Was the previous tenure worth the ride? And what game are corporations really playing with fashion?
As Sabato De Sarno abruptly leaves Gucci, the fashion world is abuzz with speculation about the brand’s future. But beyond the headlines, his departure raises deeper questions about the state of the luxury fashion industry and the role of creative directors in shaping iconic brands. While most are focused on who will take the reins next, we’re asking a different question: What is this game truly about?
As the fashion industry remains engrossed in a never-ending game of musical chairs—currently involving other maisons like Dior and Fendi—we can’t help but question the very foundation of the industry itself.
Specifically, in Gucci’s case, we ask: Was the previous tenure—Alessandro Michele’s era—worth the ride?
Retracing Gucci’s path before De Sarno
Alessandro Michele transformed Gucci’s image, imposing his own aesthetic—a chaotic, flea-market-inspired vision where anything was possible but which bore little resemblance to the brand’s heritage. Worse, he flooded the market with products that became repetitive, overexposed, and ultimately unsellable, even at steep discounts.
When the game was over, Michele was dismissed. It was a matter of ego rather than thoughtful stewardship—a failure to honour Gucci’s history and values.
He left, but the damage was done. Gucci’s legacy was diluted, its market oversaturated with items like furry slippers that no one wanted anymore.
The House of Gucci: Enter Sabato De Sarno
De Sarno was tasked with performing a miracle: cleaning up the mess in less than two seasons. Unfortunately, this didn’t happen—and not because of him. Rebuilding a brand’s identity and value takes time. But for corporations, time is a luxury they can’t afford. They are even ignorant about fashion; money is their only focus. They demand immediate results, immediate profits. And in the face of a luxury market slowdown, those profits didn’t materialise.
On this matter, we particularly admire Fecondazione Prada’s satirical take on Instagram:
“Large luxury company looking for new scapegoat.
er… creative director.”
This biting commentary nails the reality of how luxury brands often treat creative directors as disposable, shifting blame when strategies fail.
On De Sarno leaving Gucci
Destroying the legacy of a fashion house might have seemed like a bold move—even a fun game. In reality, it’s a dangerous gamble, one that leaves lasting scars.
As Sabato De Sarno leaves Gucci, we’re not asking who will replace him. Instead, we’re left wondering: What was the point of Michele’s game? Was it ever worth replicating at Valentino? And, ultimately, what game are corporations really playing with fashion?
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