Yesterday we attended the opening of the “Siamo Foresta” exhibition at Triennale Milano in collaboration with Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporaine. We are forest – is the language of contemporary art focused on nature and aiming to save it from human impact.
Beyond anthropocentrism
“Siamo Foresta (we are forest) draws its inspiration from an aesthetic and political vision of the forest as an egalitarian multiverse of living peoples, human and non-human, and as such offers an allegory of a possible world beyond our anthropocentrism. The exhibition stages an unprecedented dialogue between thinkers and defenders of the forest; between indigenous artists – from New Mexico to the Paraguayan Chaco passing through the Amazon – and non-indigenous artists (Brazil, China, Colombia, France).” – source
Siamo Foresta: artists involved
“Focusing on artists from Latin America, We Are Forest presents, amongst others, the works of Jaider Esbell (Macuxi, Brazil), Cleiber Bane (Huni Kuin, Brazil), Floriberta Femin, Angelica Klassen, Esteban Klassen, Marcos Ortiz (Chaco, Paraguay), Sheroanawe Hakiihiwë, Joseca Mokahesi, and Ehuana Yaira (Yanomami, Venezuela and Brazil), Johanna Calle (Colombia), Alex Cerveny, Bruno Novelli, Santidio Pereira, Solange Pessoa, Adriana Varejao, and Luiz Zerbini (Brazil).” – source
We recommend you visit the exhibition, it’s open until October 29!
As we entered the rooms, a quote caught our attention:
“The forest is alive. It can only die if the white people persist in destroying it: if they succeed, the rivers will disappear underground, the soil will crumble, the trees will shrivel up, and the stones will crack in the heat. The dried-up earth will become empty and silent.”
David Kopenawa, The Falling Sky 2010
Siamo Foresta: nature focused contemporary art
Captured by green in every shade and two corners of the forest installation with large lush plants we could walk through. And bright colours; but also some impressive black and white, all with potent imagery and a touching sense of light. Indeed we were amazed to discover the drawings some indigenous self-taught artists made just with a ballpoint pen. A fun detail, a man saw Cri standing next to a painting in her anis slipdress by Marc Le Bihan and said: “Your colours perfectly match this painting. You should be in it! Let me take you a picture!” Indeed, we all wore colours in line with the exhibition. Perhaps when we made our Spring-Summer 23, the forest mood inspired us!
In the end, another quote made us reflect:
“It began with separating man from nature and establishing him as a sovereign kingdom; it was thus believed to erase the most irrefutable character of him, namely that he is primarily a living being. And, remaining blind to this common property, the field has been given free rein to all abuses.”
With Spring-Summer 24 selling season-opening, fashion experts are meeting sustainable brands. And so, we received invitations for panels and fashion events, aiming to facilitate the shift towards eco-conscious products. But the ultimate goal isn’t sustainability. It never is so.
Unfortunately, brands that have an idea of what sustainability is, aren’t understood by fashion buyers and showrooms. Indeed, both industry players had the same comments, which seems weird and leaves little hope for specific brands to find a market that would sustain their business in an evolved fashion panorama. But fundamentally, these comments say a lot about what sustainability represents in the fashion industry.
Fashion experts’ remarks on sustainable brands
We’ll guide you through some opinions we heard about these new brands: 1- Is this clothing collection sustainable? 2- This collection is too small. Why just a few pieces? 3- It’s expensive! Prices are too high. We want the same clothes at a much lower price.
Now the responses we would love to give, point after point and face to face, to the fashion experts: To the very first question everyone asks when approaching a booth: is it sustainable? What do you mean? Can’t you understand it from the size of the collection, style choice, quality and materials? Do you need a tag stating if a garment is eco-conscious?
The second one: your collection is too small! Guess what! Capsule collections should be the way out from decades of racks packed with new items! The way out from overproduction! Isn’t a capsule collection more sustainable? It seems showrooms and buyers still need endless items, fabrics and colour options, which is the opposite of sustainable fashion.
Then comes the third request, which makes you understand these experts have no idea what they say: it’s expensive! We want this dress, but cheaper. Well, sustainable materials are expensive! And if that designer makes a specific dress in a much cheaper material, it wouldn’t make sense.
And so, the last request takes us back to the first: is it sustainable? Why do you ask? What do you expect from sustainable brands if you ask for much cheaper materials?
Is sustainability the goal?
Dear fashion experts, buyers and showrooms, are you sure you want sustainable fashion brands? Do you know what sustainable means? It seems your ideas are confused, indeed. And perhaps those panel discussions have a different goal.
What’s the point of fluidity if brands still present gendered fashion shows?
“Man comes, and man goes” is the feeling we get analysing this men’s fashion week. First was men’s fashion shows, then designers said, man no, not anymore. It was better to present men’s and women’s in one event. And now men’s shows are yes again! So, what’s going on? Do designers have an idea of what the world needs, or are they just babbling?
Man’s fashion and style
On the one hand, the vision of men lately has become more free. They can wear clothes that weren’t appropriate a while ago. Although sometimes man’s image seems confused, certainly, it’s almost devoid of elegance. That is because fluid style is associated with an often ridiculous portrayal.
Furthermore, we wonder who brands are talking to. Young boys? In fact, the age seems lowered a lot. But can teenagers afford luxury designer clothes? Apart from a tiny audience, it doesn’t seem likely. So, again we wonder what worldview these top brands promote.
Women and gender-fluid
On the other hand, the idea of women remains quite antiquated and vulgar, even when approaching gender-fluid. But with the claim of showing a woman free from patriarchy and who imposes her own personality. Free to dress as she likes, they say. In other words, a woman’s style that reflects her liberation from man-imposed rules. Of course, we do not agree with this storytelling at all. It’s just a fake representation in order to sell the same old things.
Spring-Summer 24 men’s fashion show: gender-fluid and sustainability
Specifically, as regards men’s fashion week, we touch upon a few considerations: From a style perspective, there’s no need for gendered lines, though we believe that fluidity doesn’t mean ridiculous. But what’s the point of fluidity if brands still present gendered shows?
Most importantly, from a sustainability viewpoint, we can’t see the need for a separate fashion week for men and women. In fact, it seems like designers say everything and its opposite six months later, completely disowning words of common sense they pronounced earlier. There’s no clear and consistent line of thought. Which, in times of climate change and tangible disasters we face on a daily basis, seems absolutely crazy.
Let’s face it: 90% of sustainable fashion brands would be sustainable for real if they stopped doing their collections. Do you care about the planet? If you do, it must be clear that trillions of self-appointed “sustainable brands” that have oversaturated the market aren’t sustainable. Indeed, we came to this conclusion after years of visiting fashion exhibitions and showrooms, checking out lookbooks, and corporate and online communication.
Of course, sustainable practices must be embedded in the designing process and production chains. Most importantly, fashion degrowth must be planned to reduce the massive impact of the industry on the environment. But the point is that attention has shifted from clothing to too many words and much storytelling. And everything is about that: words and empty slogans. Why? Because these designers have nothing to say. Their design means nothing. Therefore, marketing gives these “sustainable brands” a reason to exist and an opportunity to do business.
Top brands vs sustainable brands
In the fashion universe, megabrands communication is all about sustainability. But we avoid listing all top brands’ sustainable activities we read daily because it gets embarrassing, if not unnerving. Then, we find designers and many new brands, who make a lot of noise talking about sustainable fashion, but in practice, they lose sight of their job. And what is their job? Making clothes, meaningful garments, and pieces worth buying in case people need something new.
Niche fashion #formodernhumans
But, in our fashion research, a tiny niche focused on its job has emerged. Here we can find those brands that offer intrinsic value in their design, beautiful pieces presented in a contemporary key. Also featuring refined details, quality fabrics and impeccable tailoring. Brands with a unique sense of style, a timeless aesthetic, edgy and always fashion forward, but absolutely far from mass production. Indeed, they let their design speak. And so, without too many words, but through the value of their work, they show us sustainability almost achieved in practice.
In fact, designers part of the blah-blah-blah sustainable fashion brands bubble would better serve their cause and do a favour to the planet if they didn’t do their collections.
Sustainability is ridiculous. Not because the concept per se is stupid or does not make sense. But because it is too broad, too vague, and, therefore, deceptive.
Sustainable fashion? This is greenwashing
Sometimes for ignorance or superficiality, yet in most cases, with intentionality, as those who play the sustainable game are perfectly aware of what they do. But, in the end, sustainability is just a new way to make money by showing a green facade. The industry, which goes from consultancy to fashion brand retail to NGOs, is flourishing. As a matter of fact, industry players spend time on “eco – green – conscious” labels, but it seems they are playing a shell game. The purpose is to hide and manipulate truths.
In most cases, the effort is all about running after the latest eco-friendly label. But is it enough to achieve sustainability? It is the case of Chloé, for instance. Richemont hired Gabriela Hearst for her eco credentials, and now, three years later, the designer is exiting the company. Though they say revenue increased by 60%, their design is far away from the beauty of the past.
Why sustainability is ridiculous
However, we have some doubts about the strategy Chloé has promoted so far. How can a luxury brand based on seasonal trends manage its business without damaging the planet? We wonder how fashion brands that shift to a purpose-driven business can be credible if they still run their activity on an overproduction pattern. Also, they attain the status of B-Corp. Most importantly, we wonder how B-Corp certification can combine with overproduction. That seems contradictory. In fact, in this context, sustainability is ridiculous.
Specifically, we wonder if a drastic reduction of supply by offering only beautiful design garments made with “sustainable materials” and respecting the production chain would be an effective strategy.
But, of course, we understand that manipulating reality with the effect of fueling overconsumption is the most effective way to make money. So keep up promoting a green world!
