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Horror and beauty

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On dignity, clothing, and what we owe each other


Horror and beauty. 

Every time we sit down to talk about clothes, we look at the news — people being bombed, displaced, losing their lives—and think: does any of this really matter?

This is where we’re coming from. That feeling of futility, of powerlessness — wondering how fashion can matter when set against a backdrop of human suffering. 

We mistrust easy answers. The world feels too fractured, too painful, to allow for certainty.

Is it irresponsible to talk about fashion right now?

Clothes document the human condition.


What people wear when everything falls apart is a story — one that speaks of dignity, resistance, and survival. Still, we recognise that we speak from a place of privilege. We can choose what to wear. For many, that choice no longer exists.

Throughout history, clothing has never been only about choice. It has been a form of resistance, a way to preserve identity, a silent protest. In moments of displacement, a garment can become the last piece of home a person carries.

Think of the garments of the displaced. What does a refugee wear? Clothes become tools: extra layers against the cold, hidden pockets for money, protection from the elements. What remains on the body is reduced, essential. And still, within that, there are gestures of agency.

A woman in Gaza evacuates wearing her neighbour’s borrowed sandals—her own destroyed in the chaos. She didn’t choose them; they were simply what was available. Weeks later, in a tent, she washes her only remaining dress by hand and hangs it to dry on a wire. This act is not about fashion. It is about dignity. In caring for that dress, she affirms, I am still here.

We still dress. In cities under siege or after natural disasters, people wash a shirt, mend a seam, fix a shoe. Not out of vanity, but to hold on to something human.

If clothing can be a tool of dignity, it can also be part of systems that strip it away. Not only in war zones, but in the everyday violence of how fashion is made. The way we produce and consume fashion is not neutral. It is tied to labour, to resources, to lives. Choosing differently, when we can, is one small way of refusing that indifference.

So is it irresponsible to discuss fashion right now?


It could be. We’re not sure. And maybe that uncertainty is the only honest place to start.
What we do know now is that it becomes meaningful if we use it as a door to talk about crimes against humanity and the planet—including who is bombing and what we can do. That includes naming power directly. 

We’ve opened that door. 

Writing, or doing our job in fashion, does not mean turning away from suffering. It means staying with the discomfort. And recognising that even in the darkest moments, people hold on to small, fragile expressions of self.

Without excess, we hold space for horror and for beauty. Not because we have an answer, but because letting go of either would mean losing what makes us who we are. Perfectly aware that for many, that horror doesn’t stop. So we use our platform to amplify these voices, to speak against Netanyahu’s government and the Trump regime devastating humanity.

As historian Timothy Snyder wrote on his Substack, Thinking About:

“If we do not say something ourselves about this horror, we allow ourselves to be changed.”

We don’t speak for the woman in Gaza. We cannot know what her dress means to her. What we can do is listen — and, where we can, act. And say clearly whose side we are on, because we do not want to normalise this.

Horror and beauty. We hold both.

What will you do with what you’ve just read?

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The normalisation of greenwashing

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As sustainability fades from fashion’s agenda, misleading claims fill the void


The normalisation of greenwashing is becoming increasingly visible across fashion — not as a failure of the system, but as a feature of it.

While sustainability appears to be fading from fashion agendas, greenwashing is becoming acceptable.

We came across a Business of Fashion Instagram post that stopped us in our tracks:

“H&M says sustainability is good for business. Can it get shoppers to care?”

The accompanying feature—a sit-down with H&M Group Chief Executive Daniel Ervér and Chief Sustainability Officer Leyla Ertur—explores why the fast fashion giant is “sticking to its long-set sustainability plans” and working on “connecting with customers.”

This piece of news is depressing. Not surprising, perhaps. But depressing.

H&M’s business model is built on overproduction, rapid deliveries, and overconsumption. These are not conditions that can be retrofitted with sustainability plans. Yet there — in the pages of one of fashion’s most respected industry publications — the premise is presented as earnest: Can a fast fashion giant make sustainability matter to shoppers?

Then comes this quote:

“The reality is, it’s hard. To help customers change their behaviour, we have to create real value for them. Otherwise, why should they change?”

Let’s sit with that for a moment.

Shifting the responsibility: the normalisation of greenwashing


In a single statement, H&M absolves itself of responsibility and shifts the burden onto consumers. Not a word about the structural realities of overproduction. Not a question about whether a business model built on volume can ever align with sustainability. Instead: If customers don’t change, that’s on them.

This is the manoeuvre we’ve seen before. Exploit people and the planet through a system engineered to encourage overconsumption, then frame the lack of consumer “will” as the obstacle to progress.

Which raises a more uncomfortable question: Why is The Business of Fashion—a publication that positions itself as the authoritative voice of the industry—willing to take part in this game?

We have our suspicions. Whether or not this was sponsored content, the real question is: what does it say about the state of fashion media when a fast fashion giant’s sustainability messaging is platformed without scrutiny?

Ultimately, the question remains: can a fast fashion brand ever be truly sustainable?

As we explored in our previous post, the answer here is the same. This is greenwashing. 
Not because H&M lacks sustainability initiatives, but because sustainability cannot be grafted onto a business model fundamentally at odds with it. 

Promoting oneself as sustainable while maintaining that model is not progress—it’s a manipulation of eco-discourse. With the approval of the press.

A final reflection


So here we are, facing the normalisation of greenwashing. Sustainability quietly fades from the scene. Greenwashing becomes acceptable. Safe. Sound. Normal. And perhaps not just acceptable, but the dominant language through which fashion now speaks about responsibility.

P.S.: We wrote an eBook to help you cut through the noise. If you want to understand whether a brand is genuinely sustainable or simply dressing itself in green, it’s here:

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Front row identity: when celebrities become the product

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Where does a brand’s value come from: designers, garments, or celebrities?


The front row used to be the place to witness fashion. Now, it is the fashion.

When a celebrity generates more headlines than the collection they are seated in front of, the question becomes inevitable: who is really selling—and who is being sold?

Before the shows even begin, cameras, more than angled at garments, focus on faces. The new collection about to be presented becomes almost a backdrop. The identities in the front row take centre stage.

Clearly, this is intentional. However, it increasingly resembles a carnival, where everything centres on marketing and advertising. And the risk of over-saturation is real.

Lately, in the aftermath of Ferragni’s “pandoro gate”, a de-influencing trend has surfaced — though it has quickly migrated from influencers to celebrities.

Nevertheless, a certain exhaustion is growing with celebrity marketing. 

The attention economy


The front row is no longer about proximity to design, but proximity to visibility.

Social media has rewired fashion’s priorities. A single Instagram story can generate more reach than an entire runway show. As a result, brands now curate their front rows as carefully as they design their collections or cast their campaigns.

Visibility has become the value. 

Celebrity marketing is increasingly seen as a key driver of luxury fatigue — and more broadly, of consumer exhaustion with advertising. The relentless flood of celebrity endorsements, coupled with rising prices and, at times, declining quality, has led many consumers to feel alienated and sceptical towards luxury brands.

And in this system, celebrities are not just guests — they are amplifiers. They validate, extend, and monetise a brand’s presence in real time. The front row generates headlines before the first look even appears. See the strategic placement of K-pop stars and the relentless pursuit of younger audiences. 

So the question emerges naturally: are clothes still the centre of fashion? 

Where identity resides


If identity was the underlying theme of the latest Fashion Weeks, then the industry faces a more fundamental question: where does that identity truly reside?

In the clothes. Or in the spectacle surrounding them.

If a celebrity wears one brand for a single show and another the next, what does their endorsement actually signify? Is a garment valued for its design, or for who was seen wearing it?

And ultimately: whose identity are we really buying into?

Front row: authorship vs amplification


Fashion has traditionally been rooted in authorship — the designer’s vision expressed through garments.

But today, that authorship is increasingly filtered through amplification. Who defines value now: the designer and the work itself, or the celebrity whose visibility transforms that work into relevance?

Because — most importantly — the same celebrity who legitimises one brand in the morning may endorse another in the afternoon. These associations are not rooted in continuity, in genuine support, but in circulation. They are transactional, immediate, and temporary.

In short, we have shifted from an era of authorship to an era of amplification.

Final thoughts


Ultimately, a counter-movement is quietly asserting itself. Some designers, particularly those outside the celebrity-driven machinery, deliberately eschew the carnival of front-row dressing and photo opportunities. For many independent designers, this is not merely a philosophical stance but a practical reality: lacking the massive marketing budgets required for celebrity booking and styling, they must rely instead on the quality of their work and the support of local press. 

In doing so, they inadvertently pose a pointed question to the industry: isn’t good design and quality the true point of a collection? And in fact, isn’t that what designers need to show?

Amid all the frenzy over front-row attendance and the relentless pursuit of visibility, the game has grown cloying. There exists, however, a different perspective: one uninterested in celebrities, indifferent to who wears what, and intent on returning to something closer to old-school fashion.

What remains, in the end, is a simple desire: to see beautiful clothes—
in a fashion show where the intensity returns to the clothes themselves.

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Galliano for Zara: this isn’t a victory — it’s a verdict

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A couturier, a fast-fashion giant, and an archive that doesn’t exist


Galliano for Zara. The news landed like a thunderclap in the fashion world: John Galliano, one of the last true couturiers on the scene, has signed a two-year contract with Zara. He will not simply design a collection; he will, in their words, “re-author” the brand’s archive.

On the surface, industry press has framed this as a moment of “fashion democracy”— a thrilling opportunity for the masses to own a fragment of a genius’s vision. But peel back the layers of the press release and something far more unsettling emerges. This is not a celebration of accessibility; it is one of the clearest absurdities of the modern fashion system. A signal of its complete destabilisation.

As we explored in a previous post, the idea of democratic luxury is as contradictory as illiberal democracy: it does not exist. It is either one thing or the other.

What makes this partnership truly fascinating is its jarring incongruity. We are watching John Galliano — a master of bias-cutting and elaborate construction — arrive at Zara’s doorstep. Meanwhile, across the industry, designers who built their reputations on more commercial ready-to-wear lines are now producing couture for heritage houses.

Today, the fashion industry doesn’t care about craft; it only cares about marketing.

Galliano for Zara: the “re-authoring” of nothing


Zara and Galliano describe this project as “re-authoring.” The word is carefully chosen. It sounds intimate, artistic, even sustainable. Galliano has spoken of working physically with garments from past seasons — deconstructing, reconfiguring, transforming. It evokes the atelier: scissors gliding through fabric, a master giving new life to forgotten pieces.

But does Zara really have an archive?

In fashion, the term archive is sacred. It implies a body of original work — pieces that defined eras, garments with a soul and a story, grounded in authorship, memory, and meaning. It suggests a point of view.

So we must ask: what, precisely, is the Zara archive?

Is it a catalogue of items subtly (and not so subtly) lifted from luxury runways as soon as they appear? A repository of trend-driven ephemera designed for a three-week lifecycle at best? Or is it the afterlife of these garments — the toxic mountains of textile waste piling up in Accra, the bleached remnants in the Atacama Desert?

Is the archive, in fact, the sum of garments made in the lowest quality polyester, worn twice, and discarded without ceremony?

To call this churn an archive is not just a marketing stretch. It is an erosion of meaning. An insult to the very concept of design history.

The pile-up we aren’t meant to see


When the strategists behind this campaign at Inditex approved it, did they assume we would ignore the elephant in the room — or rather, the mountains of textile waste?

The dissonance is staggering. Inditex remains one of the highest-emitting fashion companies in the world. Its business model is built on overproduction and planned obsolescence. And now, it seeks to cloak itself in the language of sustainability and high art, inviting a legend to “re-author” the very waste stream it has created.

From a sustainability perspective, “re-authoring” fashion waste only makes sense if the production of new items is significantly reduced. Otherwise, it is simply greenwashing.

This raises an uncomfortable question — not just about them, but about us, consumers.

When we applaud moves like this, when we rush to buy a “re-authored” piece of fast fashion, what exactly are we celebrating? Craft — or the permission to forget?

Brands are betting on our willingness to look away. They are betting that the word archive will blur the reality of the supply chain, and that Galliano’s name will function as a cultural absolution. 

But isn’t this simply a case of: This is greenwashing?

From our eBook, This is Greenwashing:

According to the British NGO Earthsight (2024), the fabric used by international giants H&M and Zara to produce their clothes is dirty cotton. The NGO alleges that the two European brands are complicit in large-scale illegal deforestation activities in Brazil, including land grabbing, human rights abuses, corruption, and violent land conflicts. “Earthsight’s year-long investigation reveals that corporations and consumers in Europe and North America are driving this destruction in a new way. Not by what they eat – but what they wear.” 

Or consider this excerpt:

Fashion Group Inditex (Zara) has partnered with the World Wide Fund for Nature (WWF). Why is a multinational fast fashion corporation partnering with a foundation focused on protecting the animals whose habitats their manufacturing destroys?

On closer inspection, the answer seems less about transformation and more about optics.

And if we widen the lens further, another troubling dimension appears. In October 2022, ahead of the Israeli Knesset elections, Joey Schwebel — who holds the Zara franchise in Israel — hosted a campaign event for Itamar Ben-Gvir. The move sparked calls for a boycott, raising further questions about the political entanglements surrounding the brand.

Final reflections


Ultimately, the news about Galliano for Zara is not really about John Galliano or Zara. It is about an industry that has run out of ideas — and perhaps, out of direction. 

The fact that a designer like Galliano, a true couturier, has landed within a fast-fashion system is not a sign of creative evolution. It is a sign that the structures once capable of supporting such talent have eroded. The houses that should be courting his genius are too risk-averse, too driven by quarterly performance, to embrace a complex, demanding artist. 

So let’s call this what it is.

Not a meeting of minds.
A merger of convenience.

One side acquires cultural legitimacy—a halo of artistry.
The other secures a paycheck.

And still we are left with a question that no press release can convincingly answer: what does “fast fashion archive” really mean?

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Antithesis, Ujoh at FW26 Paris Fashion Week

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The Japanese designer duo created a play on contrasts through unexpected combinations


Antithesis is Ujoh’s starting point for Fall/Winter 26 at Paris Fashion Week. In both Japanese and French, the word does not imply a rupture but rather a questioning. With this idea in mind, Ujoh re-examines its own foundations — its shapes, codes, and certainties — in order to rethink them from within.

Founded by the Japanese designer duo Mitsuru Nishizaki and Aco, the brand has long explored the tension between precision and experimentation. The house’s DNA remains intact, yet it asserts itself with renewed clarity. Silhouettes sharpen while volumes loosen, as if the collection were the result of a deliberate stripping bare. Minimalism acquires an insolent edge, infused with grunge energy and a rock spirit drawn from the 1990s. Between élégance and disorder, a new silhouette begins to emerge.

Antithesis by Ujoh at Paris Fashion Week FW26. A model walks the runway wearing a square pinstriped vest over a black lace blouse and trousers.
Ujoh – Paris Fashion Week FW26.27

Ujoh’s FW26 collection: antithesis


This season, the concept of antithesis takes shape through a deliberate tension between opposing forces— both structural and spiritual. Ujoh’s signature elements, such as precise layering and functional tab-tie details, remain present. But subtly reconfigured, as though charged with a new energy. The collection continues the brand’s long-standing dialogue with tailoring, a discipline rooted in Nishizaki’s early experience as a pattern maker. Structure remains central, yet here it is deliberately destabilised through unexpected layering and fluid volumes.

Volumes become looser, while A-line silhouettes are sharpened by asymmetric, cape-like panels. One particularly inventive gesture appears in the tailoring: Bermuda shorts in striped or solid menswear cloth are pleated along the side seams and layered directly over matching full-length trousers. The result is a hybrid garment — simultaneously tailored and relaxed — that perfectly embodies the collection’s dialogue between structure and ease.

This conceptual rigour drives from in an almost artisanal approach to material. True to its philosophy, the house continues its deep textile research, this season highlighting fabrics produced on a 1960s Schöherr loom in Japan. Operating five times slower than modern machinery, the loom produces textiles with a distinctive tactile surface. A deliberate slowing down that stands in quiet opposition to the logic of speed and overproduction that defines much of the industry today. In one striking example, a diaphanous silver nylon ribbon is woven into black wool, creating a semi-transparent check. Elsewhere, coats and skirts in deep black and aubergine are finished with hand-snipped fringing, introducing a deliberately undone quality.

Rugged elegance & unexpected combinations


The garments that result are studies in rugged elegance. Unexpected fabric combinations abound. Delicate lace juxtaposed with the utilitarian character of an aviator jacket in faux suede and fur. Heavy metal zippers carve graphic lines across coats and tops, functioning not merely as closures but as sculptural elements that shape the silhouette.

Antithesis by Ujoh at Paris Fashion Week FW26.
Ujoh – Paris Fashion Week FW26.27

The palette remains restrained: chocolate, rosewood, fern green, and fig. Punctuated by flashes of optic white and beige borrowed from sharkskin suiting. Recurring check patterns evoke a subtle grunge sensibility. Yet the reference to the 1990s is less about nostalgia than attitude, expressed through layering, texture, and a studied nonchalance rendered with unmistakable Japanese precision.

At the core of the season, a collaboration with the Japanese duo DREAMS COME TRUE extends the collection beyond the runway. Designing stage costumes for their tour, Ujoh translates its tailoring language into performance, with select pieces in the collection emerging as direct continuations of this exchange between clothing and movement.

Final thoughts


The theme of antithesis in FW26 Ujoh’s collection extended even to the show’s format. Rejecting a fixed sequence, the looks appeared in a seemingly personal order, as if drawn from a lived-in wardrobe to be explored rather than a story to be followed. This liberated presentation encouraged the audience to consider each piece individually. An object of desire in its own right. While still belonging to a cohesive, beautifully unresolved whole.

In this sense, antithesis becomes less a stylistic device than a way of thinking. An ongoing negotiation between discipline and disruption, precision and instinct.

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