation of spectacles. Everything that was directly lived has receded into a representation.”

Furthermore: “The images detached from every aspect of life merge into a common stream in which the unity of that life can no longer be recovered. Fragmented views of reality regroup themselves into a new unity as a separate pseudo-world that can only be looked at. The specialisation of images of the world has culminated in a world of autonomised images where even the deceivers are deceived. The spectacle is a concrete inversion of life, an autonomous movement ofthe non living.”

Social media: democratizing fashion or dictating our lives?

Indeed, this raises the question of whether social media’s proliferation of images has truly democratised fashion or merely inundated us with unattainable ideals. Has social media democratised fashion? Or our lives?

In conclusion, the no-phones trend signifies a desire for genuine engagement and connection. But it also prompts reflection on the impact of social media on our perception of fashion and life itself.

The Rise of the No-Phones Trend Read More »