Explorations

Italian Sweatshop Problem: Is it an Italian Issue Only?

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Challenging the B.O.F. narrative around labour exploitation in fashion


Recently, The Business of Fashion (B.O.F.) raised a critical topic: the so-called “Italian sweatshop” problem within luxury brands. However, their statement suggested that this issue is uniquely Italian, framing it as a problem specific to the country. But is that really the case? Let’s dissect the nuances of this claim.

We’ve previously touched on the death of luxury – most notably in our post “Luxury is Dead”, where we discussed the April 2024 news of Giorgio Armani Operations being placed into receivership after allegations of labour exploitation. Just a few months later, in June, Dior found itself in court administration over similar accusations. These high-profile cases highlight a much broader issue that plagues the fashion industry: labour exploitation.

Fashion industry & the “Italian” sweatshop problem: is that really the case?


This problem is no secret. Exploitation is a widespread practice across the global fashion landscape, yet CEOs and corporate leadership often downplay it, pretending it’s an anomaly rather than a systemic issue. The focus on outsourcing production to far-off locations to maximise profits by replicating the fast-fashion model has been an intentional choice.

Also, a new challenge has emerged: international buyers, drawn to the quality and tradition of Italian craftsmanship, began demanding prices too low for authentic Made in Italy. As a result, to stay competitive, many manufacturers have turned to sweatshop practices to meet buyers’ growing demands.

International buyers (if they care) should ask themselves: is it realistic to purchase a Made in Italy handbag for around €40 wholesale?

So, when B.O.F. discusses the “Italian sweatshop problem,” we must ask: is this truly an Italian problem, or a global fashion issue? Yes, the investigation is Italian, but is Dior an Italian brand? Even if the manufacturer is Italian, where does the directive come from?

Conclusion


The conversation about labour exploitation in the fashion industry needs to break out of nationalistic confines. Most importantly, it needs to acknowledge that this is an industry-wide practice, regardless of the geographical location of the production.

In conclusion, focusing on Italy alone conveniently overlooks the real source of the problem: the profit-driven machinery of the entire fashion system. What’s being framed as an “Italian sweatshop” problem is, in fact, a reflection of how the fashion industry operates globally.


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MFW SS25: Educating Toward Individuality and the Freedom to Choose

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Challenging algorithmic conformity in a mass-market world


In a fashion landscape dominated by massification, how do people reclaim individuality and the freedom to choose? Is it even possible to cultivate such awareness in a world shaped by algorithms? In a world populated by lookalike, cookie-cutter figures that have no sense of personality?

Milan Fashion Week is underway. And Prada’s Spring-Summer 25 collection sought to address these questions, focusing its narrative on individuality and the power of choice. (Watch the show here).

Although we keep an eye on the Milano Fashion Week, our stance remains critical of the major brands and the fashion industry as a whole. While we believe in the need for change, the industry continues to mire itself in its status quo, seemingly unable – or unwilling – to break free from its current stagnation.

MFW SS25: Prada – fashion & algorithms


“We are submerged by images, and people are facing everything,” explained Miuccia Prada. “We are directed by algorithms. Anything we like, everything we know, it’s because other people are distilling it into us.” 

Is there an overdose of communication and flatness? Absolutely, yes! So, the collection was a deliberate disruption of uniformity: frizzy hair, chaotic outfits, and bold colour combinations came together in a visual challenge to the algorithmic flatness that saturates our screens. Yet, it’s somewhat ironic for brands to rail against algorithms when, without this digital magic, their global business operations might falter.

But let’s focus on the more inspiring message here: a call to educate people towards individuality and reclaim the freedom to choose. This theme resonates deeply with us and aligns with our own commitment to meaningful fashion. A field rooted in timeless design and superior quality, far removed from the disposable nature of fast fashion. Also far away from luxury brands that have no trace of luxury.

Now, can we recover a world of emotions, uniqueness, and true beauty? It starts by embracing authenticity, valuing human imperfections, and moving away from mass-produced conformity. By celebrating individual creativity and encouraging personal expression, we foster a world that honors the depth of emotions and the beauty found in diversity. This recovery involves slowing down, appreciating craftsmanship, and reconnecting with the meaningful aspects of life that make each of us unique. Will this message spread?

Conclusion


In short, the concept of Prada’s show struck a chord. So it prompted us to share it with you in the hope that more will join the movement toward rejecting algorithmic influence and its cookie-cutter masses. In favour of seeking out individuality, quality, and good design.

But can a brand alone awaken such an understanding in consumers? Or will people simply buy these runway looks because of the logo behind them? Ultimately, will Prada continue to rely on algorithms to decide what’s next and promote its garments?


🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

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Fashion Industry: Is it Business as Usual?

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Can the fashion business continue with the same old strategies?


If there were an award for stubbornly clinging to a “business as usual” model, the fashion industry would win without contest. In fact, during a time of deep crisis, there is no sign of change.

We have to admit that working in the fashion industry this month feels stranger than ever for us. Starting a new FW retail season while researching SS25 collections seems particularly surreal. Like living in a fashion bubble disconnected from reality. Indeed, we stay well-informed about current events through our virtual window. Despite the glaring flaws, brands, retailers, and insiders seem trapped in an exploitative and broken system they can neither dismantle nor escape.

Some data points from the fashion system


Just take a look at the fashion magazine headlines or tune into the news – the fashion industry is crumbling:

  • In Turkey, 15,000 textile companies filed for bankruptcy in the first seven months of 2024.
  • By the end of June, 107 shoe manufacturers in Italy had shut down.
  • China’s luxury market is stagnating.
  • At London Fashion Week, amid the market slowdown, designers pressed on. “Keep calm and carry on,” as Business of Fashion put it.
  • Italy’s footwear and leather goods sectors are in decline.
  • Warehouses across the industry are overflowing with unsold goods.

Milano Fashion Week started yesterday, with expectations of economic recovery in the second half of 2025. “The crisis is here, there’s no denying it, but it’s a period of 12-18 months during which the market has slowed down, only to be ready to pick up again afterwards,” says Carlo Capasa. Ok, but how do they actually plan to move forward?

The slowdown, climate emergency & business as usual


The slowdown in the fashion industry is undeniable. Yet, most continue to operate with business as usual. But does it really make sense to approach the fashion business as we always have? What are we trying to achieve by continuing with outdated strategies? Adding more overproduction to an already saturated market, and waiting for the economy to magically recover? Or, are we simply ignoring the problem, living in denial?

This seems to be neither a plan nor a recognition of the urgency of the crisis we’re facing.  Climate change and overproduction in the fashion industry with their devastating effects – exploitation of people and the planet, carbon emissions, and massive waste – are part of the same problem. 

Amid an existential climate and environmental emergency, it’s glaringly obvious that the fashion industry needs a complete systemic change. But how likely is that when all we see is business as usual?


🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

Let’s start a conversation!

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Exploring Spring-Summer 25 Collections from Independent Designers

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Twilight: Meagratia SS25 collection from Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo


As we await the arrival of our Fall-Winter selection, we’re turning our gaze forward, exploring Spring-Summer collections from some of the most innovative independent designers. Today, we take you to Japan, where Meagratia has unveiled its latest vision at the Tokyo Rakuten Fashion Week.

Twilight, the title of Meagratia’s SS25 Collection, feels more than fitting. Known for its soft-avangard design language, Takafumi Sekine once again delivers a collection that transcends trends and time, capturing moments that seem to exist in the space between. His work challenges the mainstream, embracing individuality and a kind of quiet beauty.

However, entering the SS25 buying season, we focus on discovering pieces that resonate beyond aesthetics. Specifically, we are looking for meaningful garments #formodernhumans – a search for pieces that embrace the essence of thoughtful style and personal freedom.

Spring-Summer 25 collections: Meagratia – Twilight


The collection takes inspiration from the light that emerges after sunset and before dawn and the shadow that can be seen there. Therefore, it is an exploration of that elusive in-between. Indeed, it plays with shadows and luminescence, creating a tangible connection between fabric, form, and feeling.

And in a setting with white walls and cobblestone floors, the fashion film mirrors this sensibility. The minimal set allows the collection to breathe – from the cuts to the fall of the fabric. There’s a quiet power in the atmosphere.

Watch the New Collection Film from Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo

Meagratia SS25 Collection • Rakuten Fashion Week Tokyo


Exploring Spring-Summer 25 collections from independent designers, we hope you find inspiration in Meagratia’s SS25 collection film. However, if you are curious about it or have any special requests, feel free to reach out – we’d love to chat and explore together.

Also, while we wait for our new arrivals, don’t miss out on our curated selection of seasonless items available now. Remember, our selection is intentionally exclusive – each piece is carefully chosen to ensure uniqueness and a thoughtful approach.

So, stay tuned for the upcoming Fall-Winter 24-25 exclusive selection arriving soon! Until then, connect with us!

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Repairing Your Clothes: the Future of Fashion

Reading Time: 3 minutes

What happens in a society that makes common sense revolutionary?


In a world where speed defines everything – fast living, fast fashion, and a buy-and-discard mentality – repairing your clothes, taking the time to mend a tear or patch a hole feels almost rebellious. It’s an act of care for your clothes and a gesture of respect toward the environment. But how did we get here? Why does something as simple as repairing clothes, once considered common sense, now feel like a radical act?

Repairing garments isn’t new. It’s been a fundamental part of human life for centuries. Clothing was once valued, made to last, and cared for. People took pride in their ability to prolong the life of what they owned. This wasn’t revolutionary – it was practical. Yet, today, what was once common practice has become radical. What happened?

The shift from repair to replace


The answer lies in the seismic shift from a culture of quality and longevity to one of cheap, disposable goods. Today’s products, especially in fashion, aren’t designed to last. Quality has become a marketing illusion, displayed in glossy advertising but rarely found in the garments themselves. The reality is quite different: overproduction at the expense of labour and the planet, cheap materials, and an endless cycle of overconsumption.

Industries thrive on our desire for instant gratification, conditioning us to constantly seek something new, rather than appreciating what we already own. Garments are produced so cheaply that we’re encouraged to replace them, not repair them. And even if we wanted to, the poor quality of most clothing makes proper repair nearly impossible. This is no accident – it’s the system at work.

The lost art of clothing repair


In this era of fast fashion and superficiality, the knowledge of how to repair clothing has faded. The skills once passeddown through generations, the time it took to mend and care for garments, have largely disappeared. We’ve lost touch with quality, and with it, the appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship.

But there’s power in reclaiming this lost art. Repairing your own clothes – even through creative acts like embroidery or transforming a garment’s shape – can be a deeply empowering experience. It allows you to take control of your wardrobe, customize your pieces, and express your unique style. In a sea of mass-produced sameness, mending becomes an act of individuality.

Why common sense feels revolutionary now


Why does repairing a simple tear feel revolutionary today? It’s because we’ve lost more than just the skill of mending; we’ve lost touch with the values that made such actions second nature. We’ve become disconnected from a meaningful, sustainable way of living, caught in the rush of overconsumption. We’ve lost our sense of balance with nature and with time itself.

But as the climate crisis deepens, more and more people are beginning to reconsider. A shift is happening. Repairing, recycling, and reusing – what once seemed outdated – are becoming vital again. Common sense is making a comeback, not because it’s trendy, but because it’s necessary. And in a world built on the logic of waste, common sense has become revolutionary.

Choosing quality, choosing repair


The truth is, you can’t repair what was made to be discarded. Fast fashion’s low-quality garments aren’t worth the effort. Choosing to repair your clothes means first choosing to invest in quality, in pieces that are worth mending. It means supporting brands that prioritize craftsmanship and durability over fleeting trends.

In the end, repairing your clothes isn’t just about sustainability – it’s about taking back control of a system that profits from our waste. It’s about returning to common sense, even if that feels revolutionary in today’s world.


🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears.
Let’s start a conversation!

#formodernhumans

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