fashioneducation

Stop The Sales Madness

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Things that matter #formodernhumans


In order to promote a healthier consumption pattern, we need to stop the sales madness. In fact, sales, in general, are a short-sighted strategy that triggers compulsive behaviour and perpetrates a toxic productive system.

Fighting unsustainable consumption and production patterns is part of the new guidelines the UN released recently. The fashion industry contributed directly and significantly to the triple planetary climate change crisis, nature and biodiversity loss, pollution and waste. This is what really matters!

Changing consumption habits requires immediate action–the goal is to eradicate overconsumption. So, in this context, high markdowns are a key element of a money-driven system that has generated a devastating environmental impact. First, we must understand how the system works. Then, we can find solutions.

How the fashion system works: full prices and markdowns


Brands ask for budgets (minimum amount or quantity) from retailers. Usually, these budgets increase season after season.
Because of this practice, retailers buy way more than they can sell. So, they generate overstock. This overstock, in turn, leads to a higher retail price. That is because most merchandise is sold during end-of-season sales, and higher prices during the season help partially to cover this loss.
Due to this overstock, retailers use frequent promotions, markdowns and sales in order to encourage custmoers to buy more.

It’s a vicious cycle where everything is connected. Production and consumption go hand in hand. So, we cannot fix one if we do not fix the other.

Stop the sales! How retailers can eradicate overconsumption:

  • reduced quantity of clothing and accessories ordered per season in store
  • avoiding overstock would allow equitable prices throughout the season
  • stop Black Fridays, promotions and sales
  • teach clients to buy less, much less, but only quality products. Clothing and accessories made to last over time. Also, teach them the value of their purchase.

Sales aren’t a sustainable strategy. The more you buy discounted items, the more brands flood the market with pointless products. And where are we heading with this behaviour?

What consumers can do:


Don’t be part of the system that has generated the climate crisis. Try to change it instead.
Buy less, much less during the season. Take only quality garments you can match with the clothes you already have and that you can reuse.
Don’t buy trendy items, but choose a timeless aesthetic.
Quality, not quantity. And remember: good design doesn’t have an expiry date.

If you want to share your views or know more, comment here below or WhatsApp!

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Paris Haute Couture FW23-24

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Riots and Fashion in Paris


Paris Haute Couture FW23-24 risked cancellation due to five days of riots across France, which spread after the police killed a young boy. Though Celine cancelled its defile, the fashion shows took place.

We have seen so much vulgarity lately that runways like Chanel, Dior, and Armani, at least, gave a sense of elegance. That is on a positive note.

“In my opinion, today there are few maisons that really do haute couture. I’m starting to no longer recognise myself in this Paris. I have always placed myself in a more glamorous Paris, and now I no longer find myself there. I wonder if it’s not time for a change.” – said Giorgio Armani

However, it seems clear, once again, that megabrands aren’t willing to take any effective action to fight the climate emergency, apart from lots of talks about sustainable fashion. Which is pointless since nothing ever changes.

Paris Haute Couture FW23-24 vs sustainability


On the one hand, some brands had the plus of showing elegance, which stands out in an ocean of horrible and gross clothing. On the other hand, they sent on the runway countless numbers of new outfits. Precisely on the latter, we need to take into account two main points:
First, very few lucky ones can afford these couture clothes. Maybe they would have enough choices even with smaller collections. Even because couture is tailor-made, so it allows customising every single item.
Second, these clothes will be worn by celebrities who receive very generous compensation for wearing them. A marketing operation that isn’t free. Meaning it is not free for the fashion maison but, in the end, for the final customers, too. In fact, consumers who purchase from those brands will bear the price. Indeed the cost of celebrities gets spread on the company costs in general and on any product category.

Therefore, we wonder: what is the point of the overproduction behind these couture shows? Who is it for? Is it to allure consumers while ignoring a climate emergency, but then, taking part in sustainability round tables? Please stop it!
Smaller couture collections would work anyway. By having, at the same time, a lower impact and less waste of materials and resources.

Further news: Saudi Arabia is a newcomer to Paris Haute Couture FW23-24. Indeed, they are investing billions to become the new favourites in the high-end fashion segment. Money that comes from oil, which, we expect, brands will invest in sustainable fashion!

In short, couture, by definition, is sustainable. But mega brands are doing their best to make it unsustainable.

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UN Against Overconsumption

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Fashion marketers as the key to shape a new narrative


The UN states that fashion must to stop promoting overconsumption. Indeed, this aligns perfectly with our approach, since we focused more on this evolved path, about four years ago. However, curating a selection of timeless pieces to wear for a lifetime has always been central to our viewpoint.

Specifically, the UN Environment Programme and UN climate change have just released new recommendations for those who work in fashion marketing and communication.

“We are draining humanity’s lifeblood through vampiric overconsumption and unsustainable use, and evaporating it through global heating,” said U.N. Secretary-General Antonio Guterres. (source)

UN against overconsumption: a systemic issue


According to the UN, mass consumption is a systemic issue. So, they identify marketing as the key to fostering cultural change. That is how: leading consumers to change consumption rates, increasing consumer knowledge and shifting consumer behaviours. The idea is to tackle misinformation and greenwashing through science-based communication and transparency.

Although we agree with the idea of fighting overconsumption and overproduction, we are afraid that many of the words suggested in the playbook are buzzwords hiding greenwashing.
Marketing is an ensemble of activities finalised to sell products or services. So far, fashion marketing has contributed to creating confusion through deliberate operations. It isn’t likely that corporations are ready to leave behind their growth pattern. Ethics over money sounds weird from a capitalistic view.

Fashion industry: overproduction & overconsumption


Overproduction and overconsumption are two faces of the same coin, capitalism. In other words, a vicious and exploitative economic system which triggers toxic behaviours.

Overproduction leads to overconsumption: this point was clear to us. So, as a fashion retailer, about four years ago, we thought it made sense to reduce the quantity of clothing we ordered each season dramatically. That allowed us to avoid overstock and frequent markdowns while promoting a reduction of consumption based on fewer products but good quality. And so, a timeless selection of non-trend-based garments with great design value. Also, getting familiar with the concept of degrowth as an effective strategy to drive change, we trust our choice was valuable.

However, it’s not enough, and we need to do more. But it’s complicated to work since most fashion industry players still promote growth, perhaps hiding it behind traceability of QR Codes. Now they call it green growth. Which, as clearly explained in Kevin Anderson’s video, is meaningless. It leads nowhere.

Furthermore, it’s hard to find solutions when consumers shop from retailers who still work on an overproduction basis. How can these retailers stop promoting overconsumption with shops full to the brim of clothes?

Most importantly, does the UN leave the fight against overconsumption to the good heart of marketers? Of course, fashion marketing is part of the problem. And an ethical approach could work. But expecting redemption without regulations and strict controls in a rotten system seems a bit naive.

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Unisex or Genderless

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How gendered labels influence people’s perception


We can say that a garment is unisex or genderless, but it seems like people cannot really understand the point. Which is a matter of freedom and style. Either they fear something, like they are afraid of judgemental comments. Or maybe they are waiting for validation or approval in order to wear a piece of clothing.

The power of gendered labels


But why gendered labels have this power over people? Can labels define people’s life? So it seems. In fact, independent thought and auto-determination work for a few. Most people need pre-packed boxes to identify and fit in. Therefore, labels satisfy that need of belonging, having the same effect as a cloak you wear to feel protected. Labels, in general, and specifically gendered labels, make people feel safe.

However, this strict separation seems to be less present among young people. Having a different perception of style, they feel more open to playing with clothing.

Unisex or genderless


Unisex or genderless, men’s or women’s – find your own definition if you need it. Find the label you feel comfortable with if you really have to. But be advised that no one is going to ask from what category you picked the garment you are wearing. Perhaps no one cares!

Fashion style #formodernhumans


The point is not the category and not even the size. For instance, take a shirt or a sweater and wear it on. Do you like it? And do you like the fit, how it falls on your body? Also, do you feel comfortable in it? Enough! No one needs any further explanation. And, if anyone asks, you are free to respond as you like.

From whatever category we pick out the clothes to assemble our selections, we refer to most pieces as unisex or genderless. We don’t see categories as a limit, we just take what we like. Because style is not a matter of fitting into a gendered category. It’s only about how clothes look on you. And how you want to wear them.

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Pharre-Well Fashion Designers!

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Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Pharrell Williams debuts for Louis Vuitton


Fashion crowds, say Pharre-Well to fashion designers, and welcome to marketing!
During the Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Pharrell Williams presented his first release for Louis Vuitton. A big marketing show after which every fashion designer can quit their job. The fashion industry doesn’t need you anymore.

Pharre-Well & the rappers show


The runway was all about creating the hype, though some titled he brought a gentle revolution in fashion. Wait, did you see anything new? So revolutionary? Really? It seemed like an ’80s flashback.
In fact, he brought up nothing in terms of design, zero new elements. Specifically, he collected all the rap imagery, threw it in a washing machine, and so he got the mix. The show, as well as the guests’ outfits, was a celebration of black culture and hip-hop, which is now the hook to attract masses of kids who want to look like their favourite idols from the star system. Indeed, that’s what the runway was. A show, a big parade of stars. Not fashion, nor an example of good design. And not even a gentle revolution, please!

Fashion & (unconsistent) representation


Although it is perfectly understandable that centuries of white dominance in every field made many people feel unrepresented, it is unclear why historic fashion maisons believe they should shift to a universe that does not belong to them.
Clearly, one thing is the history, image, and tradition of a maison; another thing is what people, meaning the end customers, want to do with the clothes or accessories they purchase. In other words, the style they create by mixing them.

Fashion marketing vs heritage


But does it make sense to take down Vuitton’s heritage? And is expanding the business a good reason to demolish brands’ heritage? How can loyal clients trust them? Sadly, LVMH’s strategy recalls what Alessandro Michele did with Gucci. When the market got oversaturated with pointless stuff, they realised maybe it was a mistake. Afterwards, brands can attempt to reverse this strategy, but they lose credibility. Besides, it says a lot about what the fashion industry wants: growth! Which now, they like to call green growth. That is what corporations hide behind the facade, preserving their overproduction pattern.

Pharre-Well fashion designers!


However, the point is that being a fashion designer nowadays is really frustrating. In fact, after this LVMH move, we can celebrate the end of the fashion designer. A professional figure that required specific skills and a creative vein now only takes big popularity.

So, Pharre-Well fashion designers out there! Adieu!

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