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Spring/Summer 22

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Selection in the digital era: pros and cons


In September and October, designers unveil their new collections for the following season. Right now, we are now curating our Spring/Summer 22 selection.

One of the most striking side effects of the pandemic is the accelerated shift toward the digital world. When it comes to brand research, this transition can yield positive outcomes.

Some brands opted for a mixed formula, physical and digital, while many others decided to present their new collections only through digital platforms. So, like it or not, that’s the offer. Obviously, fashion companies suffered significant financial losses due to the pandemic. Digital strategies have become key to recovery. Additionally, they realized how few people were actually needed to maintain an international workflow. (This loss of jobs is its own problem).

Selection through social media


We are not satisfied with the trend of discovering new brands via Instagram only. First, the communication of many brands is oriented to push the image of a woman we do not want to endorse: plastic face, doughnut lips, tons of make-up. Furthermore, it’s easy to cover up poor quality clothing in an Instagram pic.

Scrolling down, you may see so many infinite offers of clothing that seem like beautiful quality. At first sight, at least. Yet after a deeper analysis, you realize it was just a nice pic. Fast fashion brands know this trick very well.

Selection for Spring/Summer 22


However, a satisfying implication of digital fashion is that material is more accessible compared to the past. In fact, we are receiving many look books and line sheets. So that it’s easier to have an idea of what’s going on in terms of style.
Through accurate presentations and line sheets, you have the chance of knowing more about materials and fitting.

If it is true that nothing will ever change the experience of touching the fabrics, now we have the opportunity to curate a selection without travelling the world.

Though this digital integration is remarkable, finding the right balance remains essential.

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The Decline Of Luxury

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What happened to the fashion industry?


If you want to understand the events that caused the decline of luxury, we suggest you read ‘Deluxe: How luxury lost its luster’ – a book written by Dana Thomas.

You will discover how fashion from being a family-owned business became a corporate battlefield based on overproduction.
The growth of the new markets – China, Russia, and India. The explosion of counterfeiting goods and labour exploitation.
Then, the rise of fast fashion, internet retailers and the development of a fast-paced globalised system. How luxury products abandoned exclusivity and shifted to the masses. Creating the so-called democratic luxury–which basically is nonsense. Indeed, it shows how far marketing rhetoric can go, playing with words to manipulate people.

The book is a brilliant analysis of the field, investigating the dynamics that led to an auto-implosion of a system. Also, it allowed us to relive the last 30 years of fashion. We assisted many of those events – not by accepting them but by shifting more and more towards niche designers. Finding a kind of refuge in a tiny universe. A thoughtful research in dissonance with the average fashion consumer.

Though we agree with almost everything in Dana Thomas’ book, we do not align with the devotion to some brands. We are afraid they have lost their luster too, so far. Except for Hermes and Cadolle.

Indeed, looking back at the decline of luxury, it has become increasingly difficult to find meaning in fashion maisons. They seem like smoke and mirrors set up to sell perfumes, make-up and bags. Abundantly offered to masses that have no perception beyond the logo and the illusion of being considered rich.

If you still love fashion, you go beyond that fake facade and search for designers who dared to undertake an independent path, expressing an authentic creative vision. In this panorama, the ability to select the right clothing – from an aesthetic and ethical viewpoint – changes the game.

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Product Placement vs Consumer Awareness

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Navigating the fine line between influence and informed choices


Among various methods corporations use to keep women hooked to their brands, product placement is on top. Yes, corporations. That’s what luxury conglomerates are. And it gives the pulse on their work.

During the 80s, Giorgio Armani was the first who started dressing Hollywood stars in order to sell to the American middle-class. In a perspective of massive overproduction and an ever-growing economy, perhaps that strategy made sense.
By the way, Armani, followed by all the other designers right away, started giving outfits for free to the stars, and women – part of the so-called middle class – promptly bought them.

Now the economy is not in good shape, and the middle class has been swiped away. Most importantly, we opened our eyes, so we are tired of being treated as fishing lures. Therefore we find some specific marketing techniques obsolete, if not meaningless.

The logic behind celebrities marketing


What’s the point of stars wearing luxury designer’s clothes on the red carpets when it’s known they don’t pay for the clothes?
Does it still make sense?

In fact, what makes it sound absurd is that celebrities can afford to pay, but they don’t. In other words, those who can afford clothes don’t buy them, while those who can’t are expected to.

There’s no logic in this anymore. What if celebrities purchase their outfits and designers donate the proceeds to charity?

However, we should also take a closer look at those captivated by ‘the rich Milanese’ flaunting her outfits on social media—women who promptly buy. Indeed, we die a little inside witnessing this lack of self-esteem. An evolution of product placement that exposes a complete absence of consumer awareness.

Since we weren’t all born with good taste, looking for guidance is the right way to avoid weird outfits. But asking for advice is different from imitating someone else’s style.

Marketing has always targeted women because, traditionally, they are considered fragile and easy to influence or manipulate. And the sad thing is that we allowed them to do so.

Let’s evolve now.

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Not For All – Arrogance Or Honesty?

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The point on exclusivity and unconventional work


When we say that our work is not for all, it shouldn’t be seen as a sign of arrogance. On the contrary, if you ponder a little on the true meaning, you will perceive that it denotes a genuine and realistic approach.

Can we truly please everyone? No, obviously, we cannot.
To illustrate, if you usually buy fast fashion, you would never check out our selection. If you like showing off logo-emblazoned garments, we are not for you. If you are a passive consumer, perhaps you will not interact with us.

Pleasing everyone is a naive goal, and though it’s impossible to accomplish, the downside of trying is that it generates a bazaar of elements. A fragmented and undefined proposal where everything is possible, but nothing stands out. Because there is no soul. No clarity. The truth is that you have to be honest to say that what you do is not for everyone.

Over about twenty-five years in the fashion field, we saw the rise and fall of the system. A fast-paced environment in which profit and marketing took over creativity. And ultimately, it led to the exploitation of people and the planet. This system now needs a new air, something more, beyond that glossy facade. Creative visions supported by a conscious approach.

We are a drop in the ocean, but we are trying to bring a different perspective, providing a deeper meaning to fashion, and rediscovering its true beauty. And therefore evolve to the next level.

Our selection and thoughts are for those who appreciate the value of unconventional work that falls outside an imposed system. We aim to interact with individuals who are not passive consumers but active thinkers. Those who want to be informed because they are not stuck in the past or constrained by pointless rules but constantly evolving.

Not for all–but it might be for you.

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The (Ignorant) Logo

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What we Witness today in the world of branding and fashion


What we witness today is the ignorant logo. You may think that a logo has something to do with style. We do not totally agree.

A recognizable logo, displayed not on the inside or reverse but visibly shown on the outer surfaces of clothing, handbags, shoes, or small leather goods, is how fashion maisons can sustain their astronomical costs.

To this end, beauty products further amplify this. In fact, frequently people associate a designer’s name with their perfume and rather than their original creations.

The return of the logo


But why has the exposed logo made such a comeback to fashion?

First, logos are easily recognised. Furthermore, people buy logoed items because they identify with them. In fact, these products offer a status symbol more than an element of style.
Even if that status is fake – and rude when too much logoed – people like to dream.

The fashion industry was in crisis. Undoubtedly, logo-emblazoned pieces are the easiest way to sell more. Indeed, they are simpler to market.

Also, fashion in the era of social media has changed a lot. Specifically, Instagram played a huge role in this. In order to be visible, products must be more “instagrammable.” In fact, a logo provides instant visual recognition.

Moreover, during the social media era, the role of creative directors has overtaken that of designers. These figures don’t create their work by elaborating on their design skills. But they put into the mixer whatever they find.

This playground has encouraged the proliferation and growth of a shallow environment, which gave life to a sterile visual-centred culture. And, as a result, we see an ignorant fashion culture emerging. The fashion of the ignorant logo.

True style doesn’t rely on logos. It is the expression of an innate gift. Of course, in case you do not possess it, you can train and improve.
But one thing is certain: if you are self-confident and elegant, you don’t need to impress by falunting a logo!

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