sustainability

Wheelchair? Please, don’t come!

Fashion, disability and non-inclusion

Inclusion and diversity are topics to which we are particularly sensitive. However, we had to overcome a certain discomfort to share this story with you. But if we want to make a change, we have to open up on this matter.

We acknowledged that Camera Nazionale Della Moda Italiana holds an event, at its second edition, named: “Including Diversity”.

Specifically, on Sept 20th – today – Camera Moda will discuss diversity and inclusion to promote both matters within the Italian fashion system. If you happen to read about it, you may think that the intent is noble and words strong. Everything looks so on point.

Yes, agreed. If only words correspond to facts. 

As we wrote in one of our recent posts, inclusion and diversity are much-discussed topics in the fashion field. We call them “the fashion bullshit” – because the smell of marketing is so strong. 

Inclusion and diversity: facts vs words 

After I was diagnosed with a degenerative disease, I can report a much different reality about fashion and inclusion based on my personal experience. Indeed, being a wheelchair user, I can say that not only showrooms lack accessibility but fashion events too. So, you have to entrust yourself to the empathy of employees working there. And you cannot take that empathy for granted!

In September 2019 – Covid hit the previous season – I was consulting for a brand showing in one of the exhibitions connected to Camera Moda. The designer had an invitation for an event dedicated to fashion buyers and emerging designers. Consequently, he invited me. 
I couldn’t go alone. I needed help with my wheelchair. And so, the designer informed the Camera Moda press office of the plus-one necessity. Something that shouldn’t require much explanation. No?

Their response was that because of the pandemic, they had limited access, so I wasn’t allowed to go with another person.
Of course, it meant I couldn’t take part in the event. 

My friends were shocked by the idea that I put myself in the position of asking permission. In the case of walking disability, plus-one is a fact, period. But I was afraid any reaction would cause problems for the brand I worked for.

Disappointed by that reply, I posted something on my Instagram. I was fuming, frustrated. Unable to reply as they deserved in that precise moment. Shortly after, a beautiful human DM’d me checking if she got my message right.

Laura Mohapi, a talented artist based in London, supported me. Also, she thought I had to address what happened and offered to write a letter to Camera Moda on my behalf. The idea of having to explain made me feel so bad, even if I knew it was right, so her offer was very welcome.

I read the letter she wrote, and it was like receiving a punch in my stomach. I pondered a lot. But finally, I decided to forward it by email.

No response in my inbox. Probably it went ignored. And so I sent a registered letter too.

This time the message got a little attention. Not that much. Indeed, I received in my inbox a forwarded email – in English. They didn’t even bother to make an effort to copy the English version they received and paste it into a new email. They paid zero attention to the form, giving the impression that what happened had no relevance for them. Or perhaps, they weren’t familiar with how to handle official emails. 

In the end, it took me almost two years to find the courage to write about it. But the sadness, frustration and disappointment when I see those “Include Diversity” events still make me feel sickened.

And so, Cri and I wonder: when they launch those events for the fashion industry, what do they really mean?

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The most wonderf… wasteful time of the year

Low impact Christmas #formodernhumans

Christmas is the most celebrated holiday, a time to spend with family and loved ones. But during modern times, it became just another occasion to overconsume. More than the atmosphere, the tradition revolves around buying and, even more, tossing out the day after.

Indeed, the waste we produce grows exponentially during the festivities. Wrappings, gifts, food – people consume and throw away everything. To demonstrate it, see the average fast-fashion Christmas sweater worn just for the occasion and then discarded right away. Those garments go directly to replenish the horrendous clothing island in the Atacama Desert in Chile.

(In case you do not remember about it, please read here)

In fact, the most wonderful time of the year corresponds to the most wasteful time of the year.

However, sooner or later, any excess becomes exhausting. And for those who choose a conscious lifestyle, the need to clean up the festivities routine is deeply felt. But, paying attention to our lifestyle and consumption habits doesn’t mean giving up the celebrations. On the contrary, a low impact Christmas is possible, pleasant and more meaningful.
And yes, we can definitely enjoy it!

What we can do:

• As a general rule: avoid single-use items.

• Christmas decorations: we never throw them away. We just mix them differently, and the atmosphere is created around us. Those who interact with us will surely remember our lovely polar bears! In case you missed them, have a peek at our Instagram.

• Wrappings: avoid too much paper for packaging and use non-plasticised wraps. Also, recycle them.

• Food: throwing away food is an insult to humanity. There are so many recipes for food leftovers.

• If you cannot afford gifts, make something by hand. But please, don’t buy fast fashion. We don’t need more garbage.
For the same cost of a fast-fashion item, consider gifting a book.

Finally, whatever we buy for Christmas, make it last. And most importantly, let’s donate what we can.

A conscious lifestyle means intentional choices. It is not about deprivation but quality, values and meaning.
May your days be merry!

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Shop small & independent

A shared vision

Shop small and independent represents thoughtful choices to reclaim a sense of value. For you, but for us too. Indeed, supporting similar activities means being aligned. And sharing a vision of the world we want to live in. We contribute to defining the world by voting with our pockets. How we spend our money or don’t spend it at all – which in many cases would be great – shapes the world. And we do it all together.

For instance, we could argue against overconsumption and then offer you the same brands which are on top thanks to that production model. Instead, we prefer to do our own research and find value outside the beaten path. In fact, consistency is a value we believe in. Therefore we search for uniqueness.

Anmi: a brand with a fascinating background

shop small and independent
Anmi collections

Thinking about jewellery, the idea of supporting Anmi totally resonated with us, with the new path we have undertaken. An Italian brand located near the magical Pompeii, the ancient Roman city in Campania, close to Naples and Vesuvius. A designer with a long history in the fashion field, between Italy and France.

Exploring the Anmi archive to assemble unique pieces of jewellery was fascinating and modern at the same time. It was like going through a process and realizing that the time was ready. Sometimes we would even stop, because it made sense for a while — but always with the intention of taking a different direction.

shop small and independent
Anmi collections

The archive is vast, and what once was considered a fashion leftover regained its value fulfilling the desire for uniqueness. In this line, the concept of asymmetry stands out. Also, the packaging is minimal on purpose.

Being mindful of your consumption doesn’t mean “buy nothing” at all. It’s more about making intentional and conscious choices.
Shop small and independent!

Please, request your Anmi jewellery piece via email or DM.

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Change: between reality and dream

The alleged change brought in by the pandemic, and much discussed in the fashion field, is mostly imanginary.
We had this conversation with Antonio Miranda, designer of the Anmi jewellery brand.

Antonio invited us to the Piccolo Teatro to see “Doppio Sogno” (Dream Story), by Arthur Schnitzler. Firstly, the show was amazing! Much better than Kubrick’s movie “Eyes wide shut.” Each character had multiple versions of oneself simultaneously, highlighting a dense psychoanalytical landscape. The mixed emotions in a deep flow of consciousness have made it intense.
Thank you, Ugo Fiore (assistant director and Antonio’s nephew). We really appreciate it!

However, before the show started, we exchanged some thoughts about fashion.

change
ANMI Collections – Made in Italy

Fashion and change

We quote Antonio Miranda:

“Those who changed because of the pandemic were already on that path before Covid19 hit. This is demonstrated by the fact that the majority of people worsened or didn’t change at all. And, look, in the fashion field, we talked a lot about change. It seemed everything had to be different the following season. Well, now the fluff is even stronger.”

According to the Anmi designer, those who changed were already sensitive to the topic. Somehow they were ready or open to it. In fact, they were on the route to make a change. Therefore, the pandemic was the last drop or an invitation.

But for the majority of people, nothing has changed. Not for the good. And fashion is stuck in the usual hot air.

Indeed, the path towards change is individual. It is a matter of awareness and perspective. But, even though a shift in attitude depends on our journey, whatever our situation may be, we can get inspired by virtuous people and activities.

A play, a book, what we buy, define the universe we want. Let’s keep the door open, search for value, support and share it. That’s how we change!

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The fashion bullshit

A list of notorious fashion marketing empty claims

The fashion industry loves to discuss important matters that we would better describe as fashion bullshit.

How does the system work?
As soon as a new concept becomes popular in the fashion field, the proclamation gets released. So the word spreads. As a result, marketing takes over the subject right away. And, once marketing steps in, you can feel the smell of it. Indeed, you will perceive a sense of fakeness that permeates the whole set of communication.

As voices outside the chorus, we’ve created a list of some of the fashion bullshit: terms that, the more people in the field put at the centre of the discussion, the more they sound weird.

The fashion bullshit list:

• New:
usually said about things done and redone. Again and again. Eye roll when you hear this word.

• Change:
a kind of mystical belief we like to talk about, but never happens.

• Luxury:
or the fake representation of it. What remains after the voluntary shift towards overproduction and mass distribution.

• Affordable luxury:
a total absurdity launched to compensate for the collapse of real luxury.

• Sustainability:
the biggest bullshit of our times. The majority of designers who wave this flag have no design imprint. Therefore, have no reason to exist.

• Diversity:
possible or allowed only in fashion shows or advertising.

• Inclusion:
possible or allowed only in fashion shows or advertising.

• Disability:
possible or allowed only in fashion advertising. But please, don’t show up during fashion event!

• Fluidity:
gender-fluidity is popular in fashion shootings. But when you go shopping, items are divided by categories. And so, the shop assistant kindly invites you to shop in the section assigned to your gender.

• Collaboration:
possible only as co-branding (sharing a profit). However, very rare among fashion professionals as a genuine exchange.

• Humbleness:
did not report.

Does anyone have anything to add to this list?

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