luxury brands

The Luxury Shame: A Growing Sentiment

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

How the perception of luxury is evolving in a changing world


“Luxury shame” has emerged as one of the most pressing realities highlighted in the latest Altagamma Observatory 2024. It represents a shift towards avoiding ostentation, favouring discretion, and supporting local products.

Take China, for example, where government policies have actively discouraged conspicuous displays of wealth. In times of crisis, the Chinese government seeks to shield the younger generation from materialism by curbing excessive consumption and promoting the purchase of domestic goods. However, this sentiment extends beyond China, casting ripples that impact global luxury brands.

What does ‘luxury shame’ means?


But what exactly is luxury shame? It refers to a behavioural trend among affluent individuals, particularly those in the upper-middle class, who feel uncomfortable displaying their wealth publicly. They fear social judgement, or worse, being vilified by those less fortunate.

We have long questioned the decline of luxury brands. Their strategy of inflating prices while compromising on quality is increasingly glaring. Mass-produced goods, no matter how expensive, fail to embody true luxury. True luxury is not about price tags; it is about craftsmanship, rarity, and authenticity—qualities many so-called luxury products seem to lack today.

So, more in detail, what is luxury? As Coco Chanel aptly stated: “Some people think luxury is the opposite of poverty. It is not. It is the opposite of vulgarity.”

Since the advent of social media, we have been inundated with images flaunting luxury. Yet, in this deluge, vulgarity has flourished. The pervasive portrayal of luxury is often exaggerated, inauthentic, and gaudy, eroding the essence of elegance. As contemporary luxury has expanded, true elegance seems to have vanished entirely.

Conclusion


In these times of instability and perma-crisis, luxury shame has become a powerful counterforce, with ostentatious displays of wealth increasingly condemned as vulgar and inappropriate. Could this herald a transformation, purging social media of its garish excess?
While a complete reset may be unlikely, it may ignite a much-needed shift towards a more thoughtful, refined, and genuinely elegant direction.

The Luxury Shame: A Growing Sentiment Read More »

Isn’t the Relentless Game of Musical Chairs Fueling Fashion’s Inconsistency?

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

Questioning the strategy behind the constant change of creative directors


A while back, we wrote a post about creative directors and the relentless game of musical chairs—a situation that has become increasingly common. Now, the topic has resurfaced abruptly across several fashion brands. As they hop from chair to chair, is it about power, visibility, or something else?

Last week, breaking news revealed significant shifts at the helm of major brands. Specifically, Galliano has departed from Margiela with no news yet of his next destination. Matthieu Blazy left Bottega Veneta for Chanel, while Louise Trotter departed Carven to join Bottega Veneta—finally, a woman at the forefront. Moreover, rumours are circulating about Jonathan Anderson preparing for a new role.

These frequent changes evoke the game of musical chairs: they provide plenty to talk about but often leave people perplexed. Yet, this appears to be the prevailing strategy of luxury fashion brands, with designers seemingly changing every few years.

What is the strategy behind the relentless game of musical chairs?


But what is the strategy behind these moves? Is it simply a way to stay in the spotlight, dominate conversations, and remain relevant? Are brands confident that luxury shoppers prefer fleeting buzz over meaningful products that embody the values of a specific brand—products of which there is almost no trace?

Many creative directors show little to no respect for the heritage and DNA of the brands they represent. Meanwhile, scepticism towards the concept of luxury continues to grow, even because luxury products do not keep their promise. Do they not realise that this constant game of musical chairs risks further damaging the image of luxury itself?

Conclusion


This excessive shuffling has significant consequences: brands lose identity and consistency, while consumer trust erodes. The original design codes and unique DNA that once defined each maison become blurred, leaving the brands looking increasingly alike. Yet, in an industry dominated by oversized egos, appointing a new creative director seems to be the ultimate goal for luxury brands—even at the cost of trust and respect.

In conclusion, this constant turnover appears to be the prevailing strategy for luxury maisons—something consumers will need to get used to. But is this revolving door truly beneficial for the brands? Or is the relentless game of musical chairs only fuelling fashion’s inconsistency?

Isn’t the Relentless Game of Musical Chairs Fueling Fashion’s Inconsistency? Read More »

The Luxury Brands

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Unravelling the psychological effects on consumers


Luxury brands hold a unique allure that extends beyond the possession of high-end products. These brands are not just about material possessions. In fact, they are about status, identity, and the dance between desire and fulfilment. So, I intrigue you to explore the complex interplay of emotions, perceptions, and societal influences that shape our relationship with luxury products.

The symbolism of status


Luxury brands often serve as symbols of social status and wealth. Indeed, a designer handbag, a luxury car, or a unique timepiece can elevate an individual’s perceived status in society. Psychologically, this association with prestige triggers a sense of accomplishment and reinforces one’s social identity. So, the external display of luxury items becomes a visual cue to others, communicating success and affluence.

But is it gold all that glitters?
It’s crucial to acknowledge that the status associated with luxury items is often a construct and may not necessarily reflect true personal achievements. Specifically, wealth’s display through luxury possessions might be more about perceived status than authentic accomplishments. This can contribute to a sense of superficiality in pursuing social recognition.

The pursuit of exclusivity


The scarcity and exclusivity associated with luxury products contribute to their allure. Limited editions, rare materials, and meticulously crafted designs create a sense of exclusivity that appeals to consumers’ desire for uniqueness. The psychological impact is profound, as individuals feel a deep feeling of importance and distinction when they possess something that not everyone can have.

Self-expression and identity


Luxury brands often serve as a canvas for self-expression. In fact, the choices individuals make when selecting luxury items reflect their personalities, tastes, and aspirations. Through these purchases, consumers shape their identity and convey aspects of their character to the outside world.

Emotional fulfilment


The act of acquiring a luxury item is often accompanied by a surge of positive emotions. From the anticipation of making the purchase to the euphoria of possession, luxury consumption triggers feelings of happiness and satisfaction. Also, a sense of accomplishment. These emotional responses create a strong association between luxury brands and positive experiences, fostering a continuous cycle of desire and consumption.

In conclusion, luxury brands weave a complex orchestra of emotions, desires, and societal expectations, influencing consumer behaviour profoundly. The psychological effects range from the satisfaction of status symbols to the fulfilment of emotional needs and the expression of individual identity.

On the flip side, the psychological effects of luxury consumption spiral into a dangerous cycle of excess. The insatiable desire for status, exclusivity, and emotional gratification may propel individuals to continually seek the next opulent acquisition. This relentless pursuit fuels a voracious appetite for the latest trends releases. But also plunges society into the treacherous depths of overconsumption.

Ultimately, the pressure to maintain or increase one’s perceived status drives a culture on the verge of excess, promoting unsustainable consumption patterns that jeopardise responsible consumerism.


✍️ Credit: Post written by Gabriela Preuhs, a Brazilian scholar pursuing studies in economics and psychology at Cattolica University in Milan; currently interning with suite123.

The Luxury Brands Read More »

Behind the Seams: Fashion Industry & Forced Labour

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Understanding the joint roles of brands and consumers


Let’s delve “behind the seams” to unveil the link between the fashion industry and forced labour. The connection is robust, a topic often discussed yet incredibly overlooked by consumers despite the information.

In a recent post, we exposed the symbiotic relationship between luxury brands and fast fashion, both operating within the capitalistic framework. Today, we peel back another layer, examining recent cases.

Behind the seams of luxury brands


First, we happened to read a BOF post: “Luxury brands lag on efforts to reduce forced labour.” Reduce? But isn’t it appalling that brands discuss reducing forced labour instead of eliminating forced labour? By the way, the graphic in the attachment gathered luxury brands and fast fashion brands. All the most popular ones! (see it here).
Second, these days, the news reported the case of Alviero Martini. The company is under investigation for starving wages.

These two elements confirm our thesis: luxury brands and fast fashion share the same pattern, just for different pockets. But, above all, they highlight how deeply this issue is rooted in the fashion system, revealing it as a consolidated practice to maximise profit.

Also, it is interesting to notice that luxury brands often blame fast fashion while hiding their practices that are no different! Luxury brands exploit people’s work precisely as fast fashion does. Whatever the “made in” label says.

According to “Knowthechain” – a non-profit organisation:
“Today, an estimated 24.9 million people around the world are victims of forced labour, generating $150 billion in illegal profits in the private economy.”

Forced labour & modern-day slavery


Forced labour refers to individuals compelled to work against their will, under threat of punishment or coercion. In other words, individuals suffer exploitation as they are deprived of their freedom, coerced into labour without fair remuneration, and subjected to conditions over which they have no control. Forced labour can take various forms, including human trafficking, debt bondage, and other forms of modern slavery, and it is a violation of fundamental human rights as well as international labour standards.

Although condemned and prohibited by national and international laws, the practice is widespread. What’s worse? People, through their purchases, endorse this despicable system.

The fashion industry has no moral fabric, just as individuals who ignore the issue despite the available information.

Are you willing to shut your eyes when buying a logoed bag?
Did you know there’s an alternative? Small, independent brands offer luxury handbags with the finest materials, quality and skilled craftsmanship, all at just 1/3 the price of a branded bag. But while the logoed ones may be easy to sell, only a niche audience can appreciate true quality.

Your decisions as a consumer can shape an industry that values humanity over profit. Don’t compromise ethics over status.

What happens “behind the seams,” the dark connection between the fashion industry and forced labour, is extensively covered in the media. Read, share, and take action. But do not close your eyes. Ignorance is not an option; it’s time to confront the truth.

Behind the Seams: Fashion Industry & Forced Labour Read More »

The Luxury Inconsistency

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 2 minutes

How the fashion system devalues itself


Straight to the point of the luxury inconsistency: top brands stopped representing luxury. When they adopted the overproduction model, triggering a constant need for discounts, they moved in a different direction. And with the rise of ‘affordable luxury’–a meaningless oxymoron–the fashion industry has been doing its best to devalue what little remains of luxury.

Luxury: from exclusivity to mass products


Overproduction and luxury have nothing in common. But the fashion industry promoted this pattern to make more money in the name of growth and greed. Some top brands represented the last stronghold of an industry that was transforming into financial conglomerates. In this new context, fashion shifted from exclusivity to the masses.

In order to appeal to a wider audience, communication had to develop a different narrative, revolving around three points:
1- extremised concepts, just to give something to talk about
2- socialite or fashion bloggers to promote the products
3- frequent markdowns

As a result, the industry lowered its standards focusing on branding rather than providing creativity and excellent quality. The byproduct was a crass logo dependency. However, associating a logo with specific lifestyle imagery is not the same as creating well-made products. Most importantly, exclusivity and discounts are inherently contradictory.

The luxury short-circuit


Sometimes luxury brands, how they still want to call themselves, release the misguided communication, as seen in the case of Balenciaga. Consequently, fashion bloggers end up selling their products at a discount. But can you imagine who paid full price for those items? They must be thrilled to see them undersold!

Rising prices: the latest strategy for luxury


Now brands increase prices due to pandemic-related issues and inflation, but that does not mean better quality. They’re simply covering their costs. If people accept paying more, they get mass-produced items in return, not exclusivity.

What masses believe is luxury, it is not. It’s the product of an industry that has lost its consistency. A fashion industry that, without serious critique and questioning, reveals its short-circuit and inability to change.

In conclusion, communication missteps show the luxury inconsistency to everyone. And you don’t even need to be a fashion insider to understand it!

The Luxury Inconsistency Read More »