Explorations

People Don’t Read

Reading Time: 2 minutes

In a world of images, words demand too much effort


People don’t read. Don’t ask people to read. Please, just don’t. In the fashion field, there’s no need to dig deep into socio-cultural-economic aspects. Customers don’t want to know more. Instead, bombard them with shopping prompts. Continuously. Endlessly. But do not involve them in a piece that makes them stop and think. Just push them to buy! In fact, it’s a profitable engagement, a language they truly appreciate.

People want images. If you put them in front of words, they are forced to stop, read and reflect. That takes some time, and it is annoying.

Just show them images, let them click on the buy-now button, and they’ll be fine with it. Why question things? Just follow along. Accept. Consume. Repeat.

Social media absorbs the attention, you start scrolling for a few minutes, and you end up eaten up by an endless stream of superficial information. There, there’s no need to read. Indeed you can stop at the titles or just a few words.

But you are well-targeted and, most of all, you are going to shop. Yes, there’s nothing else people want.

people don't read, image of reading a book


However, the pattern is not new. Pavlov experimented on this behaviour with dogs, he showed them the trigger and got the reaction. Indeed, this conditioned reflex works well with humans too. Brands know the game and accordingly shaped the world for us.

From ‘cogito ergo sum’, corporations worked to embed ‘shop ergo sum’. By influencing our brains and behaviour, they did a great job.

Why?
Because people don’t read. They don’t like reading, as they don’t like thinking.

For instance, if you want to ponder a little, do you know that funny thing called accessible luxury? How about ethical businesses when brands still produce in places where human rights do not exist?

But no, do not search for discussion or sharing ideas. There’s no need to understand fashion context. Keep it superficial, feed them with products. And, please, don’t be too refined.

There’s no need to think. Stick to your well-known pattern.
Don’t read. Don’t choose. Just shop!

Unless you realise you can choose – to read.

People Don’t Read Read More »

Decoding the Sexy Trend

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Empowerment or outdated cliché?


From New York to Milano and Paris runways, the sexy trend was one of the most prominent themes for next Spring/Summer 22.

Cut-out tops and pants, catsuits, ultra-mini skirts, mid-riff – covering the body just enough and leaving little to the imagination. If still there’s something to imagine, considering the quality of images shared on social media. In that context, the appreciation of freedom stops at the possibility of showing themselves naked.

Ironically, we first wondered if designers knew that, during the pandemic, people put on weight. But don’t feel sad, if you want to wear your catsuit you have about four months to get in perfect shape!

However, keeping irony aside, let’s analyse the meaning of the style proposal that came out as the designers’ favourite.

Fashion journalists reported this trend as an expression of joy, a celebration for a much-awaited return to social life. After more than a year in lockdown, people mainly wore jumpsuits or pyjamas. Now they are eager to enjoy dinners and parties. So the night out mood is on.

SS22: the sexy trend and its meaning


Although we understand the desire for sociality, we believe the sexy trend hides a much different motivation. The way a designer can portray evening style doesn’t necessarily imply promoting a hooker outfit.

We disagree with this pre-packed story. And so, we try to see it from a different socio-cultural-economic perspective.

We read the sexy trend as the trite vision of a woman dressed up to have a hold on a man. Does it sound new to you? To us, it seems so status quo.

It is old as the story of the universe. And, what’s more? It sells! Indeed marketers use sex to sell anything and everything. Furthermore, at this specific moment, the urgent need is to make money to cover the economic losses caused by the pandemic. Money, easy and fast.

So, here you are, served with the sexy doll. The same old perpetuated stereotype as the most accessible short-term benefit.

What a breath of fresh air – we might say!

Decoding the Sexy Trend Read More »

The Fashion Debate

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Old systems, false progress, and mixed messages


The fashion debate that follows the shows navigates oscillates between clinging to the same old system and pretending to embrace new ways. The interviews recently released seemed to send nonsensical messages. Indeed, it’s easy to notice a glaring lack of consistency. Words fail to align with actions, creating a disconnect that reverberates like a short-circuit in the industry.

However, if we want to change for the better, understanding what’s going on in the fashion field is fundamental. So, we have to analyse designers’ messages and perhaps, read between the lines.

The debate highlights


On the one hand, the runways were all about merchandising. With the fashion shows, designers promoted a compelling ‘shop now’ message – more than ever. Proposals perfectly aligned to the pre-pandemic era, with no interruption regarding the lexicon.

On the other side, they are releasing interviews about sustainability. Some send ethical messages, eco-friendly references. While some others are talking about couture as a decisive strategy.

And so? What is the sense in that?

To be clear, it’s one way or the other—otherwise, the fashion debate is pointless!
Designers have to choose on what side they are on. A brand cannot produce tons of goods and then feel better because they select some sustainable materials. Or because they also have a couture line that, maybe one day, will save the world. In case the world shifts its direction for real. Yet in the meantime, they push for over-consumption.

The choice is between overproduction or couture, mass-market versus lesser productions. It’s one or the other.
Focus on pure merchandising or conscious proposals, one or the other.
Empty marketing claims to show to the world how ethical or sustainable they suddenly became versus providing value and beautiful collections.
Again, between fostering the status quo or having the courage to start something new. It is one or the other.

They can’t have it both ways.
The two ingredients don’t fit on the same plate.

The Fashion Debate Read More »

Overconsumption = Extinction

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Activism disrupting fashion shows


Overproduction is devastating our culture, and it’s directly connected to the way we consume: overconsumption. Indeed we discussed this topic in many of our previous posts. We recognise that it’s deeply rooted in our social context.

October 5, Louvre Art Gallery. When the Louis Vuitton fashion show started, an activist broke in, carrying a sign reading:
“Overconsumption = Extinction.”

The protestor represented ‘Amis de la Terre France’, ‘Youth for Climate’ and ‘Extinction Rebellion’. She marched down the runway along with the models until a security guard forced her to leave.

Overconsumption ≠ extinction, protest disrupting Louis Vuitton fashion show
Photo credit: Amis De La Terre FR


The reason for the protest? It was stated on the banner clearly. Overconsumption = Extinction.
Why LVMH? It’s understandable since LVMH is a luxury conglomerate – so to say, a profit-oriented corporation.

It’s known that corporations make profits by exploiting the market, squeezing the lemon to the max.

Luxury conglomerates & overproduction


Overproduction is the way corporations thrive. They run ever faster, renewing the range of products nonstop. Doesn’t it sound familiar with the market of mobile phones too? And in order to be able to sell all the tons of goods they produce, they push people to consume more and more – to the point of brainwashing them by playing with marketing tricks.

This protest went on after a pandemic, precisely during a fashion week in which some shifts were awaited. Even more, ‘rewiring fashion’ seemed a subject so dear to many major industry players.

If not radical changes, at least, we expected to see a little sign. Despite this, the only news was the protester disrupting a fashion show.

Is there another way to approach fashion? Or business in general? Of course – but it’s not mainstream. Also, two more facts are striking: first, people talk – a lot – but still buy fast fashion. Second, no one talks about the impact of technology, which perhaps sells more than fashion.

What we consume and how we consume makes the difference. Obviously, it’s not related to fashion only. It’s about all industries. It’s a matter of lifestyle and economic system.

Shifting your habits is the only way to avoid extinction. Hear the protest if you care enough for the future!

Overconsumption = Extinction Read More »

Paris Fashion Week – En Plein Air!

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Key takeaways from the Parisian fashion shows


A couple of messages seem clear from Paris Fashion Week. Apart from the most evident fact that nothing truly has changed. The idea of renovating a system, so discussed during the pandemic, changing its outdated foundations, providing new guiding principles and deeper values, has failed miserably. That’s what fashion ruled by finance does. Forget lesser productions with better quality – this is not for corporations.

Image of Paris during fashion week
Paris

So, what are the takeaways from Paris fashion shows? 

Paris Fashion Week: SS22 trends


Nature’s calling
Sea, trees, woods. This message seemed quite strong. Indeed, many designers have set up their fashion shows immersed in nature. As to celebrate something we all missed for over a year or more. Or a desire to reconnect with our so mistreated vital element.

Clothes have no gender
We saw male models walking the runway in skirts or dresses and females in man’s suits – interchangeable genderless outfits. Not that it’s something new. In fact, Gaultier already did it about 40 years ago. But perhaps, the time is ripe now for a wider audience. 

At this point, garments have lost their traditional gender connotation. An aesthetic that, from a historical viewpoint, has been developed as a reflection of patriarchy. We understand this is a big topic. Indeed, it requires a deeper analysis, a full exploration. So we will dedicate a whole post later on. However, coming from a Gaultier influence, we always picked out men’s pieces for women or vice versa. If a garment looks good, no matter if it’s men’s or women’s. From now on, we hope for a more open and free attitude towards how clothing is perceived.

Garments are not stand-alone pieces. They become alive once we wear them. Without our intervention, clothes are empty. It’s us and our personality that completes them. 

The way we represent clothes, the way we portray them is called style. 
It’s an individual posture, the reflection of who we are. 

Paris Fashion Week – En Plein Air! Read More »