milanodesignweek

Milano Design Week, Fashion & Greenwashing

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Exploring Tangible Contrasts and Ethical Dilemmas in Contemporary Events

As the Milano Design Week concluded, we reflected on tangible distinctions with Fashion Week and delved into the pros and cons of the greenwashing effect evident in contemporary events.

The Milano Design Week is an annual event which serves as a platform for showcasing furniture, objects, creativity and ideas. This season’s theme, “Materia Natura” (matter nature), set the stage for contemplating the importance of environmental sustainability in the creative and design process. Also, running in parallel with the official “Salone del Mobile,” the Fuorisalone has experienced significant growth. As a result, every corner of the city boasted its own installations and events.

Blessed with beautiful sunny days, we immersed ourselves in numerous installations, many intertwined with fashion brands, just without the please-look-at-me foolishness. But a couple of reflections began to crystallise in our minds.

Milano Design Week, Fashion & Greenwashing
Milano Design Week – “Il mare dove non si tocca” by Antonio Marras

Milano Design Week & Greenwashing

The cons:
1 – The emphasis on sustainability often appeared to be mere greenwashing, given the excessive expenditure of money and resources without tangible environmental benefits. On the contrary, waste seemed clear.
2 – Some (fashion) brands participated simply to secure a spot on the list rather than with genuine needs. Indeed, this sentiment was palpable when the quality of the installation was just a way to invite people to stop by. Even among those who collaborated on a co-marketing initiative, the focus seemed to be just the marketing strategy.

Milano Design Week vs Fashion Week

The pros:
1 – In contrast to Milano Fashion Week, Design Week is more inclusive and open to anyone. And the atmosphere is way more enjoyable.
2 – The staff responsible for welcoming attendees and ensuring security exhibit a notably kinder attitude. Since Ro is a wheelchair user, we received acts of kindness during Design Week that we were not accustomed to compared to our experiences during Fashion Week.
3 – No fashion carnival, meaning no subjects begging for attention.

suite123 staff- Milano Design Week – “Il mare dove non si tocca” by Antonio Marras

However, we loved “Il mare dove non si tocca” (In the deep sea) by Antonio Marras. Upon entering the enchanting NonostanteMarras space, we encountered a temporary bar in the inner courtyard. Unfortunately, the arrangement of plants and tables left little room for a wheelchair to pass through. Witnessing our attempt, Antonio Marras jumped up and asked people to clear a path for us. Moreover, he kindly offered assistance if we wished to explore the basement area, where he showed his ceramics and a marvellous marine set-up for the restaurant area in collaboration with the Rana family. Also, we met the beautiful Antonella Rana, Global Image and Communication Director of Pastificio Rana.
Antonio Marras’ caring attitude surprised us. Such unconventional behaviour for the fashion industry standards!

The Milano Design Week concluded amidst fusions with fashion and a deluge of greenwashing. Specifically, design wins over fashion for accessibility and courtesy, but sustainability sounds too much like greenwashing. In contrast, let’s shape events where creativity harmonizes with sustainability, inspiring and innovating without compromising our planet.

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Seeking cheerfulness

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Milano Design Week, Fuorisalone & Brazil in Milan

Cheerfulness was the topic some of the installations explored for the Fuorisalone. But you could feel a lively atmosphere throughout the town during Milan Design Week.

In fact, the need for cheerfulness seems a necessity in current times. After the pandemic, the war, the energy crisis, and waste overgrowth, uncertainty is the new normal. Of course, this state of permacrisis brings a constant struggle. So we need beauty to elevate our moods and soothe our souls.
And in search of beauty, we visited the Milano Design Week with Thami, our little niece and staff member, and some friends.

Fuorisalone: Alcova

We enjoyed Alcova at “Ex-Macello”, where 90 designers, companies and institutions featured their projects, exploring a different and complementary direction of contemporary design practice.

Cheerfulness: Brazil in Milano

Then we went to Università Statale, where the INTERNI Design Re-evolution project took place. Among many other colourful or nature-inspired installations, there was a whole corner featuring Brazilian designers. “The space is meant to be a celebration of the harmony between nature and architecture, combining natural and technological elements in a project that explores new design possibilities through Brazilian natural rocks.”

Also, we visited Rossana Orlandi. The gallery was full of amazing design objects and exquisite furniture elements. There, we entered a tiny multicoloured room which reflected a vibrant energy. Named “Everyday Paradise”, it was a source of bright colours featuring flowers, birds, and people’s portraits, a joy for the eyes.

Cheerfulness
“Everyday Paradise”: arts & crafts from Alagoas, Brazil

Here, we met the curator, Lili Tedde, who developed this project in collaboration with Lidewij Edelkoort. The project, Lili Tedde explained, promoted artists from the Alagoas region, Brazil, who made by hand all the arts & crafts by using different techniques: painting, sculpting, carving, and embroidery. Since Thami has Brazilian origins, they exchanged a little chat in Portuguese. But Thami didn’t expect it, and we saw her feet turning inwards with her cheeks reddened. By the way, the set-up was energising and mood-boosting!

Needless to say, sustainability slogans were everywhere! Most of them pointless. Did companies consider the impact of the enormous structures? Materials, transport? And what will they do after dismantling them?

Eventually, we appreciated “Everyday Paradise”, the message that tiny room promoted: positivity expressed through arts and crafts. Indeed, rooted in Brazilian culture, cheerfulness brings a positive attitude towards life. And that beautiful art collection was like a breath of fresh air. Beauty will save us!

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The language of design

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Milano Design Week 23: between fashion and design

Milano Design Week offers the opportunity to reflect on the language of design, though we hope it won’t be another chance to spread more sustainability fluff. By the way, Milano seems to be involved in design more than fashion. In fact, the town is full of events, and the atmosphere is lively and engaging.

Design: clothing & objects

Clothes and objects we use daily make up a language – the language of design. Therefore, fashion reflects contemporary culture and tells our story. In other words, fashion is culture. And so is design, of course.
But while design kept a high-level positioning, fashion has lost its allure. From top brands to fast fashion, the industry identifies with a disposable culture or transient trends that lead to compulsive consumption. Now, the image of fashion is cheap, and the industry itself has undermined it. So, the mixture with design adds that patina of class, enhancing fashion portrayal.

However, the modern language of design is all about sustainability. But, we hear catchphrases which are empty claims. Their goal is marketing, selling more. And since the topic is popular, many people jump on the bandwagon in order to have the possibility to reach a wider audience.

Back to the core: the language of design

Now back to the core: the language of design.
What matters to us? Good design with an ethical approach. Certainly, people should be active thinkers and not just consumers. But designers must do their job. Creating original pieces, artisanal rather than standardised mass products. Good design means caring about the materials, workings, production chain, and people – understanding the impact on the planet. It means caring about the whole creative and productive process.

Sustainable design, recycling, and upcycling – as part of a circular economy, are designer’s work. So, do that!

In the end, the dialogue between fashion and design implies shared values. But the outcome of this reciprocal contamination must bring a tangible change, not empty slogans. The planet needs action!

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