Fashion & lifestyle

Milano Fashion Week SS25 Celebrates Ignoring the Storm

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Exploring fashion’s refusal to acknowledge reality


Milano Fashion Week SS25 has just closed, and while the event was celebrated with high-energy words, it has done so by ignoring the storm brewing around the industry. The message seemed to be: No worries, better times will come. But, the contrast between the stakeholders’ storytelling and the fashion industry’s current struggles is hard to overlook. Despite the glamour, both the Chamber of Fashion and most brands continue to ignore the undeniable realities – financial instability, unsustainable practices, and a larger economic and planetary crisis.

This disconnect is unsettling, as the focus remains on maintaining an illusion of success while the foundation crumbles.

About Milano Fashion Week SS25


Magazines, TV news, and interviews painted an energising picture of the MFW SS25. “Many international buyers, most from Asia,” boasted Mr. Capasa. Yet behind the scenes, a different story unfolded. Some fairs experienced entire days without any attendance. It’s clear: selling something in a controlled environment means highlighting only the positives. But business as usual, amid economic, social, and planetary crises, feels deeply misguided.

We quote Cristiana Schieppati from “Chi è Chi News” as her words resonate with us:
“But let’s talk about this week, which has been a bit like my dog when I scold him, and he gives me that guilty look. Everything felt a bit subdued, with few people around (very few foreigners), lots of marketing, few newspapers handed out outside the shows, and many phrases like ‘hang in there, better times are coming, we’re doing fine despite everything.'”

This season’s runways saw more creativity, blending playful elements with good tailoring. Perhaps this was fashion’s attempt to deflect from the harsh reality. A desire to offer a bit of joy amidst an endless “permacrisis.” Archive pieces were given new life in chaotic, contemporary ways, encouraging individuality through personal style. The message seemed to be: wear clothes however you want, and bring statement pieces into everyday life with a casual twist.

And yes, we could mention some shows we found interesting. In fact, some designers did great work capturing the essence of their vision. For instance, Antonio Marras, Prada, Bottega Veneta and Moschino. But at this point, does that really matter? And what’s the sense in celebrating sustainability when the same names that dominate Fashion Week are rewarded year after year? How can the industry claim to be embracing change when it continues to spotlight the very players whose practices remain questionable?

Conclusion


Despite the brilliance of some collections, Milano Fashion Week SS25 has ultimately chosen to celebrate while ignoring the storm, showcasing the industry’s startling refusal to confront reality. Who needs to make a change if not the Italian Chamber of Fashion?

By the way, we have little reason to believe Paris Fashion Week will be any different.


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Italian Sweatshop Problem: Is it an Italian Issue Only?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Challenging the B.O.F. narrative around labour exploitation in fashion


Recently, The Business of Fashion (B.O.F.) raised a critical topic: the so-called “Italian sweatshop” problem within luxury brands. However, their statement suggested that this issue is uniquely Italian, framing it as a problem specific to the country. But is that really the case? Let’s dissect the nuances of this claim.

We’ve previously touched on the death of luxury – most notably in our post “Luxury is Dead”, where we discussed the April 2024 news of Giorgio Armani Operations being placed into receivership after allegations of labour exploitation. Just a few months later, in June, Dior found itself in court administration over similar accusations. These high-profile cases highlight a much broader issue that plagues the fashion industry: labour exploitation.

Fashion industry & the “Italian” sweatshop problem: is that really the case?


This problem is no secret. Exploitation is a widespread practice across the global fashion landscape, yet CEOs and corporate leadership often downplay it, pretending it’s an anomaly rather than a systemic issue. The focus on outsourcing production to far-off locations to maximise profits by replicating the fast-fashion model has been an intentional choice.

Also, a new challenge has emerged: international buyers, drawn to the quality and tradition of Italian craftsmanship, began demanding prices too low for authentic Made in Italy. As a result, to stay competitive, many manufacturers have turned to sweatshop practices to meet buyers’ growing demands.

International buyers (if they care) should ask themselves: is it realistic to purchase a Made in Italy handbag for around €40 wholesale?

So, when B.O.F. discusses the “Italian sweatshop problem,” we must ask: is this truly an Italian problem, or a global fashion issue? Yes, the investigation is Italian, but is Dior an Italian brand? Even if the manufacturer is Italian, where does the directive come from?

Conclusion


The conversation about labour exploitation in the fashion industry needs to break out of nationalistic confines. Most importantly, it needs to acknowledge that this is an industry-wide practice, regardless of the geographical location of the production.

In conclusion, focusing on Italy alone conveniently overlooks the real source of the problem: the profit-driven machinery of the entire fashion system. What’s being framed as an “Italian sweatshop” problem is, in fact, a reflection of how the fashion industry operates globally.


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MFW SS25: Educating Toward Individuality and the Freedom to Choose

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Challenging algorithmic conformity in a mass-market world


In a fashion landscape dominated by massification, how do people reclaim individuality and the freedom to choose? Is it even possible to cultivate such awareness in a world shaped by algorithms? In a world populated by lookalike, cookie-cutter figures that have no sense of personality?

Milan Fashion Week is underway. And Prada’s Spring-Summer 25 collection sought to address these questions, focusing its narrative on individuality and the power of choice. (Watch the show here).

Although we keep an eye on the Milano Fashion Week, our stance remains critical of the major brands and the fashion industry as a whole. While we believe in the need for change, the industry continues to mire itself in its status quo, seemingly unable – or unwilling – to break free from its current stagnation.

MFW SS25: Prada – fashion & algorithms


“We are submerged by images, and people are facing everything,” explained Miuccia Prada. “We are directed by algorithms. Anything we like, everything we know, it’s because other people are distilling it into us.” 

Is there an overdose of communication and flatness? Absolutely, yes! So, the collection was a deliberate disruption of uniformity: frizzy hair, chaotic outfits, and bold colour combinations came together in a visual challenge to the algorithmic flatness that saturates our screens. Yet, it’s somewhat ironic for brands to rail against algorithms when, without this digital magic, their global business operations might falter.

But let’s focus on the more inspiring message here: a call to educate people towards individuality and reclaim the freedom to choose. This theme resonates deeply with us and aligns with our own commitment to meaningful fashion. A field rooted in timeless design and superior quality, far removed from the disposable nature of fast fashion. Also far away from luxury brands that have no trace of luxury.

Now, can we recover a world of emotions, uniqueness, and true beauty? It starts by embracing authenticity, valuing human imperfections, and moving away from mass-produced conformity. By celebrating individual creativity and encouraging personal expression, we foster a world that honors the depth of emotions and the beauty found in diversity. This recovery involves slowing down, appreciating craftsmanship, and reconnecting with the meaningful aspects of life that make each of us unique. Will this message spread?

Conclusion


In short, the concept of Prada’s show struck a chord. So it prompted us to share it with you in the hope that more will join the movement toward rejecting algorithmic influence and its cookie-cutter masses. In favour of seeking out individuality, quality, and good design.

But can a brand alone awaken such an understanding in consumers? Or will people simply buy these runway looks because of the logo behind them? Ultimately, will Prada continue to rely on algorithms to decide what’s next and promote its garments?


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Repairing Your Clothes: the Future of Fashion

Reading Time: 3 minutes

What happens in a society that makes common sense revolutionary?


In a world where speed defines everything – fast living, fast fashion, and a buy-and-discard mentality – repairing your clothes, taking the time to mend a tear or patch a hole feels almost rebellious. It’s an act of care for your clothes and a gesture of respect toward the environment. But how did we get here? Why does something as simple as repairing clothes, once considered common sense, now feel like a radical act?

Repairing garments isn’t new. It’s been a fundamental part of human life for centuries. Clothing was once valued, made to last, and cared for. People took pride in their ability to prolong the life of what they owned. This wasn’t revolutionary – it was practical. Yet, today, what was once common practice has become radical. What happened?

The shift from repair to replace


The answer lies in the seismic shift from a culture of quality and longevity to one of cheap, disposable goods. Today’s products, especially in fashion, aren’t designed to last. Quality has become a marketing illusion, displayed in glossy advertising but rarely found in the garments themselves. The reality is quite different: overproduction at the expense of labour and the planet, cheap materials, and an endless cycle of overconsumption.

Industries thrive on our desire for instant gratification, conditioning us to constantly seek something new, rather than appreciating what we already own. Garments are produced so cheaply that we’re encouraged to replace them, not repair them. And even if we wanted to, the poor quality of most clothing makes proper repair nearly impossible. This is no accident – it’s the system at work.

The lost art of clothing repair


In this era of fast fashion and superficiality, the knowledge of how to repair clothing has faded. The skills once passeddown through generations, the time it took to mend and care for garments, have largely disappeared. We’ve lost touch with quality, and with it, the appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship.

But there’s power in reclaiming this lost art. Repairing your own clothes – even through creative acts like embroidery or transforming a garment’s shape – can be a deeply empowering experience. It allows you to take control of your wardrobe, customize your pieces, and express your unique style. In a sea of mass-produced sameness, mending becomes an act of individuality.

Why common sense feels revolutionary now


Why does repairing a simple tear feel revolutionary today? It’s because we’ve lost more than just the skill of mending; we’ve lost touch with the values that made such actions second nature. We’ve become disconnected from a meaningful, sustainable way of living, caught in the rush of overconsumption. We’ve lost our sense of balance with nature and with time itself.

But as the climate crisis deepens, more and more people are beginning to reconsider. A shift is happening. Repairing, recycling, and reusing – what once seemed outdated – are becoming vital again. Common sense is making a comeback, not because it’s trendy, but because it’s necessary. And in a world built on the logic of waste, common sense has become revolutionary.

Choosing quality, choosing repair


The truth is, you can’t repair what was made to be discarded. Fast fashion’s low-quality garments aren’t worth the effort. Choosing to repair your clothes means first choosing to invest in quality, in pieces that are worth mending. It means supporting brands that prioritize craftsmanship and durability over fleeting trends.

In the end, repairing your clothes isn’t just about sustainability – it’s about taking back control of a system that profits from our waste. It’s about returning to common sense, even if that feels revolutionary in today’s world.


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What Do You Expect from Fashion?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Unpacking your style needs in today’s ever-changing world


What do you expect from fashion? This is the question we’re posing to you. Really, you! Usually, our approach focuses on niche fashion research, drawing from our industry experience as we search for international, independent designers and hand-pick meaningful garments. In fact, our explorations often touch on the intersections of fashion, culture, and lifestyle, especially in the face of climate change. That is a topic that sets priorities we cannot ignore, prompting a deep-re-evalutaion. But today, it’s all about you.

So, in this fast-changing world, what do you want from the fashion industry? What resonates with you? What do you appreciate, and what do you reject? Are you still brand-oriented, or is your view expanding?

What role does a thoughtful approach play in your choices? Are ethical production practices important to you, or is price still the deciding factor? Has the climate emergency had any impact on your life and your style?

And what about your personal needs? Do you favour fast fashion for its low prices and constant updates? Or are you shifting toward fewer, high-quality garments that stand the test of time?

Ultimately, what do you expect from the fashion industry? And how do you feel about it? As you look at your wardrobe, do you feel connected to the pieces you own, or do you see them as temporary, seasonal trends to be replaced in the near future? How has your relationship with fashion evolved over time?

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