Violent responses in modern society

Where do we want to go next?

Violence is served to us continuously. It happens in movies as well as in tv shows. But sadly, it happens in reality too. Even if we focus on our work, the current exceptional facts are inescapable. Anyway, the war is turning the fashion industry upside-down.

Violence is the response we see on a daily basis and to any act. And it is curious to see how people condemn it or accept it depending on the case.

How does a violent response happen?

Someone says something. Someone does not respect an agreement, or someone crushes your foot. The list could be longer because we can find endless occasions that would trigger a mindless reaction. However, by crushing the foot, that someone hits someone else’s nerves. And what does this someone else do? This someone else reacts with violence. A violent reaction can go from slapping someone in the face to invading a country, just to name two possibilities.

Perhaps both examples may sound familiar. Whatever may have caused the violent response – “You assault somebody, you get escorted out the building, and that’s it.” So stated the Oscar co-host, Wanda Sykes, for instance.

Following the same logic: you assault another country, you get invited to stop! Because whatever caused your reaction, borders cannot be violated. Of course, we weigh both sides considering the wider picture, but only one side is the aggressor. Therefore, to remain equidistant means being on the side of those using violence.

Violence is a human tendency, but it’s a brutal response

Violence is a human tendency, but it is a brutal response and must always be condemned. Because when you react violently, you’ve already lost. Even if provoked by someone, it shouldn’t be accepted.

As a matter of fact, we get accustomed to violence more easily than to respect or kindness. It’s time to understand that this attitude is not constructive.

Violence is never the answer. Let’s make it clear. Let’s make them stop.


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Paris Fashion Week 22

Fashion as a means of protest

Paris Fashion Week 22 is over, and even there, the heartbeats felt in the past weren’t beating that much. The atmosphere was cooled down. Designing a collection during the pandemic for brands that have to grind a lot of money wasn’t the ideal ground.
Furthermore, showing during a war wiped out fashion relevance.

For sure, the war in Ukraine made us wonder what’s the sense in what we do.

Fall/Winter 22 Pret-a-porter

The purpose was to use every single voice, runway, or platform to protest. Even though we have to keep up with our work, we cannot stay silent in front of Ukraine’s tragedy. And so, we really appreciated all the designers who took a stand and raised their voices in support of Ukraine.

As in Milano, the ’90s were leading in Paris too: the white tank top, the slip dress, transparencies, crop-tops were everywhere. Also, Balenciagitis infected all designers in Paris too. In short, it was all about big shoulders.

Paris Fashion Week 22: some random tiny notes

Dior: a futuristic approach mixed with the past generated a far-fetched confusion.

Saint Laurant: this time is yes! Anthony Vaccarello made a very elegant collection respecting the maison’s heritage. The final tuxedos outfits were gorgeous!

Dries Van Noten: the video presentation looked like a commercial to launch his cosmetic line. Time to monetize!

Balmain: Olivier Rousteing is a good designer, but the show was too futuristic. Armours can protect you from haters but will never give you the elegance of a blazer.

Chloé: you can cook without salt, but the food has no taste. We saw some of the classics remixed with well-known marketing trends. However, the collection was insipid, and the beauty created by Natacha Ramsey-Levi vanished.

Uma Wang: a modern and beautiful collection shown through an impactful video.

Issey Miyake: one of the best digital presentations, “sow it and let it grow”, was the message. Indeed, the video was the story of growth and re-birth, which showed the cycle of nature through clothing.

Yohji Yamamoto: can you renovate while being faithful to your style? Only a master like him can do it, and his work is like poetry for fashion. The way he tailored denim was unique.

image of Paris - tour Eiffel in support of Ukraine

Boyarovskaya: impactful and chilling video. The Belarusian and Ukrainian duo sends a heartbreaking message.

Ann Demeulemeester: still white sneakers, for real? And weren’t all models wearing the same outfit again this season?

Balenciaga: Gvasalia’s background voice was chilling. His obsession for the East-European refugee outfits was clear so far, but his misshapen imagery never felt so real and angsty.

Valentino: PP Piccioli’s words, before the show, were everything: “we see you, we feel you”. A whole collection in PP Pink and some black. The message was strong, but the choice limited the beauty we used to see at Valentino shows. And the pre-show seemed like a commercial for Spiderman.

Vuitton: Ghesquière too got Balenciagitis! But we loved the tie outfits.

Chanel: a very wearable and balanced tweed story. No headshots.

Miu Miu: from preppy to biker style, call them winter outfits if you live in California! Panties peaking through the waistline recalled the first Dolce&Gabbana. Ok for the coats, jackets and column dresses. The rest, too mini, too cropped.

Paris Fashion Week 22
Final thoughts

Unfortunately, the return of the runways signalled the re-awakening of the collateral circus. However, let’s debunk a myth:
Who said video presentations aren’t a valuable means to introduce a collection? Don’t say it again, please.

And above all, one point emerged: activism through fashion is a thoughtful way to bring back a sense of purpose in our work.


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It’s war! The world we don’t want

Can fashion stay relevant during a war next to our door?

It’s war! Yesterday we awoke with a clear feeling of insanity and disgust as the first news we heard in the morning told us that Russia declared war on Ukraine.

From the end of the Cold War to a real war

The fact sent us back to the past. Indeed, the terrible news was like a flashback that took us to the year Sting released the song Russians. It was 1985 – we were teenagers, music was the centre of our universe, and that song impacted us. By the way, the world was almost at the end of the Cold War.

Russians lyrics came to our mind evoking sad thoughts:
“In Europe and America, there’s a growing feeling of hysteria
Conditioned to respond to all the threats
In the rhetorical speeches of the Soviets.”

Nothing has changed over time, nor can we say humanity has ever learned something from past events. The majority of which were man-made disgraces. In fact, we keep on repeating the same mistakes over and over again, and perhaps we like it too.


The background of Milano Fashion Week

Against this background of horrible facts, we should talk about Milano Fashion Week. And to be honest, it doesn’t come so easy.

The first impression we have is that the language has become cloying. All the wording, from sustainability to diversity, from inclusion to genderless, flooded the industry and flattened the proposals. These empty claims seem to depict a fake universe detached from reality. In the end, brands follow one another without having a real character that makes them unique.

“Balenciagitis” is a kind of contagious phenomenon which has affected many brands, depriving them of their core identity.

The mood so far seemed very 90’s: tank tops, layering, see-through dresses.

However, Putin’s scary words and actions today resonate with more than fashion. So we quote Sting’s song again:

“There’s no such thing as a winnable war
It’s a lie we don’t believe anymore!”

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