fashion industry

Italian Sweatshop Problem: Is it an Italian Issue Only?

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Challenging the B.O.F. narrative around labour exploitation in fashion


Recently, The Business of Fashion (B.O.F.) raised a critical topic: the so-called “Italian sweatshop” problem within luxury brands. However, their statement suggested that this issue is uniquely Italian, framing it as a problem specific to the country. But is that really the case? Let’s dissect the nuances of this claim.

We’ve previously touched on the death of luxury – most notably in our post “Luxury is Dead”, where we discussed the April 2024 news of Giorgio Armani Operations being placed into receivership after allegations of labour exploitation. Just a few months later, in June, Dior found itself in court administration over similar accusations. These high-profile cases highlight a much broader issue that plagues the fashion industry: labour exploitation.

Fashion industry & the “Italian” sweatshop problem: is that really the case?


This problem is no secret. Exploitation is a widespread practice across the global fashion landscape, yet CEOs and corporate leadership often downplay it, pretending it’s an anomaly rather than a systemic issue. The focus on outsourcing production to far-off locations to maximise profits by replicating the fast-fashion model has been an intentional choice.

Also, a new challenge has emerged: international buyers, drawn to the quality and tradition of Italian craftsmanship, began demanding prices too low for authentic Made in Italy. As a result, to stay competitive, many manufacturers have turned to sweatshop practices to meet buyers’ growing demands.

International buyers (if they care) should ask themselves: is it realistic to purchase a Made in Italy handbag for around €40 wholesale?

So, when B.O.F. discusses the “Italian sweatshop problem,” we must ask: is this truly an Italian problem, or a global fashion issue? Yes, the investigation is Italian, but is Dior an Italian brand? Even if the manufacturer is Italian, where does the directive come from?

Conclusion


The conversation about labour exploitation in the fashion industry needs to break out of nationalistic confines. Most importantly, it needs to acknowledge that this is an industry-wide practice, regardless of the geographical location of the production.

In conclusion, focusing on Italy alone conveniently overlooks the real source of the problem: the profit-driven machinery of the entire fashion system. What’s being framed as an “Italian sweatshop” problem is, in fact, a reflection of how the fashion industry operates globally.

🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

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Fashion Industry: Is it Business as Usual?

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Can the fashion business continue with the same old strategies?


If there were an award for stubbornly clinging to a “business as usual” model, the fashion industry would win without contest. In fact, during a time of deep crisis, there is no sign of change.

We have to admit that working in the fashion industry this month feels stranger than ever for us. Starting a new FW retail season while researching SS25 collections seems particularly surreal. Like living in a fashion bubble disconnected from reality. Indeed, we stay well-informed about current events through our virtual window. Despite the glaring flaws, brands, retailers, and insiders seem trapped in an exploitative and broken system they can neither dismantle nor escape.

Some data points from the fashion system


Just take a look at the fashion magazine headlines or tune into the news – the fashion industry is crumbling:

  • In Turkey, 15,000 textile companies filed for bankruptcy in the first seven months of 2024.
  • By the end of June, 107 shoe manufacturers in Italy had shut down.
  • China’s luxury market is stagnating.
  • At London Fashion Week, amid the market slowdown, designers pressed on. “Keep calm and carry on,” as Business of Fashion put it.
  • Italy’s footwear and leather goods sectors are in decline.
  • Warehouses across the industry are overflowing with unsold goods.

Milano Fashion Week started yesterday, with expectations of economic recovery in the second half of 2025. “The crisis is here, there’s no denying it, but it’s a period of 12-18 months during which the market has slowed down, only to be ready to pick up again afterwards,” says Carlo Capasa. Ok, but how do they actually plan to move forward?

The slowdown, climate emergency & business as usual


The slowdown in the fashion industry is undeniable. Yet, most continue to operate with business as usual. But does it really make sense to approach the fashion business as we always have? What are we trying to achieve by continuing with outdated strategies? Adding more overproduction to an already saturated market, and waiting for the economy to magically recover? Or, are we simply ignoring the problem, living in denial?

This seems to be neither a plan nor a recognition of the urgency of the crisis we’re facing.  Climate change and overproduction in the fashion industry with their devastating effects – exploitation of people and the planet, carbon emissions, and massive waste – are part of the same problem. 

Amid an existential climate and environmental emergency, it’s glaringly obvious that the fashion industry needs a complete systemic change. But how likely is that when all we see is business as usual?

🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears. 

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Repairing Your Clothes: the Future of Fashion

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What happens in a society that makes common sense revolutionary?


In a world where speed defines everything – fast living, fast fashion, and a buy-and-discard mentality – repairing your clothes, taking the time to mend a tear or patch a hole feels almost rebellious. It’s an act of care for your clothes and a gesture of respect toward the environment. But how did we get here? Why does something as simple as repairing clothes, once considered common sense, now feel like a radical act?

Repairing garments isn’t new. It’s been a fundamental part of human life for centuries. Clothing was once valued, made to last, and cared for. People took pride in their ability to prolong the life of what they owned. This wasn’t revolutionary – it was practical. Yet, today, what was once common practice has become radical. What happened?

The shift from repair to replace


The answer lies in the seismic shift from a culture of quality and longevity to one of cheap, disposable goods. Today’s products, especially in fashion, aren’t designed to last. Quality has become a marketing illusion, displayed in glossy advertising but rarely found in the garments themselves. The reality is quite different: overproduction at the expense of labour and the planet, cheap materials, and an endless cycle of overconsumption.

Industries thrive on our desire for instant gratification, conditioning us to constantly seek something new, rather than appreciating what we already own. Garments are produced so cheaply that we’re encouraged to replace them, not repair them. And even if we wanted to, the poor quality of most clothing makes proper repair nearly impossible. This is no accident – it’s the system at work.

The lost art of clothing repair


In this era of fast fashion and superficiality, the knowledge of how to repair clothing has faded. The skills once passeddown through generations, the time it took to mend and care for garments, have largely disappeared. We’ve lost touch with quality, and with it, the appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship.

But there’s power in reclaiming this lost art. Repairing your own clothes – even through creative acts like embroidery or transforming a garment’s shape – can be a deeply empowering experience. It allows you to take control of your wardrobe, customize your pieces, and express your unique style. In a sea of mass-produced sameness, mending becomes an act of individuality.

Why common sense feels revolutionary now


Why does repairing a simple tear feel revolutionary today? It’s because we’ve lost more than just the skill of mending; we’ve lost touch with the values that made such actions second nature. We’ve become disconnected from a meaningful, sustainable way of living, caught in the rush of overconsumption. We’ve lost our sense of balance with nature and with time itself.

But as the climate crisis deepens, more and more people are beginning to reconsider. A shift is happening. Repairing, recycling, and reusing – what once seemed outdated – are becoming vital again. Common sense is making a comeback, not because it’s trendy, but because it’s necessary. And in a world built on the logic of waste, common sense has become revolutionary.

Choosing quality, choosing repair


The truth is, you can’t repair what was made to be discarded. Fast fashion’s low-quality garments aren’t worth the effort. Choosing to repair your clothes means first choosing to invest in quality, in pieces that are worth mending. It means supporting brands that prioritize craftsmanship and durability over fleeting trends.

In the end, repairing your clothes isn’t just about sustainability – it’s about taking back control of a system that profits from our waste. It’s about returning to common sense, even if that feels revolutionary in today’s world.

🖤 Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out. You can comment here below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears.
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What Do You Expect from Fashion?

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Unpacking your style needs in today’s ever-changing world


What do you expect from fashion? This is the question we’re posing to you. Really, you! Usually, our approach focuses on niche fashion research, drawing from our industry experience as we search for international, independent designers and hand-pick meaningful garments. In fact, our explorations often touch on the intersections of fashion, culture, and lifestyle, especially in the face of climate change. That is a topic that sets priorities we cannot ignore, prompting a deep-re-evalutaion. But today, it’s all about you.

So, in this fast-changing world, what do you want from the fashion industry? What resonates with you? What do you appreciate, and what do you reject? Are you still brand-oriented, or is your view expanding?

What role does a thoughtful approach play in your choices? Are ethical production practices important to you, or is price still the deciding factor? Has the climate emergency had any impact on your life and your style?

And what about your personal needs? Do you favour fast fashion for its low prices and constant updates? Or are you shifting toward fewer, high-quality garments that stand the test of time?

Ultimately, what do you expect from the fashion industry? And how do you feel about it? As you look at your wardrobe, do you feel connected to the pieces you own, or do you see them as temporary, seasonal trends to be replaced in the near future? How has your relationship with fashion evolved over time?

🖤 This is an invitation for you. Dive into our latest post, and don’t hesitate to reach out: comment below (just register first), or drop us an email or WhatsApp. We’d love to hear from you! Whether you have questions, feedback, or just want to say hello, we’re all ears.
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Earth Overshoot Day 2024 & Fashion

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Considerations for shopping, overconsumption and the imminent buying season


August 1st marked Earth Overshoot Day 2024, meaning that in just seven months, we have consumed all the resources the planet can regenerate in a year. What does this mean for the fashion industry and our lifestyle?

The fashion industry is characterised by overproduction and excessive shopping. While brands aggressively promote overconsumption, consumers are often caught up in the desire to buy more, driven by frivolous thoughts. Only a few people consider deeper, more sustainable practices. As we enter the eighth month of the year, we have already used up the natural resources the Earth can regenerate annually. This means that from now until December 31st, we will be depleting resources that the Earth cannot naturally replenish.

Overshoot Day: Understanding calculation and global impact


Overshoot Day is calculated by determining the number of days Earth’s resources can sustain humanity’s ecological footprint. In simpler terms, we take the planet’s biocapacity – the amount of ecological resources the Earth can generate in a year – and divide it by our annual ecological footprint – the amount of natural resources humans consume in a year. This result is then multiplied by the 365 days of the year.

The ecological footprint varies by country because each nation has different amounts of resources and uses them in various ways, such as land for agriculture, water reserves, electricity, and marine areas. Therefore, each country has its own Overshoot Day.

This year, the first country to exceed its ecological capacity was Qatar (February 11), followed by Luxembourg, the United Arab Emirates, and the United States. Italy wasn’t far behind, reaching its Overshoot Day on May 19. The last countries to exceed their ecological capacity this year will be Indonesia and Ecuador on November 24, 2024.

Conclusion: Earth Overshoot Day & Fashion


Given that in just seven months we have already consumed the natural resources the Earth can generate in a year, it begs the question: are sustainable brands planning to stop their production? On what basis can we begin the buying season for fashion stores? And how can people continue to consume, travel, and live excessively while ignoring this fundamental fact?

What the heck are we doing? Perhaps, a true understanding of it should make us stop everything and pause. It should compel us to reconsider not only the fashion industry but our lifestyle as a whole.

But you can sleep well; no one will move a finger.

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