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Marine fantasies from two visionary designers

As SS25 Paris Haute Couture Week unfolds, we dive into a realm where fashion transcends reality, offering a glimpse into the fantastical and unattainable. Haute couture is not just about garments—it’s a space for dreams and artistic expression at its peak. By the way, it’s about true luxury for a few.

Whether drawing from mythological fantasies or embodying a designer’s essence, haute couture captivates with its artistry. Among the collections that resonated with us were the mesmerizing creations of Jean Paul Gaultier and Yuima Nakazato—each echoing the enchantment of marine life in their own distinctive ways.

SS25 Haute Couture – Jean Paul Gaultier: nautical fantasies reimagined

We were captivated by Naufrage, the sea-inspired collection by Ludovic de Saint Sernin, this season’s guest designer for Jean Paul Gaultier. From shipwrecked mermaids to daring sailors, pirates and majestic sailing ships, the show was an ode to the nautical themes so deeply embedded in Gaultier’s DNA. Corsetry, second-skin gowns, and audacious tailoring wove a seamless narrative, staying true to the house’s heritage while offering a fresh, contemporary twist.

This was so much Gaultier—bold, imaginative, and beautifully executed. The brand’s iconic codes were reinterpreted with a modern edge, proving that reinvention doesn’t mean losing identity but rather refining it with artistry.

Yuima Nakazato: ethereal nomads in a dreamlike desert

A dim light. A barren desert at the center of the stage. The distant sound of waves. Models moving in slow motion, as if suspended in time. The Japanese Yuima Nakazato transported us to a world where tradition and futurism merged effortlessly. His garments, a fusion of ethnic beauty and modern innovation, carried an almost sacred quality. The craftsmanship was exquisite, with accessories that perfectly complemented the ethereal silhouettes. The overall effect was mesmerizing—like watching a noble tribe with luminous souls making their way through the vastness of a quiet, moonlit night.

Valentino through the eyes of Alessandro Michele—Valentino?

Alessandro Michele’s first haute couture collection for Valentino left us wondering: do we still need designers who are actually capable of doing their job? Apparently, not anymore. 

A black backdrop illuminated by LED lights. Exaggerated silhouettes. Two details we appreciated: the graceful presence of models of all ages, including middle-aged and beyond; and the focus on individual pieces. And yet…

What we saw wasn’t couture but costume. The collection felt like a direct extension of Michele’s Gucci era, repurposing his own aesthetic that, while impactful, didn’t translate into the world of Valentino. The essence of Valentino’s haute couture— gowns for a few lucky ones —was missing as most pieces were unwearable.

We couldn’t help but wonder: why doesn’t he launch his own brand instead? And above all, how is Mr. Valentino doing after seeing this show?

SS25 Haute Couture Week endnotes

In conclusion, as the SS25 Paris Haute Couture Week comes to a close, we are once again caught in the whirlwind of musical chairs—who exits, who enters, and what it all means. The relentless cycle of change seems to overshadow the very notion of timelessness, while the designer’s ego increasingly takes centre stage, shaping the narrative more than the heritage itself.

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