Fashion & lifestyle

Is Sustainable Fashion Elitist? BOF Asks

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Misunderstanding sustainability or a manipulated behaviour


In a recent post, Business of Fashion raised the question: is sustainable fashion elitist? Earlier, a fashion writer, Derek Guy, tweeted his thoughts about menswear, inviting his audience to “buy less, buy better”, considering quality pieces over fast fashion. Well, we agree! But this post sparked controversy: many said sustainable fashion is elitist because most people cannot afford luxury clothes.

Surely we cannot deny that sustainable materials plus production chains that give proper wages to their workers cannot provide cheap products.

But let’s go through some points:

• cheap clothes and disposable fashion are not sustainable.
They offer an easy-to-connect narrative, but they aren’t sustainable. Not only do they damage the environment, but need an underpaid workforce to thrive.
• luxury doesn’t mean sustainable. Indeed, fast fashion and most “luxury” brands are two faces of the same coin. They both share an overproduction pattern based on people and planet exploitation.
• overdistribted sustainable brands aren’t sustainable. Brands that call themselves sustainable but are distributed everywhere, so mass-produced, aren’t sustainable.

Download “The sustainability basics” here!

Education, not just money


Mindful consumption is one of the building blocks of a modern lifestyle, and it is a matter of education, which not necessarily rich people have. The conversation on sustainability is not about inducing low incomes to stop consumption but helping them develop better habits. On the contrary, high incomes must reduce their purchases drastically because their lifestyle’s impact is much higher.

Sustainability is not just about shopping. It’s a lifestyle choice in respect of nature, and people and workers’ rights. A necessity in the face of climate change.

It is tricky to say what is sustainable and what is not. So, the fashion industry can force brands to stick to specific regulations, making things clear to consumers. But, in the end, each individual must learn and become a conscious consumer. Nothing happens on one side only.

How can we explain this complex situation?


We live in a consumer society where everything revolves around consumption. People overconsume at the expense of other human beings and the planet as if it is the only reason for living. Of course, many cannot afford expensive items. But vintage represents a sustainable and circular option. Also, you can find up-cycled clothes in every price range.

So, is sustainable fashion elitist? And why people prefer to buy fast fashion? A quote by Upton Sinclair gives a perfect insight:

“It is difficult to get a man to understand something, when his salary depends upon his not understanding it.”

Upton Sinclair

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Milano Fashion Week 2023

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Fall/Winter 23: between reality, wearability and confusion


Milano Fashion Week 2023 shows a fashion recovered from Balenciagitis! The extremely contagious phenomenon that has affected almost every designer so far, seems gone! And finally, brands looked in better shape. However, the number of outfits presented in every single fashion show underlined the blindness of the fashion system towards climate emergency.

Highlights from Milano Fashion Week 23


Gucci: a lot of everything and too much confusion in da house. This show transitions from Alessandro Michele, who destroyed maison’s heritage in favour of a clownish style, to the new designer, Sabato Sarno, whose first collection will see the light in September. Though waiting for the official handover, perhaps it made sense to show 30 archive clothing pieces mixed with accessories. All that confusion from a maison like Gucci was nonsense.

Milano Fashion Week 23


Prada: the collection focused on reality, with well-balanced silhouettes and beautiful origami decorations. Indeed, wearable clothes with a purpose, like the nurse dress, had the intent to offer uniforms for daily life. But what about BOF’s title? “A plea for compassion at Prada.” Talking about compassion for a fashion show seems a stretch. Compassion for what? By the way, we still wonder if Miuccia needs Raf Simons. She can do better than stitching a logo onto a skirt.

Dolce & Gabbana: so many deshabille looks gave the impression of an underwear show. However, when the more “habillé” outfits came out, we finally could see some of the Dolce & Gabbana original designs. Indeed, this one was much better than their latest fashion shows.

Bottega Veneta: precise tailoring cuts highlighted an image of quality and clean elegance. Beautiful textured fabrics gave a sense of unexpectedness. But maybe too many themes make you lose attention.

What do all the brands have in common?


Apart from the circus of most participants at Milano Fashion Week 2023 with zero idea of style or elegance and some indigestible starlets, still everyone showed trillions of outfits. Brands persist on that. Why? Nobody is slowing down. No one hits the brake, creating and suggesting an idea of style and lifestyle in tune with the current times.
The fashion industry (as our economic system) thrives on an overproduction pattern. Even if the world is melting down, no one cares to make a change.

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The Gingham Check Shirt

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Stylish shirts from a new Japanese fashion brand


Today we introduce The Gingham Check Shirt by Good Neighbors Shirts, a new Japanese genderless brand.

Shirts are seasonless. So you can wear this garment throughout the year by mixing it with seasonal pieces to make it suitable for a specific moment. 

Indeed, we select pieces with the intent of helping you assemble a capsule wardrobe of meaningful garments. Specifically, clothes that encapsulate the values of contemporary fashion: timeless, seasonless, and genderless.

Discover The Gingham Check Shirt

The Gingham Check Shirt
The Gingham Check Shirt by Good Neighbors Shirts

About the design
This well-tailored shirt features a mao collar and a slightly wide silhouette with a comfortable fit. One front open pocket and one slip pocket on the right side for your cell phone or wallet. A contrasting rubber band along the back adds a point of graphic design. It is detachable, and you can wear it as a belt or as you like. Also, the hem design makes it look well untucked.
Takase shell button front closure. These shell buttons are the byproduct of the food manufacturing process, which would be otherwise wasted. Therefore they are considered sustainable.

The Gingham Check Shirt
The Gingham Check Shirt – back

About the material
79% cotton, 21% polyester – fresh, comfortable and easy-care.

About the colour
Gingham check pattern in black and white. Definitely timeless!

Laundry
Wash by hand. Easy care product.

Styling tips
The image is relaxed but stylish, meaning you can adapt it to diverse occasions since it’s easy to mix and match. Wear it untucked, but it is appropriate for more formal wear. 

Designed for a minimal lifestyle, The Gingham Check Shirt is perfect for your everyday wear. 

International Shipping available!
We are based in Milano, but we ship our niche fashion selection #formodernhumans everywhere.

How to order:


Drop us an email, WhatsApp or leave a comment below for any further information. Also, you can book your private shopping experience – physical or via video call. 
We’d love to help!

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WAMI and Stella Jean’s Controversy Over Milano Fashion Week

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A lack of inclusion and diversity or a matter of money?


WAMI is the acronym for “We Are Made In Italy”, a collective of BIPOC designers. Stella Jean, an Italian designer of Haitian origin, is at the helm of this group.

Early in February, while Carlo Capasa, president of “Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana”, introduced the Fall/ Winter schedule, Stella Jean suddenly stood up and denounced the lack of inclusion.

“No promises made by the president of Camera Moda have been kept.”

“We were at the opening of the February fashion show calendar but we had to withdraw because, how do we pay for the collections if the designers don’t have the means?”

Stella Jean

Wami, Stella Jean and Camera Moda: the controversy


So, Stella Jean said she dropped out of fashion week because Camera Moda didn’t keep their promise to support BIPOC designers. Also, on the same day, she started a hunger strike. Consequently, Camera Moda’s president replied they’ve supported the BIPOC collective of designers for two years, meaning four seasons. Furthermore, Capasa added they did what they could and couldn’t become entrepreneurs.

Fashion business: a matter of representation or money?


Having a certain knowledge of the fashion field, we wonder how it can be possible to set up a fashion brand in two years. Indeed, the situation is more complex than it seems, and we can identify three main problems:
First, money is the biggest issue. If you can invest in your project, whatever your race is, you’ll find a way to show your collection. Open doors in showrooms, exhibitions or fashion shows.
Second, everything has already been done in fashion, and it’s difficult for new designers to create something new or special which would make them stand out, pushing those in the industry to search for them.
Third, “black lives matter” – inclusion – diversity – disability – sustainability – fluidity – are just buzzwords the fashion industry uses for promotion. Nothing more.

Two-year support to launch a fashion brand: is it enough?


In the complexity determined by money, creativity, and representation, Camera Moda offered WAMI a two-year plan. Is it enough to launch underrepresented brands? It seems tough. Especially now.

In fact, in an oversaturated fashion market, the truth is that there isn’t much space. There are more brands than people who would purchase them. Time for a change!

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