Explorations

The Rise of the No-Phones Trend

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Has social media democratized fashion? Or our lives?


The no-phones trend is gaining momentum, extending its reach from fashion shows to theaters. Also, it prompts a critical examination of whether social media has truly democratized fashion.

The no-phones trend in fashion


At the recent Paris Fashion Week, The Row took a bold stance by banning phones, aiming to encourage attendees to fully engage with the runway spectacle without the distraction of screens. This move not only allowed spectators to immerse themselves in the live experience but also disrupted the instantaneous sharing of images on social media. Instead, attendees could reflect on and digest the show before sharing their experiences.

Critics argue that such restrictions, stating that social media has democratised fashion. But does merely observing luxury clothing on screens equate to affording luxury those items? So, can we define “democratic” a product we can only see but cannot afford to purchase?

The no-phones trend in theaters


Yesterday, we attended “Jesus Christ Superstar” -a glorious show at the “Teatro Sistina Chapiteau.” It reinforced the growing prevalence of the no-phones trend beyond fashion events. The announcer urged the audience to power down their devices and refrain from taking photos to fully appreciate the performance. Only during the grand finale, featuring the iconic Ted Neely, were attendees permitted to capture the moment on their phones. The show, commemorating the 50th anniversary of the film and the 30th anniversary of the production by Massimo Romeo Piparo, showcased remarkable talent and creativity, demonstrating the effectiveness of the no-phones policy.

Prof. Paolo Ercolani quotes Guy Debord: “The society of spectacle”


However, Professor Paolo Ercolani referenced a quote from Guy Debord’s “The Society of the Spectacle,” highlighting the danger of life becoming a mere accumulation of spectacles detached from genuine experiences.

“In societies where modern conditions of production prevail, life is presented as an immense accumulation of spectacles. Everything that was directly lived has receded into a representation.”

Furthermore: “The images detached from every aspect of life merge into a common stream in which the unity of that life can no longer be recovered. Fragmented views of reality regroup themselves into a new unity as a separate pseudo-world that can only be looked at. The specialisation of images of the world has culminated in a world of autonomised images where even the deceivers are deceived. The spectacle is a concrete inversion of life, an autonomous movement ofthe non living.”

Social media: democratizing fashion or dictating our lives?


Indeed, this raises the question of whether social media’s proliferation of images has truly democratised fashion or merely inundated us with unattainable ideals. Has social media democratised fashion? Or our lives?

In conclusion, the no-phones trend signifies a desire for genuine engagement and connection. But it also prompts reflection on the impact of social media on our perception of fashion and life itself.

The Rise of the No-Phones Trend Read More »

Hints of Sustainability at PFW

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Are these sustainability efforts credible?


On the last days of Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 24-25, hints of sustainability emerged. Yet, amidst these hopeful murmurs, recent revelations cast a shadow of doubt over the industry’s commitment to genuine change.

Stella McCartney’s fashion show opened with a call to action to save the planet. In the video, Mother Nature sends a message to humanity: “It’s About Fucking Time.” Perhaps gentle words are no longer sufficient to spur the necessary transformation. Indeed, the stark reality of increased pollution rates this year tempers our optimism.

Apparently, Stella McCartney, an environmental activist, operates through sustainable practices. In fact, the media present her as one of the brands more involved in the discussion around sustainability.

However, reports from Business of Fashion unveil staggering figures of unsold inventory weighing heavily on these conglomerates. We quote B.O.F.: “LVMH and Kering are grappling with billions of dollars of unsold inventory.”

Analysing sustainability hints and related news


Now, let’s compare the two pieces of news in an attempt to understand more about sustainability. In this juxtaposition, a disconcerting dissonance emerges.

LVMH and Kering are the largest conglomerates in the fashion industry. LVMH owns Louis Vuitton, Givenchy, Dior, Fendi, Celine, Kenzo and many more. Kering owns Gucci, Balenciaga, Bottega Veneta, McQueen, Saint Laurent, and more.
Despite both groups having billions of dollars of unsold inventory, they have made countless new samples for the fashion weeks. No one tried to create beautiful presentations with fewer garments. Moreover, they are ready to churn out tons of new clothes and accessories for the Fall/Winter 24-25 season.

In 2019, Stella McCartney signed a deal with LVMH group to accelerate its worldwide development in terms of business and strategy. Before, the designer partnered with the rival conglomerate Kering. So, McCartney stands at the intersection of conflicting narratives.

Can a designer embedded within a behemoth corporation, driven by perpetual growth and overproduction, truly champion sustainability? Stella McCartney’s game recalls the manoeuvres politicians play. Perhaps sustainability in fashion remains a game of optics, a veneer to placate conscientious consumers.

Conclusion: unanswered questions


The hints of sustainability that emerged at Paris Fashion Week appear diluted, if not altogether illusory. The sobering reality of overproduction and the unsolved dilemma of excess inventory force us to confront uncomfortable truths about the industry’s commitment to change.

In conclusion, lingering questions remain with us: What fate awaits the mountains of unsold garments? Will they be incinerated, shipped off to distant shores, or left to languish in forgotten warehouses? And can we truly place our trust in designers who navigate the corridors of power within colossal conglomerates?

The answers to these questions may hold the key to unlocking a more sustainable future for fashion. One grounded not in superficial gestures but in substantive action and genuine accountability.

Hints of Sustainability at PFW Read More »

Paris Fashion Week FW24-25

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Between creativity and unsold stock challenges


The journey that began in Milan found its continuation during Paris Fashion Week FW24-25, where brands grappled with the delicate balance between staying true to their essence and adapting to market demands. While some redefined their identities, others sadly destroyed them (for instance, Ann Demeulemeester and McQueen who followed Balenciaga’s horrors).

Throughout the week, designers started from ordinary clothes, reimagining basic shapes into elevated pieces. The point is that currently elaborated garments are more difficult to sell. Therefore, brands created pieces that are not only visually captivating but also commercially viable.

A few highlights from the Paris Fashion Week FW24-25


Let’s delve into a few highlights from the Paris Fashion Week FW 24-25:

Finally, Chloé made a triumphant return to its roots, presenting a collection reminiscent of its signature style, featuring fluid chiffon gowns and blouses with a strong sense of boho-chic. In fact, the reference to Karl Lagerfeld was evident, just the nameplate belt felt excessive.

Balmain showed sculptured silhouettes juxtaposed with some wearable pieces. Clothes adorned with maxi grape bunches in the shape of jewels or small handbags. However, in this défilé, we particularly appreciated the choice of middle-aged women in natural face glows. Celebrating beauty beyond age, the brand sent a positive message. Also, these women represent the clients who can actually afford luxury clothing. In fact, the designers target young girls, which is somehow disturbing. Of course, except for a few lucky ones, young girls do not have money for luxury stuff.

The fashion industry seems to have shifted its focus from plus-sized models to middle-aged women. While plus-size models almost disappeared, beautiful middle-aged women walked the runways in stunning elegance. Is this a genuine attempt by the fashion industry to change stereotypes or just another fleeting trend?

Undercover stood out for its poetic portrayal of womanhood. With its clothing dedicated to a single mom, it has been the most poetic show. No music, just a quiet voice in the background. The words, written and read by filmmaker Wim Wenders, told the story of a single mom and her personal journey. Beautiful!

We found it interesting the no-social-media policy of The Row. In fact, they banned phones, inviting the audience to take notes on notebooks they provided. This decision brought back a certain magic, keeping people focused on the show and not on their screens. It allowed attendees to immerse themselves in the experience without distractions. It is a matter of taking time to live the event in full presence. To think and digest. And only after, share. That brings back the “thrill and wait” social media have taken down.

Creativity vs unsold stock challenges

On their Instagram account, Paris Fashion Week shared a quote from Tiziana Cardini, a contributor to Vougue.com: “Fashion is a resilient and elastic creature. It adapts and evolves. It will always offer imagination and comfort to even the harshest reality.”

However, amidst the creative fervour and positive strides, the industry faces the harsh reality of unsold inventory, as highlighted by LVMH and Kering’s challenges. This discrepancy raises questions about the sustainability of current practices and the need for innovative solutions to address excess stock.

As the Paris Fashion Week FW24-25 draws to a close, where is the evolution or adaptability? Do you see any of it in the fashion industry?

Paris Fashion Week FW24-25 Read More »

Art259 Design: Cultivating A New Awareness

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Alternative fashion choices #formodernhumans


In our fashion research beyond the mainstream, we find inspiration in the work of Art259 Design by Alberto Affinito.

Let’s say it clearly: in the age of algorithms, fashion is standardised. Completely homologated. Like never before. Indeed, researching a style outside the mainstream can be challenging. The explanation is simple: algorithms dictate trends, and individuality seems lost or struggles to surface.

Specifically, the algorithm privileges what masses like, and all the rest remains hidden. At this moment, in fashion, there’s no freedom of expression; people look all the same. It’s a kind of cookie-cutter social media-imposed style. Everyone buys into it, no one questions it. But what the masses like is not what we like. Above all, we think independently. Therefore, we love selecting uniqueness, meaningful garments that resonate with independent minds. Fashion for free thinkers.

Art259 Design: tactile richness and tailoring


Art259 Design, by Alberto Affinito defies conventional categorization. Born in 2011, this brand has evolved into a fusion of bold avant-garde and profound emotion. Skilled know-how culminating in meticulously crafted garments that transcend gender norms. With a tactile richness in textured fabrics, precise tailoring and fluid silhouettes, each piece is a testament to the brand’s ethos of wearable artistry.

On a personal note, there’s a shared resonance between Alberto and us, since we all come from Basilicata. The most remote, somewhat hidden region of Italy. Like his region, Alberto is sensitive and reserved, almost shy, blending sensitivity with steadfast resolve.

Art259 design
Art259 Design – Made in Italy

Fall/Winter 24-25 collection: “You look well”


Now, let’s delve into the FW24.25 collection: “You look well.” A seemingly innocuous phrase that prompts us to ponder its deeper implications. How often do we utter it without truly meaning it? Alberto challenges us to reconsider the significance of this fleeting compliment, infusing it with newfound awareness and introspection.

The collection itself is a study in redefined proportions and adaptive silhouettes. Linear cuts intersect with organic volumes, while layers of jersey and technowool wrap the body in comfort and warmth. Special mention goes to the metal velvet, a fabric with a tactile irregularity that embraces the wearer like a cocoon.

As proportions are recalibrated, a harmonious space emerges between body and garment, allowing for fluidity and freedom of movement. It’s a testament to Art 259’s commitment to evolving the fashion landscape.

In the FW24.25 collection, Art259 Design invites us to embrace a new consciousness in fashion. It’s an alternative choice for individuals who refuse to conform to the dictates of algorithms.
Ultimately, it’s a journey of self-expression and sartorial innovation #formodernhumans

Soon we will show you our Art259 Design Spring/Summer selection. Stay tuned!

Art259 Design: Cultivating A New Awareness Read More »

Identity and Ethics

/ Leave a Comment
Reading Time: 3 minutes

Peering behind the veil of the fashion industry


When it comes to identity, the spotlight often shifts away from ethics. That seems especially evident during the Milano Fashion Week.

The recent emphasis on rediscovering lost brand identities amid transitions between creative directors is appreciable. Instead of merely chasing trends and pushing boundaries to the point of absurdity, there’s a noticeable return to celebrating heritage and the unique DNA of fashion houses. However, amidst this shift, one can’t help but question the credibility of companies that have previously indulged in such superficial games.

The discrepancy between image and reality at MFW


The day before the conclusion of Milan Fashion Week, a revealing program titled “Indovina chi viene a cena” (Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner) aired on Rai3 (you can watch it here). The journalist Sabrina Giannini and her colleague shed light on the stark reality behind sustainability claims in the fashion industry. It became evident that the more brands flaunt their sustainable slogans, the less sustainable their practices proved to be. Sustainability is 90% greenwashing! This disillusionment extends beyond just material choices and production processes. In fact, it delves into the exploitation of cheap labour through outsourcing. A practice that starkly contrasts with the Italian craftsmanship ethos.

Fashion industry, identity and ethics


While these issues aren’t new to those who follow fashion’s undercurrents, the program highlighted some uncomfortable truths. Particularly striking was the response of the influencers when questioned about their awareness of designers’ materials and sustainable practices. Their dismissive reactions have underscored a glaring disconnection between the industry’s rhetoric and its actual impact. Specifically, these girls giggled or ran away, having no means to participate in a more than necessary discussion. By the way, does the fashion industry need these kinds of people? Really? Is this what the fashion industry is about?

Furthermore, Sabrina Giannini attempted to engage with designers and fashion houses on these pressing matters. What response did they get? Silence and indifference. Despite sustainability being touted as a pivotal theme in fashion, the lack of willingness from brands to engage in open dialogue is concerning. Indeed, it raises questions about the industry’s true commitment to ethical principles beyond mere lip service.

If the aim was to reveal the stark misalignment between the industry’s professed values and its actions, then the brands, with their silence, have succeeded!

Ethics, respect for work, workers’ rights, impact on the planet. All fall under the sustainability hat. But the fashion industry is not interested in that. Dear designers, refusing to open your doors, you have succeeded in unveiling your true faces.

Ultimately, Milano Fashion Week was all about identities. But clearly, no one cares about ethics!

Identity and Ethics Read More »