sustainable fashion

The Ottanio Set by suite123

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Vintage fabrics, artisanal tailoring, timeless aesthetic — for the people who make clothes part of their story


This is The Ottanio Set by suite123 — a flowing maxi skirt and a relaxed blouse.
In a system that produces tonnes of disposable clothing, we curate: one piece, one story. A radical view for ethical and aesthetic resistance — meaningful garments, an expression of good design. Slow fashion — made to last, made by hand.

Some fabrics wait years before finding the right shape. This set begins long before it was cut and stitched. Its fabric comes from a hidden archive. Across our collection, some pieces are made from vintage fabrics; others from carefully preserved deadstock, all chosen because their quality deserved another future. In fact, they belong to a time when cloth endured — chosen with care, saved with intention, because beauty never expires.

Our mother understood that. A seamstress by profession, an artisan by instinct, she collected fabrics not as leftovers, but as possibilities. Today, those possibilities become garments once again.

There is no brand to celebrate here. No logo. No marketing story. Only craftsmanship. Only fabrics that have already proved their worth. And only one creation that will never exist again.

We cut and sew each set by hand in Milano from archive textiles. Once the fabric ends, the design ends with it.

The Ottanio Set by suite123 — vintage fabric maxi skirt and blouse ensemble. Model in three-quarter studio pose on grey background.

One-of-a-kind: crafted from vintage and deadstock fabrics


The design
Two pieces created to work together — or apart.
A flowing maxi skirt with an elasticated waistband, two side slip pockets and a silhouette that moves naturally with the body. Comfortable enough for everyday life, elegant enough to become something more.
A relaxed blouse with a boat neckline, dropped shoulders and an asymmetric hem that can be worn loose or gently tucked into the skirt. Soft structure. Quiet confidence.

The colour — deep ottanio, somewhere between teal and the sea before a storm — gives the set its calm presence.

The make
Made in Italy. Designed and handcrafted in Milano using carefully preserved vintage and deadstock fabrics. Every piece is unique because every length of fabric is unique. There are no production runs, no replenishments, no identical replacements. When this fabric is gone, the story is complete.

The Ottanio Set: timeless style handcrafted in Milano


Understated elegance, designed to live many lives. Not for trends. Not for occasions. For the people who make clothes part of their story.

How to style

For everyday: wear the blouse with worn-in denim or tailored trousers. The clean lines let the fabric do the talking.

For slow weekends: pair the maxi skirt with a crisp white cotton T-shirt and leather sandals. Simple proportions. Timeless ease.

For dinner: wear the complete set with sculptural jewellery and understated shoes. Elegant without trying to impress.

For travel: pack the blouse and skirt separately. Together they offer the effortless elegance of a dress; apart they multiply your wardrobe without adding weight to your suitcase.

For the modern humans who curate, not consume — whose wardrobe is a library of dog-eared favourites, each piece a chapter in their story.


🌟 The Ottanio Set by suite123

One fabric. One set. One story. Designed for everyday wear. Made to become part of yours. 

🖤 To enquire: DM @suite123 | WhatsApp | Email

Available by appointment for private shopping in Milano or worldwide — from screen to doorstep.

P.S. Ask us about the fabric’s story. We know where it came from, who saved it, and why there will never be another set exactly like this.

The Ottanio Set by suite123 Read More »

Unsold stock destruction: EU ban now in force. Why are legislators tackling the outcome instead of the cause?

Reading Time: 4 minutes

Fashion still has one problem legislators chose not to solve: overproduction


The EU ban on unsold stock destruction has now come into force.

Under the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR), large companies are no longer allowed to destroy unsold clothing, clothing accessories and footwear. The measure aims to reduce textile waste and encourage more circular ways of managing excess inventory.

Instead of destroying unsold products, companies are encouraged to improve stock management and explore alternatives such as resale, donations, remanufacturing and reuse.

The ban applies to large companies from 19 July 2026, while medium-sized companies will have to comply from 2030. Destruction remains possible only in specific, justified circumstances, including safety risks, irreparable product damage and counterfeit goods.

Related post: Destruction of unsold textiles: a historic ban… with many loopholes

There is no doubt that preventing perfectly usable garments from being destroyed is a positive step. Every year, between 4% and 9% of unsold textiles in Europe are destroyed before ever being worn, generating millions of tonnes of unnecessary CO₂ emissions.

Warehouse filled with identical garments illustrating the problem of unsold stock destruction.


Unsold stock destruction: treating the symptom


The regulation addresses what happens after clothes remain unsold.

It does not address the question that comes before everything else:

Why are so many garments being produced that they become waste in the first place?

Overproduction remains fashion’s structural problem.

Brands continue to manufacture collections at a pace that exceeds real demand. The result is predictable: discounting, returns, excess inventory and, ultimately, disposal.

Better inventory management can reduce some waste, but it does not challenge the production model itself. As long as brands continue to rely on high volumes and constant product turnover, unsold stock will remain an inevitable consequence.

The problem is amplified by online retail, where high return rates create another layer of excess stock. Returned garments may be difficult or too costly to inspect, repair and resell, pushing companies towards disposal or lower-value solutions.

This is why the issue is not only what happens to unwanted garments at the end of their journey. It is also how many garments enter the market in the first place — and whether the fashion system is designed around genuine demand or around continuous growth.

If too many garments continue to be produced, banning their destruction changes what happens at the end of the process, but not the business model that creates the surplus.

The risk of shifting the problem


The regulation also includes exemptions, allowing destruction in justified cases such as safety concerns, damaged products or counterfeit goods.

It also requires companies to disclose the volumes of unsold goods they discard, improving transparency.

These are important safeguards, but they do not eliminate every risk.

Unsold products can still be exported, downcycled into low-value materials or redirected into opaque secondary markets. Preventing destruction is easier than preventing waste from simply changing form.

Final thoughts


The ban on unsold stock destruction is an important environmental measure. Destroying perfectly usable clothing has long been one of the fashion industry’s most indefensible practices, and banning it is long overdue.

Yet the regulation addresses what happens after overproduction has already occurred. It manages the surplus, but not the system that creates it.

The fashion industry’s environmental crisis does not begin with burning garments or disposing of unsold stock. It begins much earlier, with a business model that rewards ever-increasing production volumes, encourages rapid product turnover, and ultimately generates more clothing than the market can absorb.

In this context, the ban treats one of the industry’s most visible symptoms rather than its underlying cause. It may achieve exactly what it was designed to do, but what it was designed to do is too limited to tackle fashion’s structural environmental problem.

A truly sustainable fashion policy would also ask a more fundamental question: how much clothing do we actually need? That is where concepts such as sufficiency and degrowth become relevant — not because they advocate stopping the production of clothing, but because they challenge the assumption that producing more is always compatible with sustainability.

Until overproduction becomes part of the political conversation, Europe will continue making fashion less wasteful without necessarily making it sustainable. 

Unsold stock destruction: EU ban now in force. Why are legislators tackling the outcome instead of the cause? Read More »

The luxury dilemma: what does it mean “to do our work properly” in a broken system?

Reading Time: 5 minutes

FW26 Men’s Fashion Week: unpacking Miuccia Prada’s statement on sustainability


Men’s Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2026/27 has just wrapped up in Milan, bringing the luxury dilemma sharply into focus. Beyond the collections themselves, one statement in particular stood out — a widely shared comment by Miuccia Prada on sustainability.

In a season marked by uncertainty, many brands sought reassurance either in the past through nostalgia or in bold contemporary provocations, while reaffirming tailoring and colour as anchors of meaning. Following a runway show explicitly reflecting on the present moment, Miuccia Prada and co-designer Raf Simons spoke to the press. Sustainability inevitably entered the conversation.

Abstract image of an unrecognisable garment blurred in the background, overlaid with a barcode reading “OVERPRODUCTION”, symbolising the luxury dilemma at the heart of the fashion system.

Luxury fashion and sustainability: pragmatism versus idealism


Miuccia Prada reiterated her long-standing commitment to doing her work conscientiously and striving for excellence. She stated:

“I’m trying to get on with my work and do it properly. If we truly wanted to be sustainable, we’d have to stop everything: no cars, no clothes, no consumption at all. We must be honest and do our work to the best of our ability, bringing creativity, quality, and awareness to it.”

It is a compelling, deliberately provocative statement — one that exposes the tension between idealism and pragmatism in sustainability discourse.

A titan of the luxury fashion industry and a figure known for her intellectual and often contradictory positions, Prada draws a stark dichotomy:

  1. The pure ideal: true, absolute sustainability would require a complete halt to modern industrial life — no cars, no new clothes, no consumption.
  2. The pragmatic reality: since such a scenario is implicitly deemed impossible or unacceptable, the alternative is not withdrawal but “doing our work properly”.

The underlying message is clear: perfection becomes the enemy of improvement. Prada rejects a paralysing purity test in favour of an ethic of incremental responsibility.

The luxury dilemma and its internal contradictions


Yet this statement also reveals a deeper contradiction.

1. A defence of the luxury system
At its core, the quote functions as a defence of high-end fashion’s right to exist. Prada suggests that even the creative and qualitative apex of the industry would fail a test of absolute sustainability. The implicit argument is: if fast fashion is condemned, then so must luxury be — the overproduction model is the same.  And if that happens, society risks losing creativity, craftsmanship, culture.

2. Quality and creativity as a smokescreen
For luxury brands, “quality” (durability, materials, craftsmanship) and “creativity” (cultural and artistic value) are repeatedly invoked as ethical justifications for continued mass production. But this framing sidesteps the central issue: the business model itself.

Whether it is a €50 polyester blouse or a €5.000 nylon bag, the luxury industry still depends on:

  • Seasonal cycles, driving perpetual “newness” and the obsolescence of desire
  • Marketing-driven consumption, creating symbolic rather than utilitarian needs
  • Vast, opaque supply chains, with environmental and social impacts regardless of material quality
  • Manufactured exclusivity and scarcity, fundamentally at odds with the anti-consumption logic Prada herself references

Within this structure, creativity and quality are not neutral values — they are often the very engines of consumption.

Blurred garment with a barcode reading “OVERCONSUMPTION”, symbolising overconsumption as a consequence of the luxury dilemma in fashion. AI-generated image.

3. Intellectual honesty vs corporate reality
There is undeniable honesty in Prada’s acknowledgement that true sustainability would mean “no clothes”. It openly names the conflict at the heart of fashion. Yet the conclusion — “do our work well” — feels like an intellectual sleight of hand.

The problem shifts from systemic change (overproduction, growth imperatives, marketing pressure) to individual ethics: my work, our work. In doing so, responsibility is displaced from the corporation and its structural drivers onto personal integrity.

By articulating the critic’s most radical argument — we should stop everything — Prada positions herself as the sober realist. The critique is acknowledged, absorbed, and then dismissed as unworkable. It is a sophisticated form of containment: recognising the radical in order to defend a softened status quo.

What the luxury dilemma leaves out

  • A false binary
    Prada presents a choice between total civilisational shutdown and business-as-usual with better intentions. This erases the vast middle ground: degrowth, sufficiency, circular systems, and radical business-model innovation.
  • Denial of agency
    As creative director of a billion-euro group, Prada possesses exceptional power to experiment with new models. Retreating to “just doing my work” understates this agency. The argument might be defensible from a junior designer — far less so from one of the most influential figures in fashion.

Final thoughts


One could read the collection itself — clothes that appear worn yet are brand new — as an implicit suggestion: use what you already have. This is a ritual we always cherish at the end of a Prada show, because there is always a message that transcends the clothes. But the more pressing question remains how to build genuinely sustainable models for the fashion business.

Terms like degrowth or smaller production volumes threaten the very structures that allow luxury brands to maintain their cathedrals — architectural, symbolic, and economic. And so they remain largely unspoken.

Miuccia Prada’s statement ultimately becomes a revealing manifesto of the luxury dilemma. It is intellectually lucid about the problem, yet philosophically conservative in its solution. It mobilises the language of ethics — honesty, awareness — to justify the preservation of a system that, by its own admission, cannot exist within true planetary limits.

Focusing on “doing the work at its best” inside a broken model, even with the best intentions of creativity and quality, amounts to a form of managed dissent: it critiques the ends, but fiercely defends the means.

The luxury dilemma: what does it mean “to do our work properly” in a broken system? Read More »

Extra-EU parcel tax approved in Europe to curb ultra-fast fashion, as Italy joins the move

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Can the levy really deter low-cost purchases — or does it serve other interests?


Imagine a new charge on every low-cost fashion parcel from abroad: this is the core of the newly approved Extra-EU parcel tax. The measure represents a European policy intervention designed to make disposable clothing bear more of its real cost. At the same time, it protects local markets from what is increasingly described as unfair competition.

According to the European Commission, in 2025 alone around 4.6 billion items were imported into the EU. Each was valued at less than €150 — the equivalent of approximately 12 million parcels per day. This figure has doubled in just two years. Imports stood at 2.3 billion items in 2023 and 1.4 billion in 2022.

Italy, too, is moving in this direction. In fact, the government plans to introduce a €2 tax on each parcel arriving from outside the EU.

But can such a modest levy really curb the tide of low-cost and ultra-fast fashion purchases? And what are the deeper motivations behind this policy shift?

Europe approves extra-EU parcel tax to curb ultra-fast fashion


A €3 tax on all parcels valued below €150 and shipped from third countries has now been approved in Brussels. The measure is set to come into force on 1 July 2026 and aims to address the growing impact of low-cost e-commerce platforms – not only in fashion, but particularly visible there – such as Shein, Temu, and AliExpress.

The tax will be applied per parcel, not per item. This means that three products shipped together in a single package will incur a total charge of €3, whereas three separate parcels would be taxed €9 in total. 

The structure clearly incentivises consolidated shipping rather than discouraging consumption itself.

Extra-EU parcel tax: Italy targets low-cost imports in bid against unfair competition


Italy is preparing to introduce its own levy on shipments from outside the European Union valued under €150 (approximately $176). At the same time, the government plans to double its financial transaction tax, as Rome seeks additional revenue to fund costly budget amendments, according to official documents.

With around 330 million low-value parcels arriving in Italy each year, and accounting for the likelihood that some sellers will attempt to circumvent the new charge, the government estimates annual revenues of €245 million from the measure.

Specifically, the low-value parcel levy – fixed at €2 per shipment – is projected to raise €122.5 million next year, followed by €245 million annually in both 2027 and 2028, according to parliamentary documents cited by Reuters.

In September, the government led by Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni also projected that the overall tax burden – defined as total taxes and social contributions relative to GDP – would rise to 42.8% this year, up from 42.5% in 2024. This places Italy among the most heavily taxed economies in the developed world.

Some considerations: what are the real reasons behind this?


The extra-EU parcel tax represents Europe’s most direct challenge yet to Chinese ultra-fast fashion as a business model. However, this legislative move does not appear to be driven primarily by environmental or sustainability concerns. Rather, it functions as a form of industrial protectionism, aimed at shielding European fast-fashion producers from external competition.

This raises an uncomfortable but necessary question: if fast fashion is widely acknowledged as destructive and unsustainable, on what grounds should its European version be protected?

Ultimately, we must also ask whether a €3 or €2 levy can genuinely deter the purchase of ultra-low-cost goods. If the tax fails to alter consumer behaviour, it becomes reasonable to conclude that its true purpose is simply to redirect significant sums into national or European coffers.

And these sums are far from negligible.

Taking the 2025 estimate of 12 million parcels per day and multiplying it by €3 gives a theoretical annual revenue. This total exceeds €13 billion.

A considerable income for governments, even if consumer behaviour remains unchanged.

Extra-EU parcel tax approved in Europe to curb ultra-fast fashion, as Italy joins the move Read More »

Greenwashing: The system is designed to fail. It’s time to see clearly

Reading Time: 3 minutes

Our guide to spotting greenwashing — born from witnessing the system’s hijacking — now available in Italian


How can people tell what is truly sustainable — or confidently say: this is greenwashing?

Let’s take one example we’ve just shared: African organisations are accusing a major UN circularity project of unreliable data and a tainted process.
This isn’t just a failure; it’s a hijacking.

But how can we distinguish between genuine initiatives and those that are not?
The core conflict is no longer just about data — it’s about who gets to define circularity and sustainability.

Side-by-side comparison of  'This is Greenwashing' English book cover and 'Questo è Greenwashing' Italian edition book cover, showing the two versions of the guide to spotting false environmental claims.
Questo è greenwashing – This is Greenwashing

Greenwashing: A system designed to fail


When fast-fashion entities help set the rules for a UN process meant to regulate them, the outcome is predictable: a system designed to fail.
In other words, a system that protects overproduction and waste under the guise of sustainability.

This is greenwashing at the highest level — the green fog at its thickest — designed to confuse us into compliance while the real work of change is undermined.

And this is precisely why we wrote This is Greenwashing.

This eBook goes beyond spotting a fake “eco-friendly” label.
It’s a guide to understanding the systemic lies that corrupts projects like the UNEP’s. It equips you with tools to see through the green fog created by the very systems meant to protect us.

We wrote it because when regulation fails — or is hijacked — awareness becomes our strongest line of defence.

In a world where the credibility of global environmental governance hangs in the balance, we must equip ourselves with the power to see clearly, demand better, and stop being manipulated.

This is Greenwashing – Now available in Italian


🌍 Now available in Italian: Your guide to seeing through the green fog
We are proud to launch This Is Greenwashing in Italian.

This guide will help you:
✔ Decode the jargon and spot lies at a glance
✔ Understand the tactics used not just by brands, but by entire systems to appear “green”
✔ Arm yourself with practical knowledge to make informed choices

In a system designed to fail, knowledge isn’t just power — it’s resistance.

📘 🇮🇹 Get your Italian eBook here: books2read.com/u/mYJ8lP
📘 🇬🇧 Get your English eBook here: https://books2read.com/u/bpgxOX

📣 Please help spread the word by leaving a review — it makes all the difference.

“This is greenwashing’s greatest crime: distracting us with false solutions as the planet burns.”

Spot the lies. Demand better.

P.S. Share this with anyone who questions the ‘sustainable’ façade. It’s time we clear the green fog, together.

 🌿 Now available as an eBook — the print version will follow.

Greenwashing: The system is designed to fail. It’s time to see clearly Read More »