Gendered fashion weeks, genderless fashion & sustainability

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Do we still need to separate men’s and women’s fashion weeks?

In order to make sense, genderless fashion and gendered fashion weeks should find a thoughtful convergence. And not only from a style perspective but for the compelling necessity of a more sustainable industry.

During fashion weeks, which last about one week for each category, womenswear and menswear, designers present their new collections. Now there are two elements:
First, the fashion industry needs a more sustainable approach
Second, many designers lately proposed clothes less defined by gender.
The intersection of these two points can help the fashion industry change for the better.

Genderless fashion: what does it mean?

Contemporary fashion is more gender-fluid, and the separation between men’s and women’s clothing seems less felt. Apparently, people are free to select clothes from the category they prefer. Indeed, genderless fashion doesn’t mean renouncing femininity or masculinity but having the freedom to pick the garments suitable for yourself.

Genderless has become one of the most represented concepts in fashion designs. So why does the fashion industry keep dividing the schedule into women’s and men’s fashion shows? It seems contradictory in terms of style proposal and sustainability, too.

Fundamentally, we are free to choose. Designers can create the image they like following their creativity and vision of style. At the same time, everyone can refer to femininity and masculinity to express their personal tastes.

Gendered fashion weeks & sustainability

But it is not just a matter of style and freedom of expression. In the face of the environmental crisis, sustainability must be a priority in the fashion industry. In fact, weaving together men’s and women’s on the same runway would not only optimise costs for the brands but would reduce the impact of fashion shows on the environment.

And so, do we still need gendered fashion weeks? Presenting one calendar only seems to be a more sustainable solution for the future of fashion.

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Good Neighbors Shirts: new in from Japan!

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A genderless shirt collection #formodernhumans

To all beautiful design lovers, the Japanese brand Good Neighbors Shirts is here in Milano!

We are particularly fond of Japanese designers because we appreciate their obsessive attention to detail. Above all, their particular take on fashion depicts an innovative but never aggressive image. There’s a sense of sophisticated coolness in their culture and vision of style. Yes, we know Japanese fashion has passionate fans in the Western world. So we’re happy to share information with you.

Good Neighbors Shirts: brand background

After graduating from Tama Art University Textile Design Department, Akira Aoki has collaborated with various brands. In 2009 he opened his design office, Four Graphic, where he works for global brands and as an artist. In 2018, he started the Good Neighbors Shirt brand being a designer who loves shirts throughout the year.

Good Neighbors Shirts: genderless shirts new in from Japan
Good Neighbors Shirts

Indeed, the collection offers the concept of the “7 DAYS SHIRT“, pieces you can wear comfortably every day like a good partner. Music and art as a source of inspiration are palpable. Also, the approach to colour and style is contemporary and edgy. The manufacturing process does not use fossil fuels as much as possible. Specifically, the hands of skilful craftsmen based in Tokyo make the production.

Now in Milano!

Finally, today we received a lovely box all decorated with cats! Best box ever! And we immediately checked all the garments: the design, details, and quality are excellent.

These well-tailored shirts with a genderless image are modern and stylish. All the items have a contrast band along the back, which is detachable, and you can use it as a belt or as you like. Also, all the shirts have a pocket, on the right side, for your phone or wallet.

Good Neighbors Shirts are modern uniforms for a minimal lifestyle. Contact us (by email or WhatsApp) to know more!
We’d love to help!

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What is sustainability?

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Vito Mancuso: ethics, nature and accountability

What is sustainability? Think about an all-embracing definition, a few words we can extend to any field. To our whole life, indeed. In our search for a more sustainable lifestyle, Prof. Vito Mancuso offered some food for thought.

In a tv show called “Quante storie”, a must-see programme which is all about books, Prof. Vito Mancuso, a theologist and philosopher, introduced his latest essay titled “Etica per i giorni difficili” (Ethics for difficult days).

Addressing the need for shared ethics, he gave some guidance on the importance of preserving nature. Precisely, he said: “Custodire la natura è un’ assunzione di responsabilità.”

Literally:

“Preserving nature is an assumption of responsibility.”

Vito Mancuso

We believe we can extend this definition into the discussion on sustainable matters. Likewise, we can affirm: “Sustainability is an assumption of responsibility.”

And taking responsibility means, in other words, holding ourselves accountable.

But holding ourselves accountable goes beyond economics, marketing, or personal power. In fact, it’s about ethics.
And so, from a marketing perspective, can we agree to pair the word sustainable with big corporations? From the perspective of profit, can we allow well-known brands to sponsor sustainable events? Or set up sustainable fashion shows with the same rule as non-sustainable ones?

On an ethical level, we cannot.

From an ethical perspective, taking money from big corporations won’t lead to real change.
But holding ourselves accountable doesn’t mean being perfect in our effort to make a change. It means taking seriously the choice we made and being consistent with it. Fundamentally, it means changing the way we operate, and being very careful who we partner with.

Mainstream sustainability vs ethics

So, what is the mainstream sustainability movement proposing? Green capitalism is the enlightened way. Specifically, they tell us to shift towards an eco-green-sustainable model in order to keep up consuming as much as we did so far.

Of course, it won’t work. Either they are missing the point, or ethics isn’t their concern. And neither is sustainability.

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The land of waste

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How the fashion industry dumps the problem into Africa

A land of waste: the unbelievable amount of discarded clothing dumped in Africa regularly. About three million pieces of clothing every year. Endless layers of textiles form mountains high of fashion waste polluting the land and waters. A terrifying sight which shows the destruction the western world perpetrates towards nature.

Fast-fashion waste recycling?

People think the clothes discarded into the recycling container (the yellow one here in Italy) are reused. Usually, charities are in charge of these garments. But fast fashion items have poor quality. So, in the end, large quantities can’t be resold and end up in a massive toxic blob in Africa.

Y2K: the overproduction era

Since 2000 global clothing production has doubled, but the quality is lower and lower. As we already addressed, brands accelerated the overproduction model. At the same time, they promoted overconsumption, kicking off the toxic cycle.
Brands overproduce up to 40% every season.

Waste shipped to Africa: the western solution!

In west Africa, everyday cargos arrive full of dirty clothes, and most get there in unwearable condition. In Ghana, a dumping ground for textiles, they call them the “dead white man’s clothes.” Moreover, Western garments are so cheap that local manufacturers can’t compete (source ABC.net.au).

The city of Accra has to find a place to dispose of 160 tons of textile waste every day! Liz Ricketts, a circular economy advocate, has spent about ten years documenting what happens in Ghana.
During the monsoon season, the heavy rains drag the textiles into the sea. Then they return to the shore buried in the sand.

In Accra, there’s no room left to throw away clothing.

We recommend to watch this video by ABC News:

Video by ABC News

If waste is the byproduct of a fashion industry based on an overproduction pattern, consumers play an active part, too. Indeed, they contribute to this environmental disaster with their consumption habits. Perhaps years ago, information was lacking, but now it’s everywhere! Everyone can understand the downside of cheap clothing.

There are people underpaid to make cheap clothes and, at the end of the cycle, people who make 4 dollars per day to collect fashion waste. Slaves indeed!

The western world’s solution was to ship the problem to Africa! But that has generated a land of waste, which we leave to the coming generations.

Fashion brands are responsible, but so we are if we don’t change consumption habits.

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The fashion regeneration

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A circular vision from the Paris Haute Couture Week

Although the status quo is hard to fight, some designers made a strong visual impact showing fashion regeneration at the Paris Haute Couture.

Regeneration: a new narrative in the fashion industry

While showing beautiful clothes, some brave young designers proposed thrilling setups to make people think. Specifically, they delivered a new narrative raising awareness of fashion overproduction and waste. Therefore, they promoted a more sustainable lifestyle based on circularity.

Since finance owns top brands, the fashion business is an uneven fight. Indeed, small or independent designers put a lot of effort into competing with big luxury conglomerates that have no interest in changing.

But, some spectacular shows made a difference at the Paris Haute Couture week.

One-of-a-kind: a positive change

Yuima Nakazato is a talented designer who presented impressive work!
The collection named “INHERIT” wants to inspire a positive change. Born from upcycling, it is a mix of captivating design, enveloping lines and evocative colours. So, he showed the beauty of fashion innovation and the downside of fashion pollution. Chills and creativity.
Inspired by a trip to Kenya, the introduction video showed an Africa devastated by fashion waste.

“There are many places in Nairobi that have been contaminated with textiles. We need to change that.”

Yuima Nakazato SS23 Couture

Circular couture

Marine Serre: proposed a fashion regenerated through a circular design. To explain, we quote her concept for her Couture show:

“The RISING SHELTER show featured a fully circular set design. The tower weighs 1.3 tons of vintage clothes inside three 8m high towers full of used denim, silk scarves and t-shirts that will be regenerated for the collection’s production.”

Marine Serre SS23 Couture

Perhaps highlighting the reality with the terrifying imposing towers full of fashion waste will help understand the urgency no one wants to see.

However, these young designers deserve credit for addressing fashion waste and climate change, leading fashion regeneration with creativity and skilful design. And so, a positive change for the future.

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