standwithukraine

Violent responses in modern society

Where do we want to go next?

Violence is served to us continuously. It happens in movies as well as in tv shows. But sadly, it happens in reality too. Even if we focus on our work, the current exceptional facts are inescapable. Anyway, the war is turning the fashion industry upside-down.

Violence is the response we see on a daily basis and to any act. And it is curious to see how people condemn it or accept it depending on the case.

How does a violent response happen?

Someone says something. Someone does not respect an agreement, or someone crushes your foot. The list could be longer because we can find endless occasions that would trigger a mindless reaction. However, by crushing the foot, that someone hits someone else’s nerves. And what does this someone else do? This someone else reacts with violence. A violent reaction can go from slapping someone in the face to invading a country, just to name two possibilities.

Perhaps both examples may sound familiar. Whatever may have caused the violent response – “You assault somebody, you get escorted out the building, and that’s it.” So stated the Oscar co-host, Wanda Sykes, for instance.

Following the same logic: you assault another country, you get invited to stop! Because whatever caused your reaction, borders cannot be violated. Of course, we weigh both sides considering the wider picture, but only one side is the aggressor. Therefore, to remain equidistant means being on the side of those using violence.

Violence is a human tendency, but it’s a brutal response

Violence is a human tendency, but it is a brutal response and must always be condemned. Because when you react violently, you’ve already lost. Even if provoked by someone, it shouldn’t be accepted.

As a matter of fact, we get accustomed to violence more easily than to respect or kindness. It’s time to understand that this attitude is not constructive.

Violence is never the answer. Let’s make it clear. Let’s make them stop.

#STANDWITHUKRAINE

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Beyond our control?

Natural threats and human behaviour

Last Wednesday night, a 7.4 magnitude earthquake hit eastern Japan, the same region devastated by a powerful quake 11 years ago.

And so my friend, who lives in Fukushima prefecture, texted me: “the trauma comes back again.”

In 2011, a tsunami up to about 40 meters high arrived at the coast within 30 minutes, destroying entire cities, and damaging nuclear power plants in Fukushima.

It was the most severe earthquake in recorded history. I was only 11 years old, but still, I vividly remember that day.
So last week, the same tragic pictures just crossed my mind.
I was terrified. I was scared of what I was watching on television. And I wish it was just under the scope of human control.

100% Man-Made

Boyarovskaya released their digital show for Fall/Winter 2022-2023 during the Paris fashion week.

In the end, it says:

“Nature cannot be controlled, but war can.”

Indeed the video was filmed in a town destroyed by a great earthquake.

A natural disaster is a catastrophe, yet we need to live with it. It kills thousands of people indiscriminately. The power of nature is frightening, intimidating, and out of control.

But what about the war?

Leading to actions

Fashion as a means of communication to send a powerful message

The simple words by Boyarovskaya are straightforward enough for the world today. But they leave such a strong message to all of us.

What we are now watching on television is a 100% man-made tragedy. Something we did not want.

With great respect, they chose to include their message in their digital show. It touches us, makes us think, and leads us to actions.

Only 4 minutes. No words spoken, but it tells so much about what we need to do in a very powerful, yet touching way.

Again, “Nature cannot be controlled, but war can.”
This is the word we need to live up with.


#STANDWITHUKRAINE

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A piece written by Kotono Sakai, a Japanese girl studying history and fashion at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

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Paris Fashion Week 22

Fashion as a means of protest

Paris Fashion Week 22 is over, and even there, the heartbeats felt in the past weren’t beating that much. The atmosphere was cooled down. Designing a collection during the pandemic for brands that have to grind a lot of money wasn’t the ideal ground.
Furthermore, showing during a war wiped out fashion relevance.

For sure, the war in Ukraine made us wonder what’s the sense in what we do.

Fall/Winter 22 Pret-a-porter

The purpose was to use every single voice, runway, or platform to protest. Even though we have to keep up with our work, we cannot stay silent in front of Ukraine’s tragedy. And so, we really appreciated all the designers who took a stand and raised their voices in support of Ukraine.

As in Milano, the ’90s were leading in Paris too: the white tank top, the slip dress, transparencies, crop-tops were everywhere. Also, Balenciagitis infected all designers in Paris too. In short, it was all about big shoulders.

Paris Fashion Week 22: some random tiny notes

Dior: a futuristic approach mixed with the past generated a far-fetched confusion.

Saint Laurant: this time is yes! Anthony Vaccarello made a very elegant collection respecting the maison’s heritage. The final tuxedos outfits were gorgeous!

Dries Van Noten: the video presentation looked like a commercial to launch his cosmetic line. Time to monetize!

Balmain: Olivier Rousteing is a good designer, but the show was too futuristic. Armours can protect you from haters but will never give you the elegance of a blazer.

Chloé: you can cook without salt, but the food has no taste. We saw some of the classics remixed with well-known marketing trends. However, the collection was insipid, and the beauty created by Natacha Ramsey-Levi vanished.

Uma Wang: a modern and beautiful collection shown through an impactful video.

Issey Miyake: one of the best digital presentations, “sow it and let it grow”, was the message. Indeed, the video was the story of growth and re-birth, which showed the cycle of nature through clothing.

Yohji Yamamoto: can you renovate while being faithful to your style? Only a master like him can do it, and his work is like poetry for fashion. The way he tailored denim was unique.

image of Paris - tour Eiffel in support of Ukraine


Boyarovskaya: impactful and chilling video. The Belarusian and Ukrainian duo sends a heartbreaking message.

Ann Demeulemeester: still white sneakers, for real? And weren’t all models wearing the same outfit again this season?

Balenciaga: Gvasalia’s background voice was chilling. His obsession for the East-European refugee outfits was clear so far, but his misshapen imagery never felt so real and angsty.

Valentino: PP Piccioli’s words, before the show, were everything: “we see you, we feel you”. A whole collection in PP Pink and some black. The message was strong, but the choice limited the beauty we used to see at Valentino shows. And the pre-show seemed like a commercial for Spiderman.

Vuitton: Ghesquière too got Balenciagitis! But we loved the tie outfits.

Chanel: a very wearable and balanced tweed story. No headshots.

Miu Miu: from preppy to biker style, call them winter outfits if you live in California! Panties peaking through the waistline recalled the first Dolce&Gabbana. Ok for the coats, jackets and column dresses. The rest, too mini, too cropped.

Paris Fashion Week 22
Final thoughts

Unfortunately, the return of the runways signalled the re-awakening of the collateral circus. However, let’s debunk a myth:
Who said video presentations aren’t a valuable means to introduce a collection? Don’t say it again, please.

And above all, one point emerged: activism through fashion is a thoughtful way to bring back a sense of purpose in our work.

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