fashion industry

Where Is Fashion Heading?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

A lack of vision, provocations, and big logos


To understand where fashion is heading, we should ask if the industry can change and evolve from its current state of confusion.

Some say fashion is back. Perhaps, those who say that refer to the possibility of showing new collections physically. Or, to the opportunity of wearing more elaborate outfits for special occasions and parties, which eventually restarted after covid.

Between provocations and big logos


But, among provocations and logoed items, finding new concepts is very difficult. Indeed, the range spans from Balenciaga’s garbage bag to logos exposed everywhere. In other words, mass products–that’s all. And if you want valuable garments because you don’t recognise yourself in that imagery, you have to dig a lot to find rarities.

Since fashion is an industry like any other, it tends to favour big companies, meaning those who can invest money are the ones who trend.

where is fashion heading


Keeping an eye on international designers searching for niche garments, we do not see any real change. Brands struggle to adapt to the new post-pandemic reality, yet no new proposals are being released. Neither do they consider that if reality has changed, what they have done so far will not work anymore?

Fashion industry vs change


Nevertheless, the industry players insist on the old patterns. So, they all follow the same old rules, distribution scheme and dates–and the same production models. Also, the same discount policies! In short, whatever caused the fashion system’s implosion long before the pandemic.

A lack of vision is palpable, paired with the need to fit into a system even if that system doesn’t work. As a result, nothing new can emerge—neither in design, manufacturing nor sales strategies.

A lot of talks about sustainability, which you can translate into greenwashing. In the end, change stops at the conversations. Conversations about change, of course!

Change means dismantling, restarting, and experimenting. It takes courage and a lot of creativity. Most importantly, there’s no guarantee of success. So, where fashion is heading?

Where Is Fashion Heading? Read More »

Enslaving Workers: Has Anything Changed?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Examining the reality of modern exploitation and its impact on labour


It seems clear that our economic system is based on enslaving workers. That’s how it thrives—by keeping labor cheap and maximizing profit at the expense of human dignity. While the system flourishes, workers are left behind, their rights undermined, and their well-being compromised. This cycle perpetuates inequality and exploitation, making true progress seem elusive.

Here we quote an excerpt of Li Edelkoort’s talk from the Voices stage–via Business of Fashion. Edelkoort is one of the most respected trend forecasters. This talk is from 2015, definitely not something new.  So, why it’s worth sharing again? Because nothing has changed over time!

Li Edelkoort on enslaving workers and cheap deals


Low prices are enslaving workers and destroying cultural value. This is what Li Edelkoort said:

“The manufacturing of clothes has gone through a rapid and sordid restructuring process, which has seen production leave the western world to profit from and exploit low-income countries,” said Edelkoort. “How can a product that needs to be sown, grown, harvested, combed, spun, knitted, cut and stitched, finished, printed, labelled, packaged and transported cost a couple of Euros?” she asked, comparing fashion’s supply chain to slavery.

“On the hunt for cheaper deals, volume companies, but also some luxury brands, have trusted the making of their wages to underpaid workers living in dire conditions,” she continued. “What’s more, these prices imply the clothes are to be thrown away, discarded like a condom before being loved and savoured, teaching young consumers that fashion has no value. We should make legislation to have minimum prices.”

Has anything changed so far? 


Now, the question is: Has anything really changed? The answer is no. That’s precisely why it’s important to revisit this issue.

No one planned to find solutions. Brands and governments will never do it! A spontaneous act of understanding is not part of their plans. But the pandemic has contributed to exacerbating the situation. Many people lost their job, and the working conditions are even worse now.

Seven years after Edelkoort’s assertion, we are still just talking. And talking about change when nothing ever changes is frustrating. We value words, but without action, real change will never happen.

So we signed the “Good clothes fair pay” petition, which demands a living wage for the people who make our clothes. They need 1 million EU citizen signatures. 

Let’s help them!

Enslaving Workers: Has Anything Changed? Read More »

Haute Couture, The Diversity and Inclusion Debate

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Is Haute Couture evolving to embrace all voices?


Between tradition and modernity, the latest haute couture shows have sparked a debate on diversity and inclusion.

Haute couture shows were back with physical events, and the chit-chat was all about stars and starlets attending this or that one. Well, not just being present, but also walking down the catwalk.

Therefore, the lens pointed to celebrities and not to design or style. Perhaps it is a successful strategy in terms of sales but has no significance for us. Instead of making the show more appealing, it makes us lose interest. Though it demonstrates that you can be rich and famous, it doesn’t mean you have style.

Haute couture and modernity


According to Business of Fashion, diversity and inclusion were missed in Paris. Also, “couture codes are out of sync with the times.” “Big hats, corsets, and taffeta represent a snap back to the old days” – so they say. “The only house that featured progress was Balenciaga.”

Finding Balenciaga’s vision both unsettling and nonsensical, we choose to leave modernism to the authority of its so-called experts. While the world is already distressing enough, this very reality makes it all the more meaningful to work toward something more positive.

Haute couture: art made by skilled hands

Haute couture is about beauty, top quality and perfection in execution–art made by skilled hands. Indeed the show that mastered this concept at its best was Valentino on the steps of Piazza di Spagna in Rome. “The beginning” – back to where everything started for the brand. With his stunning designs and marvellous silhouettes, Pierpaolo Piccioli’s show was an ode to beauty, colours and mastery. Furthermore, his focus on diversity and inclusion is a political message: people coming together for a better future.

We adored the maxi gowns with flat shoes or kitten heels. However, experimenting with the future while acknowledging the past is where a truly contemporary vision resides.

Haute couture, diversity and inclusion


Of course, diversity and inclusion are valuable elements, but haute couture can not be inclusive. Though we may sound boring in repeating this concept, haute couture will not be less elitist because they include plus sizes or different races in the show.

Haute couture is elitist by definition. The price makes it not accessible.

The truth is that you buy haute couture only if you can afford it, if you have a lot of money. Really a lot. Not because you feel represented.

Haute Couture, The Diversity and Inclusion Debate Read More »

The Truth About Sustainability

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Green terms: no rules, just fluff!


Labelling products as sustainable is mainly a marketing trick, so let’s uncover the truth about sustainability. Although people believe that products marketed as sustainable are effectively so, the reality is much different. And when renowned experts in the field point it out clearly, we really appreciate it.

The Portas Pov is one of our favourite newsletters. The last one released was about sustainability and how tricky the topic is.
We quote it:

“But the reality is that, right here and now, there are no rules: no governance defining all those fluffy green terms. No legislation keeping businesses in check. So, all these words and phrases that the fashion world is co-opting with such success – sustainable, natural, “made from ocean plastics” – are, in large part, meaningless.”

The truth: sustainability or greenwashing?


So is it sustainability or greenwashing? A transparent message or a trick to sell more?

Indeed, there is no interruption with our previous post about a very timely and provocative show: “The end of the world.”

In fact, the story continues right on the same line where two main factors strive: first, the lack of responsibility. Whatever we do, we do not hold ourselves accountable. Like we could go on wasting, polluting, discarding, and then maybe move to another planet. Or, we just do not care about leaving an open-air landfill to our children. Enjoy life and leave them the troubles!
Second, our industrial society or an economic system known as capitalism. This, in other words, means constant growth based on unstoppable productions and rabid comption habits.

One factor is ingrained into the other: an eternal lack of responsibility coexists with a capitalistic society. And one supports the other.

Whatever the political side, governments will hardly have the capability to do something because those who move the pawns are the ones who own the money. They stay behind but will never change because they have no interest in doing it.

How to escape meaningless claims


Labelling products as sustainable will not change things. Indeed, these are just meaningless claims. If we want to be 100% sustainable, the truth is we should not produce a single new thing! Which is impossible.

Therefore, the best possibility is to change ourselves, our behaviour, our perspectives, and our lifestyle. Sticking to our values and our accountability is where our power resides.

Don’t buy into everything!

The Truth About Sustainability Read More »

Tom Ford & The Change

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Analysing the fashion business in a post-pandemic world


Even if it is not easy to plan the best strategy, the need to change is in the air. Strong and palpable. Brands pretend to care but avoid the matter. However, since the pandemic hit, nothing has changed. Only a few involved in the discussion are truly concerned.

Now, the news is that Tom Ford will step down as chairman of the CDFA on May 31st.

We quote him:

“When I began my role as chairman in June of 2019, my goal was to help the American fashion industry become more globally recognised for its talent and importance. I could not have imagined the extraordinary circumstances that both the industry and the world would have to navigate — that a pandemic would shut the world down and change the course of our lives and of our businesses forever.”

“The pandemic challenged all of us to think about our businesses in new ways—from the design process and production, to how we reach and speak to our customers.”

Tom Ford

The need to change


In other words, Tom Ford reflects on his role as chairman, aiming to elevate American fashion globally. However, the unforeseen pandemic disrupted the industry, forcing a fundamental shift in how businesses operate, from design and production to customer engagement.

Since the beginning of our blog, we have talked profusely about change and shifting behaviours in our lifestyle. Therefore, finding new business models. And we highlighted how the pandemic was the catalyst which opened our eyes and led us to a new perspective. So, we find it interesting to listen to Tom Ford and recall his evolution. From the moment he revived Gucci with his minimal, bold, and ultra sexy style saving the brand from bankruptcy in the 90s. To how he revamped Yves Saint Laurent and the launch of his namesake brand in 2005.

Many years have passed, and now things are different, so what was right in the 90s does not work anymore.

The need to change is evident. And finding new ways to pursue the fashion business is something we cannot ignore anymore.

Tom Ford & The Change Read More »