The diffusion of bad taste

Why elegance is dead

Bad taste has never been so dominant. You see it in fashion magazines, street style outfits, events, workplaces, everywhere.
People cannot dress properly. And dressing up depending on the occasion does not seem to be a rule, so the dress code is dead along with elegance. Definitely, we can say that bad taste has caught on. Yet, they call it fashion!

However, good taste is not limited to luxury clothes. Indeed, we see many rich people wearing expensive clothes, but without a trace of elegance. Just scroll through your social media, and the show is served with disarmingly gross images. But the same tacky style dominates television too. There are no icons of elegance anymore.

About elegance

We came across this interview Stefano Pilati released to Vice in 2012. Still very current and worth reading. We quote him:

“My idea of elegance—and this refers to women as well as men—is that someone is elegant when he or she shows a good knowledge of what fits them, where you can find naturalness and self-esteem. Not showing off. Elegance is the idea of showing an optimistic depiction of oneself and to lose oneself in the frivolity of style and fashion. Nowadays nobody gives a shit about being elegant, or chic. If you’re doing it, you’re doing it for yourself, because it’s your way of being. When you’re not thinking, “This is fashion,” and you’re not buying clothes to create statements, you’re on the right path. If fashion goes low waisted and you’re fat bottomed, well, forget it; don’t put slim-fitting jeans on. They’re going to look awful on you. You should dress in black; it would be better.

But seriously, it’s not easy to find elegant women. There are a few, the majority of whom are old—and there are one or maybe two in the world who created a new style when they were young. Today when I go to New York and survey art and fashion, I see smart women and the level is high. But there’s a difference between this and saying a woman is elegant.”

Clearly, the downfall started a while ago, it’s just more evident now.

The bad taste era – What went wrong?

The diffusion of bad taste is a phenomenon strictly connected to the decadence of our society. To put it another way, it is a cultural issue. In fact, in a context of growing uncertainty, we lost the points of reference. Many rules and roles collapsed. We seemed to have acquired certain freedom, which unfortunately reveals more about rudeness and lack of manners than freedom of expression.

If elegance is a dying breed, the problem is rooted in our society.
Culture is at the heart of the issue, but if elegance is dead and bad taste takes its place, it signifies our culture is in a poor state.

We should rediscover a sense of limit and dignity.

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Milano Fashion Week 22

The return of physical events

Milano Fashion Week 22, with the return of physical events, was supposed to represent the relaunch for the economy and creativity.

Was it so? And what were the main topics?

Fall/Winter 22 trends

The nineties were the common thread seen almost everywhere.
As an expression of society, fashion – like history – repeats itself.

While the pandemic seems under control, another highly infectious virus spread among designers.
This virus is called “Balenciagitis.” When designers are affected, they create tons of exaggerated shoulders and extremized silhouettes. Of which you do not understand the point.

Raf Simons has been strongly infected, indeed you could see it in the Prada fashion show. Since the co-designing collaboration has started, Prada stopped dictating trends, as always did, and now follows the others.

Even Dolce and Gabbana were infected, we hope someone will soon find a cure for it.

Collab with sports brands. Or flea market outfits with the plus of co-branding, that’s what Gucci did with Adidas. Right, nothing new in the end. Just branding.

Milano Fashion Week 22

In January 2020, Stefano Pilati presented at Pitti his independent brand, Random Identities. The collection showed a few tailored pieces in a genderless key. About two years later, the creatives who create when something is already created, discovered the trend. Hey, all brands went genderless!

Round tables, talks, shows. Every single brand is sustainable! And the more they talk about it, the less they offer value. Moreover, “sustainable designers” and those who have hands in that industry offer something unattainable. Just smoke in the eye, generating a big misleading business.

What is the line between inclusivity and bad taste? This point is not clear to us. In fact, in many shows which focused on this topic, bad taste stood out.

Milano Fashion Week 22 most-liked

Our favourites
Jil Sander was one of the few fashion shows we enjoyed. We didn’t see much of Jil Sander in that, but, at least, we saw beautiful, well-made clothes developed in a coherent collection.

Bottega Veneta: iconic accessories, clean lines clothing with a high-end impact. Beautiful design, but no logo shown, no sensationalism. The essence of modern elegance and luxury. Bravo, Matthieu Blazy!

This is not a good time for creativity nor the economy. And so, a cultured audience has to dig a lot to find value. Because worthwhile designers, rather than being part of that inconsistent game, avoid communicating at all.

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