suite123 milano

Fashion Week Frontier

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Which medium will survive?


General Fashion Week Playbook

Over several decades, the fashion industry has evolved in so many ways. The female silhouette has transformed from lung crushing corsets and 19th-century victorian buns to genderless streetstyle and avant-garde designs.

Brands have progressed in their method of garment innovation. Yet since the first catwalk show by Lady Duff Gordon in 1901, runway innovations have only advanced in the context of event design. Designers and brands had decided to keep the mediums of runway shows and video promotions completely separate.

Runway shows are so 2019

If we normalize sustainability, why is the mass waste of a fashion show not considered as a drastic factor taking part in unnecessary waste?

After seeing most daily activities turn to the remote medium, why is a runway show one of the only things left behind for deep discussion and debate?
Just because something from the past was so universally enjoyed, doesn’t mean it’s required to remain the same and be the exception to a painfully corrupted system.

The new Fashion Week medium

Fashion premiered through short films

As a matter of fact, we are in a society where creative innovation is crucial. And not only for progressing as a population but for general survival. Aside from the world of technology, the fashion industry hosts some of the most innovative and open-minded thinkers of our lifetime. There is no satisfaction in sedimentary and placid thinking. Consistent change is expected and embraced. So why have we suddenly decided to halt our experiments here? At a time when it is most vital for the progression of an industry.

We are now entering a new industry era of fashion trailers. Short films, produced to showcase a designer’s newest collection in a way that emphasizes the brand image and what future they’d like the consumer to expect.

Of course, many are hesitant about this idea. This era will be the test that determines who are the true lovers of design and creativity. And who participate just to gain social media followers and views.

✍️ A piece written by Gavriel Ewart. An American girl studying fashion and communication at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

Fashion Week Frontier Read More »

Milano Fashion Week 2022

Reading Time: 3 minutes

The return of physical events and a strange virus affecting the industry


Milano Fashion Week 2022, marking the return of physical events, was anticipated to symbolise the relaunch of both the economy and creativity. But did it live up to expectations? And what were the key themes that emerged?

Fall/Winter 2022 trends

90’s
The nineties were the common thread seen almost everywhere. Indeed, as a reflection of society, fashion—like history—tends to repeat itself.

“Balenciagitis”
While the pandemic seems under control, another highly infectious virus spread among designers. This virus is called “Balenciagitis.” When designers are affected, they create tons of exaggerated shoulders and extremized silhouettes–of which you do not understand the point.

Raf Simons has been strongly infected, indeed you could see it in the Prada fashion show. Since the co-designing collaboration has started, Prada stopped dictating trends, as always did, and now follows the others.
However, even Dolce and Gabbana were infected, we hope someone will soon find a cure for it.

Co-branding
Collab with sports brands, or flea market outfits with the plus of co-branding. That’s what Gucci did with Adidas. Right, nothing new in the end. Just branding.

Milano Fashion Week 22


Genderless
In January 2020, Stefano Pilati presented at Pitti his independent brand, Random Identities. The collection showed a few tailored pieces in a genderless key. About two years later, the creatives who create when something is already created, discovered the trend. Hey, all brands went genderless!

Sustainability
Round tables, talks, shows. Every single brand is sustainable! And the more they talk about it, the less they offer value. Moreover, “sustainable designers” and those who have hands in that industry offer something unattainable. Just smoke in the eye, generating a big misleading business.

Inclusion
What is the line between inclusivity and bad taste? This point is not clear to us. In fact, in many shows which focused on this topic, bad taste stood out.

Milano Fashion Week 2022 favourites


Our favourites
Jil Sander was one of the few fashion shows we enjoyed. We didn’t see much of Jil Sander in that, but, at least, we saw beautiful, well-made clothes developed in a coherent collection.

Bottega Veneta: iconic accessories, clean lines clothing with a high-end impact. Beautiful design, but no logo shown, no sensationalism. The essence of modern elegance and luxury. Bravo, Matthieu Blazy!

Milano Fashion Week 2022 revelaed that it is not a favorable time for creativity or the economy. And so, a cultured audience has to dig a lot to find value. Because worthwhile designers, rather than being part of that inconsistent game, avoid communicating at all.

Milano Fashion Week 2022 Read More »

It’s war! The World We Don’t Want

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Can fashion stay relevant during a war next to our door?


It’s war! Yesterday we awoke with a clear feeling of insanity and disgust as the first news we heard in the morning told us that Russia declared war on Ukraine.

From the end of the Cold War to the onset of a real war


The news sent us back to the past. It felt like a flashback to 1985, the year Sting released the song Russians. We were teenagers then, and music was the center of our universe. That song had a profound impact on us. By the way, the world was nearing the end of the Cold War.

Russians lyrics came to our mind evoking sad thoughts:
“In Europe and America, there’s a growing feeling of hysteria
Conditioned to respond to all the threats
In the rhetorical speeches of the Soviets.”

Nothing has changed over time, nor can we say humanity has ever learned anything from past events—most of which were man-made disgraces. In fact, humans keep on repeating the same mistakes over and over again, and perhaps we like it too.

war


The backdrop of Milano Fashion Week


Against this backdrop of horrible events, we should talk about Milano Fashion Week, and to be honest, it doesn’t come so easy.

The first impression we have is that the language has become cloying. All the wording, from sustainability to diversity, from inclusion to genderless, flooded the industry and flattened the proposals. These empty claims seem to depict a fake universe detached from reality. In the end, brands follow one another without having a real character that makes them unique.

“Balenciagitis” is a kind of contagious phenomenon which has affected many brands, depriving them of their core identity.

The mood so far seemed very 90’s: tank tops, layering, see-through dresses.

However, Putin’s frightening words and actions today resonate with us more than fashion does. So, we turn to Sting’s song once again:

“There’s no such thing as a winnable war
It’s a lie we don’t believe anymore!”

It’s war! The World We Don’t Want Read More »

The Military Bag by ZUCCa

Reading Time: 2 minutes

A functional and cool timeless accessory


Among the new arrivals, today we recommend The Military Bag by ZUCCa, Japan.
Big size. (Yes, it means there is also a smaller version which we will show you later).

Although it’s part of the Spring/Summer ’22 ZUCCa collection, this is undoubtedly a seasonless item. You can easily incorporate this functional bag into your style year-round.

Discover The Military Bag by ZUCCa


About the design
The design point of this cool military bag is a large three-dimensional pocket with a vertical zip fastening. Also, cotton fabric is sandwiched by nylon fabric and double stitched. And the puckering stitching highlights the military image.
The typical ZUCCa item specification tag is stitched on the outer maxi pocket.

The Military Bag - ZUCCa
The Military Bag – ZUCCa

With a top zip fastening, this shoulder bag has two top handles too, meaning you can carry it by hand or crossbody. In fact, the shoulder strap is adjustable and removable. In addition to the pocket on the outside, there are two more pockets on the inside.

A4 size can be stored inside, making it ideal for daily use such as commuting to work or school. However, it is perfect when you travel.

About the colour
Black – or, the goes with everything colour. This accessory is easy to match, indeed doesn’t require any particular style advice.

Bag size: W31 cm X H30 cm X D5 cm

About the material
100% nylon

This nylon bag embodies fashion values such as timeless – seasonless – genderless – our philosophy #formodernhumans
These principles define this versatile day bag. Practical, functional, and undeniably cool, it’s a bag you’ll never tire of carrying.

We’ll be happy to assist you and reply to your questions or requests. So, if you may need any further information, feel free to drop us an email, DM on Instagram or WhatsApp!

The Military Bag by ZUCCa Read More »

Mass Production or “Mess” Production?

Reading Time: 2 minutes

Quality vs quantity: exploring the impact of mass production on fashion and society


Mass production is an ongoing global phenomenon. Fast-Fashion, is no doubt, all about mass-production as you think.

Yet, even in the luxury world, high brands nowadays are attempting to produce more than ever to reach a broader range of consumers. Why? Because this is how they maximize profit. Speed and cost are everything they now prioritize. Indeed it’s a matter of speed and greed.

Charles Frederic Worth, an English fashion designer in the early 20th century, is today known as the father of Haute Couture.
His dresses required some fifteen yards of fabric and could take three to four hundred hours to embroider. For one client, the dress even needed a team of thirty seamstresses working full time because everything was entirely made by hand.

Yes, the handmade takes time, but do we still find or do the luxury brands still even care about such craftsman values?

Where are the values which we used to appreciate in the past?

Mass or “mess” production?


Luxury brands are now mass-producing their products to market mass consumers. Targeting a larger audience means bigger profits, they believe. However, their mass production has undervalued the noble past of fashion and diminished the true aesthetic.

They care only about profit, no longer the values.
It is such a “mess production” – in fact.

Resizing and reducing, not maximising


By having in mind the idea of Couture as a meaningful business model, brands should produce less and target a smaller audience. Therefore, selecting the right individuals who are capable of appreciating these values.

A rigid selection is what the brands need to do. They need to select whom to create rather than create for everyone.

“Less” is such a big keyword for luxury brands today, but there is something that should be “more”.
Time. More time for quality.
Because quality takes a lot of effort, patience and creativity. And so more time is a must.
Yet, that is the only way the true values of fashion can be revived.

✍️ A piece written by Kotono Sakai, a Japanese girl studying history and fashion at Cattolica University in Milan and interning for suite123

Mass Production or “Mess” Production? Read More »