Explorations

EU Commission: A Plan Against Greenwashing

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Can non-mandatory rules fight greenwashing?


On March 22nd, the EU Commission released a plan against greenwashing to protect consumers from unreliable green claims. However, these new rules leave some room for interpretation, which is likely to lead to further confusion.

Environmental claims aren’t reliable

Over the last five years, we started digging deep into sustainable matters. And how tricky it is for people to understand which label is sustainable or not. That is because of greenwashing: the process of brands and companies deceiving consumers to believe they are green when they are not. Obviously, brands release fake green claims to sell more. Indeed, the sustainability business is flourishing. And perhaps, those who believe in fairy tales are happy with it!

The data on greenwashing


These are the data on greenwashing:
53% of green claims are vague, misleading or unfounded information.
40% of claims have no supporting evidence.
1/2 Half of all green labels offer weak or non-existent verification.
There are 230 sustainability labels and 100 green energy labels in the EU, with vastly different levels of transparency.

So, the new criteria aim to make green claims more reliable across the EU, protecting consumers from greenwashing. They also contribute to fostering a circular economy centered around reuse, repair, and recycling.

Expected impacts


“With certain consumers purchasing products that will be truly better for the environment, it is estimated that the impacts on the environment will be highly positive.”

Now the above statement may sound like greenwashing, too. In fact, the only “better for the environment” comes from a drastic reduction of new products and not more eco-products!

The controversial point


“However, it remains a decision of companies to include (or not) environmental claims in their voluntary commercial communications. This means that the companies can control their costs by determining the scope of the claim (if any) considering its expected return on investment. In short, the costs of substantiation are of a voluntary nature to companies as they are part of one’s marketing strategy and therefore credible estimations of the overall cost for the Union market are difficult.”

Therefore, these rules aren’t mandatory for companies. In fact, businesses have been given some leeway on how to provide evidence of their green claims. Likewise, governments will have the discretion to modify the guidelines when transposing them into national legislation.

In conclusion, without unified regulations, the EU plan to fight greenwashing won’t stop greenwashing!

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The Climate Time Bomb

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Economic growth, decoupling & fashion industry


The latest IPCC report, AR6 – Sixth Assessment Report, is a survival guide for humanity to defuse the climate time bomb. Will it awake people’s conscience?

The report & the climate time bomb


“Scientists from the authoritative UN Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), urged for immediate action that can be taken now, to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and adapt to human-caused climate change.”

The study – “Climate Change 2023: Synthesis Report” – calls for urgent climate action to secure a liveable future for all. 
Antonio Guterres declared that the climate-time bomb is ticking, but we have the knowledge and resources to tackle the climate crisis. Only drastic action can avert irrevocable damage to the world. If we act now, we can ensure a livable planet for the future. 

The solution proposed by the IPCC is “climate resilient development,” which involves integrating measures to adapt to climate change with actions to reduce or avoid greenhouse gas emissions in ways that provide wider benefits.

In supporting sustainable development, the discussion is about the decoupling of production and emissions. 

Decoupling – what happens in the fashion industry?


Recently Kering Group launched a climate change adaptation strategy that uses a science-based framework. So, the group set the goal to cut emissions across their supply chain by 40% by 2035. In other words, Kering will keep growing while cutting climate impact.

But here is the point. Can developed countries achieve economic growth decoupled from environmental pressures?

The economist Timothée Parrique replies to that question by debunking this theory.
We quote the closing lines (but we suggest you read the full article here).

So, “the jury has reached a verdict,” said UN Secretary-General António Guterres during the release of the report. For me, the AR6 is the last nail on the coffin of the green growth hypothesis, which I consider to be a broken promise, one of the “empty pledges that put us firmly on track towards an unliveable world,” as Guterres says. 
What if we could time travel to Galileo’s trial today? Which voice would we give credence to? I think the situation concerning decoupling is dramatically similar. Give a few years (hopefully less) for the smoke to disappear, and we’ll soon realise that, just like the Sun doesn’t revolve around the Earth, the continued pursuit of economic growth in rich nations is not compatible with a stable climate.”   

Timothée Parrique

The climate time bomb is ticking, but green growth is not the answer. Though a reduction of consumption may seem utopic, we are afraid it will be too late when we will realise that was our way out.

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Fashion Waste Recycling

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An urgent issue every fashion designer must confront


March 18th was Global Recycling Day, highlighting the challenge of waste recycling, which is deeply connected to the fashion industry. As a matter of fact, recycling is crucial for a circular economy and circular fashion too.

These international days aim to raise awareness on important matters. Unfortunately, we celebrate something but tend to forget the issue the day after.

Fashion industry & waste


As widely highlighted in our previous posts, the fashion industry is part of the waste problem. According to Earth.org, of the 100 billion garments produced each year, 92 million tons end up in landfills. To give a prompt idea, this means that the equivalent of a rubbish truck full of clothes ends up in landfill sites every second.

Waste colonialism


Waste is a global issue. In fact, that is the byproduct of our economic system–capitalism. A structure based on overproduction and exploitation. However, the civilized global North has found a way to avoid facing it. We don’t want to see our garbage. And when confronted with problems, we prefer to ignore it.
So, how does the global north get rid of waste? By dumping the problem in the global south. In case you missed the news, please, read what happens in the Atacama desert in Chile. Or in Ghana, Africa.
As we can see, Northern countries, the rich and civilised ones, continue to perpetuate colonialism. Specifically, waste colonialism.

Recycling waste


“Global Recycling Foundation” promotes the idea of considering waste as an opportunity:

“Every year, the Earth yields billions of tons of natural resources and at some point, in the not too distant future, it will run out.
That’s why we must think again about what we throw away – seeing not waste, but opportunity.”

Waste recycling in fashion industry


First, in order to reduce waste, we need to consume less, much less! But also, we must find solutions for the tons of discarded clothing already shipped to Africa and Chile.

Most importantly, we expect every fashion designer and every company to do their bit and hold themselves accountable. Recycling and upcycling must become part of the plan for the fashion industry. Now.

There’s no time to waste!

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Retail and Sustainability

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How Italian consumers view sustainability


Today, Fashion Network shared a survey released during the second edition of the “Retail & sustainability” event. A meeting arranged by Mind-Milano Innovation District.

This survey scans Italian consumers and their views towards sustainability.

The survey


According to it, Italian consumers are more conscious towards environmental issues. One out of three (32%) is more careful to waste. Also, 30% believe it is crucial to limit pollution sources. Most importantly, 58,6% think companies are important players, together with citizens and government, in order to reach UN 23 goals.

According to the people interviewed, they say there is a mismatch between the active role companies should have and what they are actually doing. Specifically, 57,8% of consumers think that fashion and clothing companies are “little or not at all committed to the issue.”

In other words, Italian consumers say brands are not doing enough for sustainability.

But on the other hand, sustainability doesn’t have a fundamental role in the purchasing decision. Indeed, 65,9% of the interviewees consider multiple factors or not at all these aspects (14,7%).

However, in general, the price of these products or services is deemed higher compared to less sustainable alternatives.

Our viewpoint retail and sustainability

On retail and sustainability we see two problems:
As a matter of fact, brands and retailers are not doing enough. Because it is difficult, it is time-consuming. Most of all, they wouldn’t make money as they did so far. Why should they make this effort? Of course, business and consciousness do not play well in a capitalistic view. But also, consumers still purchase a lot of fast fashion or poor-quality garments.

Why aren’t consumers consistent with their expectations?

As a retailer, apart from our niche customers, the only request we hear is: “how much is it?” Because people do not care about quality. No one cares about “buy less, buy better.” They only want “cheap and buy more!”
Furthermore, social media are complicit in the ongoing diffusion of misleading practices. For instance, many brands with hordes of followers sell shoes for 50€, passing them off as made in Italy! Or cheap clothing with a price tag too low to be sustainable with eco-friendly tags. Do we believe in fairy tales?

So, we really would love to hear from consumers, from you.
As consumers, Italian, European or wherever you come from – what do you expect from retailers? And you, on your side, what are you willing to do for sustainability?

Drop us an email or comment here below!

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How Do We Make Consistent Choices?

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FW23 niche fashion buying


As a niche boutique, how do we make consistent choices? Actions in accordance with our values, ideas, and lifestyle for modern humans. Whether through the thoughts shared here or in conversations with our community, it’s all part of the same approach.

The culture we believe in is not about the perfection of an ideal world. Because it is obvious that we cannot be 100% sustainable, no one can keep that promise. But with our selection, we are doing something radically different. Consistency is crucial for building trust, which is why we must carefully consider every choice we make.

In fact, for a more sustainable approach to fashion buying, our key message is being selective.

Step 1: what is the reason for a fashion brand to exist?


What is the reason for a fashion brand to exist?
Creativity–expressed through good design and through skilled craftsmanship. These are fundamental elements for a fashion brand. However, many “sustainable” brands, beyond choosing eco-friendly materials for their garments, fail to deliver exceptional designs. And without creativity, we don’t need them.
Contemporary brands, on the other hand, must strike the perfect balance between design and sustainability. Today, one cannot exist without the other.

Step 2: how do we select brands?


How do we select brands?
• Avoid juggernauts: Big brands aren’t driving meaningful change. While some may offer refined design, they remain entrenched in overproduction, exploiting both people and the planet. The world cannot sustain this system anymore!
• Reject outdated mindsets: We steer clear of brands that fail to grasp how much the world has changed. Businesses must evolve and adapt to new realities and needs.
• Skip self-proclaimed sustainable labels: There’s no real accountability, just more marketing and less design. The market doesn’t need brands without soul adding to an already overcrowded space.

Our consistent choices: less but better


We learned to search for smaller companies whose designer’s touch and vision are tangible in their unique and meaningful garments. Indeed, they focus on design, and sustainability comes along. They have something to say. Even though it’s not a matter of popularity for us. Moreover, these brands are not mass-produced. Skilled artisans make their garments or accessories, so productions are limited.

How do we make consistent choices?


We operate a careful, accurate, and thoughtful selection searching for value expressed in good design, quality and limited pieces. That’s how fashion can match sustainable standards.

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