Explorations

Tamborini (Confindustria Moda) at Luxury Summit: “Italy lacks an industrial policy”

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Confindustria Moda and trade unions unite to support the fashion industry


Sergio Tamborini, president of Confindustria Moda Federazione Tessile e Moda, spoke at Il Sole 24 Ore’s Luxury Summit following the signing of the 2024–2027 National Collective Labour Agreement, on May 6. His remarks were an admission of systemic failure—and a call to arms.

The crisis: “We are in the fourth negative semester”


“We are in the fourth consecutive negative semester—not just in textiles and apparel, but across the fashion sector, including leather goods, which are under intense pressure.”

Tamborini didn’t mince words: The textile, apparel, and leather goods sectors are under severe pressure, with no relief in sight. Yet the real issue isn’t just cyclical decline—it’s structural neglect.

The missing player: Politics


Tamborini emphasised that the agreement wasn’t an adversarial negotiation: “We did not sign this contract from opposite sides of the table. For the first time, employers and unions stood together, because a fundamental player is missing — it is politics.”

Tamborini added: “The country lacks an industrial policy, and not only for this sector, there are also transversal issues such as energy.”

“We have fully realised that politics is not able to manage this thing because it has not understood this sector, perhaps because it has spoken too softly for too long, due to its fragmented structure, given that it did not have leading companies that spoke for the entire sector like Fiat for the automotive sector.”

Italy’s fashion sector has no Fiat-like champion to demand attention. The result? A government that has not understood this sector, leaving it vulnerable to energy crises, supply chain collapses, and global competition.

The warning: “We risk total darkness”


Tamborini referenced a recent blackout in Spain as a metaphor for systemic collapse. When critical links fail, the entire system goes dark. Italian fashion supply chain—fragmented and undervalued—faces the same fate.

“As we saw with the blackout in Spain, with these interconnected networks, when moments of connection are lost then there is total darkness and we are risking a similar condition because if we lose pieces of the supply chain, then we risk losing the entire supply chain.”

The plan: Unions as unlikely allies


With politics absent, Tamborini announced an unprecedented alliance: Confindustria Moda and unions will draft their own industrial policy to “present to the government.” A strategic rebellion—or simply filling a political void?

Final thoughts: The irony of “Made in Italy”


Tamborini expressed palpable frustration that while Italy’s leaders applaud fashion weeks, they ignore the industry’s backbone. The irony? A sector that fuels national pride survives despite politics, not because of it.

“It is nice to go to the fashion shows. But then you have to realise that 600,000 people are employed in a sector that is the country’s second-largest manufacturing base. It generates 60% of exports and €30 billion in trade balance. We haven’t been able to say this—but they haven’t understood it either.”

Indeed. When the lights go out on manufacturing, even the brightest catwalks fade to black.

Question for readers: Can Italian fashion outlast its government’s indifference? Or will it take a total collapse to force change?

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Tailoring Black Style: The Met Gala stands against Trump’s anti-DEI agenda

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Fashion fights back: Resisting the erosion of Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion


Superfine: Tailoring Black Style is the theme of the 2025 Met Gala. A direct response to the growing threat to Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) under Trump’s influence. As the Trumpization of politics fuels division across American culture and beyondthe global fashion industry is pushing back. So, this year’s Met Gala deliberately centres Black creativity. In fact, the event caught our attention because we see fashion as culture. Specifically, we’re interested in unpacking the concepts and messages woven into the clothes.

The Met Gala: Beyond celebrity spectacle


We’ve never been ardent admirers of the Met Gala. Ostensibly a fundraiser for the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Costume Institute, the event has devolved into a display of celebrity excess, far removed from true elegance. As Tom Ford once remarked, “The event turned into a costume party.”

But this year, something different happened.

Tailoring Black StyleFashion as identity and resistance


The 2025 exhibition, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style, focuses on cultural significance, not just celebrity theatrics. Divided into 12 sections, it draws inspiration from Monica L. Miller’s 2009 book, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity, exploring how African American designers have shaped global fashion.

The dress code, Tailored for You, was more than an aesthetic choice—it was a declaration of identity. As Anna Wintour stated, “In this political moment, this exhibition and gala stand in solidarity with the Black community.”

A defiant statement against Trump’s anti-DEI policies


However, the timing is no coincidence. Within Trump’s first 100 days in office, DEI initiatives faced aggressive dismantling, including attempts to erase Black history from cultural institutions. Academy Award-winning costume designer Ruth Carter voiced a shared frustration“They’re taking everything away from us.”

So, this year’s Met Gala was a direct challenge to that erasure. By celebrating Black contributions to fashion, it resisted the administration’s regressive policies.

Final thoughts


With Tailoring Black Style, the Met Gala not only celebrated the Black community’s contribution to fashion but also reinforced fashion’s role as a cultural and political statement.

As DEI principles come under attack, events like this matter. They are acts of defiance—reminders that culture cannot be whitewashed. In this spirt, we stand with every individual, brand, and institution that rejects the Trumpization of society and upholds the values of diversity, equity, and inclusion.

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The stories behind SS25: Tension between idealism and reality

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One piece, one story: Limited items, endless conflicts


The stories behind SS25 aren’t fairytales. They’re reckonings.

The fashion industry is a circus and most people? Willing clowns. They chase novelty like toddlers chase sweets, even as the world burns. So we’re breaking ranks—no mindless drops, no garbage disguised as “value.” Just one piece, one story. In fact, every garment we curate carries weight. Because if you’re going to wear something, it better mean something.

The conflict: slow fashion vs. the dopamine hit


Slow fashion is the only sane choice. But sanity is hardly viral — is it? People still salivate over false luxury or fast-fashion landfill fodder. Preach sustainability, then queue for the next drop. Hypocrisy is the trend that never dies.

We’ve no patience for double standards. So no half-measures, we lead with facts.

This curation is for those who actually give a damn and have an eye for good design. Those who treat clothing as cultural armour, not disposable content. For the ones who know “luxury” isn’t a logo—it’s integrity. Who understand modern humans don’t chase consumption, but consider consequences

If that’s not you? No offence taken. The big tops are just over there.

For the rest, this Spring/Summer 25 demands you rethink “enough”

  • Expect less. Demand better.
  • Fabrics that provoke more than they perform.
  • Cuts that make you look iconic, not mass-produced.
  • Zero gender, zero compromise.
  • Archive-worthy—because “new” is the oldest trick in the book.

Limited quantities. Unlimited dissent.

This isn’t just a curation. It’s a counterargument. Call us idealistic, but since when was refusing to set the planet on fire considered radical?

Ultimately, the stories behind SS25 aren’t for the masses—they’re for those ready to pick a side. And if you’re still reading? You’re likely already choosing.

So, which side is yours?

P.S. If you’re tired of the circus, ask us what’s in stock (e-mail or WhatsApp). Or don’t. The choice is the whole point.

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Reclaiming European culture: casualties of casual

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How Europe surrendered its cultural identity to American homogenisation


Reclaiming European culture is the natural response to the cultural shift America took under Trump—marked by vulgarity, populism, and nationalism. It’s the kind of reaction we expect from Europe. Over time, we’ve lost our cultural identity—and even our sense of style—in the name of a so-called “freedom” that the U.S. packaged and sold to the world.

In fact, over the past few decades, Europe has undergone a profound cultural shift—one not solely driven by immigration or progressive ideologies, as many claim. A subtler yet deeper transformation lies in our surrender to American cultural homogenisation: extreme consumerism, disposability, the cult of convenience, and the rise of performative informality. It’s not just about fashion. It’s about values. Capitalism, disguised as freedom, seduced us—all in the name of profit.

The loss of form, the loss of meaning


Historically, European culture cherished the idea of form—an appreciation of ritual, aesthetics, and context. Manners were never submission—they were shared codes of respect. Dressing appropriately wasn’t about elitism but about showing care. As much as it may seem trivial, style has always reflected specific values. The values of our culture. But now, everything must be fast, loud, and easy. Formality is mocked as outdated; effort is dismissed as snobbery.
What we’re witnessing is the slow erasure of nuance, the death of “how” in favour of “whatever works.”

The American dream, exported


We adopted the language of freedom but hollowed out meaning. In the name of so-called democratisation, we’ve embraced casualness not as an option—but as the rule. And with it, came a flattening of taste, language, even thought. European distinctiveness—rich with contradictions, elegance, and complexity—is being reduced to a homogenised mass. We’ve confused informality with progress. Pasolini, ever prophetic, warned against consumerism: “and above all, its wild, almost cosmic drive to produce and consume: the false god of ‘Development’ — the new power that deceives the people.”

Values and elegance as resistance: defending diversity


To reclaim European culture is not to exclude or regress—it is to resist erasure. True diversity, after all, flourishes only when roots are intact. Values, elegance, manners, codes—these are not colonial relics, but tools of human connection, developed over centuries. Their abandonment doesn’t make us freer—it makes us formless.

Final thoughts


If Europe is to resist cultural erasure, it must reject this hollow mimicry of Americanisation. Therefore, in the face of America’s cultural drift, reclaiming European culture isn’t nostalgia—it’s survival.

The next time we applaud someone showing up in sweatpants or pyjamas in places that require appropriate clothing, let’s ask: are we truly celebrating freedom? Or simply bowing to a new kind of conformity, sold to us as liberation?
Europe’s future may well depend on rediscovering the value of form—not as stiffness, but as intention. A culture that knows its depth doesn’t need to imitate anyone. It simply needs to remember itself.

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The disappearance of civility: Elegance, manners, and the myth of democratisation

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On how contemporary society confuses freedom with the erosion of social grace


One cannot help but reflect on the disappearance of civility—and the growing confusion between elegance, manners and the myth of democratisation.

Good manners have always included dressing appropriately for place and occasion. And yet, when this topic is brought up, the response is often a critique in the name of democratisation. Today, this notion is increasingly dismissed as antiquated—even oppressive. The lack of manners, a progressive loosening of behavioural codes—from workplaces to weddings—is justified by a mistaken sense of freedom and equality. As though getting rid of rules were an act of liberation, rather than a weakening of our shared social fabric.

Civility, like elegance, has nothing to do with wealth.

Manners and elegance vs wealth


This speaks to our era’s fundamental confusion: mistaking freedom for negligence, and democracy for the flattening of all nuance. Manners—which also encompass knowing how to dress appropriately for context—are a form of respect, both towards oneself and others. They require no luxury, only intention. In fact, they constitute a silent language that communicates attentiveness, awareness, and social sensitivity. They have nothing to do with material wealth but with an inner richness: the ability to inhabit the world with grace.

Yet today, any code or standard is met with suspicion — as if it were elitist or exclusionary. The well-intentioned push for inclusivity has paradoxically normalised indifference. Sloppiness wears the mask of authenticity; carelessness postures as rebellion, as though these were symbols of liberation or progress. We’ve forgotten that true democratisation isn’t “no rules,” but rather ensuring that everyone has access to the tools to make conscious choices.

Good manners or elegance are not the privilege of a few, nor are they tied to wealth. They are the heritage of those who choose to cultivate them—and this applies equally to how we dress.

The world is full of billionaires having no trace of elegance. That is precisely the point: they are values, not commodities. Yet in an era where everything is often measured in economic terms, we lose sight of all that which cannot be bought — and which, paradoxically, is worth far more than anything that can be.

Social conventions—including dress codes—are not cages, but cultural coordinates that enable a more harmonious coexistence. Abandoning them in the name of authenticity or unfiltered spontaneity often means relinquishing that subtle fabric of mutual respect which holds social life together.

Final thoughts


True democracy does not abolish civility—it makes it accessible to all. Ultimately, good manners and elegance are nothing more than expressions of attentiveness, empathy, and care. Values that have nothing to do with social class, and everything to do with human quality.

When talking about the disappearance of civility, Pier Paolo Pasolini once said:

“Vulgarity is the peak expression of conformism.”

His words remind us that when the dismantling of standards is mistaken for progress, we risk replacing genuine freedom with a shallow performance of it. What we lose is not just formality, but a culture rooted in meaning—where care, elegance, and attention weren’t elitist gestures, but signs of respect. 

In their place, we inherit a performative casualness. Indifference now parades as authenticity.

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