Violent responses in modern society

Where do we want to go next?

Violence is served to us continuously. It happens in movies as well as in tv shows. But sadly, it happens in reality too. Even if we focus on our work, the current exceptional facts are inescapable. Anyway, the war is turning the fashion industry upside-down.

Violence is the response we see on a daily basis and to any act. And it is curious to see how people condemn it or accept it depending on the case.

How does a violent response happen?

Someone says something. Someone does not respect an agreement, or someone crushes your foot. The list could be longer because we can find endless occasions that would trigger a mindless reaction. However, by crushing the foot, that someone hits someone else’s nerves. And what does this someone else do? This someone else reacts with violence. A violent reaction can go from slapping someone in the face to invading a country, just to name two possibilities.

Perhaps both examples may sound familiar. Whatever may have caused the violent response – “You assault somebody, you get escorted out the building, and that’s it.” So stated the Oscar co-host, Wanda Sykes, for instance.

Following the same logic: you assault another country, you get invited to stop! Because whatever caused your reaction, borders cannot be violated. Of course, we weigh both sides considering the wider picture, but only one side is the aggressor. Therefore, to remain equidistant means being on the side of those using violence.

Violence is a human tendency, but it’s a brutal response

Violence is a human tendency, but it is a brutal response and must always be condemned. Because when you react violently, you’ve already lost. Even if provoked by someone, it shouldn’t be accepted.

As a matter of fact, we get accustomed to violence more easily than to respect or kindness. It’s time to understand that this attitude is not constructive.

Violence is never the answer. Let’s make it clear. Let’s make them stop.

#STANDWITHUKRAINE

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Tabi (足袋) shoes, cool Japan?

Culture, traditions and fashion

The Tabi in today’s fashion

These days some high brands produce split-toe shoes called Tabi. Originally, Tabi are Japanese traditional socks with a separate section for the big toe and the rest. In Japanese, Tabi is written in “足袋” – literally meaning foot-pouch.

During the fashion week in Milano, I saw many Tabi boots and shoes from different brands. As a Japanese person, it was very interesting to see how Tabi shoes are becoming more and more fashion-iconic items nowadays.

Its simple, yet unique shape, is truly cool. I agree!

The history behind the Tabi

As you might picture, Tabi socks are usually worn with Zouri, footwear for Kimono. That is probably the most common image that people have of this item.

Yet, Tabi is not only for Zouri. It was used traditionally for various Japanese traditional footwear, such as Waraji (草鞋). Waraji is the rice straw rope sandals commonly worn during the Edo period.

In my 5th grade, I spent all my summer knitting 3 pairs of Waraji. My elementary school had a tradition that all the 5th graders hiked for 9 hours on “Kyu-kaido Ishidatami” – the old highway in Hakone, with their knitted Waraji. Of course, Tabi was a must with Waraji.

Tabi
Tabi and waraji hand-knitted sandals
Photo courtesy: Kotono Sakai

A mere traditional style?

It is intriguing that some high brands, such as Margiela, are inspired by the Tabi shape. Yet, Tabi has its own value and history behind it. It is culture, and it is tradition. Tabi is not just a trendy item.

So it would be disappointing if the people would consume Tabi as a mere fashion icon with simple “Japaneseness”.
Imagine if the fast fashion brands would mass-produce Tabi shaped shoes, making them even more accessible to general consumers. The value would no longer matter.

I am very pleased to see that Japanese traditional culture is being internationally appreciated and more recognized throughout different mediums. But if I saw an overuse or overconsumption of Tabi shaped shoes, I would perhaps get mixed feelings.

I encourage you to tell what is mass and what is special!

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A piece written by Kotono Sakai, a Japanese girl studying history and fashion at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

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The Military Bag

Small but practical

Today we introduce The Military Bag in small size by ZUCCa.
It is the little sister of the bigger version we showed you previously in black nylon.

About the design
The design point of this cool military bag is a large three-dimensional pocket with a vertical zip fastening. Also, cotton fabric is sandwiched by nylon fabric and double stitched. And the puckering stitching highlights the military image.
The typical ZUCCa item specification tag is stitched on the outer maxi pocket.

This shoulder bag has a top zip fastening and two top handles in addition to the strap, meaning you can carry it by hand or crossbody. The shoulder strap is adjustable and removable. In addition to the outside pocket, there is one more pocket on the inside.

The Military Bag Small
The Military Bag – small size – by ZUCCa

About the colour
Khaki – a nuance that provides a military image softened by its reduced size. This accessory is easy to match, indeed doesn’t require any particular style advice.

Bag size: W17 cm X H16 cm X D5 cm
Material: 100% nylon

The small military bag

Although it is part of the Spring / Summer 22 ZUCCa collection, this is undoubtedly a seasonless item. Indeed you can use it to complete your style throughout the year.

We suggest using it as an additional day bag where you can put your essentials, wallet, mobile, keys and kleenex. And maybe something else too, because even if it’s small, this crossbody is quite capacious.
The problem with big bags is that you never find what you need, in this way your essentials are easy to find and reach. Indeed, this accessory can be useful even when you travel, so you’ll have your flight documents at your fingertips.

The Military Bag – small size – is practical and stylish. You will never get tired of carrying it with you!

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The upscale drive

Revising the (over)production model

Ending the diffusion lines is one of the strategies implemented by fashion Maisons lately. Why this change of direction? And is it the start of a new business model?

What is a diffusion line?

The diffusion lines, also named second lines, are ready-to-wear collections whose name is similar or somehow recalls the designer’s name. The inspiration and design of these clothing and accessory lines come from the Maison archive. But they get simplified in terms of patterns, working, and materials to offer the spirit of the brand at a lower price. More affordable, or relatively so. However, much lower compared to the main lines.

Indeed main lines dominate the high-end segment of the market, meaning they are expensive. But if they remained in that high-end segment, brands would miss the majority of the market.

So, driven by greed and speed, brands launched diffusion lines as an opportunity to expand the business and maximise profits. Specifically, diffusion lines were conceived and produced for the mass market.

Apart from some trailblazers like Armani, whose Emporio line was born in 1980, many diffusion lines started spreading in the 90s and mushroomed during 2000. For decades brands focused on evergrowing, ever-expanding, overproducing, and heavy discounting policies. So they triggered a vicious cycle that led to an oversaturated market deprived of value.
Now, something is changing. Some fashion Maison backed up, undertaking a new (or not so new) route.

The new strategy: quitting the diffusion lines

Recently, Valentino decided to eliminate the Red Valentino line from 2024 (launched in 2003) to focus more on couture.
Likewise, Chloè is to phase out its See by Chloé line over the next three years, addressed as a – “natural and necessary evolution for the long term.”

So, in the short term, brands have maximised profit through secondary lines. But, in the long run, this strategy has compromised the market and their own image.

Now the market is almost dead, and this forced them to change their path.
If fashion Maisons want to stay relevant in an oversaturated market, they need to do some cleaning. Ending the diffusion lines will allow brands a more focused business model.

Though we do not expect they will stop overproducing, we are curious to see what they will do next!

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“My brain is up here”

The elegance & beauty of the female brain

Dissecting the norm of gender
When I was a little girl, I remember being told quite often that I should be aware of how revealing my wardrobe is. How much makeup I am wearing, or how intense I am behaving. People would say that it is distracting to boys when they are in school.

Sadly, I never heard anyone try to teach a boy not only that they should respect women and look to them for intellectual guidance. Since it’s scientifically proven that the female brain matures faster than the male. But also that they shouldn’t be viewing us as distracting sexual objects.

As a result of this misguided message, women are viewed as a trophy or accessory for a man. Other terms that come to mind are: “bitchy”, “too much”, “bossy”, “confrontational”, or “stubborn”.
Ironically, when men present the same behaviour that usually gives us these titles, they are said to be “determined”, “a leader”, “well-spoken”, or “hard-working”.

Gender discrimination represented


A consistent example of women being negatively targeted in our society is prevalent in our female celebrities. In interviews, they often receive questions about the outfit they are wearing, the fitness regime they follow. What diet they are restricted to for maintaining their figure. Or my favourite, “are you dating anyone new”. They are rarely asked about their career goals and opinions on current social issues.

One of my favourite interviews was with Simone Biles. When the interviewer commented on her lack of smiling during routines, Biles responded: “smiling doesn’t win you gold medals.”
In this interview, Biles was able to break the lens that is typically looked through when reviewing a woman. We are beautiful and elegant. But we are also powerful, determined, disciplined, and honourable.

Female celebrities are constantly bombarded on the red carpet, being asked about their romantic life or if they will be “leaving with lots of men tonight”.
The key focus is always about who they will be the trophy for, not that they are their own trophy.

It’s a man’s world. . . So let’s make it ours too


We live in a world defined and constructed by men, from the language to the ground we walk on. Yet they are utterly confused to find us questioning everything around us. In a global society dominated by men, women are often criticised when doing something that was assumed to only be possible by a man.

Every success or power move beyond a man’s comfort level is questioned, every opinion verbalised in an important room is critiqued. And every social step-forward is categorised as a “female revolution of empowerment”, since any progress from zero is applaudable.

We shouldn’t be settling for minor improvements in our system, and we shouldn’t have to answer to every man who interrogates our purpose in the field he generally occupies. We have normalized our whispers as a way of accommodating men, avoiding the offensive titles they have given us.

Since it’s brutally obvious that men don’t have any agenda to flip the conversation, rather than adapting to our gender-exclusive environment, it’s time we counteract their close-minded reality with the truth of what being a woman truly means.

We live in a world paved for men. Although women have made great leaps in upheaving this pavement, we still have a long way to go.

Don’t forget the beauty, and elegance within your mind that makes you a woman. Most importantly, don’t forget to speak your mind unapologetically. No more whispers.

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A piece written by Gavriel Ewart. An American girl studying fashion and communication at Cattolica university in Milan and interning for suite123

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