beautystandards

Vogue Philippines: the beauty of humanity

A brave cover story of representation fighting the myth of youth

With its April 2023 issue, Vogue Philippines celebrates the beauty of humanity. Lately, fashion doesn’t provide such a momentum of passionate engagement and genuine enthusiasm. But finally, we can say: this is a cover story!

Indeed, this cover goes beyond fashion. Not only is it a story of representation, but also it is a powerful challenge to modern beauty standards and the cult of youth.

A centenarian is the cover story of Vogue Philippines!

Vogue Philippines’ April issue made history by featuring the oldest person ever on a cover. The woman, Apo Whang-Od – also known as Maria Oggay, is a 106-year-old tattoo artist from the Philippines. Specifically, she comes from the village of Buscalan – from the Kalinga tribe. And she is considered the oldest mambabatok. Batok is the traditional indigenous tattooing whose symbols signify strength, bravery and beauty. (Read her story here!)

Vogue Philippines: the beauty of humanity
Credit: Vogue Philippines

“We believe that the concept of beauty needs to evolve, and include diverse and inclusive faces and forms. What we hope to speak about is the beauty of humanity” said Bea Valdes – Vogue Philippines editor-in-chief.

In our modern society, people are subjugated by the myth of youth, so ageing is considered a curse, something to fight as much as possible. In fact, most people invest in plastic surgery or less invasive techniques to keep their “forever young” illusion alive. But the results are quite sad.

However, this issue doesn’t relate to the fashion and beauty industries only. It’s a matter of culture. Because of patriarchy, men are allowed to age while women are not. Though men, too, enjoy plastic surgery a lot, there is a different posture towards men’s and women’s ageing. With age, men become interesting while women just get old.
Moreover, women struggle to fit into beauty standards because that’s what men expect from them: plastic dolls in tight-fitting clothes. Indeed, women accept the idea of how a woman should look based on a male perspective. And they do not even question it! Therefore, they are easy to manipulate.

The beauty of humanity: more than a cover of a fashion magazine

So this is more than a cover of a fashion magazine. This is a change maker. Because it is a story of representation as Whang-Od is one of the last practitioners of Batok tattooing. But also, it is an ode to ageism.
This woman is powerfully elegant. She is strong and soulful, proud and delicate. She is a pierce-through beauty!

And that is what we need to challenge modern beauty standards and embrace our life in all its stages.

Modern beauty standards: between patriarchy and market demands

Do you know what beauty is?

Apart from the male perspective, which has always ruled women’s life, there’s more to explore about modern beauty standards.

Even bearing in mind the subjectivity of the matter, aesthetic judgement isn’t about beauty itself anymore, as an archetype or related to physical traits.

Modern beauty: what influences our judgement?

Analysing beauty standards, we have to consider two main factors:

First, beauty is the embodiment of a male perspective. Therefore, it’s a matter of power. The male eye works like a filter, shaping and dictating women’s choices. This judgemental screen took over women’s viewpoint, almost as a natural feature which limits independent activity. So that women themselves play the man’s games.

Second, contemporary beauty is a market issue. The commercial factor is crucial in understanding modern beauty standards: the product of brainwashing through advertising, movies, tv programs, social media etc.

modern beauty

“Self-esteem is the reputation we acquire with ourselves.”
Nathaniel Branden

Modern beauty stereotype

From thin to curvy, plastic dolls are the stereotype. But all shapes have the same cookie-cutter features: doughnut lips, cheekbones like protruding mountains, and eyebrows like they got scared. Sadly, that botox expression will never disappear from their face.

The emulation process triggered in young girls’ minds and adult women, whose self-esteem is not solid, is appalling. Furthermore, self-esteem is a work-in-progress because reaching self-awareness is a growth process. And you don’t just snap your fingers to gain it.

However, this emulation is the result of the brainwashing system, a form of persuasion that makes women look all the same, like fake plastic dolls.
Is that beauty? No, it’s business. Indeed, it’s a very profitable business.

And so, beauty standards have to do with male power and market demands more than any archetypal or old-fashioned rule.

In prehistory, the traits connected to fecundity were considered beautiful. Specifically, the Palaeolithic Venus was more generous and curvy. The Greek Venus had a more slender figure. Therefore, the beauty archetype was associated with given characteristics.

What about the modern beauty myth?
Modern beauty is not only about power but also a market issue.

And so, forget who you are. Go and buy your new equipment.
In the end, beauty is just a product.

Beauty, business & role models

It is interesting to analyze beauty, business and how they forge modern mainstream role models. So they say.

Business and beauty standards are intertwined. Indeed, it takes deep reflection in order to have a better understanding of this connection and the role models it produces.

Recently ‘The Wall Street Journal Magazine’ praised Kim Kardashian as a beauty and business role model. Maybe indirectly as a beauty icon, but that was the message they sent.

Though it caught our attention, it wasn’t without a certain bitterness.

Of course, it’s good to read different perspectives. But is it for real? Not a joke?

Modern role models or business?

Well, we want to assume that maybe some paid advertising is the motivation for those compliments. Otherwise, we do not see any other reason for choosing a figure like that as a role model, a powerful example of a businesswoman.

We don’t want to talk about why or how she became famous. That universe is not part of our vision, and we prefer to direct our energy towards something more interesting.
However, what we find disturbing is that she, and the whole family, have lost any trace of human identity because of plastic surgery abuse.

We wonder, is that a role model we should admire? Should we want to be like them?

But let’s imagine the younger generations, what we are telling them. ‘Hey, if you want to be accepted, have a good career, and become popular that’s the way to do it!’

Most importantly, it is depressing that magazines cannot find any better role models for women.

It’s not clear if healthy role models are lacking or if, intentionally, the model we want to push forward is that one.

No, we don’t believe positive role models are lacking. Many in the media don’t want to see them. For sure, it’s more convenient to stick to the plastic doll.

Cannes and the new beauty statement

The latest edition of the Cannes Film Festival was a remarkable beauty statement. A real surprise! Indeed, it could not go unnoticed. And not for the red carpet outfits, but because this edition marked a turning point in beauty standards. A celebration of ageless beauty.

Most of the time, red carpet outfits have no sense of style or coolness. They send one clear message only: “Please, please, please! Notice me!”

Unexpectedly, and with a high dose of bravery, this time several actresses surprised us with their wrinkles or undyed hair. They chose to be who they really are, tired of compromising. They were fierce, beautiful and effortless.
What a pleasant surprise!

In one of our previous posts, we expressed the need for human faces. In an era dominated by plastic surgery, people completely lost their uniqueness, all having the same characteristics.

Et voilà, here it is, the sign of change! And it was so true. So impressive.

Cannes & the beauty statement

Hellen Mirren, a marvellous trailblazer, this time was not alone. Andie McDowell declared that during the pandemic, she decided not to dye her hair anymore. Jodie Foster – awarded an honorary Palme d’Or for lifetime achievements – looked great with her grey strands.

Finally, we saw women feeling comfortable with their age and therefore having no problem showing it.

Free from usual schemes and self-confident concepts of beauty – this is the most important message they sent.
If men are free to age however they want, why shouldn’t we do it?

And so, a positive wave has started. We have done everything to deny ageing, while we have to embrace it and live it at our best.
They showed us that we can be beautiful anyway. Beautifully human.

This time, even more than their gowns, we appreciated their attitude. That was a beauty statement.

We applaud you, great women!

New beauty standards

In our evolving process to become better humans, we are actively searching for a more meaningful lifestyle. Thinking about new beauty standards, expressing elegance in harmony with nature and getting rid of unhealthy beliefs are all things we need to do.

For so long we have been brainwashed to accept plastic dolls with ultra-white teeth as a beauty ideal. Ultra-white teeth do not even exist in nature, not to mention doughnut lips. How could we believe these were human features?
Are we sure that we look younger or beautiful by lifting our face or plumping our lips? And, if we want to eliminate plastic from the world, why do we put it into our bodies?

We are human beings, getting old is part of our nature. We should accept it and live it positively. Real beauty is a direct reflection of self-acceptance, well being, and respect and love for oneself. But, there is a huge difference between taking care of oneself and become the plastic version of a human.
If we look around, we are surrounded by aliens shaped by plastic surgery, and they all look exactly alike. Our faces lost expressiveness.
As a reaction to that, the body-positive movement tells us to accept ourselves as we are, which is obviously the right attitude.

At long last, we acknowledged that beauty is diverse and ageless. Different body shapes, or freckles, diastema and so on aren’t defects but details that make us unique.
The truth is that we’ve had a rather schizophrenic attitude to beauty standards. First, we believed in plastic dolls, the fakeness par-excellence. Then, we pushed self-acceptance to the extreme. Promoting excessively overweight bodies as a wellness model is quite scary.
While accepting oneself is a fundamental block in our growth process, selling unhealthy models as a new positive normal is dangerous.
We tend to go from one extreme to the other instead of finding the balance.

The Romans used to say “in medio stat virtus” – virtue lies in the middle.
It’s time to follow the advice.