Fashion & lifestyle

UN Against Overconsumption

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Fashion marketers as the key to shape a new narrative


The UN states that fashion must to stop promoting overconsumption. Indeed, this aligns perfectly with our approach, since we focused more on this evolved path, about four years ago. However, curating a selection of timeless pieces to wear for a lifetime has always been central to our viewpoint.

Specifically, the UN Environment Programme and UN climate change have just released new recommendations for those who work in fashion marketing and communication.

“We are draining humanity’s lifeblood through vampiric overconsumption and unsustainable use, and evaporating it through global heating,” said U.N. Secretary-General Antonio Guterres. (source)

UN against overconsumption: a systemic issue


According to the UN, mass consumption is a systemic issue. So, they identify marketing as the key to fostering cultural change. That is how: leading consumers to change consumption rates, increasing consumer knowledge and shifting consumer behaviours. The idea is to tackle misinformation and greenwashing through science-based communication and transparency.

Although we agree with the idea of fighting overconsumption and overproduction, we are afraid that many of the words suggested in the playbook are buzzwords hiding greenwashing.
Marketing is an ensemble of activities finalised to sell products or services. So far, fashion marketing has contributed to creating confusion through deliberate operations. It isn’t likely that corporations are ready to leave behind their growth pattern. Ethics over money sounds weird from a capitalistic view.

Fashion industry: overproduction & overconsumption


Overproduction and overconsumption are two faces of the same coin, capitalism. In other words, a vicious and exploitative economic system which triggers toxic behaviours.

Overproduction leads to overconsumption: this point was clear to us. So, as a fashion retailer, about four years ago, we thought it made sense to reduce the quantity of clothing we ordered each season dramatically. That allowed us to avoid overstock and frequent markdowns while promoting a reduction of consumption based on fewer products but good quality. And so, a timeless selection of non-trend-based garments with great design value. Also, getting familiar with the concept of degrowth as an effective strategy to drive change, we trust our choice was valuable.

However, it’s not enough, and we need to do more. But it’s complicated to work since most fashion industry players still promote growth, perhaps hiding it behind traceability of QR Codes. Now they call it green growth. Which, as clearly explained in Kevin Anderson’s video, is meaningless. It leads nowhere.

Furthermore, it’s hard to find solutions when consumers shop from retailers who still work on an overproduction basis. How can these retailers stop promoting overconsumption with shops full to the brim of clothes?

Most importantly, does the UN leave the fight against overconsumption to the good heart of marketers? Of course, fashion marketing is part of the problem. And an ethical approach could work. But expecting redemption without regulations and strict controls in a rotten system seems a bit naive.

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Unisex or Genderless

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How gendered labels influence people’s perception


We can say that a garment is unisex or genderless, but it seems like people cannot really understand the point. Which is a matter of freedom and style. Either they fear something, like they are afraid of judgemental comments. Or maybe they are waiting for validation or approval in order to wear a piece of clothing.

The power of gendered labels


But why gendered labels have this power over people? Can labels define people’s life? So it seems. In fact, independent thought and auto-determination work for a few. Most people need pre-packed boxes to identify and fit in. Therefore, labels satisfy that need of belonging, having the same effect as a cloak you wear to feel protected. Labels, in general, and specifically gendered labels, make people feel safe.

However, this strict separation seems to be less present among young people. Having a different perception of style, they feel more open to playing with clothing.

Unisex or genderless


Unisex or genderless, men’s or women’s – find your own definition if you need it. Find the label you feel comfortable with if you really have to. But be advised that no one is going to ask from what category you picked the garment you are wearing. Perhaps no one cares!

Fashion style #formodernhumans


The point is not the category and not even the size. For instance, take a shirt or a sweater and wear it on. Do you like it? And do you like the fit, how it falls on your body? Also, do you feel comfortable in it? Enough! No one needs any further explanation. And, if anyone asks, you are free to respond as you like.

From whatever category we pick out the clothes to assemble our selections, we refer to most pieces as unisex or genderless. We don’t see categories as a limit, we just take what we like. Because style is not a matter of fitting into a gendered category. It’s only about how clothes look on you. And how you want to wear them.

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Pharre-Well Fashion Designers!

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Paris Men’s Fashion Week: Pharrell Williams debuts for Louis Vuitton


Fashion crowds, say Pharre-Well to fashion designers, and welcome to marketing!
During the Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Pharrell Williams presented his first release for Louis Vuitton. A big marketing show after which every fashion designer can quit their job. The fashion industry doesn’t need you anymore.

Pharre-Well & the rappers show


The runway was all about creating the hype, though some titled he brought a gentle revolution in fashion. Wait, did you see anything new? So revolutionary? Really? It seemed like an ’80s flashback.
In fact, he brought up nothing in terms of design, zero new elements. Specifically, he collected all the rap imagery, threw it in a washing machine, and so he got the mix. The show, as well as the guests’ outfits, was a celebration of black culture and hip-hop, which is now the hook to attract masses of kids who want to look like their favourite idols from the star system. Indeed, that’s what the runway was. A show, a big parade of stars. Not fashion, nor an example of good design. And not even a gentle revolution, please!

Fashion & (unconsistent) representation


Although it is perfectly understandable that centuries of white dominance in every field made many people feel unrepresented, it is unclear why historic fashion maisons believe they should shift to a universe that does not belong to them.
Clearly, one thing is the history, image, and tradition of a maison; another thing is what people, meaning the end customers, want to do with the clothes or accessories they purchase. In other words, the style they create by mixing them.

Fashion marketing vs heritage


But does it make sense to take down Vuitton’s heritage? And is expanding the business a good reason to demolish brands’ heritage? How can loyal clients trust them? Sadly, LVMH’s strategy recalls what Alessandro Michele did with Gucci. When the market got oversaturated with pointless stuff, they realised maybe it was a mistake. Afterwards, brands can attempt to reverse this strategy, but they lose credibility. Besides, it says a lot about what the fashion industry wants: growth! Which now, they like to call green growth. That is what corporations hide behind the facade, preserving their overproduction pattern.

Pharre-Well fashion designers!


However, the point is that being a fashion designer nowadays is really frustrating. In fact, after this LVMH move, we can celebrate the end of the fashion designer. A professional figure that required specific skills and a creative vein now only takes big popularity.

So, Pharre-Well fashion designers out there! Adieu!

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Siamo Foresta: Triennale Milano

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Contemporary art to save the nature – A collaboration with Fondation Cartier Pour L’Art Contemporaine


Yesterday we attended the opening of “Siamo Foresta” exhibition at Triennale Milano in collaboration with Fondation Cartier pour l’art contemporaine. We are forest is the language of contemporary art focused on nature and aiming to save it from human impact.

Beyond anthropocentrism


“Siamo Foresta (we are forest) draws its inspiration from an aesthetic and political vision of the forest as an egalitarian multiverse of living peoples, human and non-human, and as such offers an allegory of a possible world beyond our anthropocentrism. The exhibition stages an unprecedented dialogue between thinkers and defenders of the forest; between indigenous artists – from New Mexico to the Paraguayan Chaco passing through the Amazon – and non-indigenous artists (Brazil, China, Colombia, France).” – source

Siamo Foresta: the artists involved


“Focusing on artists from Latin America, We Are Forest presents, amongst others, the works of Jaider Esbell (Macuxi, Brazil), Cleiber Bane (Huni Kuin, Brazil), Floriberta Femin, Angelica Klassen, Esteban Klassen, Marcos Ortiz (Chaco, Paraguay), Sheroanawe Hakiihiwë, Joseca Mokahesi, and Ehuana Yaira (Yanomami, Venezuela and Brazil), Johanna Calle (Colombia), Alex Cerveny, Bruno Novelli, Santidio Pereira, Solange Pessoa, Adriana Varejao, and Luiz Zerbini (Brazil).” – source

We recommend you visit the exhibition, it’s open until October 29!

Siamo foresta


As we entered the rooms, a quote caught our attention:

“The forest is alive. It can only die if the white people persist in destroying it: if they succeed, the rivers will disappear underground, the soil will crumble, the trees will shrivel up, and the stones will crack in the heat. The dried-up earth will become empty and silent.”

David Kopenawa, The Falling Sky 2010

Siamo Foresta: nature-focused contemporary art


Captured by green in every shade, and two corners of a forest installation with large, lush plants we could walk through. And bright colours. But also some impressive black and white imagery, all with potent imagery and a touching sense of light. Indeed, we were amazed to discover the drawings created by some indigenous self-taught artists using just a ballpoint pen.
A fun detail: a man saw Cri standing next to a painting in her anis slipdress by Marc Le Bihan and said: “Your colours perfectly match this painting. You should be in it! Let me take you a picture!”
Indeed, we all wore colours in line with the exhibition. Perhaps when we made our Spring-Summer 23, the forest mood inspired us!

In the end, another quote made us reflect:

“It began with separating man from nature and establishing him as a sovereign kingdom; it was thus believed to erase the most irrefutable character of him, namely that he is primarily a living being. And, remaining blind to this common property, the field has been given free rein to all abuses.”  

Claude Levi-Strauss – Structural Anthropology 2

This quote from Claude Levi-Strauss – Structural Anthropology 2 – is dated 1973. In 2023, fifty years later, there’s a summit on sustainability every day! Nothing has changed over time. In fact, now climate change is irreversible, but we are just talking.

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Fashion Experts vs Sustainable Brands

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Spring-Summer 24 fashion exhibitions


With Spring-Summer 24 selling season-opening, fashion experts are meeting sustainable brands. And so, we received invitations for panels and fashion events, aiming to facilitate the shift towards eco-conscious products. But the ultimate goal isn’t sustainability. It never is so. 

Unfortunately, brands that have an idea of what sustainability is, aren’t understood by fashion buyers and showrooms. Indeed, both industry players had the same comments, which seems weird and leaves little hope for specific brands to find a market that would sustain their business in an evolved fashion panorama. But fundamentally, these comments say a lot about what sustainability represents in the fashion industry.

Fashion experts’ remarks on sustainable brands


We’ll guide you through some opinions we heard about these new brands:
1- Is this clothing collection sustainable?
2- This collection is too small. Why just a few pieces?
3- It’s expensive! Prices are too high. We want the same clothes at a much lower price.

Now the responses we would love to give, point after point and face to face, to the fashion experts:
To the very first question everyone asks when approaching a booth: is it sustainable? 
What do you mean? Can’t you understand it from the size of the collection, style choice, quality and materials? Do you need a tag stating if a garment is eco-conscious? 

The second one: your collection is too small! 
Guess what! Capsule collections should be the way out from decades of racks packed with new items. The way out from overproduction. Isn’t a capsule collection more sustainable? It seems showrooms and buyers still need endless items, fabrics and colour options, which is the opposite of sustainable fashion.

Then comes the third request, which makes you understand these experts have no idea what they say: it’s expensive! We want this dress, but cheaper. Well, sustainable materials are expensive, and if the designer were to create that specific dress in a much cheaper material, it wouldn’t make sense.

And so, the last request takes us back to the first: is it sustainable? 
Why do you ask? What do you expect from sustainable brands if you ask for much cheaper materials?

Is sustainability the goal?


Dear fashion experts, buyers and showrooms, are you sure you want sustainable fashion brands? Do you know what sustainable means? It seems your ideas are confused, indeed. And perhaps those panel discussions have a different goal. 

In fact, it sounds like your interest in sustainability stops at justifying your presence in the market.

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