fashion education

The Fashion Debate

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Old systems, false progress, and mixed messages


The fashion debate that follows the shows navigates oscillates between clinging to the same old system and pretending to embrace new ways. The interviews recently released seemed to send nonsensical messages. Indeed, it’s easy to notice a glaring lack of consistency. Words fail to align with actions, creating a disconnect that reverberates like a short-circuit in the industry.

However, if we want to change for the better, understanding what’s going on in the fashion field is fundamental. So, we have to analyse designers’ messages and perhaps, read between the lines.

The debate highlights


On the one hand, the runways were all about merchandising. With the fashion shows, designers promoted a compelling ‘shop now’ message – more than ever. Proposals perfectly aligned to the pre-pandemic era, with no interruption regarding the lexicon.

On the other side, they are releasing interviews about sustainability. Some send ethical messages, eco-friendly references. While some others are talking about couture as a decisive strategy.

And so? What is the sense in that?

To be clear, it’s one way or the other—otherwise, the fashion debate is pointless!
Designers have to choose on what side they are on. A brand cannot produce tons of goods and then feel better because they select some sustainable materials. Or because they also have a couture line that, maybe one day, will save the world. In case the world shifts its direction for real. Yet in the meantime, they push for over-consumption.

The choice is between overproduction or couture, mass-market versus lesser productions. It’s one or the other.
Focus on pure merchandising or conscious proposals, one or the other.
Empty marketing claims to show to the world how ethical or sustainable they suddenly became versus providing value and beautiful collections.
Again, between fostering the status quo or having the courage to start something new. It is one or the other.

They can’t have it both ways.
The two ingredients don’t fit on the same plate.

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Paris Fashion Week – En Plein Air!

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Key takeaways from the Parisian fashion shows


A couple of messages seem clear from Paris Fashion Week. Apart from the most evident fact that nothing truly has changed. The idea of renovating a system, so discussed during the pandemic, changing its outdated foundations, providing new guiding principles and deeper values, has failed miserably. That’s what fashion ruled by finance does. Forget lesser productions with better quality – this is not for corporations.

Image of Paris during fashion week
Paris

So, what are the takeaways from Paris fashion shows? 

Paris Fashion Week: SS22 trends


Nature’s calling
Sea, trees, woods. This message seemed quite strong. Indeed, many designers have set up their fashion shows immersed in nature. As to celebrate something we all missed for over a year or more. Or a desire to reconnect with our so mistreated vital element.

Clothes have no gender
We saw male models walking the runway in skirts or dresses and females in man’s suits – interchangeable genderless outfits. Not that it’s something new. In fact, Gaultier already did it about 40 years ago. But perhaps, the time is ripe now for a wider audience. 

At this point, garments have lost their traditional gender connotation. An aesthetic that, from a historical viewpoint, has been developed as a reflection of patriarchy. We understand this is a big topic. Indeed, it requires a deeper analysis, a full exploration. So we will dedicate a whole post later on. However, coming from a Gaultier influence, we always picked out men’s pieces for women or vice versa. If a garment looks good, no matter if it’s men’s or women’s. From now on, we hope for a more open and free attitude towards how clothing is perceived.

Garments are not stand-alone pieces. They become alive once we wear them. Without our intervention, clothes are empty. It’s us and our personality that completes them. 

The way we represent clothes, the way we portray them is called style. 
It’s an individual posture, the reflection of who we are. 

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Spring/Summer 22

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Selection in the digital era: pros and cons


In September and October, designers unveil their new collections for the following season. Right now, we are now curating our Spring/Summer 22 selection.

One of the most striking side effects of the pandemic is the accelerated shift toward the digital world. When it comes to brand research, this transition can yield positive outcomes.

Some brands opted for a mixed formula, physical and digital, while many others decided to present their new collections only through digital platforms. So, like it or not, that’s the offer. Obviously, fashion companies suffered significant financial losses due to the pandemic. Digital strategies have become key to recovery. Additionally, they realized how few people were actually needed to maintain an international workflow. (This loss of jobs is its own problem).

Selection through social media


We are not satisfied with the trend of discovering new brands via Instagram only. First, the communication of many brands is oriented to push the image of a woman we do not want to endorse: plastic face, doughnut lips, tons of make-up. Furthermore, it’s easy to cover up poor quality clothing in an Instagram pic.

Scrolling down, you may see so many infinite offers of clothing that seem like beautiful quality. At first sight, at least. Yet after a deeper analysis, you realize it was just a nice pic. Fast fashion brands know this trick very well.

Selection for Spring/Summer 22


However, a satisfying implication of digital fashion is that material is more accessible compared to the past. In fact, we are receiving many look books and line sheets. So that it’s easier to have an idea of what’s going on in terms of style.
Through accurate presentations and line sheets, you have the chance of knowing more about materials and fitting.

If it is true that nothing will ever change the experience of touching the fabrics, now we have the opportunity to curate a selection without travelling the world.

Though this digital integration is remarkable, finding the right balance remains essential.

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The (Ignorant) Logo

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What we Witness today in the world of branding and fashion


What we witness today is the ignorant logo. You may think that a logo has something to do with style. We do not totally agree.

A recognizable logo, displayed not on the inside or reverse but visibly shown on the outer surfaces of clothing, handbags, shoes, or small leather goods, is how fashion maisons can sustain their astronomical costs.

To this end, beauty products further amplify this. In fact, frequently people associate a designer’s name with their perfume and rather than their original creations.

The return of the logo


But why has the exposed logo made such a comeback to fashion?

First, logos are easily recognised. Furthermore, people buy logoed items because they identify with them. In fact, these products offer a status symbol more than an element of style.
Even if that status is fake – and rude when too much logoed – people like to dream.

The fashion industry was in crisis. Undoubtedly, logo-emblazoned pieces are the easiest way to sell more. Indeed, they are simpler to market.

Also, fashion in the era of social media has changed a lot. Specifically, Instagram played a huge role in this. In order to be visible, products must be more “instagrammable.” In fact, a logo provides instant visual recognition.

Moreover, during the social media era, the role of creative directors has overtaken that of designers. These figures don’t create their work by elaborating on their design skills. But they put into the mixer whatever they find.

This playground has encouraged the proliferation and growth of a shallow environment, which gave life to a sterile visual-centred culture. And, as a result, we see an ignorant fashion culture emerging. The fashion of the ignorant logo.

True style doesn’t rely on logos. It is the expression of an innate gift. Of course, in case you do not possess it, you can train and improve.
But one thing is certain: if you are self-confident and elegant, you don’t need to impress by falunting a logo!

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See The Difference

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Valuing the sensitivity to go beyond


Being able to see the difference means speaking the same language. A language that goes beyond the surfaces, one that perceives the subtle nuances and understands the importance of every detail. It’s a deeper sensitivity—an awareness that values what others might overlook.

Simplicity strips away the unnecessary. Simplicity goes to the essential. And the essential reveals the true quality.
When design is lacking, simplicity is reflected poorly. It loses its power, leaving only a hollow reflection.

For instance, take a basic top, with an essential and clean shape.
Can you see the difference with a garment that apparently looks similar?
Touch it. Can you feel the material?
Wear both. Do you get a sense of the fit? How they flow on your body?
Can you feel the quality?

Good design makes that basic top a piece of perfection, turning simplicity into an art form.

Those who are aligned and share our values don’t need many explanations. Indeed, they instantly understand the message–we speak the same language. It’s all about trust. In fact, we select with great care only what truly makes sense.

Those who are curious may need some time to fully understand. But at least, they search for more information. And in that moment of exploration, a door to deeper communication opens.

Those who don’t see any difference between one garment or another don’t have the sensitvity to go further. As a result, they do not align with our vision of the world. The language isn’t the same, and without that, there is no connection.

But there’s no need to connect with everyone, nor to be liked by everyone.

A small, aligned audience is enough.

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